The original poster said that the key turned the lock normally. So it’s not an issue of the lock being jammed up or the key not being cut.
LC200 locked with dead battery?
- Thread starter IslandTimes
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The original poster said that the key turned the lock normally. So it’s not an issue of the lock being jammed up or the key not being cut.
Now I’m very curious. When I have some free time today I’m going to pop the hood, close the latch with a screwdriver, lock the cruiser, disconnect battery and try to unlock the door cylinder. Technically it should work just fine, that’s why the lock cylinder is there.
Not in my case.. metal key APPEARED to work 100% fine, had full throw in the cylinders in both directions.
But when truck bat was dead dead it wouldn’t unlock
Someone above did this and it opened the doors
I’m thinking their was residual power floating around
Maybe leave the battery disconnected for as long as ya can realistically and check it?
I’ll give it a shot. I didn’t have time to do it this weekend. Might try it at work today if things get slow.
I am not an expert at all but what would the point of a mechanical key (and assuming a mechanical lock) be if power, any power at all was need to operate it. I would think it would and should be a purely mechanical function, like the hood release. Otherwise what would point of the mechanical key be?
When this happened to me, I back fed power through the 7 pin trailer plug to wake the truck up.
Did your manual key not work?
In my experience, a total loss of power = manual locks do not work.
Ok, so maybe I am not losing my mind
No, but I don't know if that is my fault. I assumed it was because I replaced the actuator several years ago. I always thought that I didn't connect something correctly.
Same here.. but it worked fine for me once I put new battery in truck
I'm hopeful (but not necessarily optmistic) that there's a missing detail here. If the manual locks indeed will not open the door without some sort of residual current in the system, to me that's a BIG design flaw. Big enough to make me question all the heritage and "attention to detail" toyota has been known for in the LC name. I'm not smart enough to figure out whether or not mine will work without current, but know I'm going to cycle the manual mechanism soon enough.
something is definitely odd...
So it sounds like everyone who's manual key won't work without power has had their lock actuator removed, or at least isn't sure that it wasn't done prior to their ownership.
Does anyone have a rig with an untouched lock actuator that won't unlock with the key when there is no power?
Does anyone have a rig with an untouched lock actuator that won't unlock with the key when there is no power?
I think what may have happened is whomever installed the actuator didn’t insert the door lock cylinder rod into the lock actuator correctly. It may have not been engaged into the actuator until the door locked cylinder was turned and then the rod fell into position when the power lock was actuated again.
Sorry dumb question but why would the lock actuator be removed?