Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread

[trdcorolla]

Wow! Didn't know that one. I will re-check FSM today. I measure looking in TechStream with full tank, I'm out of truck. I push from L to N and then once stabilizes I read pressures

Looking at my old posts it looks like my pressure went down .8 not 1.0 with the sensor unplugged. As a reference point, my stock LX with new LC AHC coils and a 30mm spacer with a full tank of gas, 3rd row installed and a bunch of spare parts in the rear cubbies and a small mechanics tool kit under the front seat, I had a rear pressure of 6.0 Mpa. Since then i've added sliders, rear lca skids and a roof rack and i'm still in spec.

 

[OklahomaOvrland]

Amazing job so far can’t wait to see what you do next!

 

[katit]

Stereo sucks big time. I bought Android HU for functionality, I'm not audiophile but I like to listen music. I have (had?) clipping when make music loud it would shut down intermediately and then resumes. And sounds really bad.

I was about to get set of components, sub and do complete rewire as I suspected amp to be bad. I also noticed someone replaced sub with Kicker speaker. Luckily, I found good priced sub + amp here in classifieds and decided to keep ML amp and speakers.

Today I replaced all speaker foams(simplyspeakers.com kit) and replaced front grills. I also replaced amp (first) but had same clipping. Made conclusion it's got to be ML head unit which is fine.

I didn't try speakers loud yet (glue still drying) but at low volume I like how it sounds! Didn't replace sub yet. But so far looks promising. And if amp is good it means I have 2 amps now and good to go for long time hopefully.

 

[katit]

Looking at my old posts it looks like my pressure went down .8 not 1.0 with the sensor unplugged. As a reference point, my stock LX with new LC AHC coils and a 30mm spacer with a full tank of gas, 3rd row installed and a bunch of spare parts in the rear cubbies and a small mechanics tool kit under the front seat, I had a rear pressure of 6.0 Mpa. Since then i've added sliders, rear lca skids and a roof rack and i'm still in spec.

Checked FSM. 2 things I noticed:
1. It says to shut down engine and then look at readings (which I didn't)
2. It says to remove temp sensor but ONLY for taking rear pressure measurment. NOT for front.

Is that how you did it? And main questions, where is AHC temp sensor located? I think I got it, it's on a side of pump below tank.

 

[2001LC]

Wait a sec. What you did - you lowered truck. Sensor's job is to tell AHC at what height to keep truck. So, pump will add pressure until desired height reached (reported by sensor). So yes, if you let truck sit lower at N - it will put more weight on springs/t-bars and yes, it ill lower pressure. But your ride height will not be correct.

So, even though you did lower pressure - you changed bunch of other things. Weight distribution, handling characteristics, bushings preload(twisted). There is specs on how high truck should sit at N position. PADDO recommends 19 3/4 front and 20 1/2 rear measured from center of hub to fender edge. I assume this corresponds to factory specs which measured differently (and not as easy as hub to fender)

All true. But keep in mind I was working on one that had been in accident. Many have frames slight out spec, accident or not. I've seen a few now, with a sensor arm or two bent or loose, without sign of wreck. If heights are correct, than yes, you likely not need to adjust sensors. But you can, too get the ride you like. Paddo is my go to guy on AHC. His word is gold. But also keep in mind the 19/3/4 and 20 1/2 is a rule of thumb.

I've spoken with Christo on this adjust the AHC pressure. He thinks it's a waste. He said, go drive around the block it will change. He's right it will change, temp will change it as will load..

What I'm after is a ride that isn't bonce and has noticeably change from sport to comfort . With enough rake to keep steering from wondering. And to this end have as little pressure as possible on AHC, to length the life of globs. A little tweaking of sensor isn't going to hurt anything. They are adjustable for a reason.

 

[katit]

What I'm after is a ride that isn't bonce and has noticeably change from sport to comfort . With enough rake to keep steering from wondering. And to this end have as little pressure as possible on AHC, to length the life of globs. A little tweaking of sensor isn't going to hurt anything. They are adjustable for a reason.

Make sense too. I think if what @trdcorolla posted above is true - I may be in just perfect spot with what I have. I may even have to raise truck by 1/2 inches I'm missing if what he said true as my rear pressure most likely below low.

 

[katit]

Not much excitement today I inspected under truck to find:
1. The WORST. Seems like I still have small engine oil leak from under lower TB cover. Oh well, I will have to live with it. New seal installed, nothing noticed on crankshaft.. I drove for 100 miles and I see weep hole getting wet..
2. The BAD. PO replaced CV axles at Dobbs and for sure it's not OEM. A LOT of play in flanges. I can move axle with my hand and feel it. This is where clunk from. BAD is because he paid almost new OE price for parts only, such a waste. It seems like EVERY thing done at Dobbs in last 4 years I have to undo now.
3. GOOD. I removed Kicker sub someone installed (4Ohm) and installed proper ML sub I got from classifieds (12Ohm). Clipping disappeared, radio plays good. Nothing extraordinary of course but no issues. It works and hopefully will work with new stereo I'm about to install.
4. Nothing special. Put new foam, clean bottom cover and installed.

 

[LXneewb]

Nice...How did you pull out the woofer? Did you have to take off all the rear trim or were you able to get away without doing that part like someone else had mentioned?

 

[katit]

Nice...How did you pull out the woofer? Did you have to take off all the rear trim or were you able to get away without doing that part like someone else had mentioned?

Straight-forward
Remove 2 safety belts 12mm bolts
Remove belt trim - torx screw
Fold left seat
I don’t have 3rd row installed
Pull carpet from plastic
Remove toolkit and cover
Pull off door rubber and hitch rubber where it contacts cover
Remove blacl plastic piston on right side inside tool storage opening
Pull whole thing out starting from top and it will come out

I just pulled enough to get to 5 10mm bolts holding sub enclosure

 

[katit]

Installed radio. Right now only OBD2 and phone audio connected. Spent all time doing wiring. All plug N play with TOYO-01 adapter. Sound quality is blah, but good enough for me, will work for sure. Sub works too. At least I have music now.

Trim and mount kit I bought didn't really work, factory mounts worked. Radio need to be tilted down a little and need maybe 1/4 inch spacers to bring it out so this trim plate sits tight behind factory panel.

Also need to route and connect USB, Mic, WiFi, GPS and rear camera. Any suggestions on good spot for USB and nice-looking USB panel?

 

[RobE30]

Great thread! My girlfriend and I just picked up a 98 LX for her last night. 253k, 1 owner, seems sound mechanically but I need to go over it a bit.

 

[Rolocado]

Dang... that is one lucky Lexy.... brought back from the mechanical dumps....

What kind of scissor lift do you have?

 

[katit]

What kind of scissor lift do you have?

This is Bendpak SP-7X. I paid $3200 installed back in 2005 I think. In current house I poured new slab in garage and installed it flush with a floor. I think this lift paid for itself many many times over. Between shop air, AC, light and lift - this makes working on cars fun

 

[phatdragon]

Nice build, where did you source the grills?

 

[katit]

Nice build, where did you source the grills?

Got them from cruiserparts.net but I think they are readily available from anywhere (dealer item)

 

[katit]

Today wired wifi, gps and microphone through driver's A-pillar. To do so removed cluster (to check bulbs while there). Again finding someones "work" on A-pillar where they didn't install it correctly. Stereo-wise I still need to mount radio with offset, install radio connectors(waiting from Amazon) and wire backup camera.

Instrument cluster: Now Japanese piece of equipment sports 1 china LED bulb and one bulb from my BMW stash, it worked. I knew I didn't have "D" bulb, but while checking others I found other burnt bulb which was driving light indicator. After reading suggestions on "not" replacing "D" bulb what I did I used "L" bulb for "D" and installed LED bulb in place of "L". Yes, if it was that bright in "D" I would be annoyed. But stock look is just fine with me.

AC panel. 3 bulbs burnt. Will order and replace.

Console panel. I don't have light on PRNDL, replaced one bulb in AHC switch (there is 2). Transferred green condom to new bulb. This bulb was EXPENSIVE. 2 of them probably cost as much as switch
So, about $20 in bulbs and I will have it all sorted!

 

[MongooseGA]

Running wifi... Are you running a monthly service? Curious of the details. I'd be able to spend more time camping if I had a wifi signal and could work (like a sat system?) where ever I was.

 

[katit]

Running wifi... Are you running a monthly service? Curious of the details. I'd be able to spend more time camping if I had a wifi signal and could work (like a sat system?) where ever I was.

Oh no, nothing like that. It's just WiFi antenna for stereo I installed (ATOTO A6). So I can run updates, download music etc while at home in my WiFi range.

I do have factory WiFi in my M3, but all it has is basically ATT service in car. When you go camping it would die anyway, usually those places don't have signal. Thats why I got ATOTO Android so I can download all kind of offline maps and have GPS without any data

 

[katit]

Some little things to make truck a little newer

 

[phatdragon]

New crisp butterfly is nice. #tech