Nice Dom!! I will be doing the same thing in July.
Builds Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB
- Thread starter DomSmith
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Whats the scoop on your cruiser Dom? Been several months!
- Thread starter
- #283
Sorry this thread has suffered from a lack of attention. I've been traveling a bunch and been away for some time from MUD but have made a few small steps in a positive direction.
First I got some help from Pat at Summit Steel in making up a longer rear view mirror bracket so I can see out of the back of the rear window...
Some of you have seen the thread but here's what I did...
Progress of original to final product:
And final installed:
I still need to sand, paint, and prime it but that's low on the priority list and matches the rest of the "old" interior. The best part is I can see!
First I got some help from Pat at Summit Steel in making up a longer rear view mirror bracket so I can see out of the back of the rear window...
Some of you have seen the thread but here's what I did...
Progress of original to final product:
And final installed:
I still need to sand, paint, and prime it but that's low on the priority list and matches the rest of the "old" interior. The best part is I can see!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #284
I finally got around to wiring up the seat heaters that were installed when the seats were redone. I struggled with where to place the switches but finally just decided to go for it and put them in the most convenient spot.
I started by bringing a IGN wire under the seats to provide switched power to the heaters. This is the wiring kit:
Once power and ground was supplied they plug in quite easily...
I decided the switches would go right on the hinged portion of each seat where they were easily accessible for both driver and passenger...
Drivers spot:
And the (gulp) process:
Final...
Drivers side:
Passenger's side:
Not that I need them now but they'll be ready for winter...
I started by bringing a IGN wire under the seats to provide switched power to the heaters. This is the wiring kit:
Once power and ground was supplied they plug in quite easily...
I decided the switches would go right on the hinged portion of each seat where they were easily accessible for both driver and passenger...
Drivers spot:
And the (gulp) process:
Final...
Drivers side:
Passenger's side:
Not that I need them now but they'll be ready for winter...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #285
I finally decided that the bungee cord holding down the battery was a little too sketchy so I welded up a square top battery holder to match the original tray. It's not pretty but it does the job...
I also wanted some floor mats and after looking at the stuff on SOR's site I thought about getting a set but they were only available for the LWB per Marv. So, back to another buddy (Mike aka crusherboy) to use his for a fitment check. Well they fit just fine right out of the box so I picked up a set...
I also got a seat bottom from Rob so I can actually adjust my seat rather than holding myself in place with the seat belt. As you can see from a previous post my seat bottoms don't have the brackets for the adjustments. Thanks Rob!!
I haven't decided what the final outcome will be as I have to call my upholstery guy to see what he recommends. I may just swap this bottom in without blasting and painting but we'll see.
I also wanted some floor mats and after looking at the stuff on SOR's site I thought about getting a set but they were only available for the LWB per Marv. So, back to another buddy (Mike aka crusherboy) to use his for a fitment check. Well they fit just fine right out of the box so I picked up a set...
I also got a seat bottom from Rob so I can actually adjust my seat rather than holding myself in place with the seat belt. As you can see from a previous post my seat bottoms don't have the brackets for the adjustments. Thanks Rob!!
I haven't decided what the final outcome will be as I have to call my upholstery guy to see what he recommends. I may just swap this bottom in without blasting and painting but we'll see.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #286
I got to thinking about the tiny yellow floor jack under the seat and how it would be completely useless if I was unfortunate enough to get a flat. So I decided to go buy a new Hi-Lift Jack and swap the new shiny one into the 40 and transfer the 10 year old, beat up one to the 45. Deciding where to mount it was the challenge. I didn't want to drill any holes in the bed and also hoped to keep from taking up much usable space in the bed. I decided on an area near the passenger side of the cab in an upright position bolted to the rack.
I started with a thick piece of scrap metal...
After fitting the jack in the upright position I ground down the rack where the small plate would be welded...
Once the plate was cut down to size I made sure it would fit in the desired location...
After tac welding it in place and assuring proper fitment I finished up the welding...
Then added a large bolt to hold the jack in place...
And the final product...
I did unbolt the top bracket on the jack and rotate it downward so that the height of the jack is reduced. Now it only sticks up a few inches from the top of the cab.
I started with a thick piece of scrap metal...
After fitting the jack in the upright position I ground down the rack where the small plate would be welded...
Once the plate was cut down to size I made sure it would fit in the desired location...
After tac welding it in place and assuring proper fitment I finished up the welding...
Then added a large bolt to hold the jack in place...
And the final product...
I did unbolt the top bracket on the jack and rotate it downward so that the height of the jack is reduced. Now it only sticks up a few inches from the top of the cab.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #287
When I first purchased the truck it was decked out with a sweet old Motorola AM radio that squeeled every time you turned it on. No matter what I tried I could not get an AM station to come in clear. I also didn't like the location under the center portion of the dash so I removed it and pulled it apart to look inside and see if I could replace the mono speaker.
Well nothing worked so I mounted an amp under the drivers seat, added some Bose 151 outdoor speakers I had laying around and plugged in an IPOD for some tunes. This worked for awhile but for whatever reason it never worked quite right. The sound would cut out based on RPM, blinker activation, etc. I posted up and got some good suggestions but nothing worked. Ground was good, power straight from the battery, etc. Nothing. I'm pretty sure it was the amp so I just pulled it. So after struggling to decide where I could put a stereo I came up with a solution I could live with.
I would put the stereo under the passenger seat facing forward where it couldn't be readily seen but it could be easily reached. I am selling my 4Runner after 14 years and pulled the old Alpine unit out of it to install in the 45. I got an under dash mount kit from the local stereo shop for $20...
I didn't have the metal sleeve for the install but the stereo shop threw in a used one they had laying around. I cut out the plastic tabs inserted the stereo and ran the wires out the back of the mount...
Once wired up I also added an AUX input to the Ai Net plug that has an IPOD cable that comes up between the seats and also an XM Radio Tuner Box. I have the same stereo/xm box in my 40 so until I choose to activate the XM in the 45 I can just swap the box from the 40 if I want. I have not added an FM antenna yet because I'm not sure how that would look. If I do I suppose I would get one of the adhesive ones that stick to glass...
Initial fitting...
Side view (without trim piece) allows easy access but is totally out of view...
Final install...
All the controls are easy to reach as long as you know what you're looking for and I also have a remote that comes in very handy. Until I decide on a good location for speakers without drilling into the body I'm using the Bose speakers stuffed behind the seat.
This does limit the amount of space to stuff crap under the seat but is nice to have tunes while driving for sure.
Well nothing worked so I mounted an amp under the drivers seat, added some Bose 151 outdoor speakers I had laying around and plugged in an IPOD for some tunes. This worked for awhile but for whatever reason it never worked quite right. The sound would cut out based on RPM, blinker activation, etc. I posted up and got some good suggestions but nothing worked. Ground was good, power straight from the battery, etc. Nothing. I'm pretty sure it was the amp so I just pulled it. So after struggling to decide where I could put a stereo I came up with a solution I could live with.
I would put the stereo under the passenger seat facing forward where it couldn't be readily seen but it could be easily reached. I am selling my 4Runner after 14 years and pulled the old Alpine unit out of it to install in the 45. I got an under dash mount kit from the local stereo shop for $20...
I didn't have the metal sleeve for the install but the stereo shop threw in a used one they had laying around. I cut out the plastic tabs inserted the stereo and ran the wires out the back of the mount...
Once wired up I also added an AUX input to the Ai Net plug that has an IPOD cable that comes up between the seats and also an XM Radio Tuner Box. I have the same stereo/xm box in my 40 so until I choose to activate the XM in the 45 I can just swap the box from the 40 if I want. I have not added an FM antenna yet because I'm not sure how that would look. If I do I suppose I would get one of the adhesive ones that stick to glass...
Initial fitting...
Side view (without trim piece) allows easy access but is totally out of view...
Final install...
All the controls are easy to reach as long as you know what you're looking for and I also have a remote that comes in very handy. Until I decide on a good location for speakers without drilling into the body I'm using the Bose speakers stuffed behind the seat.
This does limit the amount of space to stuff crap under the seat but is nice to have tunes while driving for sure.
Last edited:
Texican
s-Moderator
I like
ya could have just done what the PO of my 45 did, hack the fawk out of the dash......
Great work Brother, !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Very nice and neat...great ideas !!!
Hi Dom,
It's nice to see the progress on your pickup. You are, as always, doing a great job. I still have your distributor shaft. We need to get together again for a cold one so I can return it. BTW, my son just got a job in Rainbow at the Fire Dept. He still has a some school time but soon he hops to join the ranks as a full time "paid" fireman.
Cheers,
Jim
It's nice to see the progress on your pickup. You are, as always, doing a great job. I still have your distributor shaft. We need to get together again for a cold one so I can return it. BTW, my son just got a job in Rainbow at the Fire Dept. He still has a some school time but soon he hops to join the ranks as a full time "paid" fireman.
Cheers,
Jim
- Thread starter
- #292
I've recently set aside the 40 to get a few things done on this beauty...
After installing the clutch a few months ago this rig has not seen much road time but I decided I need to work a few things out before I get too far behind. Ever since adding the re-manufactured Toyota pressure plate and disc I've had a bit of a wobble in it at higher RPM's. This caused me (along with the leaking front of the tranny) to pull and re-install the clutch 3 times to no avail. It operates fine, just the slight wobble when running above idle. With the tranny out and the clutch off and just the flywheel spinning it's fine at high RPM's... no wobble, etc. With the pressure plate on it wobbles at high RPM and you can see it seems to be off to one side just a bit. I've uninstalled and tried different holes, etc but there's really no wiggle room for any other adjustment as the edges of the pressure plate ride right up against the flywheel ridge.
So after ignoring this for awhile I mentioned it to the Toyota parts guy and he says they'll warranty it up to 1 year. "When did you buy it?"... Maybe 7 months ago????
Turns out it was 2/7 of last year so good thing I just happened to mention it today. Ordered it up along with a new disc (since I'm using the old original one after the new one got soaked with tranny oil because of the unresolved leak on initial install...
)
Needless to say I'll be adding a new disc along with the replacement clutch cover. I'm not excited about dropping the 3 speed again, but I'm getting lots of practice! I'll keep you posted on how that all turns out...
After installing the clutch a few months ago this rig has not seen much road time but I decided I need to work a few things out before I get too far behind. Ever since adding the re-manufactured Toyota pressure plate and disc I've had a bit of a wobble in it at higher RPM's. This caused me (along with the leaking front of the tranny) to pull and re-install the clutch 3 times to no avail. It operates fine, just the slight wobble when running above idle. With the tranny out and the clutch off and just the flywheel spinning it's fine at high RPM's... no wobble, etc. With the pressure plate on it wobbles at high RPM and you can see it seems to be off to one side just a bit. I've uninstalled and tried different holes, etc but there's really no wiggle room for any other adjustment as the edges of the pressure plate ride right up against the flywheel ridge.
So after ignoring this for awhile I mentioned it to the Toyota parts guy and he says they'll warranty it up to 1 year. "When did you buy it?"... Maybe 7 months ago????
Turns out it was 2/7 of last year
so good thing I just happened to mention it today. Ordered it up along with a new disc (since I'm using the old original one after the new one got soaked with tranny oil because of the unresolved leak on initial install...)Needless to say I'll be adding a new disc along with the replacement clutch cover. I'm not excited about dropping the 3 speed again, but I'm getting lots of practice! I'll keep you posted on how that all turns out...
- Thread starter
- #293
I also just got the driver's seat back from the upholstery guy after a month or so. I didn't have any kind of latch to lock the seat in place after having them redone so this was being taken care of at a leisurely pace. I used the bottom latch mechanism from the seat bottom that I got from Rob and dropped it off with the seat. At first we planned on putting the latch on and re-spot welding it onto the seat bottom but eventually decided that 6 steel rivets would be good enough.
They ground off the latch from the donor seat bottom, blasted it and primed and re-painted it with the paint I had supplied before. Then attached it with the 6 steel rivets after assuring full range on the adjustment.
Now I can actually have it lock in place rather than sliding around and being held in place by the seat belt...
For those familiar with these seats you can see the spring attachment elbow that we did not use. This seat has notches on both sides and I think it may have originally had the lever on the other side of the seat, but the donor I had required using this side and it works great.
They are re-webbing the seatbelts to the length I requested and I'll be putting those back in once they are finished.
They ground off the latch from the donor seat bottom, blasted it and primed and re-painted it with the paint I had supplied before. Then attached it with the 6 steel rivets after assuring full range on the adjustment.
Now I can actually have it lock in place rather than sliding around and being held in place by the seat belt...
For those familiar with these seats you can see the spring attachment elbow that we did not use. This seat has notches on both sides and I think it may have originally had the lever on the other side of the seat, but the donor I had required using this side and it works great.
They are re-webbing the seatbelts to the length I requested and I'll be putting those back in once they are finished.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #294
I had replaced the drivers side door weatherstripping earlier from the stash of 45 parts my buddy had lying around and I finally got around to replacing the passenger side door. It was very reasonable from Toyota with a discount (less than $40) for OEM.
First I removing the old rubber...
I started in the upper corners and cemented them to the top and used blue tape to secure each section. I slowly worked my way around until I got to the bottom. Here I found that I had a small extra length which must have just come from not bunching it up as I glued...
I used a pair of scissors after carefully measuring and trimmed the excess...
Left the tape on awhile and kept going back over each section and pressing it tight for a few seconds and done...
I also trimmed the canvas door stops that were put on by the P.O. and had stretched out. I re-sized them, drilled new holes and put the screws back in...
Next up, Bug Catchers...
Rubber from Robert...
First I removing the old rubber...
I started in the upper corners and cemented them to the top and used blue tape to secure each section. I slowly worked my way around until I got to the bottom. Here I found that I had a small extra length which must have just come from not bunching it up as I glued...
I used a pair of scissors after carefully measuring and trimmed the excess...
Left the tape on awhile and kept going back over each section and pressing it tight for a few seconds and done...
I also trimmed the canvas door stops that were put on by the P.O. and had stretched out. I re-sized them, drilled new holes and put the screws back in...
Next up, Bug Catchers...
Rubber from Robert...
Last edited:
Looking good, Dom!!! I had to step away from my junk as well. Selling off my crawler project and gaining room in the garage has motivated me to get back into wrenching again. Nice to see you back on here and making forward progress.
- Thread starter
- #296
Until I get a chance to tackle the bug catchers I decided I need a second side mirror for safety's sake. I drove home the other day with something in the bed which impaired the view of the right side of the rig when changing lanes and it was hectic to say the least. Driving 55-60 MPH on SoCal freeways is dangerous enough, but with the occasional lane change with no view its downright scary. So after ordering the parts from Toyota I needed to decide where to put it as my SWB had only come equipped with the drivers side mirror.
I was hesitant to drill holes along the right side of the body but I knew they had come from the factory that way as Tony's rig has one and the ever famous Lone Pine (or is it Big Pine?) 45 had one as well. Before I drilled I would make an attempt at mounting it to the windshield hinges like my 40 where you look through the front windshield to see the mirror head...
I tried and tried but the screws were not coming out without stripping. I tried PB Blaster, tapping with a hammer, a little heat, but they were not going to budge. Without my temporary solution possible I just bit the bullet and marked for drilling...
I was very careful to measure exactly where the factory holes were and even scrounged up the reinforcement piece I had acquired a few months back in case I decided to follow through with adding the mirror...
Next I held the arm in place and made sure that I could see the mirror head from the drivers seat. I also took a look at Tony's build thread to see how his mirror was positioned...
Once I was certain the mirror was in the exact factory spot I drilled the holes and mounted the arm and mirror. I'm in the process of sorting out how to paint the reinforcement after sanding and priming it. I think maybe a slight off-white or very light tan might match as best it can. Semi-gloss white did not meet the standard so for now I've left it off. I'm going to get the Toyota bolts instead of the temporary ones on there now and I'll add the plate when I pick those up...
For the record, the tightening bolt/screw on the arm was terrible. I tightened it as much as it would go and the inner arm piece was still loose. The bolt twisted and nearly broke before it ever got tight enough to hold the extension in place. I just removed it and added another Toyota bolt without the screw driver slot and it worked fine.
I was hesitant to drill holes along the right side of the body but I knew they had come from the factory that way as Tony's rig has one and the ever famous Lone Pine (or is it Big Pine?) 45 had one as well. Before I drilled I would make an attempt at mounting it to the windshield hinges like my 40 where you look through the front windshield to see the mirror head...
I tried and tried but the screws were not coming out without stripping. I tried PB Blaster, tapping with a hammer, a little heat, but they were not going to budge. Without my temporary solution possible I just bit the bullet and marked for drilling...
I was very careful to measure exactly where the factory holes were and even scrounged up the reinforcement piece I had acquired a few months back in case I decided to follow through with adding the mirror...
Next I held the arm in place and made sure that I could see the mirror head from the drivers seat. I also took a look at Tony's build thread to see how his mirror was positioned...
Once I was certain the mirror was in the exact factory spot I drilled the holes and mounted the arm and mirror. I'm in the process of sorting out how to paint the reinforcement after sanding and priming it. I think maybe a slight off-white or very light tan might match as best it can. Semi-gloss white did not meet the standard so for now I've left it off. I'm going to get the Toyota bolts instead of the temporary ones on there now and I'll add the plate when I pick those up...
For the record, the tightening bolt/screw on the arm was terrible. I tightened it as much as it would go and the inner arm piece was still loose. The bolt twisted and nearly broke before it ever got tight enough to hold the extension in place. I just removed it and added another Toyota bolt without the screw driver slot and it worked fine.
Last edited:
tucker74
Moderator
Guess it's a little late ... but have you seen these cool brackets from CCOT?
You can buy just the bracket for like $20, finally got my passenger mirror where I can see it
Tucker
You can buy just the bracket for like $20, finally got my passenger mirror where I can see it
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #298
Thanks Tucker those look good and I hadn't seen them yet. I've obviously already moved ahead with the mirror and it is actually in a reasonably good location. I found an Almond satin finish spray can at the local Ace and sprayed the reinforcement so it matches my original paint a little better than the white did...
The new arms are unpainted and I'm probably doing to paint them as the other side is painted and needs a new coat. It's body color rather than the silver color. Anyone know off hand whether mirror arms were body color?
The new arms are unpainted and I'm probably doing to paint them as the other side is painted and needs a new coat. It's body color rather than the silver color. Anyone know off hand whether mirror arms were body color?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #299
Bug Catchers
Well I finally ponied up for Robert Furman's Bug Catcher rubber and decided to do a preliminary install to see how it worked. Dallas had mentioned that there was quite a bit of extra material so I'm hoping to use about half now and the other half when I restore this rig for real.
I did the drivers side to start. First I removed the glass and what was left over from the original rubber and laid it out on the ground in case I needed to reference it later...
Then I cleaned out the channels and shop vac'ed out any remaining debris...
The rubber that comes from Robert has two different types. One goes into the rear channel and the top, front, and bottom are fitted with the other stuff. I looked on his website and printed out the CAD drawings and noted which was which so I didn't screw it up. It wasn't very clear what went where until I printed the drawings and started looking at the rubber and how it would fit into the slots. I have to say this stuff is pretty good for replacing what was in there. There are a few issues with how clean it comes out compared to a new OEM piece but considering the options this is an 8 out of 10 in my book.
The next step I took was to measure the rear channel and cut the rubber to length. This piece has a front channel that the glass rests in and 2 lips on the rear which snap into place inside the door channel. I had a difficult time getting the pieces to fit at first so I went with trying the rubber piece by itself and pushed one side of the lip in, then carefully used a screw driver to push the other lip in. You can see here one of the lips out of the channel (sorry for the bad pic).
Then I slid the glass piece in which was another pain. There are two small ribs on the back of the window piece and it took some serious patience to get these in the slots on the rubber. Note: there are a few spots where the channel varies in depth and the rubber is tougher to get into those places...
Once the rear piece was seated I measured and cut the remaining 3 pieces (top/front/bottom) one at a time and fitted them as I went. These pieces have the 2 lips that press into place as well but the front edge has one short side and one long side. I figured that the longer side was on the inside (near the interior) and the shorter section was towards the outside so the wing could close and seat against the longer side.
The bug catchers definitely work but they do stick a bit and can bind up on the rubber a little. Today they were hard to open. Not enough to keep them from operating but just enough that they can seat a little differently on the rubber. I have not glued mine either as I'm trying to figure out the best way to match up the edges. As Dallas mentioned in his thread the 45 degree angle did not work for him so I've stuck with the 90 degree look for now. There is an overlap issue that I will have to come up with a solution for sometime.
Bottom channel...
Here they are opened up...
Robert mentions the fact they are quite wrinkled when first installed based on the fact that they are stored rolled up. He suggests using a heat gun and that's exactly what I did. Be careful not to melt them!!!
Before:
After:
Oops. Forgot to mention that when doing the passenger side you have to remove the OEM factory wood retainer...
Well I finally ponied up for Robert Furman's Bug Catcher rubber and decided to do a preliminary install to see how it worked. Dallas had mentioned that there was quite a bit of extra material so I'm hoping to use about half now and the other half when I restore this rig for real.
I did the drivers side to start. First I removed the glass and what was left over from the original rubber and laid it out on the ground in case I needed to reference it later...
Then I cleaned out the channels and shop vac'ed out any remaining debris...
The rubber that comes from Robert has two different types. One goes into the rear channel and the top, front, and bottom are fitted with the other stuff. I looked on his website and printed out the CAD drawings and noted which was which so I didn't screw it up. It wasn't very clear what went where until I printed the drawings and started looking at the rubber and how it would fit into the slots. I have to say this stuff is pretty good for replacing what was in there. There are a few issues with how clean it comes out compared to a new OEM piece but considering the options this is an 8 out of 10 in my book.
The next step I took was to measure the rear channel and cut the rubber to length. This piece has a front channel that the glass rests in and 2 lips on the rear which snap into place inside the door channel. I had a difficult time getting the pieces to fit at first so I went with trying the rubber piece by itself and pushed one side of the lip in, then carefully used a screw driver to push the other lip in. You can see here one of the lips out of the channel (sorry for the bad pic).
Then I slid the glass piece in which was another pain. There are two small ribs on the back of the window piece and it took some serious patience to get these in the slots on the rubber. Note: there are a few spots where the channel varies in depth and the rubber is tougher to get into those places...
Once the rear piece was seated I measured and cut the remaining 3 pieces (top/front/bottom) one at a time and fitted them as I went. These pieces have the 2 lips that press into place as well but the front edge has one short side and one long side. I figured that the longer side was on the inside (near the interior) and the shorter section was towards the outside so the wing could close and seat against the longer side.
The bug catchers definitely work but they do stick a bit and can bind up on the rubber a little. Today they were hard to open. Not enough to keep them from operating but just enough that they can seat a little differently on the rubber. I have not glued mine either as I'm trying to figure out the best way to match up the edges. As Dallas mentioned in his thread the 45 degree angle did not work for him so I've stuck with the 90 degree look for now. There is an overlap issue that I will have to come up with a solution for sometime.
Bottom channel...
Here they are opened up...
Robert mentions the fact they are quite wrinkled when first installed based on the fact that they are stored rolled up. He suggests using a heat gun and that's exactly what I did. Be careful not to melt them!!!
Before:
After:
Oops. Forgot to mention that when doing the passenger side you have to remove the OEM factory wood retainer...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #300
I'm not going to bore you all with a detailed write-up of making changes to the OME springs I installed, but I did make some adjustments after talking to Kurt again. My ride was still pretty stiff after removing the third spring down (turning it into the medium duty application) so earlier I tried removing the two lowest leafs too.
As I suspected, the two lowest leafs are really only for heavy loads so taking those out previously was a waste of time. I've been tired of hauling around some rock blocks to soften the ride so I finally got around to taking out the third from the top spring (originally 4th from the top). I was able to achieve this by just dropping the shackle end and unbolting, etc...
Here's the spring leaf uninstalled. It's now labeled and placed next to the other long leaf stored for future use if needed.
This is what they look like now after adding back the two lower leafs and removing the third (fourth) leaf...
I'll let you know if it makes much of a difference once I've got a few miles on it.
As I suspected, the two lowest leafs are really only for heavy loads so taking those out previously was a waste of time. I've been tired of hauling around some rock blocks to soften the ride so I finally got around to taking out the third from the top spring (originally 4th from the top). I was able to achieve this by just dropping the shackle end and unbolting, etc...
Here's the spring leaf uninstalled. It's now labeled and placed next to the other long leaf stored for future use if needed.
This is what they look like now after adding back the two lower leafs and removing the third (fourth) leaf...
I'll let you know if it makes much of a difference once I've got a few miles on it.
Last edited:
