Just Differentials 99 Land Cruiser UZJ100 Build Thread

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A few pics form a recent trip to 100's in the Hills from WA State to Ouray, CO. 1 Dad, 2 kids, 1 Landcruiser & Rooftop tent, 2700 miles, 6 days! Got stuck in the sand 1 hour into the trip when dad decided the dunes would be a good place for a "quick" potty stop....

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^^That pic is exactly where the Jeep rolled this summer. Who is that superb spotter ensuring a safe line through such a treacherous section of trail? ;) #safetythird
 
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^^That pic is exactly where the Jeep rolled this summer. Who is that superb spotter ensuring a safe line through such a treacherous section of trail? ;) #nitrogear
Thanks stan!
 
How's the ride? Anything you would do differently?
 
What extra maintenance do the uni ball uppers require to keep them quiet when compared to the SPC upper?
 
NITRO and Just Differentials have been huge supporters of 100s in the Hills and you can not only share the trail with them, but you can get an up close look at all their great products for the 100 Series. We're lucky to have Carl as a 100 Series owner and participant of this forum.
 
100 Series Super Deluxe Suspension Kit with Icon extended Shocks and Ball joint UCA's Click

The uniball type were very good, there was a general perception that they required maintenance, and that the 100 series crowd being more into oem like components. For this reason, we redesigned them to use a ball joint. I've run the prototypes for 3 years with no servicing, other than normal preventative grease,as the upper bushings and the ball joints are greasable.
JTOTLC100-SUPDLX (3).webp

short-comings of OEM 100 Series IFS:
In 1998 Toyota released the all new 100 series Land Cruiser to replace its solid axle 80 series models. While providing a much smoother ride and better handling on the road, the IFS proved to be very limited in suspension travel. Most lift kits for the IFS setup simply raise the front end by means of adjusting/replacing the torsion bars which actually reduces overall down-travel. This is the result of aftermarket suspension kits only utilizing stock length shocks.

Driving over rough roads and potholes compounds this problem as the pre-loaded suspension, with fully extend shocks, has no more room for shock travel resulting in poor ride quality and premature shock failure. The only way to improve suspension travel is to run longer than stock shocks. The factory upper control arms also become a limiter as they will contact the shock body if using longer shocks. With a raised suspension height, the OEM upper ball-joint is forced to operate at an extreme angle and wider tires many times will not clear the factory upper control arms. The OEM ball-joint also has a potential to separate if a stock length shock were to break, leading to catastrophic failure of suspension, steering, and CV axle. Also, The OEM upper Ball joint is not sold separately so you must buy the whole arms, which cost more than the pair of heavy duty extended travel Ball-joint type arms available here. As an added benefit our arms accept the Tundra type ball joint (as they are more common), they can be replaced with joints available at nearly any auto part store.

The Solution:
- To solve the extreme ball joint angle of the stock arms the ball-joint cup is clocked to run level on vehicles with 2-3" additional ride height.
- With the proper shock setup, this allows up to 50% increase in down travel over suspension kits that use stock length shocks.
- The arms are 100% BOLT-ON and fit in the stock tapered ball-joint location in spindle. That's right no drilling, no welding, no tapping. Arms allow for proper alignment.
- They are also fully serviceable, as the bushings and ball-joints can easily be replaced. The ball joints and upper bushings include zerk fittings for quiet squeak-free operation.
- Made in USA, TIG Welded, Chromoly DOM tubing for strength versus the flimsy OEM stamped steel arms.
- This design allows for a lower profile, thus providing additional clearance for larger tires, and/or larger/ longer shocks.
- NEW!! The arms utilize a sealed 2007+ Tundra type upper ball joint, making the replacements readily available at regular auto part stores.

What extra maintenance do the uni ball uppers require to keep them quiet when compared to the SPC upper?
 
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The ride is amazing! Works great as a daily kid hauler / grocery getter, and rides better on the washboard than any other vehicle I've owned. I dont think I'd do anything differently, its pretty dialed in!
How's the ride? Anything you would do differently?
 
I'm contemplating doing some suspension upgrades to handle the seemingly endless washboard roads in Death Valley. I can't justify the scratch to go $3,100 all in on the Super Deluxe kit so I'd like your opinion on a revision of the kit using your parts.

My setup is simple, usually I only do one or two night trips. Truck is stock with 285/75r16. Rear stock e-locker and front ARB. 1999. No bumpers, no roof rack, just 2 dogs, tent, cooler, coleman stove/lantern, etc...

Right now the front torsion bars are adjusted to 21" from the center of the dust cap to fender. I may not be perfectly even side to side right now but I can fix that.

My thoughts are this:
1. Diff drop
2. Another 1" of torsion bar adjustment/reindex to get about 22" from hub to fender
3. Icon front shocks with reservoir to help with the washboards.
4. UCAs with the ball joint or uniball, I don't care either way if the uniballs are quiet
5. 1" spacer for rear springs

The only thing I can think I'm missing is rear shocks...I think it's $2k just for the Icon stage 2 shock set front and rear but I was hoping to not have to drop the $$ at one time even if it is a tad pricier to do it in stages.

Eventually I'd like to run 35" tires on 315/75r16 as I like the sidewall in that size vs the 18" rim and shorter sidwall. I think it's easier to do 285/75r18 on the 100 series so that might be what I have to do...and along with that goes the regear....damn it never ends.
 
This wouldnt be a bad way to go. If remote res are beyond your budget The stage 1 setup is still very good and has 2.5" diameter front shocks and 2.0 rear. With the UCA's and longer shocks you till get the huge benefit of the increased droop and reduced preload at droop. Email us and we can put together a custom package to suit your budget.

I'm contemplating doing some suspension upgrades to handle the seemingly endless washboard roads in Death Valley. I can't justify the scratch to go $3,100 all in on the Super Deluxe kit so I'd like your opinion on a revision of the kit using your parts.

My setup is simple, usually I only do one or two night trips. Truck is stock with 285/75r16. Rear stock e-locker and front ARB. 1999. No bumpers, no roof rack, just 2 dogs, tent, cooler, coleman stove/lantern, etc...

Right now the front torsion bars are adjusted to 21" from the center of the dust cap to fender. I may not be perfectly even side to side right now but I can fix that.

My thoughts are this:
1. Diff drop
2. Another 1" of torsion bar adjustment/reindex to get about 22" from hub to fender
3. Icon front shocks with reservoir to help with the washboards.
4. UCAs with the ball joint or uniball, I don't care either way if the uniballs are quiet
5. 1" spacer for rear springs

The only thing I can think I'm missing is rear shocks...I think it's $2k just for the Icon stage 2 shock set front and rear but I was hoping to not have to drop the $$ at one time even if it is a tad pricier to do it in stages.

Eventually I'd like to run 35" tires on 315/75r16 as I like the sidewall in that size vs the 18" rim and shorter sidwall. I think it's easier to do 285/75r18 on the 100 series so that might be what I have to do...and along with that goes the regear....damn it never ends.
 
What's your setup?
My setup currently is a 1999 LC
OME torsion bars, 860 springs, diff drop and Iron Man Foam Cell shocks., BIOR sliders and front bumper.

I've ordered the JT UCAs and Icon Stage 1 shocks
 

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