- Thread starter
- #401
By the way, my neighbors wish I wasn't theirsI wish you were my neighbor
And when I start torching those bushes outside - they will be extremely happy.
Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread
- Thread starter katit
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
And when I start torching those bushes outside - they will be extremely happy.
- Thread starter
- #402
Ok, torching them is a way to go I think. That if you plan to restore paint. Soo much easier vs trying to cut core.
I can almost smell that through the screen.
I just read your thread from the beginning. Awesome work Katit! I love seeing these restorations rather than just people going bonkers with mods. Very cool to see the care and attention to detail going into this truck. Those seats and steering wheel covers you did look fantastic! I'd love that kind of leather work in mine.
Keep it up!
I just read your thread from the beginning. Awesome work Katit! I love seeing these restorations rather than just people going bonkers with mods. Very cool to see the care and attention to detail going into this truck. Those seats and steering wheel covers you did look fantastic! I'd love that kind of leather work in mine.
Keep it up!
- Thread starter
- #405
Thanks! I am liking all "factory". I may do some mods later, but it will be (if) all DIY. I am not into slamming aftermarket stuff.
As you see most parts I am using OE.
For leather - what I did is overkill for this type of car. I did it because I wanted to learn upholstery. Paying for this type of work is insane. Thats why premade covers so popular. Figure 40-60hr of not cheap labor if you pay shop do this. Plus 3-4 leather hides which can be very expensive if you buy good leather.
Mine will be used for a lot of going to the mountains and taking the family on trips to remote places. Plus, my kids are 1 and 3, so canvas seat covers are the direction I'm going so the interior doesn't get destroyed.
I'm a big fan of using factory parts, especially Toyota. So many of these trucks go for so long on factory Toyota parts, so it makes sense to keep using them.
- Thread starter
- #407
Parts received. But shortly after I got ~$50 FedEx invoice for customs clearance. Is that something new or I just hit certain threshold with ordering? All previous orders were < $1k
I received a similar bill for the last two orders that crossed the $1000 mark. Not sure, if this is new or because of the higher value order.
Nice job on control arm bushings. I ordered the LCA bushings but I chickened out and only put in LBJs. Mine didn't seem that bad.
- Thread starter
- #410
Not done yet, nothing to brag about. Those are PITA. I said it and I repeat it again..
Today I finished torching upper arms and got bushes out. I also torched bushes in lower ones, but didn't take sleeves out yet (shouldn't be a big deal)
For frame bushes - surprisingly went well. I was drilling out centers and this time I did it using short burst with a drill and hole saw. And I made sure I didn't overheat blade/bush. When you overheat it - rubber starts melting and whole thing starts to glue together. When you keep it cool rubber just cuts out like a wood. So, short bursts and I moved from one side to other letting them cool. And got them out prompto!!!
Second step - I used air grinder to notch lip on a bush and used hand chisel and 4lb hammer to fold lip inwards. While banging bush gets distorted and starts to move. Got them out relatively easy. Still PITA, but I expected worse.
Now I need to figure out how to get new ones in but I suspect it will be easier than removal...
- Thread starter
- #411
Little more progress and observation. Those lower bushings not same size. They go in by hand about 2/3, there is taper and change in diameter. So pressing needed only for about 2/3 of inch.
Finally removed all bushings from everywhere. And yesterday installed new bushings in a frame. My "tool" is on picture and they went in (greased) pretty easy.
Next is ball joints and arm bushes. And engine mounts. I am almost "down the hill" It's always harder to take stuff apart, prep and clean than to do final assembly.
Finally removed all bushings from everywhere. And yesterday installed new bushings in a frame. My "tool" is on picture and they went in (greased) pretty easy.
Next is ball joints and arm bushes. And engine mounts. I am almost "down the hill" It's always harder to take stuff apart, prep and clean than to do final assembly.
- Thread starter
- #412
Little more progress. Replaced engine mounts. This is "while in there" thing but it was good idea. Old mounts almost separated.
I had problem with replacing rear mount, it just wouldn't come out and I lifted tranny as high as it go. My tranny jack from HF gave, legs twisted
So, not sure what to do now. Looks like cross member need to come out but I am not positioned to do it while on a lift (truck lifted by this cross member). Rear mount looks good, maybe some other time..
Tip: If you do exhaust manifold - it's good time to replace engine mounts, you get better access to top mount nut. Right side had manifold and I had harder time getting it out. But still was, doable with flex ratchet.
I had problem with replacing rear mount, it just wouldn't come out and I lifted tranny as high as it go. My tranny jack from HF gave, legs twisted
So, not sure what to do now. Looks like cross member need to come out but I am not positioned to do it while on a lift (truck lifted by this cross member). Rear mount looks good, maybe some other time..
Tip: If you do exhaust manifold - it's good time to replace engine mounts, you get better access to top mount nut. Right side had manifold and I had harder time getting it out. But still was, doable with flex ratchet.
What scissor lift is that? I want one
- Thread starter
- #414
It's pre-China Bendpak SP-7X. I paid $3500 15 years ago. Now it's double that. If you have tall ceilings in garage and space - I strongly suggest to get 2 post.
This one works for most jobs but some stuff is not convenient. I am currently in process of building bigger garage and definitely going with 2 post. Will be cheaper and better.
I don't know anything about scissor lifts today, there is a ton of budget options, but they have different quality and load raitings.
- Thread starter
- #415
Front shocks ready. Some before/after pics. Blasted, painted, ready to install
- Thread starter
- #416
Brake calipers rebuilt. This time I decided to not take them apart before blasting. This way I don't have to spend hours cleaning grit from internals. For the most part it worked great, I painted that way and all was cool.
But when time came to rebuild - it was PITA. As we know brake fluid takes off paint quickly. So at the end I had to clean, degrease and give it some squirts of paint .
See how I came out with "fixture" to hold 3 pistons? It's so I can remove all pistons with compressed air. #4 piston I held with my other hand and once 3 pistons pop out - I let #4 go as well. Then I removed first 3 pistons using pry bar.
Question. What are those clips #1? I didn't have them installed. And I don't see them in FSM. #2 retainer clips came with a kit but I didn't have them on my truck either. And guide pins I had to get new because whoever worked on truck last time managed to bend them somehow???
But when time came to rebuild - it was PITA. As we know brake fluid takes off paint quickly. So at the end I had to clean, degrease and give it some squirts of paint .
See how I came out with "fixture" to hold 3 pistons? It's so I can remove all pistons with compressed air. #4 piston I held with my other hand and once 3 pistons pop out - I let #4 go as well. Then I removed first 3 pistons using pry bar.
Question. What are those clips #1? I didn't have them installed. And I don't see them in FSM. #2 retainer clips came with a kit but I didn't have them on my truck either. And guide pins I had to get new because whoever worked on truck last time managed to bend them somehow???
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Was the lit from Mr. T?
#1 are anti-rattle clips.
#2 holds together the brake pads and shims (that have prongs that inside the caliper pistons) to move together along the slide pins. That whole system helps retract the pads from the rotors when the brakes are released. If you don't have the appropriate shims the whole system doesn't work as designed.
#1 are anti-rattle clips.
#2 holds together the brake pads and shims (that have prongs that inside the caliper pistons) to move together along the slide pins. That whole system helps retract the pads from the rotors when the brakes are released. If you don't have the appropriate shims the whole system doesn't work as designed.
- Thread starter
- #418
Yes, this is in T rebuild kit (along with seals, etc)
#1 is not in FSM, not sure where and how to install. I can only see how it's temporarily installed to hold pads apart during installation.
#2 I guess doesn't apply to me? I installed them, but I use POWERSTOP kit (rotors and pads) and pads already come with anti-rattle plates glued to them.
So #1 remains mystery because not shown in FSM
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Post a link to the Power Stop kit. I need to see the pads to comment properly. Did you ever rig up a solution for the 2" door speaker?
You're about to have a 2021 LX470 by the time you're done, everything nice and shiny. How much have you spent so far, did you keep a log of it? I'm thinking of picking up a high mileage neglected 100 and polish the turd.
