Knuckle Arm Studs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TomH
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IMHO, this is why we should all start using locktite on the stud threads - no need to retorque and also almost no chance of backing out bit by bit. Also, IMHO, the best time to torque these is with the knuckle off of the vehicle, no arms connected, no parts to prevent the proper torque, etc. I think that I used 35 lbs torque to the knuckle and then the recommended torque for the nuts. I used the locktite that is heat deactivated and I've always got a good torch, vise grips, sharp and strong and small point cold chisel with me on all our trails; this way even if something snaps I can release the locktite and either back it out with the vise grips or back it out with the cold chisel. HTH.
I agree with you on this and would make one additional recommendation. When doing a knuckle service, replace the old style studs with the new ones. It would be about $25 a side extra for studs, cones, washers and nuts. If you choose not to buy the new studs, I would certainly pull the existing ones, clean, and reinstall with Loctite to ensure they are secure.
I'm not sure how re-torquing would allow the fastener to loosen up over time. I'm going to have to give it a little more thought. Or maybe I'll just ask one of the fastener experts at work. We install and torque about 20,000 fasteners every 5 days (and I can't think of any application that gets re-torqued).
Tom
IMHO, this is why we should all start using locktite on the stud threads - no need to retorque and also almost no chance of backing out bit by bit. Also, IMHO, the best time to torque these is with the knuckle off of the vehicle, no arms connected, no parts to prevent the proper torque, etc. I think that I used 35 lbs torque to the knuckle and then the recommended torque for the nuts. I used the locktite that is heat deactivated and I've always got a good torch, vise grips, sharp and strong and small point cold chisel with me on all our trails; this way even if something snaps I can release the locktite and either back it out with the vise grips or back it out with the cold chisel. HTH.
Hey Turbo....
Where did you get the studs with the Torx ends?
I want some....
Are these available through you Dan?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Beno-I like those Torx studs as I have said and have 3 cruisers sproting the studs, but for my new FJ40 build I am going to use these:
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfo...id=44&osCsid=143ee7616d080f8c55948e88a3d557a1
Just another heavy duty option to consider!
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfo...id=44&osCsid=143ee7616d080f8c55948e88a3d557a1
Just another heavy duty option to consider!
Got the new studs in the knuckle.....these are purr-tee indeed.
I did not use locktite and I torqued them down real nice and tight. I am keeping the old ones in a baggie with the nuts and cone washers as trail spares just in case.
Nice upgrade IMO.
I did not use locktite and I torqued them down real nice and tight. I am keeping the old ones in a baggie with the nuts and cone washers as trail spares just in case.
Nice upgrade IMO.
beno, why did you choose not to loc-tite the studs? Just curious? Also, what did you torque them to? I'm about to do this job, and I ordered the new style studs (along with everything else) from CDan, so I am just trying to gain any insight that I can beforehand.
Re: ~Locktite: just don't want another thing to worry about when I break the truck on the trail. Quick on and quick off with the studs if need be. No worrying about torches, etc.
FSM calls for 71 ft. pds on the nuts/washer/cone washer, so I figure at least 50 ft. pds. on the studs. I did 50 and went a "bit more"--probably close to 70 ft. pds.
The last 2 knuckle jobs I tried to remove the studs and they wouldn't budge without damaging them. Guess I have been lucky. Glad to hear that no one got hurt other than your wallet.
Big vice grips at the bottom of the studs and a large vice to hold the knuckle in and you are golden. They should twist right on out.
-o-
newbie question, first time birf job on a 96 with 186k (i know what you're thinking...). i don't have the torx studs, so what's the best way to tighten the non-torx ones? vice grip on the bottom and knuckle in the vice like you were saying beno? seems like the only way to me, but not sure. thanks.
Either double-nut it or use a stud installer.
It's not published.
The standard bolt torque specifications pages in the FSM identify hardened studs as being a grade "6T". The standard torque for a 6T 12mm bolt is 53 lb-ft.
So does anyone have a toyota part number for the new torx top studs please? In Oz I can get trail gear magnum arp bolts for $25 a piece. Wonder how tojo compares..
90126-12010 for the e-torx studs (e12 is the torx fastener)
42323-60020 cone washers
90201-12019 flat washers
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I offer these and you should be able to order them to ship to AUS, or I can add that.
High Strength Knuckle Stud kit
This knuckle stud kit consists of 8 studs, 8 washers and 8 nuts The studs have a 9mm hex drive head and a taller shoulder that fully engages with the cone washer. The end result is a higher clamping force on the stud to prevent it from loosening. Testing of installed studs shows a 65% increase...
landtankproducts.com
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Cone washers, flat washers, and nuts are all similar price per unit.
