Those are beautiful! How much?
Builds Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DomSmith
- Start date
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Very nice looking seats!
perfect seats 
..
...show you how you can clean them, if necessary
Cheers
Peter
.....show you how you can clean them, if necessary
Cheers
Peter
landcruisnman
1972 FJ55 "Iron Giant"
Dom,
those are sweet. Nice touch with the Heaters. I'll have to come over and check them out. I should have my 45 in 2 weeks. It came with new seat covers and foam. We'll see how they look. I told my wife today and I'm still married. Go figure. They worst thing she said was "do you really need another project?". How many cruzr heads have heard that before. Anyway, can't wait for it. I'll give you a shout when I'm a proud owner.
Later
those are sweet. Nice touch with the Heaters. I'll have to come over and check them out. I should have my 45 in 2 weeks. It came with new seat covers and foam. We'll see how they look. I told my wife today and I'm still married. Go figure. They worst thing she said was "do you really need another project?". How many cruzr heads have heard that before. Anyway, can't wait for it. I'll give you a shout when I'm a proud owner.
Later
Nice Dom,
What's next- Total frame off resto to match?.
What's next- Total frame off resto to match?
.
Man those are sexy seats!
Very nice!
Very nice looking seats, and heaters will be very nice. After reading too many of these threads I think I am in love with the 45 model. Can you tell me how tall you are, though? I am 6'2" and having not been able to meet a 45 in person, I have no idea if I would be able to comfotably fit in one. And if I did manage to find one, I very much want to keep it forever, so I would have to fit.
Thanks
Thanks
You'd be most comfortable in the model that allows you to remove the upper portion of the cab. The fixed cab model would be cramped, leg wise as it's about 3" shorter from the dash to the back wall of the truck.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
I dont think the non removable top cabs are that much shorter. the bed length difference is only 1.5" shorter from two beds I have personally measured.
thats not to say that the removable top cabs are roomy by any means, but a non removable top isnt that much worse.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
I am 5'10" and in my 63 SWB, its just about right. In my opinion, 6'2" in my rig would be a tight fit. UNLESS you are built like my Dad, who is 6'2" as well, however 6' of him is torso and the other 2" his legs and feet, LOL. He fits fine in my 45. However if you have 6' of legs and 2" of torso, the Non-removeable top cruiser would be like trying to fit into a shoebox to drive it.
My .02
Dallas
My .02
Dallas
Well, bummer. I am much more leg than torso, but somehow I think I will find a way to cope. Now I just have to find the rig. Going to Costa Rice soon, so I will have to do some scouting. If I find a truck in nice shape, you better believe I will be driving it back home. Thanks for pointing me towards the slightly larger removeable top version.
- Thread starter
- #273
Hi guys, been in Cabo for 5 days 
and just returned. Thanks for the compliments on the seats, I'm super stoked on how they turned out. Here are a few of the open questions answered:
The passenger seat has a generic seat belt that just barely fits a skinny chick. The driver side is from a box of parts I've had stashed for years. I think Brett mentioned they were probably old style jump seat belts. It just barely fits a skinny dude. There were some old clip on web style belts I removed and put away (I learned a long time ago not to throw cruiser stuff away). After looking around they are most certainly the OEM belts I've seen posted up on MUD. I need to come up with better belts but for now these will do.
I bought them through my upholstery guy. They are from Seat Comfort Systems. I have them in my 40 (installed myself about a year after he had done the seats) and they work well.
Original price for complete tear down, sandblasting (then me painting) spring re-build and seat reassembly with new foam (built, not a kit) and new custom vinyl (not pre-fabbed) was $375. I added the seat heater kits for $200 and then added $100 for them to do all the painting (prime and spray) with paint I provided.
$675 out the door. More than what I wanted but considering it was $475 without the heaters I'm very happy with the price and the quality is top shelf. Oh and I guess around $75 for CCOT paint? I don't remember.
I'm 5'10 and I fit perfectly with the seat all the way back. With the new foam I'm a little farther forward than I was before with the broken down seats. With that said, Mark A is not a small person and he drives his around the states like it's a civic, so.... it all depends on what you consider comfortable and what you're willing to do to have one. Certainly drive one before you buy.
and just returned. Thanks for the compliments on the seats, I'm super stoked on how they turned out. Here are a few of the open questions answered:The passenger seat has a generic seat belt that just barely fits a skinny chick. The driver side is from a box of parts I've had stashed for years. I think Brett mentioned they were probably old style jump seat belts. It just barely fits a skinny dude. There were some old clip on web style belts I removed and put away (I learned a long time ago not to throw cruiser stuff away). After looking around they are most certainly the OEM belts I've seen posted up on MUD. I need to come up with better belts but for now these will do.
I bought them through my upholstery guy. They are from Seat Comfort Systems. I have them in my 40 (installed myself about a year after he had done the seats) and they work well.
Original price for complete tear down, sandblasting (then me painting) spring re-build and seat reassembly with new foam (built, not a kit) and new custom vinyl (not pre-fabbed) was $375. I added the seat heater kits for $200 and then added $100 for them to do all the painting (prime and spray) with paint I provided.
$675 out the door. More than what I wanted but considering it was $475 without the heaters I'm very happy with the price and the quality is top shelf. Oh and I guess around $75 for CCOT paint? I don't remember.
I'm 5'10 and I fit perfectly with the seat all the way back. With the new foam I'm a little farther forward than I was before with the broken down seats. With that said, Mark A is not a small person and he drives his around the states like it's a civic, so.... it all depends on what you consider comfortable and what you're willing to do to have one. Certainly drive one before you buy.
- Thread starter
- #274
Bed Mat Install...
After the drive to Mammoth and a few trips to work with a few bags in the bed I decided I needed to find some kind of liner to keep the surface rust from getting all over my stuff. I used a large piece of cardboard on the trip snowboarding but that was a soggy mess by the time I got home. First I measured the inside of the bed (about 68" long and 63 3/4" wide) then looked online and wasn't sure the quality would be what I wanted. Then I dropped by the local auto parts places (Manny Mo and Jack, etc.) so I could put my hands on some of them. I couldn't find a universal fit so I thought I might buy a custom fit one for a Tundra that I could cut to fit but that seemed like a big if.
I finally settled on a universal bed mat that was 3/8" thick and seemed of high quality that I found online:
It's made by Rugged Mats and the part # is 400.RL and is listed as a 72"x98" Utility Mat (and Made In The USA!) I paid $70 with free shipping from Tri-State Enterprises but their site is something different and I can't remember it.
EDIT: HERE"S THE LINK: TRUCK MAT
So it arrived and I went to work...
Here's what I started with:
First I measured out the bad and made the first cut...
The edges are all finished so I knew I'd be losing two sides of that but the stuff is quite thick so I had no hesitation. I used simple tools including a razor cutter, tape measure, pen, a couple of straight edges, a square, some cups, cardboard, and trauma shears from work. I really took my time and made one cutout at a time and then fit that part to be sure it was right. Every cut was double checked before I moved on. In the front corners I used a glass that matched the curve as a template...
The trauma shears worked a little better on the corners than the razor. In the rear corners the curves were much bigger and I couldn't find anything that matched so I made a cardboard template...
I made small cutouts on the edges for the braces on the inside of the rear and also made cutouts for the rear tailgate braces and below the tail lights where the wiring drops down into the bed...
Here's the final product (If you look closely you can see the edging on the top and right side but not on the bottom or left side as it was cut off):
Here's how it fits:
The spare tire was a bit hard to get back on since I had welded the bracket with little room for play and the 3/8" thick mat actually did have an effect on the positioning of the tire. It's fine for now but may need some attention for ease of use in the future. All in all I'm very pleased with the results and for $70 and some manual labor it was well worth it.
Oh yeah, and get a lot of razors. I used 2 and switched them around so a total of four cutting edges. They dull quickly on the concrete and it would have been nice not to make the later cuts with a dull blade.
After the drive to Mammoth and a few trips to work with a few bags in the bed I decided I needed to find some kind of liner to keep the surface rust from getting all over my stuff. I used a large piece of cardboard on the trip snowboarding but that was a soggy mess by the time I got home. First I measured the inside of the bed (about 68" long and 63 3/4" wide) then looked online and wasn't sure the quality would be what I wanted. Then I dropped by the local auto parts places (Manny Mo and Jack, etc.) so I could put my hands on some of them. I couldn't find a universal fit so I thought I might buy a custom fit one for a Tundra that I could cut to fit but that seemed like a big if.
I finally settled on a universal bed mat that was 3/8" thick and seemed of high quality that I found online:
It's made by Rugged Mats and the part # is 400.RL and is listed as a 72"x98" Utility Mat (and Made In The USA!) I paid $70 with free shipping from Tri-State Enterprises but their site is something different and I can't remember it.
EDIT: HERE"S THE LINK: TRUCK MAT
So it arrived and I went to work...
Here's what I started with:
First I measured out the bad and made the first cut...
The edges are all finished so I knew I'd be losing two sides of that but the stuff is quite thick so I had no hesitation. I used simple tools including a razor cutter, tape measure, pen, a couple of straight edges, a square, some cups, cardboard, and trauma shears from work. I really took my time and made one cutout at a time and then fit that part to be sure it was right. Every cut was double checked before I moved on. In the front corners I used a glass that matched the curve as a template...
The trauma shears worked a little better on the corners than the razor. In the rear corners the curves were much bigger and I couldn't find anything that matched so I made a cardboard template...
I made small cutouts on the edges for the braces on the inside of the rear and also made cutouts for the rear tailgate braces and below the tail lights where the wiring drops down into the bed...
Here's the final product (If you look closely you can see the edging on the top and right side but not on the bottom or left side as it was cut off):
Here's how it fits:
The spare tire was a bit hard to get back on since I had welded the bracket with little room for play and the 3/8" thick mat actually did have an effect on the positioning of the tire. It's fine for now but may need some attention for ease of use in the future. All in all I'm very pleased with the results and for $70 and some manual labor it was well worth it.
Oh yeah, and get a lot of razors. I used 2 and switched them around so a total of four cutting edges. They dull quickly on the concrete and it would have been nice not to make the later cuts with a dull blade.
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Now that is some very clean work 
You plan on lifting it from time to time...just wondering about moisture getting trapped under there for too long.
You plan on lifting it from time to time...just wondering about moisture getting trapped under there for too long.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Beautiful work Dom on both the seats and the bed liner. Question, can you not do something to remove some of the rust without painting the bed? A chemical and some elbow grease. Then clear it or something if you want the patina? Still need to get with you about that H55 install for my LV. Cheers.
would "paint" my bed and all the other rust surfaces with
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj25-owners-group/275562-ballsitol-multi-purpose-oil-lube.html
http://www.ballistol.com/
looks good on rust surfaces and protect for a while... protect the patina
Cheers
Peter
forgotten
I know a guy who conserve the patina of his vintage Indian
only with Ballistol to protect the surface.
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- Thread starter
- #278
Got the F'ing CA DMV to finally register my truck with the original black plates!!!
It took some serious effort, tons of trips to the DMV (did I mention I always went on duty in SaMo for the extra love?).
All in all it was a mess. They asked me for forms. I gave them. They asked me for more forms. I gave them. They sent them in. Months later they issued me new white plates.
I went back. They needed other forms, photocopies, a form for 62 and earlier vehicles...
ME: "Uh... mine's a 65..."
DMV GAL: "Just fill it out..."
Photocopies of my license plate.
Statement of fact that I already sent paperwork showing these plates were attached to this truck.
ME: "It's on the original title we already sent in..."
DMV GAL: "Just fill it out..."
7 months later...
Got the registration with the correct black plate # on it.
Did I mention the weather's always nice here in CA? Well at least there's SOMETHING!
It took some serious effort, tons of trips to the DMV (did I mention I always went on duty in SaMo for the extra love?).
All in all it was a mess. They asked me for forms. I gave them. They asked me for more forms. I gave them. They sent them in. Months later they issued me new white plates.
I went back. They needed other forms, photocopies, a form for 62 and earlier vehicles...
ME: "Uh... mine's a 65..."
DMV GAL: "Just fill it out..."
Photocopies of my license plate.
Statement of fact that I already sent paperwork showing these plates were attached to this truck.
ME: "It's on the original title we already sent in..."
DMV GAL: "Just fill it out..."
7 months later...
Got the registration with the correct black plate # on it.
Did I mention the weather's always nice here in CA? Well at least there's SOMETHING!
Got the F'ing CA DMV to finally register my truck with the original black plates!!!
It took some serious effort, tons of trips to the DMV (did I mention I always went on duty in SaMo for the extra love?).
All in all it was a mess. They asked me for forms. I gave them. They asked me for more forms. I gave them. They sent them in. Months later they issued me new white plates.
I went back. They needed other forms, photocopies, a form for 62 and earlier vehicles...
ME: "Uh... mine's a 65..."
DMV GAL: "Just fill it out..."
Photocopies of my license plate.
Statement of fact that I already sent paperwork showing these plates were attached to this truck.
ME: "It's on the original title we already sent in..."
DMV GAL: "Just fill it out..."
7 months later...
Got the registration with the correct black plate # on it.
Did I mention the weather's always nice here in CA? Well at least there's SOMETHING!
At least it is finally done
merbesfield
SILVER Star
pics????????????????
