Builds JPs '74 Resto-Mutt (1 Viewer)

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HogGuy,
I am enjoying your build thread, thanks for all the pics! You are inspiring me to do my own bodywork.
If you don't mind my asking, why are you switching your power steering from mini truck? I am planning to do the minitruck, and run skinny tires. If the mini truck did not work for you, I may go another route.
If it did work,I would be interested in your mini truck gearbox if it is good, and you want to get rid of it.
Frank
 
Keep in mind their is a difference between tie rod ends and drag link ends. Drag link ends have considerable more flex that tre.

Thanks...the biggest difference is that the tie rods are 23mm and the drag link ends are 21mm.
 
HogGuy,
I am enjoying your build thread, thanks for all the pics! You are inspiring me to do my own bodywork.
If you don't mind my asking, why are you switching your power steering from mini truck? I am planning to do the minitruck, and run skinny tires. If the mini truck did not work for you, I may go another route.
If it did work,I would be interested in your mini truck gearbox if it is good, and you want to get rid of it.
Frank

Frank - I’m upgrading to the 80 gear box for more power and to eliminate the steering links that run along the drivers side frame rail. This will help remove any slop in the steering (although I have very little). I’m running 35X12.5” tires and the mini truck box turns them just fine, but the tire rubs on the steering link at left lock. I’ll send you a PM on the mini truck box. - Justin
 
Also received the flat pitman arm and 80 TRE today.

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Confirmed that the drag link rod I received is tapped backwards on both ends as this is LH threaded and didn't work either.
 
Picked up the MT cage at lunch today from the powder coater. Chatted with the owner for half an hour and I’ll definitely be taking my frame and maybe even the body here at some point. I thought it was pretty reasonable as he charged $200 to sand blast and powder the cage and it looks fantastic.


Almost too nice for my 40.
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With the help of my wife and buddy we got the cage back in the 40.

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Turned it around in the garage so I can start working on the 80 steering conversion.

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Did you order the 24" or 36" telescopic shaft from Borgeson?
 
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Started busting out the old stuff...and it fought back.

New rods are way beefier than the old set. Got the center arm off, but ended up cutting the steering shock off.
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Got the bushings driven out of the steering arms and the new 60 TREs mocked up.

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Unfortunately I’m not getting enough thread engagement (at least to my liking; less than 7/8”) with the tie rod. I’m going to ask IPOR for one that is 1” longer that’ll give me another 1/2” engagement on each side. Toe in was also checked and was roughly where it needs to be.

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Next up I’ll be pulling my mini truck box and side drag link out and getting the new steering shafts in place.
 
Thanks for the information. Build is looking good!
 
Question on your rear seats. What are they and any plans to run 3 point belts for your kids? Im trying to find a good option for shoulder belts.
 
Question on your rear seats. What are they and any plans to run 3 point belts for your kids? Im trying to find a good option for shoulder belts.

@Varty Yo - Not sure if you saw the link I posted in the other thread, but more details here:

Pictures of your front seats on your FJ40

As for seatbelt options. At this point my boys are 3 and 1 so I plan on welding some anchor points to strap in car seats. I haven’t put too much thought into rear 3-pt belts yet.
 
Yes i saw that. My 1 girl is almost 3 and the other isnt born yet haha. Planning ahead i guess. I think the best bet is a anchor point to roll bar even though i dont really trust it. Cage might be best bet in the future
 
Big shout out to Lance at IPOR. I have to say I’m more than impressed with their customer service. They not only fixed the drag link with the backwards threads, but also sent me a longer tie rod after I shared my concern with thread engagement. Always amazed at how helpful the cruiser community is, especially all of the vendors.

Way better thread engagement now with the tie rod.
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Now that I can thread all of the linkages together I started to mock up placement.
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Tomorrow the plan is to cut the fender and get the 80 box mocked up so I can weld in the frame plate.
 
Finally over the flu and started working on the 40.

I got all of the old stuff out (and sold).
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Now I know what Cheryl Crow was singing about. That first cut was painful to make on the NOS fender. I clamped a piece of flat stock to bender the flap out.

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Once I get the box mounted I plan to weld some metal in the front and use the flap to cover the gearbox.

Started making the relief cuts on the shock tower for the box and my grinding disc was too worn down. I thought...no problem...I’ll just grab a new one out of the tool cabinet. Completely out...Efff. Go figure it happens when the wife is gone and the kids are upstairs asleep. So much for anymore progress today.

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And of course the sticker has to be right in the area I’m hacking up just as a reminder.

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Life and work got in the way, but I did get some time to work on the 40 today. The warmer weather has me wanting to drive this thing so I better get after it.

I started clearancing the shock tower and also the radiator frame. Once I get everything in place I’ll box in the radiator frame.
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Almost have the box in place.

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Tomorrow I’ll see if I can find anywhere open that has 1/4” plate so I can make a scab plate between the box and the frame.

Also picked up a family bikini top to go over the new cage.
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Hopefully more progress tomorrow.
 
Can’t seem to find enough free time as of late. Busy working on yard projects and changed out all three of my 1960s toilets for some up to date stuff and tackling rerunning some copper water lines.

Working on cleaning up a big section of woods that was just logs and undergrowth. No telling how many wheelbarrow loads of rocks and planting grass.
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Did more grinding on the radiator housing. I’ll definitely need to weld more meat into the portion I cut out as there’s not much left after removing enough to get the box flush to the frame.
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Test fit the steering shaft and U-joints. The set screw barely clears the shock tower.
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Next up to drain the radiator and pull everything out so I can weld in the frame plate.
 

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