If the factory manual didn't say to then don't., my thought. You probably will be pulling the head again anyway when the great new compression you have will cause blow by. 
Just get her drivable (7 Viewers)
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Auto parts store sealer works fine for me, Toyota probably has something similar in a red tube .
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- #463
I guess sealant won't hurt. Just odd that mine have evidence of it (factory) but the FSM does not mention it (I'm referencing a 1980 FSM, but mine is a 1977). Seems like that omission would lead to problems!
And not gonna pull the pistons, rings, and crank bearings now. Thousands of HG replacement write ups here on MUD and very few go that deep unless absolutely necessary.
If it blows up after this, V8 time.
And not gonna pull the pistons, rings, and crank bearings now. Thousands of HG replacement write ups here on MUD and very few go that deep unless absolutely necessary.
If it blows up after this, V8 time.
I didn't put sealant in mine. yeah If you were not burning copious amounts of oil I would not go further to be honest. The head turned out looking good! Just make sure you order the toyota head gasket. it is the best. I made the mistake of not using a toyota one (I used first a ITM brand one) and the head gasket went and I did the job 2 times in a year. I think I am going to try and do a 1kz swap if mine ever blows up. I think It would fit nicely in the fj55!
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
FSM doesn't mention thread sealant for the differential studs but they come with it preinstalled. Forgive my ignorance but which bolt(s) exactly are you asking about?
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
- Thread starter
- #468
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Well as an example there are two of these bolts and they don't appear to come with thread sealant:
[td]13951A[/td][td]BOLT(FOR ROCKER SUPPORT SET)[/td]
And there are 4 of these. Maybe that's thread sealant on the bottom threads of the stud but I don't think so.
[td]13951C[/td][td]BOLT, STUD(FOR ROCKER SUPPORT)[/td]
The balance of the bolts are one of two different part numbers (both listed and I don't know the difference - maybe different across years?). Both are showing NLA from Toyota but there seems to be aftermarket support. FWIW, those two part numbers are 90101-08049 and 91112-70875.
| 90910-01006 | 2 |
And there are 4 of these. Maybe that's thread sealant on the bottom threads of the stud but I don't think so.
| 13994-60010 | 4 |
The balance of the bolts are one of two different part numbers (both listed and I don't know the difference - maybe different across years?). Both are showing NLA from Toyota but there seems to be aftermarket support. FWIW, those two part numbers are 90101-08049 and 91112-70875.
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Id use air to see weather the holes have an exit.
If they hold air pressure, then no sealant required.
You can also put air into the oil galley and see of it comes out the holes but from memory oil had its own drilled passage between 2 of the bolts or maybe there's a little copper line depending on the year of your engine...
I can remember precious little information so I rely on simple procedures to cover for my piss poor memory.
Air is your friend here...
If they hold air pressure, then no sealant required.
You can also put air into the oil galley and see of it comes out the holes but from memory oil had its own drilled passage between 2 of the bolts or maybe there's a little copper line depending on the year of your engine...
I can remember precious little information so I rely on simple procedures to cover for my piss poor memory.
Air is your friend here...
- Thread starter
- #471
great idea! will do!
Also:
I always clean the bolt holes out really good prior to reassembly especially the head bolt holes. Ive cleaned lots of gunk out of them by running a tap down em to chase the threads then slurping them out with a shop vac and magnet.
If your bolt bottoms out on crud you can torque it, think its tight and not actually have it applying its full force to the cylinder head in a downward direction.
Takes 20 minutes but nobody ever lost a race because their engine was too clean.
I always clean the bolt holes out really good prior to reassembly especially the head bolt holes. Ive cleaned lots of gunk out of them by running a tap down em to chase the threads then slurping them out with a shop vac and magnet.
If your bolt bottoms out on crud you can torque it, think its tight and not actually have it applying its full force to the cylinder head in a downward direction.
Takes 20 minutes but nobody ever lost a race because their engine was too clean.
