koito headlamps on switchpro

[asu4runner]

as the title suggests..im cleaning up excess wiring on my 40. after adding lockers, aux lamps, vintage air kit, etc i had a few more wires than i like to see hanging out under the hood and behind the dash. the koito headlamp upgrade has two 20a fuses, one for each leg. i was wanting to run this off the switch pro. instead of taking up 2 individual 20a loads, i was hoping to use one of the 35a switches. would i trip this circuit instantly or would this be fine to run?

 

[charliemeyer007]

What do your light "bulbs" draw for power? Power = volts x amps. I'm thinking its worth trying - I'd make sure my wires are thick and the connections are clean and secure.

 

[MOTOV8R]

I think part of the reason they are wired separately is so that you don’t lose both headlights at once if you have some short or electrical issue. I think the bulbs are 55/60w low and high beam. Doesn’t seem like it should actually require 20a more like 10 or 15.

 

[asu4runner]

I think part of the reason they are wired separately is so that you don’t lose both headlights at once if you have some short or electrical issue. I think the bulbs are 55/60w low and high beam. Doesn’t seem like it should actually require 20a more like 10 or 15.

Ahhhh that makes sense for the separate fuses. Thank you! With a self repairing controller like the switchpro I’m not as worried about that.

 

[bikersmurf]

Ahhhh that makes sense for the separate fuses. Thank you! With a self repairing controller like the switchpro I’m not as worried about that.

Based on that statement I'd bet you haven't had your headlights go out while driving down a dark winding road in the middle of the night. At that time it doesn't matter if they'll come back on in 2 seconds. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Some people switch off the lights to practice for such events. Having an easy to get to switch for a seperate waterproof LED spot or flood light(s) can be very handy.

 

[asu4runner]

Based on that statement I'd bet you haven't had your headlights go out while driving down a dark winding road in the middle of the night. At that time it doesn't matter if they'll come back on in 2 seconds. Don't ask me how I know.

lol i have auxiliary lamps, but i can definitely see how that would be friggin terrifying.

 

[pbgbottle]

I lost all my headlights one night out in the bush. I figured I would jump a wire from bat to headlight one light is better than none right ! once I did it that it back flowed through the system and all my lights worked again and i was able to make it back home.

 

[1911]

Based on that statement I'd bet you haven't had your headlights go out while driving down a dark winding road in the middle of the night. At that time it doesn't matter if they'll come back on in 2 seconds. Don't ask me how I know.

Yes, I've owned British-made cars and motorcycles also.

 

[Grayscale]

as the title suggests..im cleaning up excess wiring on my 40. after adding lockers, aux lamps, vintage air kit, etc i had a few more wires than i like to see hanging out under the hood and behind the dash. the koito headlamp upgrade has two 20a fuses, one for each leg. i was wanting to run this off the switch pro. instead of taking up 2 individual 20a loads, i was hoping to use one of the 35a switches. would i trip this circuit instantly or would this be fine to run?View attachment 3790009

One switch turns on just the low-beam, correct? Will this set-up prevent running both beams at the same time?

I've only had headlamp issues with the relay switches, water getting inside, or something related to age. So, my other rig sports a low-beam-only, relay-switch-delete, fresh switch and conductors. It is a simple install that requires that the driver turn on the 'parking lamps' separately. I never use high-beams, there is always traffic traveling in the opposite direction.

 

[asu4runner]

I don’t believe

One switch turns on just the low-beam, correct? Will this set-up prevent running both beams at the same time?

I've only had headlamp issues with the relay switches, water getting inside, or something related to age. So, my other rig sports a low-beam-only, relay-switch-delete, fresh switch and conductors. It is a simple install that requires that the driver turn on the 'parking lamps' separately. I never use high-beams, there is always traffic traveling in the opposite direction.

it should not be an issue, but hey thats why i started this thread. Low beam pulls maybe like 10ish amps from what I can determine and high beams pulls closer to 15 I’m guessing. The switch pro is simply a power source, not a switch in this case. I will program the switch pro to send power automatically with ignition on to that circuit.

 

[Grayscale]

So, the ignition switch will power up the Switch Pros? Then that will power-up the factory dimmer switch, operating the high/low function? Effectively, you are building a daytime running-lamp scenario without the factory wiring to the original fuse block?

 

[asu4runner]

So, the ignition switch will power up the Switch Pros? Then that will power-up the factory dimmer switch, operating the high/low function? Effectively, you are building a daytime running-lamp scenario without the factory wiring to the original fuse block?

are you familiar with the oem koito harness? because it uses the original harness as a trigger for a new relay to send power from the battery to the new h4 bulbs.

 

[Grayscale]

are you familiar with the oem koito harness? because it uses the original harness as a trigger for a new relay to send power from the battery to the new h4 bulbs.

The OEM FJ40 harness is like this, in sequence: alternator, ignition switch, 20amp fuse labeled 'headlamp,' (dash) light control switch, (turnsignal combination) dimmer switch, lamps, ground to battery-negative. The Koito wiring would run current directly from the battery? Not from the alternator's charge terminal? The majority of the re-configured headlamp amperage now has to be delivered from the alternator thru the ammeter then to the battery, whereas before it went from the alternator to the fuse block. Wouldn't this change the behavior of the ammeter, always looking like the battery is low?

 

[pb4ugo]

For all practical purposes everything should be powered by the alt when the engine is running, except for the starter. The Koito headlight conversion is hooked up the batt to power the headlights. @asu4runner is correct the relays are triggered by the light switch.

 

[Grayscale]

My inclination is to use fusible link(s) for both relays, if they are powered at the battery-positive terminal. A busbar, or strategic use of corrosion-free fender hardware, might be useful for grounding of the new lamps, as well as existing lamps, horns, horn relay switch, etc, - every exterior, non-headlight lamp on my rig has a home-brew wire connection on the lamp-chassis for grounding.

 

[pb4ugo]

My inclination is to use fusible link(s) for both relays, if they are powered at the battery-positive terminal. A busbar, or strategic use of corrosion-free fender hardware, might be useful for grounding of the new lamps, as well as existing lamps, horns, horn relay switch, etc, - every exterior, non-headlight lamp on my rig has a home-brew wire connection on the lamp-chassis for grounding.

As @asu4runner mentioned in his original post inquiry, the kit comes with 2 20amp fuses with 2 relays and he wants to instead use 1 35 amp switch with his switchpro. Whatever a switchpro is.

 

[asu4runner]

As @asu4runner mentioned in his original post inquiry, the kit comes with 2 20amp fuses with 2 relays and he wants to instead use 1 35 amp switch with his switchpro. Whatever a switchpro is.

the switchpro is a power module that goes in the engine bay, that is self repairing and programable, to an extent. it runs a single data cable into the cab to a controller. so, you eliminate all the wires for individual accessories and switches, as well as all the relays and fuses. it has the ability to run up to 8 devices, and has a few trigger wires and a dimmer wire to tie into the lighting system.

SP9100 Switch Panel Power System - https://store.switchpros.com/sp9100-switch-panel-power-system/

 

[franklin40]

Based on that statement I'd bet you haven't had your headlights go out while driving down a dark winding road in the middle of the night. At that time it doesn't matter if they'll come back on in 2 seconds. Don't ask me how I know.

lol yup!! i have an intermittent gremlin in my light switch that sometimes acts up and all lights go out when i turn on high beams. that’s the exact opposite effect one expects and is a little scary for the few seconds it takes for me to wiggle the switch and all is well again. having one go out at a time would be preferable for sure!!

 

[bikersmurf]

Yes, I've owned British-made cars and motorcycles also.

Me too... about 20 years back I had a Triumph GT6. It was a basket case when I bought it, but it was only $500 and it had a freshly rebuilt engine. Just after I got it I was jumping it to get it running for the tenth attempt and connected black to black and red to red. That was when all the black Lucas smoke leaked out of the alternator. Some PO replaced the cables with ones from a positive grounded vehicle. I forgot this and connected the red clamp onto the ground and black onto the positive terminal.
So… I looked around the shop and spotted a spare 50 amp Landcruiser alternator. It was close to being a direct bolt on. I didn’t need any Lucas smoke to fix the 25 amp alternator that put out no power at idle.

That put an end to dim lights and the Lucas intermittent electron.