I know it's very bad to open to screws too far, but is there any harm in the number of times you open these valves? Not that I'd say we regularly open them, but every 3 - 4 years I'll do lift work (shocks, etc) and just wondered if that added up.
Lastly, when you say 3 revolutions and then anti sieze, I assume you're just sneaking some on it where it meets the metal?
Any metal, that rubs metal, does wear. That said, its so miniscule that the rest of the 200 will fall apart before those set screws wear to the point of failure.
To work on suspension with a KDSS truck, you open the set screws three revolutions, no more. Whatever threads are exposed, you can get anti-seize on. When you tighten the threads back in, you now have anti-seize on the threads that get corroded from the environment. I’ve only had to repair one KDSS from corrosion so far, six from Toyota dealership install failures, and one from an independent installation shop failure. At least the set screws that I’ve pulled out, the corrosion in only on the very, very end of the threads. That’s why I‘m very happy with just getting the very tip of the threads with some anti-seize on them.
As long as they aren’t over-torqued there should be no harm in opening them repeatedly.
I took it as three threads would end up with anti-seize, and this should prevent corrosion working up the threads.
You got it brother.
I like that you handle the shield mounting boss and other machined areas as well. I just might do this too.
Are you noticing a difference in how the bolt heads themselves corrode when untreated?
Nope. The bolt heads might be different, but the threads, and their exposure to the environment are exactly the same. For durability of the bolt heads, the Allen head style is more durable. The 8mm hex head was, in my opinion, not smart. So for those I have a snap-on Xtra drive socket. Which is designed for a tighter fit around the head. This bolt head, is not where you skimp on care. So that why I use this socket for the hex heads.
shop.snapon.com
For the Allen head, I have an impact metal, 5mm on a 1/2” drive with a long shank. It’s been a power house for the super crusty New England 200s. Even though I’m in NC, I mostly work on trucks from out of state.
What enamel paint do you use? Primer/rust converter?
I mechanical remove the rust first with wire wheels. Then I like Rustoleum Professional Enamel in Semi-gloss black
Ok thanks, and to follow up, I think I found a way to better word my question.
Would opening those bolts just a bit, and leaving them open while performing suspension work cause any issues? I don't want to introduce air into the lines and I'm trying to make sure I don't take any chances, but for extended work (like redoing front suspension) I wanted to keep the shutters open for a bit.
That’s what you are supposed to do. Open the set screws three revolutions (I mark with a paint pen to ensure I have the extra right of amount of revolutions), then perform all suspension work. Once all work is done, I jounce the suspension by a very short drive over some in even terrain, then part the truck on flat ground. Wait 15 minutes (as per the Toyota FSM), then tighten the set screws to their factory torque spec of 10 lbf.
If you go too far in unscrewing the set screws, you won’t get much air in, what will happen is you will get a bunch of pressurized hydraulic fluid blasting out. I had a customer call me after a Toyota dealership installed BP-51s and he said that the ride felt “off” and the was smoke coming from the driver side. Well… that was the KDSS fluid blasting over the muffler and burning off, then an out of spec KDSS pressure leaving no sway bar feeling. The dealership said they weren’t sure how to fix it, and just paid me to do it.
Best thing to do, is just follow the FSM when doing any work, and you’ll be golden. If you run into anything, just shoot me a message.
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