So my brother's 200 is locked and the keys aren't working, maybe a dead battery? Neither key fob works, and the metal keys inside the fobs are failing to open the door. Any thoughts on what he needs to do to unlock the car? Or is there a way for him to pop the hood to jump the presumably dead battery while its locked? He's called a locksmith to come out tomorrow, but I have my doubts that it will work to get in the car.
LC200 locked with dead battery?
- Thread starter IslandTimes
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Are you sure your battery is dead?
The reason I ask is... If you locked the car, but one door is not fully closed, it can cause the fob to stop working.
This happened to me once, and it wasn't until AAA was on the way that I discovered one door was not fully shut. Once I pushed it fully shut, the fob worked again. Try it.
Make sure he tries turning the metal key in different directions as it's the opposite direction of some other cars
If this doesn't work... kick it twice, but not three times. It may not open the door, but it may make you feel better. Do it three times and you may end up with a broken toe.
- Thread starter
- #6
Just wanted to update everyone.
I talked my brother through all the suggestions (even the kick!) but none worked. A locksmith came out and was able to get the door open; they then were able to pop the hood to jump the car. He said as soon as they put power to the battery the alarm went off and all the doors locked themselves again. He still couldn't get his key to unlock the car, so the locksmith unlocked it again and he was able to start the car with his key.
He took the car in to the dealership and they apparently fixed the problem with his key unlocking the car. I asked what they told him the problem was, but he apparently didn't ask them, he's not really a car guy. I know he rear ended another car some months back on his driver side, so my guess is something didn't quite get put back together correctly.
I talked my brother through all the suggestions (even the kick!) but none worked. A locksmith came out and was able to get the door open; they then were able to pop the hood to jump the car. He said as soon as they put power to the battery the alarm went off and all the doors locked themselves again. He still couldn't get his key to unlock the car, so the locksmith unlocked it again and he was able to start the car with his key.
He took the car in to the dealership and they apparently fixed the problem with his key unlocking the car. I asked what they told him the problem was, but he apparently didn't ask them, he's not really a car guy. I know he rear ended another car some months back on his driver side, so my guess is something didn't quite get put back together correctly.
If this ever happens to anyone else, I have the solution without calling a locksmith. Was locked out of my 2008 200 with dead battery and a worthless driver door lock. I was able to “jump” it from the starter motor and get it enough juice to unlock. Feel free to message me if this happens to you and I can help out.
normally once your in the truck, the manual key should work in all occasions for this, weird it did not since it is a purely manual system when you do that. Hold the Fob against the start button and then push it... if the car has any juice it should disable the immobilizer and start the truck. sometimes they can come unlinked when the battery dies and the immobilizer is activated and need to be reset, its in the manual as well.
The hood is a cable so again purely manual pull system..
The hood is a cable so again purely manual pull system..
Thats the key difference here.
They couldnt get in the truck even with the mechanical key. At least that is how I understand it
Glad it worked Oakley!!
If anyone runs into a dead battery and in-op mechanical driver door lock (i.e. missing key, damaged cylinder or linkage, etc), the step are nearly identical to ‘field jumping’ a failed starter solenoid, a tad easier at that. I’ve detailed the field jump for the failed solenoid here on Mud. I’ll dig up the link.
Same tools needed but if it’s the dead battery scenario, you’re simply going to ‘charge’ the BAT side lug on the starter solenoid. With the + charged on the BAT starter solenoid lug and the - from the jumpers hooked to the block, hit the FOB button & unlock. Disconnect jumpers without arc’ing and pop hood and do a normal jump start.
The field jump for the failed solenoid is similar but you hit the + on the starter motor side lug on of the starter solenid… at the exact same time you are pressing the brake and the start button. Takes a few hands to pull off.
If anyone runs into a dead battery and in-op mechanical driver door lock (i.e. missing key, damaged cylinder or linkage, etc), the step are nearly identical to ‘field jumping’ a failed starter solenoid, a tad easier at that. I’ve detailed the field jump for the failed solenoid here on Mud. I’ll dig up the link.
Same tools needed but if it’s the dead battery scenario, you’re simply going to ‘charge’ the BAT side lug on the starter solenoid. With the + charged on the BAT starter solenoid lug and the - from the jumpers hooked to the block, hit the FOB button & unlock. Disconnect jumpers without arc’ing and pop hood and do a normal jump start.
The field jump for the failed solenoid is similar but you hit the + on the starter motor side lug on of the starter solenid… at the exact same time you are pressing the brake and the start button. Takes a few hands to pull off.
how did you know what side was positive?
It’s my understanding that the starter doesn’t have a negative terminal, only a positive. So as long as you get your metal tool on the terminal you’re set and then you can ground to anywhere on the frame.
Ever dig up that link @cruiseroutfit
I’m in same scenario right now
LC been sitting, battery is dead dead, neither fob or manual key will unlock door. Odd because it turns fine both ways and is the proper key.
Dead in the water
Message Incoming
Seems 2 different things if I am reading it right
I just need to know where to connect my Noco jump box to get power enough to unlock door
Also curious why it won’t unlock with manual key, even though it turns both ways and is definitely the right key
Thanks
Go back to post 11 where cruiseroutfit details how to use this procedure to get enough juice to a dead battery to unlock the door. You’re basically accessing the positive battery terminal using the starter positive terminal. That’s where the Noco will connect. It’s very tricky and can cause accidental welding if you are not very careful. It will take 2 people, one to make the electrical connection under the truck and the other to unlock the door when the battery is energized.
Roger. Thanks. Gonna try to recruit a little friend because I don’t think I can get my fat ass under there with my Sasquatch hands
Why on earth won’t the doors unlock even with the manual key turning?
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My first thought in the past is getting the linkage from the cylinder into the latch/lock assembly correctly is tricky and past work left that part incomplete, but I've seen this exact scenario so often over the years it's hard to say all of these had work done in the doors.
Sorry you are dealing with this but I'm glad someone that seems likely to dig into the root cause is involved.