KZJ78 knuckle rebuild. 54mm nut question and shim question

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1. See photo of 54mm nut installed. I’m guessing that is some sort of aftermarket nut. No set screws or any sort of locking installed. Both sides weren’t even hand tight. Removed by hand without a socket. Plan on replacing w standard 54mm adjusting nut, lock washer and lock nut. Is that the correct path forward?
CE695FED-86ED-4F47-BBFC-72E5486A427F.jpeg

2. No shims were installed on top and bottom of knuckle. I’m guessing I need to get a knuckle centering tool to get the shims done properly. Any other suggestions?
 
looks like the proper nut, just missing the locking ring that goes on the front, mine locking rings are countersunk torx screws with two positions that tighten up the wheel bearing with the ability to drill and tap new holes in the lock nut if the bearings are not getting tight enough,I have not had to do this yet as the holes that are in the lock nut are in the exact right position


you can see the lock ring further down this page, really good photos

cheers to Rummat81
 
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looks like the proper nut, just missing the locking ring that goes on the front, mine locking rings are countersunk torx screws with two positions that tighten up the wheel bearing with the ability to drill and tap new holes in the lock nut if the bearings are not getting tight enough,I have not had to do this yet as the holes that are in the lock nut are in the exact right position


you can see the lock ring further down this page, really good photos

cheers to Rummat81
I couldn't find the photo with the lock ring. Don't see it in this photo. Was it a different photo?
1607301788422.png
 
View attachment 2517647
its got some weird combination of nylon and metal and keys into the slots
That's the slip ring for the electric hub. I don't think it's the lock washer, but I may not be correct.

I'm wondering if it would be OK to just go back with a standard 54mm adjusting nut, lock washer, and lock nut. ??
 
What was OEM for your vehicle? If you don't know, put your VIN into ToyoDIY.com or Partsouq.com or Megazip and look at the parts diagram for the hub.
One diagram shows the standard nuts and lock washer.
link to diagram
1607347776805.png


And one diagram shows the nut as found and what they call a free wheel hub ring. Is that just he slip ring that locks the nut in place? Mine were found so loose that I assumed the locking concept was not working.
link to diagram
1607347878275.png
 
One diagram shows the standard nuts and lock washer.
link to diagram
View attachment 2518020

And one diagram shows the nut as found and what they call a free wheel hub ring. Is that just he slip ring that locks the nut in place? Mine were found so loose that I assumed the locking concept was not working.
link to diagram
View attachment 2518021

You really need to download the factory service manual RM183E. It has a section on the electronic hubs and tells you everything you need to know. There are two versions of RM183E out there, one version someone deleted the electric hub section, and another version includes it. The one that includes it has mixed up pages. Here it is:

 
That's the slip ring for the electric hub. I don't think it's the lock washer, but I may not be correct.

I'm wondering if it would be OK to just go back with a standard 54mm adjusting nut, lock washer, and lock nut. ??
its definitely 100% the lock ring, the hilux front hubs have a tab locking washer
lock ring.png
 
You really need to download the factory service manual RM183E. It has a section on the electronic hubs and tells you everything you need to know. There are two versions of RM183E out there, one version someone deleted the electric hub section, and another version includes it. The one that includes it has mixed up pages. Here it is:


Thanks. Yes I have the one with the electric hub info. All disassembly regarding the electric hub stops when removing those 3 torx set screws and the slip ring.
Removal of the axle hub from that point still shows removal of the lock nut, lock washer, and adjusting nut.
 
Thanks. Yes I have the one with the electric hub info. All disassembly regarding the electric hub stops when removing those 3 torx set screws and the slip ring.
Removal of the axle hub from that point still shows removal of the lock nut, lock washer, and adjusting nut.

I recently converted from electric to manual hubs. Here are a bunch of pictures if it helps. I don't think it's possible to use the manual hub nut/washer system on the electric hubs.

Why don't you take the opportunity to switch to manual hubs? Just get hardware from a 40/60 series or minitruck. You need the spindles, bearing hubs, free-wheel assembly, and all hardware.

I used parts from a 1976 FJ40. So its the old style where the rotor bolts on instead of presses on. I like it better in a way, as it's easier to change.

 
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I think the full picture has finally gotten through my thick skull. The slip ring and lock ring are one and the same, just different terms. The photo on Partsouq kind of threw me off as it only shows the metallic part of that piece.
1607435831266.png

And where installed it has something like a nylon insert as noted by Waikato Willy above.
Thanks all for comments.
 
Referencing my original post, 2nd question:

2. No shims were installed on top and bottom of knuckle. I’m guessing I need to get a knuckle centering tool to get the shims done properly. Any other suggestions?

Any recommendations for the knuckle rebuild procedure when no existing shims were found?
 
I'm not expert on shims, but from what I read when I re-built mine, the consensus was just put back what was there when you took it apart (number of shims / shim thickness size / location). Originally, the factory decided what was required. But now that these rigs are getting older, we don't know what the previous owner did. In your case, hard to tell if it came from the factory w/o shims or if the PO just removed them and didn't re-install on the past build. I'm sure someone on the forum will have a better answer than that. I wish I knew the exact answer. But Low Range Off-Road has a 9 part series that really help me out when I did mine. Below is part 1.

 
1. See photo of 54mm nut installed. I’m guessing that is some sort of aftermarket nut. No set screws or any sort of locking installed. Both sides weren’t even hand tight. Removed by hand without a socket. Plan on replacing w standard 54mm adjusting nut, lock washer and lock nut. Is that the correct path forward?
View attachment 2516854
2. No shims were installed on top and bottom of knuckle. I’m guessing I need to get a knuckle centering tool to get the shims done properly. Any other suggestions?
Hey just FYI, I remove my hub last weekend and I was also confused by this exact setup and the fact it wasn't even hand-tight. The manual diagram isn't 100% clear to me.

Tell me, what did you find underneath? And, when you re-assembled, what did you torque that nut to? 64 Nm?

Cheers,
Martin
 
Hey just FYI, I remove my hub last weekend and I was also confused by this exact setup and the fact it wasn't even hand-tight. The manual diagram isn't 100% clear to me.

Tell me, what did you find underneath? And, when you re-assembled, what did you torque that nut to? 64 Nm?

Cheers,
Martin
Mine was found just a little tighter than hand tight.
While I had it open, I just took the opportunity to convert to manual hubs. Torqued to shop manual specs.
 
I recently converted from electric to manual hubs. Here are a bunch of pictures if it helps. I don't think it's possible to use the manual hub nut/washer system on the electric hubs.

Why don't you take the opportunity to switch to manual hubs? Just get hardware from a 40/60 series or minitruck. You need the spindles, bearing hubs, free-wheel assembly, and all hardware.

I used parts from a 1976 FJ40. So its the old style where the rotor bolts on instead of presses on. I like it better in a way, as it's easier to change.

When you converted to manual hubs, did you replace the knuckle housing? If so, how did you figure out the shims, or did you reuse your shims?
 

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