2008 LC 200 Corrosion Main Body ECU/Fuse Box/Wiring Harness

[hroger10]

Great, that adds some more important context. Here’s a revised version of your post incorporating these details and giving it a bit more structure:

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Subject: New to IH8MUD, Seeking Advice on Electrical Issues and Repairs for My First Land Cruiser


Hey everyone,


I'm new to the IH8MUD community and hope I'm posting this in the right spot! I recently purchased my first Land Cruiser (2008 LC200 with 180K miles) after wanting one for about 8 years. I drove from Colorado to Arkansas to pick it up from a Toyota dealership.


Before making the trip, I was aware that a few of the headunit buttons weren’t functioning properly, but all the electronics seemed to be working fine. However, after owning it for a few weeks, I noticed that the headunit started glitching when the interior lights and headlights were turned on.


I took it to my local dealership (most accessible for me given my location), and they discovered corrosion on the main body ECU, the driver’s side fuse box, and the wiring harness connections on both sides (photos attached). They believe the corrosion is caused by water leaking from the windshield.


Here’s the quote I got:

• Main Body ECU & Fuse Box Replacement: $2400
• Clean Corrosion on Wiring Harness Connections (Driver & Passenger Sides): $600
• Windshield Replacement to Address Leak: ??? (Estimate Pending)

With the electrical repairs and other maintenance items I want done, it’ll total around $6K. So, I’d be looking at a total of about $25K for a 2008 Land Cruiser with 180K miles.


I bought this LC200 hoping to get at least 10 more years out of it, but now I’m torn. Is it possible to clean/fix these corrosion issues without replacing the entire wiring harness, and can I still expect the vehicle to last as long as I want? I don’t mind putting in the work, but I’m trying to make sure I won’t run into bigger problems down the line.


My options feel like:

1. Pay for the repairs and hope it holds up for the long haul.
2. Cut my losses and sell it, potentially taking a hit financially. (Not a fan of this option, but it’s on the table.)

This is the first car I’ve purchased on my own after owning my previous vehicle for 12 years. I’ve posted photos of the corrosion and the issues I’m dealing with.


Any insight, suggestions, or advice on how I should proceed would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks in advance!

 

[hroger10]

If anyone wants to follow along, I proceeded with cleaning the corrosion and replacing the main body ECU/ Fuse Box. Still waiting to hear exactly where the leak was coming from. Hoping this fixes my issues, as I just purchased the vehicle….

 

[bloc]

If it’s drivers side it was most likely a sunroof drain. Passenger side could be that or the well-known cowl leak.

This is happening more and more. I kinda feel like an annoying popup for new users to clean their drains is a decent move.

 

[hroger10]

If it’s drivers side it was most likely a sunroof drain. Passenger side could be that or the well-known cowl leak.

This is happening more and more. I kinda feel like an annoying popup for new users to clean their drains is a decent move.

It was on both the driver and passenger side. I am having them check the sunroof drain, windshield, and cowl. Do you know if the only way to fix the cowl leak, is replacing the entire piece?

 

[bloc]

It was on both the driver and passenger side. I am having them check the sunroof drain, windshield, and cowl. Do you know if the only way to fix the cowl leak, is replacing the entire piece?

A few people have rigged up something along the lines of a gutter above the fresh air inlet under the cowl to channel water away from the hazard area. I haven’t seen a way to do that that doesn’t also impede airflow as well though.

So really the “right” way to do it is replace the part.

Also if you use a good windshield installer for any subsequent replacements the cowl is more likely to survive the process intact. Though not guaranteed.

 

[hroger10]

A few people have rigged up something along the lines of a gutter above the fresh air inlet under the cowl to channel water away from the hazard area. I haven’t seen a way to do that that doesn’t also impede airflow as well though.

So really the “right” way to do it is replace the part.

Also if you use a good windshield installer for any subsequent replacements the cowl is more likely to survive the process intact. Though not guaranteed.

I’ve seen the gutter method as well. I will have them take a look a the part, and potentially go ahead and replace it!