That light is really close to the steering box, I would flex it out and check for interference and maybe grind the steering box a little. When you are offroad, chassis flex may make that light hit the PS box. Really nice work.
Builds JPs '74 Resto-Mutt
- Thread starter 74HogGuy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #222
Thanks, that’s a good idea. I’ll jack up the drivers side tomorrow and see what it looks like.
- Thread starter
- #223
Got the rods and ends painted today with chassis paint. Everything is now coated in anti-seize and buttoned up.
Now to get my coolant filled back up and the power steering pumped connected and filled.
Now to get my coolant filled back up and the power steering pumped connected and filled.
- Thread starter
- #224
Got everything bolted back together and filled all of the fluids back up and took it for a rip.
Still have some wrinkles to iron out. I have more right turn than left even though I aligned the pitman arm markings to the sector shaft marking. I adjusted the steering stops all the way in so I may just need to move the pitman arm.
Per @White Stripe, I flex her out both ways to check the interference with the bib light and happy to report all is well there.
Excited to drive this thing around town now that all of the steering slop
is gone and I have 4-wheel disc brakes.
Next up: Alignment Shop.
Still have some wrinkles to iron out. I have more right turn than left even though I aligned the pitman arm markings to the sector shaft marking. I adjusted the steering stops all the way in so I may just need to move the pitman arm.
Per @White Stripe, I flex her out both ways to check the interference with the bib light and happy to report all is well there.
Excited to drive this thing around town now that all of the steering slop
is gone and I have 4-wheel disc brakes.
Next up: Alignment Shop.
I did the 80 box as well, it’s amazing how much better it feels. The old set up was tired.
- Thread starter
- #226
So after getting some inspiration reading through @UZJ40 thread I decided to pull the trigger and order the full Delphi weather pack connector set.
My harness has been hacked up by previous owners so I need to take some time to clean up the wiring.
Starting will be all of the lights front to back:
Crimping tool is super simple to use and makes excellent crimps.
Plan to paint the exterior of all of the housings and use wire sheathing to keep everything organized.
My harness has been hacked up by previous owners so I need to take some time to clean up the wiring.
Starting will be all of the lights front to back:
Crimping tool is super simple to use and makes excellent crimps.
Plan to paint the exterior of all of the housings and use wire sheathing to keep everything organized.
Out of curiosity...which Delphi kit did you go with?
- Thread starter
- #228
Don't choke...https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Weath...F8&qid=1535857824&sr=8-15&keywords=delphi+kit
I thought about buying the crimping tools separately. The ratcheting crimper is $106 on amazon and the connectors run about $6 each. This kit should cover multiple vehicles from what I've read.
Aside from material cost, I would be interested in the time involved. AND can a 
mechanic do this?
mechanic do this?
- Thread starter
- #231
@tstepp920 - I consider myself a 1/2 mechanic tops!
I’d say that it takes me 5-10 minutes for each connection/light because I’m slow and anal. You want to make sure your sequencing everything right and not forgetting to slide some heat shrink tape before you put ends on.
First I remove all of the old covers etc and cut the wires to the same length. Then I slide 2-pieces of heat shrink over the braided sleeve one to clean up each end.
Then the weather seals go on with the ends lining up at the end of the wire insulation.
The beauty of spending the money on the right tool. The ratcheting crumpet has a guide that you slide the pin into.
From here just make sure the big tabs are over the weather seal and the wire is laying correctly in the pin.
Then crimp!
mechanic tops!I’d say that it takes me 5-10 minutes for each connection/light because I’m slow and anal. You want to make sure your sequencing everything right and not forgetting to slide some heat shrink tape before you put ends on.
First I remove all of the old covers etc and cut the wires to the same length. Then I slide 2-pieces of heat shrink over the braided sleeve one to clean up each end.
Then the weather seals go on with the ends lining up at the end of the wire insulation.
The beauty of spending the money on the right tool. The ratcheting crumpet has a guide that you slide the pin into.
From here just make sure the big tabs are over the weather seal and the wire is laying correctly in the pin.
Then crimp!
- Thread starter
- #232
Next you just push the pins into the connector and then close the cover.
After that I pull the sleeving where I want it and shrink the heat shrink.
Overall pretty painless. And nice because you can do it in the comfort of AC when it’s 90+ in the garage.
After that I pull the sleeving where I want it and shrink the heat shrink.
Overall pretty painless. And nice because you can do it in the comfort of AC when it’s 90+ in the garage.
- Thread starter
- #233
Busy day today! Did some lake time and fishing with my boys and in-laws.
Picked up a new bed for my little one. He’s super stoked to graduate from the crib.
And knocked out all of the front lights.
Picked up a new bed for my little one. He’s super stoked to graduate from the crib.
And knocked out all of the front lights.
- Thread starter
- #234
I shouldn’t be this excited, but for the first time since I’ve pieced together the front lights over the years this is the first time they’ve worked.
Cut back all of the electrical tape to uncover a goopy mess. As you can see some P.O. spliced in multiple colors of wiring. I used the multimeter to figure out which was which and spliced in as needed.
Pleased to say everything worked great up front!
I was going to post a thread to see if anyone wanted to take a guess what this coiled up roll was. It also sparked when touching bare metal letting me know quickly they were hot even though everything was off. Ironically I didn’t have brake lights and when I searched under the dash to check the brake switch, I found this wire spliced in. Turns out my brake switch is stuck in the on position unless you physically pull up on the brake pedal. It’s at least now wired into the rear harness correctly, but added to the list of being fixed properly.
Cut back all of the electrical tape to uncover a goopy mess. As you can see some P.O. spliced in multiple colors of wiring. I used the multimeter to figure out which was which and spliced in as needed.
Pleased to say everything worked great up front!
I was going to post a thread to see if anyone wanted to take a guess what this coiled up roll was. It also sparked when touching bare metal letting me know quickly they were hot even though everything was off. Ironically I didn’t have brake lights and when I searched under the dash to check the brake switch, I found this wire spliced in. Turns out my brake switch is stuck in the on position unless you physically pull up on the brake pedal. It’s at least now wired into the rear harness correctly, but added to the list of being fixed properly.
- Thread starter
- #235
Sadly it’s been WAY to long since the last update. Life has been in the way of the cruiser.
I’ve spent this spring laying 300+ sq ft of 3x8 Brazilian black slate in a herringbone pattern from our front door to our back door and a half bathroom. Still have grouting and ceiling to go!
On top of that we had our upstairs HVAC replaced including all of the ductwork. We had one of those “while you’re at it moments” and decided to also have air run to our UNFINISHED walk-in attic. So needless to say there has been some late nights.
Not all has been work though. Did get a chance to squeeze in a kidless vacation for the first time in ages for our 10 year anniversary.
I’ve spent this spring laying 300+ sq ft of 3x8 Brazilian black slate in a herringbone pattern from our front door to our back door and a half bathroom. Still have grouting and ceiling to go!
On top of that we had our upstairs HVAC replaced including all of the ductwork. We had one of those “while you’re at it moments” and decided to also have air run to our UNFINISHED walk-in attic. So needless to say there has been some late nights.
Not all has been work though. Did get a chance to squeeze in a kidless vacation for the first time in ages for our 10 year anniversary.
- Thread starter
- #236
So on to the good stuff. I owe a HUGE thank you to @shmukster for shipping me a hood for my 40. This thing is immaculate. It’d almost make better wall art than a hood and I’m embarrassed to put something so nice on my 40.
Not only did Gary crate it up, he went above and beyond in securing everything nicely for the ride from PA to AR. I’m always continuously amazed at the awesome people on this forum!
Anyways...on to the eye candy:
Not only did Gary crate it up, he went above and beyond in securing everything nicely for the ride from PA to AR. I’m always continuously amazed at the awesome people on this forum!
Anyways...on to the eye candy:
Truly great build you have going!!!! Can’t wait to see the finished truck!
- Thread starter
- #238
Installed my new winch my wife got me a couple weeks ago.
- Thread starter
- #239
Finally took it out for a ride with my boys and then installed the new hood. Now I really have some hood alignment issues.
jim land
SILVER Star
You can play with the front fenders braces , adjustment is possible cause the holes are slotted , this could help a little
