Builds Layonnn's 100 series build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Layonnn
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Better yet, move the winch control under the hood or run a hookup into the cabin.
- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks Ken. The light output from it is outstanding. A lot brighter than my Light Force 240s i had on the 80.
This is what i would do. Has some benefits, keeps the solenoid out of the elements (less corrosion) and prevent someone from tampering with the winch as easily, if that were to happen.
Got my Radflo front shocks and IPF fog lights installed last night. I hooked up the fog lights so that they work off the factory wiring and the switch on the stalk, also re-wired so that they stay on when you turn on the high beams.
Matt, i highly recommend doing that mod.
- Thread starter
- #64
Rained a lot this weekend, so no Sicily Island 4x4/camping trip.
Was bored yesterday since it was raining so much, so i decided to finally go and try and build me a dual battery kit (already have the battery and all wiring from the kit from my 80 and FJ). Hodges came over too and did some little maintenance items on his FJC.
I've had a guy at my dad's shop teach me some welding basics, but the most i have done so far was weld some nuts to the bottom of a plate for a CO2 bracket.
All credit for design goes to Slee Offroad. I made mine slightly like theirs with a little modification to it.
So, i grabbed some bar steel from Lowes and used some scrap steel from the back of the shop and got to it. I practiced on the scrap for a little while. My welding started to progressively get better, and by the end i thought they looked pretty good. Keep in mind, this is just a battery tray, if my welds don't hold up, i'll fix it, no big deal. Below are the first welds i made, and then the last sets.
If you see anything i could be doing better with the last sets of welds, please let me know
My learning process was my preferred method of trial and error, i like to teach myself stuff.
All welds were done on both sides. I also angled both sides of the tabs i welded on to get more penetration. Probably overkill for a battery tray, but better safe than sorry.
First couple welds, so bad, haha:
Last couple welds:
And now, here is some start to finish:
Plate cut out, and tab welded for bolt hole, these are my first welds i made, aka crap haha.
Where its gonna go:
Second weld, arm mounts to upper fender:
Roux was playing in the rain all day:
Checking fitment again:
Finished and painted:
Optima Yellow Top and Dirty parts kit installed.
Was bored yesterday since it was raining so much, so i decided to finally go and try and build me a dual battery kit (already have the battery and all wiring from the kit from my 80 and FJ). Hodges came over too and did some little maintenance items on his FJC.
I've had a guy at my dad's shop teach me some welding basics, but the most i have done so far was weld some nuts to the bottom of a plate for a CO2 bracket.
All credit for design goes to Slee Offroad. I made mine slightly like theirs with a little modification to it.
So, i grabbed some bar steel from Lowes and used some scrap steel from the back of the shop and got to it. I practiced on the scrap for a little while. My welding started to progressively get better, and by the end i thought they looked pretty good. Keep in mind, this is just a battery tray, if my welds don't hold up, i'll fix it, no big deal. Below are the first welds i made, and then the last sets.
If you see anything i could be doing better with the last sets of welds, please let me know
My learning process was my preferred method of trial and error, i like to teach myself stuff.
All welds were done on both sides. I also angled both sides of the tabs i welded on to get more penetration. Probably overkill for a battery tray, but better safe than sorry.
First couple welds, so bad, haha:
Last couple welds:
And now, here is some start to finish:
Plate cut out, and tab welded for bolt hole, these are my first welds i made, aka crap haha.
Where its gonna go:
Second weld, arm mounts to upper fender:
Roux was playing in the rain all day:
Checking fitment again:
Finished and painted:
Optima Yellow Top and Dirty parts kit installed.
Thats pretty good stull Layton. I am still learning to weld but I asked a master welder what the trick was and he told me to become a master grinder...lol
- Thread starter
- #66
Ha, thanks.
After i figured out the heat settings and wire speed, i finally figured out i was going too fast. Once i slowed down, they became a lot better. I need to get a welding helmet, right now i just have a shield i have to hold with my other hand, ha.
How does the led light bar handle rocks that get kicked up into it? I see a lot of people mounting theze on top of their racks and i'm starting to see them mounted more and more on bull bars. I'm still worried about what happens when rocks get kicked up into it.
I still have the dirty parts dual battery tray and wiring in the box. didn't get to install it before i sold the fj. Where are you mounting the solenoid? I might use the battery tray from the kit and weld some tabs so i can mount it in the 2nd battery location.
I still have the dirty parts dual battery tray and wiring in the box. didn't get to install it before i sold the fj. Where are you mounting the solenoid? I might use the battery tray from the kit and weld some tabs so i can mount it in the 2nd battery location.
- Thread starter
- #68
dunno about rocks, guess i will have to wait and see, though i havent heard of too many folks with broke lenses.
I mounted the solenoid to the air box
I just drilled two holes and used two bolts. Its not very heavy and the airbox is pretty sturdy.
Also, i took out and cleaned my MAF sensor while i had the airbox apart. Definitely notice a difference in throttle response since cleaning it!
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The lenses on mine are heavy duty and resistant to damage from rocks but the right rock at the right angle and speed will put a hurting on anything. Let me ask you this...
How do your headlights hold up from the rocks and debris when you are offroad? How many lenses you broke and replaced in the past 5 years? In my opinion it is not a problem....if you are driving with enough gravel or rocks being kicked up that you constantly have broken headlights, crack grills, and damaged hoods and windshields then invest in some of the 3M headlight protectors and some custom sheets to also cover your LED lense....otherwise...just enjoy the time outdoors and dont worry about it.
In other words, in NY you'll be fine.
I actually don't worry about damage from rocks and pebbles when i wheel because I'm not going more than 5-10 mph at a time. I'm worried about if i have a $1000 light bar in front, on my bumper, and i'm driving on the highway and someone in front of me kicks up some gravel from road construction and breaks my light. This is what worries me. I've never been able to handle a light bar so i don't know well constructed it is.
- Thread starter
- #72
RI sells covers in black, amber, blue and maybe some other colors as well that would aid in protecting the lens, if you wished.
Optical Grade E-Series Light Cover
So no critiques or tips on my last set of welding? Does the last one look pretty good to those who know what they are doing?
Are you using gas? last one looks way better than the first. The key to welding is practice. Make sure your settings, speed feed and heat, are correct and take your time. A helmet is a good investment, Harbor Freight sells an auto darkening helmet that rocks and they usually have them on special. Movement is a small circle or U depending on what you are comfortable with. Once you see it you just push the little red molten ball along the weld.
yep plus the lense is ballistic rated material much like safety glasses.....
as for welding...I dont weld for the same reason you exhibited...because my welds instead of looking like a roll of nickels look like a line of turds. LOL Good try though...
- Thread starter
- #75
Yup, Argon, set to about 22psi.
I have been watching some more instructional videos online as well getting some tips and help on settings. Looks like the lower case cursive e is the technique i'll be trying next time.
I am pretty sure for most of the first welds i was just moving wayyyy too fast. Once i slowed down, they got a lot better and i could see the puddle better.
yep plus the lense is ballistic rated material much like safety glasses.....
as for welding...I dont weld for the same reason you exhibited...because my welds instead of looking like a roll of nickels look like a line of turds. LOL Good try though...
From the research i have done, the "stack of dimes" look is actually not as strong as a straight line. So unless it is something that will be seen a lot, i'll just go with the straight line.
My snorkel should be in the mail in the next few days, as well as my HID low beams.
- Thread starter
- #76
Picked up some DT headers from a member today as he drove through BR. Brand new from last group buy, hadn't even opened the box yet.
DDM HID low beams arrived as well. I accidentally ordered 2 pairs, so i have 4. Guess i'll have spares, haha.
Snorkel arrives Thursday. Looks like Friday night will be a busy install night.
DDM HID low beams arrived as well. I accidentally ordered 2 pairs, so i have 4. Guess i'll have spares, haha.
Snorkel arrives Thursday. Looks like Friday night will be a busy install night.
Some welders using MIG prefer to push the arc/gun and others prefer to pull the arc/gun. Give both a try...
I assume you've been practicing with some scrap steel. If not get some .180/3/16" plate scrap pieces and practice welding butt welds, overlapping welds and also 90* welds. Then grab some .120/1/8" plate scrap and start learning how to weld two different thicknesses...that seems to come up in much of my welding projects; focus on keeping the biggest heat on the thicker material...
Among other visual clues you should be able to see the heat affected zone on the back side of the plate(s). And yes...save stacking dimes for TIG or OA.
I always use a weaving pattern unless I need a very fine bead. This spreads the heat effected zone and allows for a larger puddle which in turn will get your material hotter since you are staying in the same spot for longer. I also prefer to (depending on the welder and its settings) run slightly hotter and lower wire than recommended. This gives me better penetration without having to worry about a bulbous bead, this is really nice if you need to grind. As a result, you get the best of both worlds, a great looking bead with great penetration. Also, I prefer the pull method over the push, but will do whichever one is most convenient. But definitely practice, practice, and practice!
- Thread starter
- #79
Thanks Shaggy and Spressomon, thats the kind of feedback i am looking for.
I like the pull method a little bit more (if available over push) because i can see what i am doing a little better.
Spress, before i started working on the tray, i cut a 1inch strip and started trying to weld that at a 90*angle to a bunch of flat steel. Then, after playing with it and the settings on the welder, i went ahead and started on the tray. It wasn't til i was about half way through that i realized i was going a little bit too fast. Once i slowed down, everything started going a lot smoother.
Now, i am trying to think of things to weld for the truck, haha.
I love gaining new skills and learning as i go along.
Any ideas for some fun stuff to make for the 100?
I wish there was a good way of making a CO2 tank mount/bracket in the rear.
I like the pull method a little bit more (if available over push) because i can see what i am doing a little better.
Spress, before i started working on the tray, i cut a 1inch strip and started trying to weld that at a 90*angle to a bunch of flat steel. Then, after playing with it and the settings on the welder, i went ahead and started on the tray. It wasn't til i was about half way through that i realized i was going a little bit too fast. Once i slowed down, everything started going a lot smoother.
Now, i am trying to think of things to weld for the truck, haha.
I love gaining new skills and learning as i go along.
Any ideas for some fun stuff to make for the 100?
I wish there was a good way of making a CO2 tank mount/bracket in the rear.
- Thread starter
- #80
Got headers installed last night.
Parts used:
DT ceramic coated headers
OEM exhaust manifold gaskets and manifold to downpipe gaskets
16 new manifold studs
16 new stud nuts
even with the mud discount this was 124 bucks for the studs and gaskets
I think i must work slow or something because the quoted 4-5 hours for this job seems pretty short. Got started around 5pm and Hodges came over to lend a hand around 8 or so. He was a trooper and stayed til about 130am helping out. I was too tired to install my Safari Snorkel, so that will have to wait. I needed to get some sleep before my niece's bday party.
Put the Cruiser on my Dads lift at the shop. Took off both front wheels and then pulled out the section of the DS exhaust with the cats. That all went smooth, yay.
Then i started working on trying to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. No way that thing was coming out of that space. Re-read instructions, unbolted DS of engine mounts, took the engine hoist and raised the engine, still no dice on getting that heat shield out. So, just tried to work around it and access the bolts/studs. I deliberately didn't spray the bolts so that they would catch on the studs and try and work them out. This plan worked on the DS. Got all but one stud out just by removing the nuts.
Removing these nuts/studs and installing the new ones on the headers took the most time (on the DS). VERRRRY cramped space, with little to no room to move a wrench at all. Without having the Cruiser on a lift, this job would have been even more difficult. I would not do this job again without a lift, personally.
So, got the DS all bolted up and tightened, moved on to PS.
PS was a breeze. Heat shield came right off. Only downside to the PS, is that most of the studs stayed on the block. The stud tips have an E10 torx head, very few actually came off with the torx socket and most started to strip. I had planned for this already and bought two nuts to use the "double nut" method to remove the studs. This worked perfectly and removed all the studs very easily. Also, any bolt hole that gave me even the slightest bit of trouble to start, i ran a tap through to chase the threads just to prevent any cross threading from happened. To access the bolts i used a combination of going through the engine bay, fenderwell, underneath/behind, and front directly under near the front differential.
PS took about 1/4-1/2 the time of the DS.
Got it all bolted up and zip tied up any hoses that looked like they might get close to the headers at all.
Once everything was bolted up, re-checked all the bolts for tightness, checked 02 sensor connections and wire routing, then fired it up. Let it run for a little while. Started to notice some smoke. It smelled like the typical smell of a new exhaust and the coating baking a little bit, though i did thoroughly check for anything burning. Nothing was burning and the smoke went away after a minute or so just as expected.
Results:
Sound - Revving in neutral has a much more throaty, deep V8 rumble to it that sounds a lot better. The exhaust on these 100s are whisper quiet so its hard to tell any difference out of the tailpipe, the sound seems as it was coming more from the engine bay. Pretty much same result accelerating under load. If someone got in the Cruiser, they probably couldn't tell a difference. I may look into removing the rear resonator and replacing the factory muffler with a magnaflow and then route a high clearance tailpipe.
Driving - A very noticeable difference in power throughout the power band. From take off, definitely more pep. When merging on the interstate it definitely feels like they have made up for the increased tire size, bumpers, sliders, and dual battery extra weight.
The DT headers are well worth the money, IMO.
Parts used:
DT ceramic coated headers
OEM exhaust manifold gaskets and manifold to downpipe gaskets
16 new manifold studs
16 new stud nuts
even with the mud discount this was 124 bucks for the studs and gaskets
I think i must work slow or something because the quoted 4-5 hours for this job seems pretty short. Got started around 5pm and Hodges came over to lend a hand around 8 or so. He was a trooper and stayed til about 130am helping out. I was too tired to install my Safari Snorkel, so that will have to wait. I needed to get some sleep before my niece's bday party.
Put the Cruiser on my Dads lift at the shop. Took off both front wheels and then pulled out the section of the DS exhaust with the cats. That all went smooth, yay.
Then i started working on trying to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. No way that thing was coming out of that space. Re-read instructions, unbolted DS of engine mounts, took the engine hoist and raised the engine, still no dice on getting that heat shield out. So, just tried to work around it and access the bolts/studs. I deliberately didn't spray the bolts so that they would catch on the studs and try and work them out. This plan worked on the DS. Got all but one stud out just by removing the nuts.
Removing these nuts/studs and installing the new ones on the headers took the most time (on the DS). VERRRRY cramped space, with little to no room to move a wrench at all. Without having the Cruiser on a lift, this job would have been even more difficult. I would not do this job again without a lift, personally.
So, got the DS all bolted up and tightened, moved on to PS.
PS was a breeze. Heat shield came right off. Only downside to the PS, is that most of the studs stayed on the block. The stud tips have an E10 torx head, very few actually came off with the torx socket and most started to strip. I had planned for this already and bought two nuts to use the "double nut" method to remove the studs. This worked perfectly and removed all the studs very easily. Also, any bolt hole that gave me even the slightest bit of trouble to start, i ran a tap through to chase the threads just to prevent any cross threading from happened. To access the bolts i used a combination of going through the engine bay, fenderwell, underneath/behind, and front directly under near the front differential.
PS took about 1/4-1/2 the time of the DS.
Got it all bolted up and zip tied up any hoses that looked like they might get close to the headers at all.
Once everything was bolted up, re-checked all the bolts for tightness, checked 02 sensor connections and wire routing, then fired it up. Let it run for a little while. Started to notice some smoke. It smelled like the typical smell of a new exhaust and the coating baking a little bit, though i did thoroughly check for anything burning. Nothing was burning and the smoke went away after a minute or so just as expected.
Results:
Sound - Revving in neutral has a much more throaty, deep V8 rumble to it that sounds a lot better. The exhaust on these 100s are whisper quiet so its hard to tell any difference out of the tailpipe, the sound seems as it was coming more from the engine bay. Pretty much same result accelerating under load. If someone got in the Cruiser, they probably couldn't tell a difference. I may look into removing the rear resonator and replacing the factory muffler with a magnaflow and then route a high clearance tailpipe.
Driving - A very noticeable difference in power throughout the power band. From take off, definitely more pep. When merging on the interstate it definitely feels like they have made up for the increased tire size, bumpers, sliders, and dual battery extra weight.
The DT headers are well worth the money, IMO.
