Builds Layonnn's 100 series build (1 Viewer)

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I do want them for the rear, i am still undecided. The Radflos for the rear would be more than twice as much ( i think) as the OME L's. I have always felt that the dampening in the front was a lot more critical than the dampening in the rear. My semi plan right now though, is to install the OME t-bars and rear coils, and radflos up front.
If they are all that impressive, than i might go with the 2.5s in the rear too. If i am not that impressed, probably OME L's.

The OME L series shock for the 80 series will not work for the 100 series Land Cruiser. The stem diameter for the 100 is 17mm while the 80 series is 14mm. The L series shock will move around in the pin hole on the frame if you were to use L series shock.
 
The OME L series shock for the 80 series will not work for the 100 series Land Cruiser. The stem diameter for the 100 is 17mm while the 80 series is 14mm. The L series shock will move around in the pin hole on the frame if you were to use L series shock.

:popcorn: Layonnn's build thread is getting ready to be hacked up with the same OME L shock discussion that has kept people arguing on here for years...
 
The OME L series shock for the 80 series will not work for the 100 series Land Cruiser. The stem diameter for the 100 is 17mm while the 80 series is 14mm. The L series shock will move around in the pin hole on the frame if you were to use L series shock.

Thanks LT.

From what i read in the "L shock" thread Slee started, if you swapped the lower bushing from a 100 series shock onto the L shock, and did the same with the washer/bushings up top it would work.

I was also wondering if you could get the Radflo rears in the same compressed/extended length as the L's since i will have radflo's up front. Can that be done, or bad idea stick with stock length? I am waiting to see how the radflos perform before picking up the rears.

Here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/63422-john-n74l-vs-n101.html
John, the N74L should work by swapping some of the bushings.

Measurements:

N74L compressed vs N101 = 1" longer
N74L extended vs N101 = 2.6" longer

The bottom bushing ID is 19mm but on the N101 the width is 45mm and the N74L is 40mm. So you would need to use the N101 bottom bushing.

The top pin is 17mm on the N101 and 14mm on the N74L. The index washer lip is 26mm on the N101 and 22mm on the N74L.

So on the top you need to use the N101's washers and hardware, but you need to use the poly bushings from the N74L.

So there you go, send the check.
 
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I'm getting ready to pick up an ARB combo bar - where did you pick yours up at?

My dad has an auto upholstery/accessory business so i got it whole sale priced through one of his companies he buys from
Though, the price TRDparts4u has them at, was pretttttttty close to what i got it for. TRDparts4u is where i typically buy all my stuff from.

The main reason i went with the place through my dad is the shipping was only 50 bucks for the bar, tbars, and coils, and was going to be close to 4 times that from TRDparts4u.

Also, placed an order for the "cradle" mount for the 30" LED bar to mount it to the ARB. Crossing my fingers that it fits well since i haven't seen anyone try to mount this before on an ARB.

(i also got the 03+ bar. Very simple install and it works fine on older model 100s)
 
The OME L series shock for the 80 series will not work for the 100 series Land Cruiser. The stem diameter for the 100 is 17mm while the 80 series is 14mm. The L series shock will move around in the pin hole on the frame if you were to use L series shock.

L shocks worked on mine, no movement in pin hole. Maybe there is a size difference in the new "sport" OME shocks though? My "L" shocks are the old OME's. Personally, I would go with Radflo's all around, not that much cost difference when you look at the big picture and can rebuild the Radflo's when needed.
 
Are you selling the 80 off?
 
He sold the 80 already.
 
correcto
The 80 sold in a week after just mentioning that i was going to sell it when getting the 100. I had 3-4 people emailing me about it. Maybe i sold it for too little?!?

Waiting to put up some pics from my DSLR til i get the turn signals in the bumper, either tonight or tomorrow.
 
Got my OME torsion bars and 860 rear coils in today.

I have never worked on a torsion bar equipped vehicle, so even after reading a few threads on ih8mud, there was still a learning curve once i got under the cruiser.
Thankfully, this cruiser is about as rust free as you can get from a 10 year old vehicle.

Once you get all the bolts loosened, the hard part is getting the bar out of the spots it sits at each end. For the front i used a pry bar and just kept popping at it. For the rear of the bar, there is very little room to do much of anything and i was stuck! I called LT up at Metal Tech hoping he'd have a solution. He said he hadn't worked on one in a while and couldn't remember any tips/tricks to getting it out. So, called up Slee Offroad, he said you could hit at it from the back side and pop it out. Get off phone, look under truck, the back side is just solid metal, so hitting it won't pop out the bar. So, brainstormed for a few minutes, grabbed a mini-sledge (wear safety glasses at all times working under the truck!) and started tapping at the adjuster bracket. It slowly starts working its way off, WOOHOO! When this thing pops off, be out of the way of the adjuster bracket, it weighs about a good 15lbs or so and hurts if it falls on you :(

Then you just wiggle out the torsion bar. I grabbed the new OME bars, cleaned off the cardboard off the splines, applied some M1 grease to the splines to allow them to slide in easier to the brackets and to prevent any rust from seizing them up if i ever need to remove.

Installing them took a good bit of trial and error. It is definitely a 2 man job (IMO) in order to get them clocked correctly. For the rear, you have to be pushing up on the bar and rotating it WHILE then attaching the front end with the rear adjuster bolt all the way out and just seated in the threads. Once you do this, put anti-seize on everything, tighten everything back up, then torque everything down.

The rear a monkey could do (especially if its the apes from rise of the planet of the apes!).
Jack up, put frames on jack stands, unbolt the bottom of the shocks (not replacing shocks, they haven't arrived yet :( )
I unbolted from the frame just one side of the sway bar. It would be easier to unbolt both sides, but not necessary.
Then lift up on one side with the jack, which pushes down on the other side, pop out old coil, pop in new one, repeat for other side. Easy peasy.
I re-tapped the threads for the sway bar mount. Any time i ever remove a bolt and there is ever any resistance to it coming out i always retap and chase the threads on the bolt as well, just a habit. And apply antiseize :)

I forgot to bring my Bump It Offroad diff drop in to install.
Tomorrow, Hodges is meeting me up at the shop. I am going to be painting the White Knuckle rock rails, Outrider lower shock armor (thanks Fingas74!), and probably something else too. Jason has a snorkel to install :) :) :)
Radflos front shocks should arrive Tuesday-ish, mount for LED bar should arrive Monday, snorkel gets shipped out ~Sept 1st-ish.

Here are some cell pics from today. Got better ones on the DSLR, just need to upload them.

LClift1.jpg


LClift2.jpg
 
Looks awesome.
 
Layton, I pulled my shock armor off of my FJ and it didnt fit they did not fit the shocks on the cruiser. Let me know if yours fit and if you got the 2nd generation units, they are a bit larger.
 
Layton, I pulled my shock armor off of my FJ and it didnt fit they did not fit the shocks on the cruiser. Let me know if yours fit and if you got the 2nd generation units, they are a bit larger.

Which shock armor were you trying?
 
To fix the rear wiper issue take the cover off the pivot point. Remove the nut and. Adjust the wiper arm on the splines. Easy to fix. I have done mine before.
 

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