What do these shims look like and where do they go? I installed a OME lift on my jeep and had to lower the transfer case. I just picked up a 1995 LC and plan on ordering the OME 3" lift. was hoping to get all necessary parts at the same time. Thanks for your help
Just finished my OME lift install. Need help diagnosing new vibration
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That's not the problem. I've never heard of this being necessary on an OME lift on a 60 series cruiser.
Here's what I would do:
Remove the zirk for the slip joint. If that had too much grease in it that could be a culpret.
Lube the u-joints, thoroughly.
If neither of those make a difference, then remove the rear drive-shaft, and drive it in front wheel drive.
While the DS is out, check for play at the rear pinion, and the transfer case output.
If removing the DS made the problem go away, and both the transfer case output and pinion are ok, then you could install shims to level the rear diff or replace the ujoints. Personally, I'd replace the ujoints. They are a wear item anyway, and most OME suspension installs don't require shims in the rear. Besides, once the DS is out, replacing the ujoints is pretty easy - and if you don't want to do it any decent driveline shop can bang it out (and balance it) in half a day or less.
Good luck
Do you mean a 1985? The 95 LC has coil spring suspension, no shims can be used.
If you have an 85, it's extremely unlikely you'll need shims for the rear, though it's possible you'll need them for the front. I would do the install w/out front shims, then add them if you need more caster. If you do need them, use steel ones, not the aluminum ones.
i have the 95, I'm just a little gun shy from previous issues and just wanted your 2cents
i had this happen with the same lift. i did have man a fre schackles though which were a little longer than OME. i had to correct pinion angles. over the next couple years however as things settled i found i had to take the shims out of the back and now vibration is gone. it may take some time for your springs to settle a little to get your pinion angles into the right position. i didn't change anything else so i'm sure it was the shims
- Thread starter
- #27
Update: So, I replaced my u-joints and the vibration I had is gone, however a new one that sets in around 55-60 mph and gets more extreme as I make my way to 80 mph has taken its place. What do y'all think? Driveshaft balance maybe?
Anyone have a good method for balancing it on the truck without special equipment?
Anyone have a good method for balancing it on the truck without special equipment?
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- #29
Well, I decided to drop my driveshaft as advised and ride her around in front wheel drive. Sure enough, no vibrations. Definitely a rear driveshaft issue.
While it was off I removed the slip joint zirk and tried my best to get some motion in the slip joint. NADA!
30 minutes of pounding later I got it apart to reveal spline damage that was binding it up. A symptom of running it dry I suppose?
I also noticed one of my brand new u-joints is broken!!! The little flange that holds one of the cap clips in place sheared right off so the clip was pushing off the rubber boot that covers the bearing. So pissed. Makes me wonder if the u-joints they put in were even OEM. I sure did ask and pay for OEM. They are stamped USA which was a bit strange.
Anyway, what does one do about damaged slip joint splines that don't allow the slip joint to move freely? Scrap the driveshaft? SOR wants almost $400 for a used one.
While it was off I removed the slip joint zirk and tried my best to get some motion in the slip joint. NADA!
30 minutes of pounding later I got it apart to reveal spline damage that was binding it up. A symptom of running it dry I suppose?
I also noticed one of my brand new u-joints is broken!!! The little flange that holds one of the cap clips in place sheared right off so the clip was pushing off the rubber boot that covers the bearing. So pissed. Makes me wonder if the u-joints they put in were even OEM. I sure did ask and pay for OEM. They are stamped USA which was a bit strange.
Anyway, what does one do about damaged slip joint splines that don't allow the slip joint to move freely? Scrap the driveshaft? SOR wants almost $400 for a used one.
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- #33
It's was K&H imports in the LA area (Canoga park). Landcruiser specialists. They basically said they replaced my u-joints with oem replacements ($90 each) and over $100 for the install. They told me at that point that they had taken the slip joint apart, cleaned it, and greased it and that my driveshaft was too long and needed to be trimmed. They said they could put it back on but that it was too tight. It seems clear now that they probably didn't take the slip joint apart at all.
I'm quite bummed. Richard, who used to run this place was a wizard. He had a stroke and one of his mechanics seems to have taken over.
I'm quite bummed. Richard, who used to run this place was a wizard. He had a stroke and one of his mechanics seems to have taken over.
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- #35
Thanks Davaa. There are about 7 or 8 splines in similar shape. I've been filing for an hour. Will keep at it. Fingers crossed.
Anyone know if that U-Joint is OEM? If not I'm going to raise some hell. The only other part I can find with a similar USA stamp is NOT OEM.
Anyone know if that U-Joint is OEM? If not I'm going to raise some hell. The only other part I can find with a similar USA stamp is NOT OEM.
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- #37
Thats what I was thinking red66toy.
Update: I filed for a bit longer and managed to get it to slide on pretty smoothly! Cleaned out all the old thick grease as best I could, lubed it up with red mobile synthetic grease (hope that was the right stuff) and it slid right on. Climbed under the truck, and BOOM! It fit right in place without any tension. It is definitely within about 1/8" of the limit of its travel, but it isn't putting pressure on my transfer case when the truck is sitting on the ground.
I should also mention that there was a TON of caked on grease/dirt on the driveshaft. 242k miles worth im sure. Almost 1/8" thick at spots. I scraped off a lot of it but not all. When I just took it for a test drive, the vibration was definitely reduced. My theory is that all that caked on crap may have been throwing off its balance. Tomorrow I'll clean off the rest really thoroughly and report back. Fingers crossed it brings things back into balance.
Now I just have to ride up to that shop and either get a refund or make them put true OEM u-joints on while I sit there and watch. For my fellow K&H patrons, I'm sorry to say I no longer hold them in the acclaim that I used to. Richard was the man. He was a wealth of knowledge and very honest and fair. Can't say so much for the new management.
Update: I filed for a bit longer and managed to get it to slide on pretty smoothly! Cleaned out all the old thick grease as best I could, lubed it up with red mobile synthetic grease (hope that was the right stuff) and it slid right on. Climbed under the truck, and BOOM! It fit right in place without any tension. It is definitely within about 1/8" of the limit of its travel, but it isn't putting pressure on my transfer case when the truck is sitting on the ground.
I should also mention that there was a TON of caked on grease/dirt on the driveshaft. 242k miles worth im sure. Almost 1/8" thick at spots. I scraped off a lot of it but not all. When I just took it for a test drive, the vibration was definitely reduced. My theory is that all that caked on crap may have been throwing off its balance. Tomorrow I'll clean off the rest really thoroughly and report back. Fingers crossed it brings things back into balance.
Now I just have to ride up to that shop and either get a refund or make them put true OEM u-joints on while I sit there and watch. For my fellow K&H patrons, I'm sorry to say I no longer hold them in the acclaim that I used to. Richard was the man. He was a wealth of knowledge and very honest and fair. Can't say so much for the new management.
From what I gather, many folks get bad vibes after lifting their 80 series. Castor correction plates are usually called for.
They look like NAPA U joints, which aren't bad. Unless you specified to replace only with OEM, I wouldn't expect them to.
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- #40
89GASHOG, I did specify OEM. Debated getting the cheaper aftermarket joints but we decided on OEM and they charged me accordingly. Either way, they straight up broke within a few hundred miles so I'd advise staying away from them, whatever they are.
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