Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread (1 Viewer)

[katit]

For the a/c drain line, i'm going to install this: 100/120-Series AC Drain Extension Kit — CRUISER GARAGE i saw it on another thread.

My truck came from the North, so it's a bit rusty, but the sway bar bracket is rotting as a result of the usual rust in addition to the constant dripping over 17 years. The frame shop i use is going to fix it for $400-$500. Hurts knowing a $8 part could've saved this damage from happening...

Hah, I also found it and placed order today Piece of pipe and L is pretty simple. I do't have extensive damage, mainly because of oil leak in area But one of the bigger pipes that goes along body got some rust from this. Will need to clean/preserve.

 

[katit]

Coolant Ts replaced. I highly recommend this clamp tool. Took care placing clamps into same position. As usual, left T was really bad. "Noses" of Ts were broken off and somewhere inside. Hopefully I will get those flushed out when I do Tstat/Pump/Tbelt.

I use those red clamps to prevent spillage and it also helped me get broken plastic pieces out. Not bad job, but never had trucks before, had to sit on a battery

Used LuquiMoli engine flush for 10 minutes and replaced oil with new high capacity M1 filter.

 

[katit]

This is all damage so far from AC drain. Not too bad. And overall underbody condition. I think for 2001 it's not bad at all. I will take care of all this once maintenance completed...

 

[katit]

Today I did full transmission fluid exchange with M1 ATF MV. Took me 13.5 qt, I think it was little low on fluid.

Followed instructions from @2001LC here:

Dexron III or Toyota WS ATF transmission fluid. What ATF are you using?

My understanding with atf synthitic for newer model 2006+ is not recommend as I read it here somewhere. Someone tried atf synth and had issue. Can anyone confirm using synth atf with zero issue in 2007 lx tranny?

forum.ih8mud.com

The only thing I did differently (Yes, shoot me ) - I did let it pump air to maximize amount of fluid pumped in one session. It won't hurt anything, there is plenty of lube and 2-3 seconds don't make any difference. But it will do about 3qt at a time.

Truck at 194k, previous "flush" according to records was completed by PO in 2017 at 155k. Not at dealer. Old oil didn't smell burnt, was slightly dark. Still think good idea to get good stuff in and it's 40k anyway..

All in all, easy job, no mess, all went smooth. Result? Shifts smoother for sure. Did it stop "kicking" when I put in R? No. Same thing. I will ignore it. Maybe grease yokes more to the point where I see grease coming out. But for now I'm happy with result. Filled tranny ot the "HOT" lever per FSM

 

[katit]

Coolant. Radiator was replaced recently in local chain. No trust to what they did as far as coolant. Yesterday added quart of prestone flush. Drove car for ~40 miles with it, drained. There was some black specs drained. Re-filled with another quart of flush and distilled water. Ran engine for about 20 min with heat on high, let it cool, drained. More dirt came out. Less pieces but water was murky. Filled in third time with distilled water only, ran for 20 minutes, drained. Filled with Zerex. Soon I will be doing TB service anyway, will do another replacement. Need to find local place to dispose of coolant..

Note: I like how engine block drains done on Toyota. Very nice, no mess draining.

Replaced cabin filters. Wasn't really dirtly, were replaced before for sure.

Cranked left torsion bar 1 turn, right 1/2 turn. Will do separate AHC post later with all details on what I had and were I got.

 

[katit]

Today I gave engine light bath and replaced Fuel filter (OE). I am ALMOST done with all of fluids and all filters replaced.

Installed AC drain kit

 

[hoser]

You're to far back. Vehicle is front heavy. Look in those FSM for lift points!

The LX470 weight balance (when stock) is near 50/50...

I weighed our stock 98 470

There was 3/4 tank of fuel.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[katit]

Small steps.. Getting there. AHC fluid changed. Nothing horrible, records show replacement 40k ago. Dark but no bubbles or anything horrible. However, I have about 7 graduations on tank between lo and high. Time for new globes I guess expected at this mileage/age. Well, new rear coils on order. Will order globes and looking forward to experience "Lexus" ride

Big container shows what I took off tank and drained from left side. Small container much lighter, what I drained from right side.
Again, very happy with relatively "rust-free" truck, no issues with any bleeders even though one rubber cup was missing.

 

[katit]

Today brake bleeding day. I followed procedure from 2nd page here.

Front Rotor Removal

Great link jahmaka. Good article on Brake fluids too Stoptech article on Brake fluid the message here is this: it’s fine to upgrade from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 3 fluid B, but you should think twice (maybe even three times) before switching from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 4 fluid of any sort...

forum.ih8mud.com

The only difference is I bled pump. To do that I first pumped pedal (IGN off) 30 or so times to get all fluid out of pump and into reservoir. Then I used syringe and tiny tube to suck as much fluid out as possible. About 1 liter.

At first I was going to use my pressure bleader but adapter I got just won't work on huge reservoir in LX. So, I got brilliant idea to use one of the 3 bleeders I have at home. I took 11yo #2 and she pump pedal like a champ. Rears went very nice, lot's of fluid came out. With fronts not so well. She would pump 3-4 times, we wait until pump stops (we did all with IGN ON), then I open bleeder and just an ounce or so comes out. Did about 5 times on front calipers and called it a day. Clear fluid coming out, good enough for now. I will be driving making sure I activate ABS when I see chance (during winter/rain) and then repeat flush in a year or so.

When we were done I asked her to pump pedal 30 or so times with IGN OFF to get all fluid into reservoir and topped it off to MAX.
Rubber caps replaced, all cleaned with brake clean to watch for leaks

WARNING! On YouTube video guy used charger/conditioner on battery while bleeding. I didn't. Well, battery died, had to put it on charger after procedure. I guess brake pump takes some juice. And battery PO installed also from 10/17 is about 1in shorter than mount platform


Only have PS fluid to change left. Seems like there is no more leaks after I added clamps on PS hoses, so I will do it and let it be until I get to work on steering stuff.

 

[katit]

I am used to tint in all cars and cant live without anymore. Called my guy, he said there is no way to match. I was thinking maybe do lighter film on back and even it out but he said it's already 20% on back. Decided on 20% on front windows and called it a day. Half hour later driving it like used to. Under some angles can't see difference but under others see mirror on back windows. Oh well, still better.

 

[katit]

Placed $500+ worth of orders. Partial parts list which covers:
1. TB job with all of the rollers (no acc belt as I got it fresh)
2. Starter R/R all the bits needed.
3. Alternator brushes and bearings.

 

[katit]

Got it apart. Finding lot of broken clips from dobbs service. Some incorrect nuts/bolts.. All will be fixed.
Do you think it's main seal leak? Calling @2001LC for help here.. Lot's of oil on top of belt tensioner. But seal is clean?!? All around is covered with dirt, looks like engine oil. This area covered with some cover, is that a common leak point?

White marks on TB is MY way of changing TB. I did align belt to prove it's correct. Then I placed marks on belt and sprockets. I will transfer those marks to new belt. I've been doing this for all TBs and it's easiest way to go. No need to align, etc.

 

[katit]

Pulled intake. I got most of the parts in. Starter and alternator going to be rebuilt/refreshed. Looks like mice was there at some point Or maybe bird.
ALMOST there with disassembly. And a lot of cleaning ahead...

Don't know what to do with different connectors. Seem like we need one FAQ for all different plastic connectors, electric tape, clips, etc. They just fall apart even though I go as careful as possible.

 

[semidriver]

I’d change the starter if I were you.

 

[katit]

I’d change the starter if I were you.

I got all seals, contacts, plunger, etc in. Will take it apart and if all checks in - I see no reason to replace

 

[katit]

Starter disassembly and check. Starter was working, I mostly did it while I was there and because it's a hard to get part and seem to have problems. At almost 200k and 18yo I figured it's good idea.

Contacts were worn, but not bad. Connector was corroded. All grease inside was baked, so basically it was a really good idea to refresh.
2 phillips screws were hard to take out (holding gear assembly). I found P2 is correct size, but only on a bit that was in my Makita set. By that time I already rounded one of the bolts. Took out another one just fine but those are there.. Had to drill out.

 

[katit]

Everything got good cleaning. Put rotor between centers and used some fine sandpaper to clean contacts. Gear assembly taken apart for good cleaning and re-greasing. Gear assembly has open bearings, just cleaned and repacked those. Rotor get's new bearings, used autozone bearing splitter to get old ones off

 

[katit]

New o-rings (big ones), new contacts, new rotor bearings, new rubber boot (covering contact). All cleaned and reassembled.
Smaller o-ring that goes where gear assembly is just didn't work for me. I wasn't able to get assembly in with new o-ring. It's job is to prevent grease escaping, so I degreased both surfaces (bearing outer race and housing) and used Permatex blue to seal it. If it ever becomes a problem (which I doubt) it will be a time for another starter anyway.

Also, see socket holding brushes spread apart. This was a trick I used to install stator over rotor. I first inserted socket from a bottom and then slid stator over rotor.

New bearings on a rotor just because. Old ones weren't bad, they don't spin afterall. However, it's sealed bearing design and they dried out. I think heat in that area get it.

Don't forget to put small ball in a gear assembly before you put 2 screws in!!! Don't ask how I know. But it won't fit through the contact hole.

Used dielectric grease on contact under boot. Hopefully will keep it from corroding.

 

[katit]

Today I quickly "refreshed" alternator. I did this before, so it was very familiar. Replaced brushes (see difference between old and new). Replaced bearings just because. All original parts. At this mileage/age bearings wasn't bad at all. Not that expensive. Took about half hours to take apart, clean, assemble. Simple stuff.

 

[MongooseGA]

Awesome thread. Extremely detailed. You're making great progress!