Hello! My 1990 FJ62 transfer case just started leaking at the spot where my screwdriver is touching. I removed the bolt that holds the grounding wire for better visibility. Not sure if this is an easy repair or major but would appreciate some guidance. How does this piece come out and what is it? It is held in by the bolt with the ground wire as it has a retainer clip that keeps this piece in place. If it comes out without major work (transfer case removal) is there a seal I can buy through Toyota or other source to repair? Also what type transfer case fluid should I buy to refill? Thank you in advance.
FJ62 Transfer case leak
- Thread starter 1990FJ62
- Start date
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there is a small o-ring on the idler shaft. It is difficult to replace, and the transfer case needs to be taken apart.
LC split cases commonly suffer from oil migration issues due to internal oil leaks. so best check the level on the inside of the case to make sure nothing is over filled, and the proper fluid is in there.
Looks insignificant. Monitor the leak and run with it. Looks like a clean unit.
LC split cases commonly suffer from oil migration issues due to internal oil leaks. so best check the level on the inside of the case to make sure nothing is over filled, and the proper fluid is in there.
Looks insignificant. Monitor the leak and run with it. Looks like a clean unit.
You don't need to take the transfer apart. If you can pull the idler out to expose the O ring, it can be changed with no dismantling whatsoever. But pull the shaft out too far and the idler gear will drop in the case and it will need to be (partially) dismantled.
Dismantling the case in-situ is quite straightforward and requires no special tools. Remove propeller shaft, flange, then dismantle the case. Getting the two halves apart is the only tricky bit.
You idler shaft will be either 34 mm (81-84) or 38 mm (late 84 to 89). The O ring (at least for the 38 mm idler) is readily available from Toyota.
This is the level of disassembly required to replace.
Up to you to decide if this is difficult or not. Disassembly isn’t that difficult, but it is tedious and time consuming. You better seal it up good, or it will leak. Much more difficult if the transmission is in the vehicle. Good luck.
Up to you to decide if this is difficult or not. Disassembly isn’t that difficult, but it is tedious and time consuming. You better seal it up good, or it will leak. Much more difficult if the transmission is in the vehicle. Good luck.
ToyotaMatt
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in this unique case ( only ) due to the level of diss-assembly to simply replace a O-ring ...here ...
- i have drained the T-case fully ,
- absolutely sanitized both the D-Groove shaft , and surrounding Aluminum with NON-Clorinated Break klean
spray out the M8 bolts threads hole also too !
- use a Stainless-Steel little Wooden Tooth Brush , any other Bristle media will NOT work ,,,fyi
= Polish the S#HIT out of the D groove shaft face , its side rim , and AL thee Flat aluminum flat surrounding it
down off the edges to the lower level where FINS start
im talking BRIGHT METAL work here and nothing less ......fyi !!
now brake clean off the nice Sparky Bright work well especially the gap between the shaft and the aluminum bore hole
- if you go at this with anything other then Part # 00295-01281 OEM Toyota genuine part from your local dealer , all the 88.888 % Dr's office level pur and sanitary level grade prep time will be for nothing gained and my text book step by steps i outline here will not have the desired end goal result on this issue you have , that after i understood the Prep better like a share , i have never had this approach fail in the short term , let alone a longer term as in years ....
you will use the included TUNA Can opener and turn the tube Appling and depositing a nice cork screw even spiral starting out in the perimeter
apply no thicker then 3mm millimeters mil. thick on the flat
then use a NEW small hobby NATURAL Bristle brush , like the SILVER METAL TUBE ACID FLUX ones at home depot
work the OARNGE Color 00295-01281 Tran's-Axle Liquids Sealer in same spiral pattern , keep it THICK 3-4mm is perfect !
then Stop and walk away , a small fan moving air helps , BUT NOT too close
let it set over night ...........
to SET
see , this TOYOTA OEM Sealer is specific to ATF and Gear Oil GL4 , and GL5 , however its technically a NON-Hardening type , and remains some what flexible for life expansion and contraction
gear oil in next day 20 24 hours later ONLY
if you cheat fait here and rushy-rush , this will not wok and will fail ....! so do not cheat fait .....
i learned this at the Dealership Level early on ,.... Later i was shown how a DTM FLAT Black aerosol Lacquer hit in tiny mist shots and time few minute or se in between makes the oarnge vanish ,,,,
well i DO NOT subscribe to that step or skool of thout here to be klear ,
the rest above will work well if you make the time to take the time to follow my own personal alternative FSM Step by Steps ....
then later at a time of your choosing , go at the actual O-RING job replace .....
- is this a Band Aid approach ? ..........dam straight it is ,,,,
- how long will the OEM 00295-01281 Band Aid last ? ........... Prep here is 9/10's of the law ....bottom line ......the dealer sealer is the other 1/10 .....
so there you go , and now you know ...
./
