Land Cruiser de-evolution (1 Viewer)

[YardPig]

"On my initial test-drive, my VSC light came on and started beeping at me on a sweeping turn. I couldn't make it do it again, and it never happened on any other parts of my drive. What does that mean to me? There are no ABS lights or anything, and I've been assuming I would see something like that if a sensor isn't working or whatever...any experiences with that kind of behavior? Since I've been driving with the CDL locked until now, my VSC has been off--this is a new problem for me. "

VSC Delete and be done with it, one wire mod. Impressive it only got cranky once so far, I would assume it would be locking up the ABS with those mods and ride height, but maybe the front end is fairly stiff? If you can live with it then leave it alone, but the 1 wire switch mod give you the option on the fly...

 

[Odyseuss]

The VSC system was not designed to work with modified suspension systems, and its performance may be affected by various changes. It was designed and calibrated for a stock suspension with stock tire sizes and changes to those components can affect its performance. It looks and sounds like you have done a great job getting things setup and avoiding malfunctions. I would expect that you have already calibrated the steering angle sensor, though that is a good thing to check when in doubt or concerned about proper VSC operation.

The VSC operation that you mentioned might not be all that uncommon for a long sweeping turn with a modified suspension. Depending on the vehicle speed, that might even be possible with a stock suspension. I've noticed more VSC sensitivity on some 100's with increased ride height. That system has some controls that can drastically effect the handling of the vehicle. Even if the VSC system doesn't appear to be malfunctioning, that still doesn't mean its operating exactly as intended.

I have found the behaviors of the VSC activation to have adverse effects to vehicle handling. I also find the VSC activation to be more of a handling concern than the vehicle stability when it is too sensitive, or operating at a point where the vehicle stability is not compromised enough to warrant that amount of intervention.

Fortunately, you can turn that system off easily enough. Like you mentioned earlier, you can lock the center diff or bypass that detection switch.
you can find more info on that here.

VSC OFF switch install.

 

[I Lean]

I have not calibrated the steering angle sensor, nor do I know how. I'll search a bit and find the answer here though, I'm sure.

So far, I've never had the brakes apply, or anything more than the beeping. So there isn't a lot of motivation to fix it quickly. I'm sure just disabling the VSC is the way I'll go. I don't need the car driving for me.

 

[FLWookie]

This thread really needs more pictures of the completed setup, for historical purposes! Great job!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Let's discuss changes to my Cruiser before you buy parts from us in the future

Great seeing you tonight and CONGRATS on the "Best of Show" at the BBW/ShowShine tonight. Such a cool rig!

 

[I Lean]

This thread really needs more pictures of the completed setup, for historical purposes! Great job!

Let's discuss changes to my Cruiser before you buy parts from us in the future

Great seeing you tonight and CONGRATS on the "Best of Show" at the BBW/ShowShine tonight. Such a cool rig!

That was a very surprising award, since it's a pretty mild build in a sea of well-built Cruisers! I didn't take any pictures of anything, maybe someone else took some pics with my 100 in the background that can post here.

 

[Knowbuddy]

I got you! Your cruiser seemed simple to the uneducated eye! But I did a little crawl under to admire it no pictures of that though.

 

[I Lean]

Driving it in 4WD wasn't as wonderful as I was hoping. Despite the center differential relieving drivetrain bind, the front axle U-joints are pretty noticeable, especially accelerating around a corner. That could be cured by using axleshafts with a CV joint in it--RCV or similar. Those are a BUNCH of money...and combine that with the little driveline vibration I have, made the next choice easy. The driveline vibration is because I totally nailed the pinion angle when assembling the axle. It's perfectly wrong for both a standard U-joint shaft, as well as wrong for a double cardan driveshaft.


So, part-time 4WD here we come! @cruiseroutfit had the kit in stock for me, which I picked up yesterday at the BBQ. Here it is after I pressed the bearing onto it:





Installation is pretty simple--basically, take the back half the transfer case apart to access the center diff. Replace the rear half of the differential with this spool. Reassemble. This pic is as far as it gets disassembled...ready to start putting it back together.





Here it is with the spool bolted on, ready to put the case parts back:





All buttoned up. I'll give it overnight for the silicone to cure before filling with oil and getting it back on the road.





Now, the former Center Diff Lock button on the dash will engage front-wheel-drive instead. Hubs are easy on this axle--for now I have the stock Ford locking hubs on it, but they're pretty ugly so I'll replace them soon.

 

[I Lean]

Since it has actual functioning 4WD now, I should probably make the ARB actually lock and stuff.

This looks like a nice spot to place the compressor.



Little bracket that bolts into 3 existing holes in the fender.



What you can't see easily, is that the 3 mounting points are not only 3 different heights, they're also 3 different angles. I'm not sure if that's original, or still a leftover from the wreck.



Either way, it all works in the end. Compressor is mounted and partially wired...ran out of time to complete the in-dash wiring, that will have to come next time.

 

[I Lean]

No pretty pics of the inside of my dashboard, but the compressor and locker are now fully functional. I put both switches where the factory locker switch blank was.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

That's exactly where I would want it when I buy it

 

[Odyseuss]

Nice! There's still plenty of room for the rear locker switch too.

 

[nukegoat]

No pretty pics of the inside of my dashboard, but the compressor and locker are now fully functional. I put both switches where the factory locker switch blank was.

Thats not for factory lockers. Thats for factory night view, which I will sell you out of kindness

 

[I Lean]

I was OK living with the occasional VSC beeping at me--but today it applied a front brake while going around a freeway cloverleaf. That's it--you only get one chance to try to throw me off the road. I grounded the wire as detailed in @Odyseuss thread linked above...not worried about adding a switch or anything.



This is sorta satisfying right now, but I might have to pull the bulb out of the cluster eventually. Maybe it'll burn out first--that would be nicely convenient.

 

[I Lean]

Since my caster adjustment was maxed out, I decided to modify the radius arms. I cut a wedge out with a bandsaw, stuck them in the press to bend the bottom plate, welded them back together and added a fishplate on top. That added about 4 degrees of caster.

Previously, I hadlowered the front ride height about 5/8", which would have given me approximately 1 degree of caster--moving from 3.5* to 4.5*, which completely took care of the little bit of twitchy steering it had on the highway. With this change to the radius arms, I added another degree, so I should be pretty close to 5.5* now, AND the adjustment is right in the middle of its range, so i can now add or subtract caster easily. I can also bring the front ride height back up if I care to, without compromising road manners.





In this pic, the caster angle is the same as before, when the bolt hole was all the way at the top of the slot.





The added caster made it even more rock-solid on the highway, although it does seem to want to pull right or left due to road crown a little bit more than it did before. Not necessarily in a bad way, just a change.

I originally planned on adding a swaybar to the front, but haven't taken the time to figure out how to fit one. I have nearly 4000 miles of living with it as is now, and I don't feel any need to add one. I think the natural radius arm binding, combined with the wider spring/shock spacing on the axle makes it nice and stable even without the swaybar.

 

[I Lean]

Minor update: I replaced the Ford hubs with these. I like that they are much lower-profile than the old ones...I don't really like how shiny they are. Unfortunately, I can't find any hubs that are black.



I also removed the bulb from the dash cluster, that used to be the VSC idiot light. It was surprisingly easy to get the cluster out, and the bulbs are labeled right on the back.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Such an awesome build! I think this may very well be the better way to go when wanting a V8 powered cruiser. Every time I'm in the wife's 100 I immediately think, "MAN this is comfortable!" I'm not just talking about the road manners either, I think that when it's still sitting in the driveway. This is the trifecta of LC awesomeness: true comfort, v8 power and solid front axle!

 

[I Lean]

New wheels! There wasn't a single thing wrong with my black wheels, other than I can't find a 5th matching one. But, Method has a closeout special going on that I couldn't pass up.

Before:


After: (but I hadn't put the center caps on the rear yet)


The black MB wheels (which will be for sale) are 18x9, +25 offset. The Methods are also 18x9, but +18 offset--so they'll poke out 7mm more, no big deal. That will probably be enough to eliminate the rubbing on the radius arms, but will also make the rubbing at the back of the fender liner a bit worse.

 

[bryson]

 

[LuisJr]

Loving it