Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread (2 Viewers)

[katit]

Awesome thread. Extremely detailed. You're making great progress!

Thank you! Hopefully it will be useful to someone. Not as detailed as some others but I try to document main pieces

Here is a list of parts from second order I placed. Should all be here tomorrow. That should be covering pretty much all "while in there" stuff.

 

[2001LC]

Got it apart. Finding lot of broken clips from dobbs service. Some incorrect nuts/bolts.. All will be fixed.
Do you think it's main seal leak? Calling @2001LC for help here.. Lot's of oil on top of belt tensioner. But seal is clean?!? All around is covered with dirt, looks like engine oil. This area covered with some cover, is that a common leak point?

White marks on TB is MY way of changing TB. I did align belt to prove it's correct. Then I placed marks on belt and sprockets. I will transfer those marks to new belt. I've been doing this for all TBs and it's easiest way to go. No need to align, etc.

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Sorry just saw this. It does look like crank seal leak. Why seal so clean IDK. It could be leak was from bolt that holds on the tensioner. I coat the threads of tensioner securing bolt that goes into oil pump housing, with FIPG 103 (oil FIPG) .

 

[katit]

Sorry just saw this. It does look like crank seal leak. Why seal so clean IDK. It could be leak was from bolt that holds on the tensioner. I coat the threads of tensioner securing bolt that goes into oil pump housing, with FIPG 103 (oil FIPG) .

Will replace main seal and hope it's fixes it, hopefully it's not oil pump cover itself. That bolt yes - I just read FSM yesterday on assembly, it does call for FIPG. I got 1282B for water pump. For this bolt I'm just going to use Permatex.

I am "downhill" on this project now. All parts cleaned, motor clean. Various pieces reassembled. Now just waiting for parts. And injectors from cleaning..

 

[katit]

Spark plugs replaced.
1. New ones not gaped correctly (too small). FSM calls for 1.1mm
2. Old ones were done. I wonder if they lasted for 194k or they were replaced at some point in time.
3. I always little nervous replacing plugs. Never know what you find there. Bad threads, rich condition, coolant, etc. All looks great! None were loose, they look good. No oil in plug wells. No leaks around covers. No need for valve cover gaskets at this point!
4. Coils look great at least visually. No overheating signs, boots pliable.

 

[menancyandsam]

Where did you get that pump to change the diff fluid, looks perfect for the application.

Accomplished today (193xxx miles)

Differential oils: Used my pump - highly recommend. I used it for my other cars, very convenient, easy to fill, easy to clean, easy to use..
Front differential oil:
Was pretty dark, seems like original one.

Transfer case:
Was very dark, original for sure
Drain plug has 2 washers. Copper and aluminum. Normal? See pic..

Rear diff:
Was pretty dark, also original

Greased driveshafts. No sign of them being greased ever. Took many pumps (like 10+) to get grease out. I didn't overdo splines, only U-joints made sure new grease shows.. Had hard time with my grease gun, need to learn if it's bad or I don't know how to use it..

Plastic pan has 3 broken tabs and was held by 2 bolts only. Oil drain cover was missing. I hate when I see this. Why they do this??? This car was serviced in DOBBS(?????) Seems like every place they touched have something screwed up. Wrong clamps, missing bolts, etc. Hate it..

What is a good source for replacement pan?

There is some pretty big oil leak. No dripping yet, but engine soaked. Will post pics tomorrow or so, need to figure what is that.

Is there DIY for relocating front AC drain? It's not draining in a good spot, I see some rust related to that..

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[katit]

Where did you get that pump to change the diff fluid, looks perfect for the application.

Amazon of course..

CTA Tools 7077 Extraction and... Amazon product ASIN B00BWB06XM
I like it. It works good for side fill transmissions also. I use it with 1qt max, just found it more convenient like that.

Easy to clean

 

[medtro]

What is the part number of the blue boot in this picture? I apologize if this is in the lists you posted earlier. I tried to look for it and didn't see it.

 

[katit]

What is the part number of the blue boot in this picture? I apologize if this is in the lists you posted earlier. I tried to look for it and didn't see it.

You are correct, it wasn't on main list. Some of the starter parts were ordered from different website.

Sorry, I don't have PNs now. I thought it would be in order confirmation email but seems like their site broken, email didn't list parts

Denso starter parts

Premium quality Denso Starter Parts - armatures, brushes, brush holders, bearings, gaskets, insulators, seals, solenoids, starter drives.

www.aspwholesale.com

1. New rotor bearings. Measured old ones (metric) and found them under "Bearings" section.
2. Boot. Look under "Boots" section. They have "left" and "right" ones, pick one you need. It wasn't perfect fit, so be aware. Now after I installed starter Boot wouldn't sit flush, about 1/16 gap visible. Not ideal but it is what it is.
3. Screws for gear assembly. Under "hardware/screws". Those are about 5mm longer but good match otherwise.

 

[katit]

What is the part number of the blue boot in this picture? I apologize if this is in the lists you posted earlier. I tried to look for it and didn't see it.

Here we go, found on my desk. I would order other rubber boot they have, might fit better

 

[katit]

Today I finally monetized on welding classes I took in a past month. TIG welded right exhaust manifold. Trust me, I'm not good by any means. But it was like 5 minute job. And it's steel, welds pretty easy. So, if you do have access to local welder - don't buy new manifold if all it needs just a crack welded. Usually proper weld stronger than original FYI
Also welded on nuts to get broken studs out.

New gasket, studs and nuts here, this is taken care of now. I didn't hear anything from driver side and didn't touch it now. Whenever I get to do steering rack - will be a good time for left side.

 

[katit]

Almost there. It was a good idea to replace water bypass tube gaskets. One on a rear almost started a leak (you can see it on mating surface)

Intake and all around all ready to go. Waiting on one last plastic connector housing and couple nuts. Hope to get it running this week.
All new intake gaskets, cleaned injectors. All new vacuum hoses, fuel hoses, vent valve and grommet in left valve cover (this one is a must! was hard plastic and area around was dark from oil seeping though). All clean - intake, intake ports on motor, throttle body, etc.

 

[katit]

Back on a road. Will drive without covers until weekend and re-check everything. But so far so good. Test drive around block was OK. Motor runs very quiet, can't hear with closed hood. That means that left manifold most likely OK. In summary:

Timing belt job including:
- Water pump
- crank and cam seals
- Spark plugs
- Fuel injectors cleaned/tested, new seals
- All coolant hoses
- Coolant bypass gaskets (btw - MUCH easier to put intake on with front bypass removed)
- Intake reseal
- Starter rebuild
- Alternator rebuild
- Right exhaust manifold - repair
- All leaks/traces cleanup
- All broken/cracked plastic connectors replaced
- All vacuum hoses (except for 2 will get next time) replaced

Pics of replaced connectors and hoses

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Nice work @katit. I’m currently in the same process...along with replacing suspension, steering, and brake components. Been on jackstands for a month... Thanks for providing details and part numbers!

 

[katit]

Nice work @katit. I’m currently in the same process...along with replacing suspension, steering, and brake components. Been on jackstands for a month... Thanks for providing details and part numbers!

I think I did good (~15 days) considering I work full time. I prefer to do work in stages so I have running truck once in a while
Next for me - AHC. And then convenience/interior/stereo/etc. I will leave suspension for next year.

 

[2001LC]

Today I finally monetized on welding classes I took in a past month. TIG welded right exhaust manifold. Trust me, I'm not good by any means. But it was like 5 minute job. And it's steel, welds pretty easy. So, if you do have access to local welder - don't buy new manifold if all it needs just a crack welded. Usually proper weld stronger than original FYI
Also welded on nuts to get broken studs out.

New gasket, studs and nuts here, this is taken care of now. I didn't hear anything from driver side and didn't touch it now. Whenever I get to do steering rack - will be a good time for left side.

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Nice!.

I'm not a wield. But once reading here in mud; The metal needs annealing after wielding exhaust or will crack again. Reading that got me to wondering, if driving style had anything to do with some crack and some don't.

 

[katit]

Nice!.

I'm not a wield. But once reading here in mud; The metal needs annealing after wielding exhaust or will crack again. Reading that got me to wondering, if driving style had anything to do with some crack and some don't.

From my limited knowledge: Cast iron is very finicky, you need to preheat, weld and then let it cool in hot sand/etc. I wouldn't even try to fix one if it was the case. Our manifolds is steel which makes it so much easier. But I was told by instructor to heat it before welding. Rule is "if part runs hot - get it hot before welding". I did this with a torch. Then, I wrapped in a blanket to slowly cool. Time will tell, but weld is thicker than original metal. I did it only because it was so accessible with alternator out.

As far as why it fails. When I googled for failed LC manifolds - I've seen cracks all over manifold, so it's hard to understand why. I guess if you get it hot and drive through water it may do it. In my case it's rear-most cylinder (not sure number), so to me it looks like the weakest link. When exhaust flexes it puts pressure on manifold and this cylinder is first one to get this. Also, when you rev motor - it flexes on mounts and also puts strain on manifold. I think condition of exhaust mounts, engine mounts, etc - will all attribute to this failure. More flex - more pressure.

Most importantly - the way this flange made is biggest problem. Flange that cracked has sharp 90 degree bend on a back. And metal is not very thick. It's a stress point and by welding I put lot more metal on that spot. If it cracks I bet it will be in some other place.

 

[katit]

I think I did good (~15 days) considering I work full time. I prefer to do work in stages so I have running truck once in a while
Next for me - AHC. And then convenience/interior/stereo/etc. I will leave suspension for next year.

Drove it yesterday for couple miles - ran great. Today I took truck to work and in about 5 miles got CEL. Runs great.
Anybody guesses what it is? (I will check tonight with code reader)

 

[2001LC]

Check the DTC (codes). DTC are set off after 3 times in most cases. CAT DTC P0420 & P0430 takes operating temp, 4th or 5th the gear and 2K to 3K RPM. O2's may also take same drive IDK.

 

[katit]

Check the DTC (codes). DTC are set off after 3 times in most cases. CAT DTC P0420 & P0430 takes operating temp, 4th or 5th the gear and 2K to 3K RPM. O2's may also take same drive IDK.

P0155. It's exact sensor I was taking off when doing manifold. Heh.. I know those shouldn't be touched with any liquids. It came off without any soaking, all dry and clean. Reinstalled carefully.

Code points to "heater" circuit. Strange. It is time for sensors, don't see any mentioning in history of the car, but still strange. What did I do to it to throw this code. Maybe damaged wiring (installed manifold with sensor in it already)

 

[2001LC]

Check the wire harness block connection. I'd then clear the code and see if it comes back. But likely it just was old & weak, exhaust leak taxed it (not good for CAT), disturbing taxed it and it just gave up. Fortunately you can pick up Denso O2 fairly cheaply.

Side Note: One thing that concerns me is the with reusing any crush washer i.e: A/F (VVT engine), O2s, spark plugs, drain and fill plugs is the crush washer never work well a second crush. So I picked up some: ACDelco O2 G18mm.