Builds JPs '74 Resto-Mutt
- Thread starter 74HogGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #202
Deluxe $pector off-road family summer top. I liked the idea of the mesh roof to keep the top from bubbling up. My last top bubbled up like crazy going down the interstate.
Page 272 Land Cruiser Family & Extreme Plus Summer Tops
I'm a tad curious, and maybe it's just me. How do you get that spare way up there onto the carrier? I'm way to brittle to lift that high anymore.
Can you ever be done?? My truck isn't done; I am. Sigh.
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- #205
Luckily I'm still young and dumb enough to throw it up there. Better than those guys that keep the spares up on the roof rack!
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- #206
No fancy tools...just chipping away with my HF die grinder cutting wheel and HF grinding stones. Also have the Iron Pig bracket in place. Just need to open the holes up a little more so the plate will sit flush.
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- #207
Welp....I’m a dumb a#%....
A lot of time spent grinding away to allow the sleeves to slide into the frame. After trying to figure out a clever way to mark the holes to drill I realized that the sleeves were way to short to make contact on the outside portion of the frame.
Turns out that IPOR intends for you to fully cut out the entire inside portion of the frame and this bracket isn’t meant to overlap the existing portion of inside frame. Seems like a stronger design would have been making the sleeves longer, but that’s probably just lead to another area for rust to grow.
I guess it’s back to cutting...
A lot of time spent grinding away to allow the sleeves to slide into the frame. After trying to figure out a clever way to mark the holes to drill I realized that the sleeves were way to short to make contact on the outside portion of the frame.
Turns out that IPOR intends for you to fully cut out the entire inside portion of the frame and this bracket isn’t meant to overlap the existing portion of inside frame. Seems like a stronger design would have been making the sleeves longer, but that’s probably just lead to another area for rust to grow.
I guess it’s back to cutting...
- Thread starter
- #208
Using the printed template I got the holes drilled for the box. I taped the template in place and then clamped the gear box to the frame to help guide the bit.
Started cutting away the inside of the frame rail. Still have a little more to clean up before the plate sits flush, but it’s getting close.
Started cutting away the inside of the frame rail. Still have a little more to clean up before the plate sits flush, but it’s getting close.
- Thread starter
- #209
Got the mounting plate in and mocked up the box. I’ll be ready to burn in everything this weekend. Finally seeing some light at the end of the tunnel.
Now that the box is in place, I’m thinking about welding more material here. I initially ground it down per the instructions, but maybe this isn’t as drastic for the 80 box vs the 60 box in the last picture.
Now that the box is in place, I’m thinking about welding more material here. I initially ground it down per the instructions, but maybe this isn’t as drastic for the 80 box vs the 60 box in the last picture.
- Thread starter
- #210
Got the frame plate welded in today then did some grinding to blend everything in...not perfect, but the box will be hiding it.
Got the old rag joint end cut off and installed the Downey steering shaft support. Took more effort than expected working it down the steering shaft with a BFH and a brass drift.
Tomorrow need to work on shortening the column stub a bit more and welding on the Borgeson joint. I may also have to shorten the collapsible shaft an inch or so.
Got the old rag joint end cut off and installed the Downey steering shaft support. Took more effort than expected working it down the steering shaft with a BFH and a brass drift.
Tomorrow need to work on shortening the column stub a bit more and welding on the Borgeson joint. I may also have to shorten the collapsible shaft an inch or so.
- Thread starter
- #211
Bent up some metal and boxed in the section of radiator frame that I cut out. Not perfect, but it’ll do.
Little chassis paint and maybe I’ll finally get to start putting this project back together.
Little chassis paint and maybe I’ll finally get to start putting this project back together.
- Thread starter
- #212
Used a hose clamp to cut my telescoping shaft to length. Good to get a nice square cut when you don’t own a chop saw.
Also per the advice on MUD I decided to weld the u-joint to the steering column. Not the prettiest as I’d do a small stitch then immediately put a cold wet rag on the u-joint to cool things down to prevent any damage.
Also per the advice on MUD I decided to weld the u-joint to the steering column. Not the prettiest as I’d do a small stitch then immediately put a cold wet rag on the u-joint to cool things down to prevent any damage.
- Thread starter
- #213
Working on getting my drivers side fender back on and trying to massage it around the gear box.
While in the process I found another problem...the 80 box now occupies the space that the bib light is supposed to...
While in the process I found another problem...the 80 box now occupies the space that the bib light is supposed to...
- Thread starter
- #214
Well...progress WAS moving along well. Sent off my 80 box to West Texas Off-road a couple of weeks ago to be rebuilt and they informed me that the sector shaft was warped. Have been trying to chase down a replacement with no luck.
Got tipped off to upgrade to the 105 series sector shaft and pitman arm so after some chasing I have them coming in from Japan. The 105 sector is beefier and doesn’t taper at the pitman. The pitman arm has the same taper to bolt directly up to 80 series TRE.
Part numbers for those ever looking:
105 series Sector Shaft 44111-60060
105 series Pitman arm 45411-60360
Reading here:
And Next on the List: Rebuild PS Gear Box/New Sector Shaft/Pitman Arm
Fingers crossed I won’t have to change the custom drag link I had made.
Borrowed pic for reference:
Got tipped off to upgrade to the 105 series sector shaft and pitman arm so after some chasing I have them coming in from Japan. The 105 sector is beefier and doesn’t taper at the pitman. The pitman arm has the same taper to bolt directly up to 80 series TRE.
Part numbers for those ever looking:
105 series Sector Shaft 44111-60060
105 series Pitman arm 45411-60360
Reading here:
And Next on the List: Rebuild PS Gear Box/New Sector Shaft/Pitman Arm
Fingers crossed I won’t have to change the custom drag link I had made.
Borrowed pic for reference:
- Thread starter
- #215
So while I'm waiting for the sector shaft to come in and getting my box back from WTOR, I started tackling this bib light issue. Decided to inboard both lights 1/4" to clear the 80 box.
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Just finished reading through your entire thread, one of my favorite looking 40s on here. Motivating me to get rid of my sh*tty paint job, but still afraid to find out what lurks underneath 
- Thread starter
- #217
Got my box back from WTOR and got it mounted up. After deciding to upgrade to the 105 series sector shaft I also decided to have it ported and tapped for hydro assist. Just incase I decide to go that route in the future.
Unfortunately the 105 series pitman arm is an offset pitman arm and I couldn’t find any straight pitman arms that are on the market, so...my drag link was 2.5” too short.
I reached at to Bud Built to have a new one made.
Unfortunately the 105 series pitman arm is an offset pitman arm and I couldn’t find any straight pitman arms that are on the market, so...my drag link was 2.5” too short.
I reached at to Bud Built to have a new one made.
- Thread starter
- #218
I started working more on the bib light issue today. Even though I moved the lights over a 1/4” I was still having interference with a portion of the bib housing. Big thanks to @oregon fj for shipping me a old sacrificial housing I could do some testing on before cutting into the new OEM housings.
Welding on metal this thin was interesting...also used some of the old doner housing for material.
Not the best, but will suffice.
Coasted the area with weld thru primer for now.
And now the light fits!
Welding on metal this thin was interesting...also used some of the old doner housing for material.
Not the best, but will suffice.
Coasted the area with weld thru primer for now.
And now the light fits!
- Thread starter
- #219
Also luckily everything clears inside the housing as well.
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- #220
After some FedEx snafu’s my replacement drag link magically showed up on my doorstep although they claimed it was delivered on Tuesday.
Finally able to steer the crusier so tomorrow will begin the reassembly process.
Finally able to steer the crusier so tomorrow will begin the reassembly process.
