Japan meets America (Ls Swap) (12 Viewers)

[wiynwiyn]

Was reading about the how the evap system works on a Toyota website. My guess is the bottom hose on the canister is the breather hose, collects air. Don't see how the purge hose can't go into the intake manifold. However, it's concerning that engine may run rich with extra fuel fumes.

 

[ppc]

Was reading about the how the evap system works on a Toyota website. My guess is the bottom hose on the canister is the breather hose, collects air. Don't see how the purge hose can't go into the intake manifold. However, it's concerning that engine may run rich with extra fuel fumes.

The volume of fuel vapor coming from the charcoal conister is a small value compared to the volume of fuel injected into the engine. As long as the engine control systems are functioning properly the feedback loop will keep the rich/lean within proper ranges. The function of the O2 sensors is to provide data on rich/lean to the ECM which reduces/increases volume of fuel entering into engine irregardless of source of fuel, injection system or vapor canister.

Why does the vent line is open to air versus plumbed into the intake manifold. That line is safety valve to vent excess pressure/fuel when the engine is turned off, cause by overfilling/topping of the tank, or when the solenoid that does allow fuel vapors has failed. If it was vented to the intake instead of open air you are accumulating etc.passing fuel/vapor into the engine which will wash the cylinder walls of oil, seep past the piston rings into the sump. Not good for the longevity of the motor. Possible to cause an explosion when you turn the key to start the motor.

 

[NeverFinis]

Yes. As far as I know, the purge outlet on the evap canister is connected there. I would use it if possible.

My purge valve on my L96 is located on the side of the intake, and not on the top of the intake like yours.

 

[NeVrDun]

Not a fan of your fan shroud!

You've covered a lot of the core with what looks like a flat plate. You'll have significantly compromised airflow.

A single electric fan is questionable in the first place. Dual fans often shift more air, and give you more control.

Hope it works for you.

I also did a LS (LM7) swap and this is the fan shroud that I built for my dual fan set (ran off of three relays) and operated by the LS computer to kick into different speeds at a range of temperatures...
SPAL fans were used and aftermarket GM aluminum radiator.

 

[gnx7]

Nice work! I have been LS swapping tons of cars since 2004. This should be a super fun 80 series now.
I didn't see it mentioned... was the old 1FZ engine tired/not running when you pulled it?

 

[MMaxim]

Geeat work! Looks like we are in roughly the same spot with out swaps.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Thanks for the feedback gentlemen. The LC engine had a bad head gasket. Was close to 400k miles. I hear good things on the spa fans. Outstanding items: FYI, I had to hammered the Tranny pan because the driveaxle shaft was kissing it. Evap, install new tie rods (leaking). Bought 555, alignment. Here are a couple more photos of the exhausts.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Let's see what you guys think on resolving routing the evap purge hose to.
Method 1. Pictures on the left shows the damage evap. Attach the evap purge hose to the plastic pipe on the right? Psi harness doesn't provide a plug into the solenoid, so I believe it won't open since it's not electronically controlled. In this case this is pointless? It will be blocked. Fuel vapor wont go into the engine.
Method 2. Connect the purge hose to the location highlighted in red.
Method 3. Run the purge hose all the way back to the rear of the car. Seattle has no more smog test.
On the other hand, was surprised the hood closed with the evap solenoid sticking up so high. However, it touches the hood. I prefer method 2 or 3.

 

[NeverFinis]

I am not sure what I would do but capping might be the way to go, rather than piping it to the intake directly.

According the Toyota FSM, the purge line to the intake opens if RPM >3000 and engine temp >45°C (113°F)

There are some GM ECM checks that you will be missing by not having a ECM controlled Evap Purge valve. I found this list on another forum.

The PCM energizes the canister purge solenoid and allows vacuum to purge vapors from the canister under these conditions:

1. 150 seconds have elapsed since the PCM entered closed loop.
2. Coolant temperature is above 176 degrees F. (80 degrees C.).
3. When the PCM is not enabling injector shut-off, such as on vehicles with traction control while one drive wheel is spinning.
4. The idle contact switch in the IAC motor is open.
5. Vehicle speed is above 20 mph.
6. Engine speed is above 1,100 rpm.
7. The engine metal temperature sensor is not indicating excessive temperature.
8. Low coolant level is not indicated.

 

[wiynwiyn]

I am not sure what I would do but capping might be the way to go, rather than piping it to the intake directly.

According the Toyota FSM, the purge line to the intake opens if RPM >3000 and engine temp >45°C (113°F)

There are some GM ECM checks that you will be missing by not having a ECM controlled Evap Purge valve. I found this list on another forum.

Thanks Neverfinis as always. I will probably just cap it, easier solution. The fuel vapor will escape through the air intake bottom hose I believe if you cap the purge hose so I will extend the hose to the the rear with a filter.

 

[NeVrDun]

So not to add more confusion here..., but I went down the road of completely re-establishing all of the original GM Evap components. I can post a schematic that I created and some pictures if anyone wants or needs them.

 

[wiynwiyn]

So not to add more confusion here..., but I went down the road of completely re-establishing all of the original GM Evap components. I can post a schematic that I created and some pictures if anyone wants or needs them.

Myself and others will be very interested and appreciative. Whenever you have some free time. Now, I think I know why Neverfinis names himself "Neverfinis" This project seems to never finish; new things will come up. Joyful to learn new things though. Thanks

 

[NeVrDun]

Myself and others will be very interested and appreciative. Whenever you have some free time. Now, I think I know why Neverfinis names himself "Neverfinis" This project seems to never finish; new things will come up. Joyful to learn new things though. Thanks

Here is the GM Evap schematic that I found (from someone's website) and the sketches that I penciled down during my brain-storming sessions...

 

[NeVrDun]

Here is the GM Evap schematic that I found (from someone's website) and the sketches that I penciled down during my brain-storming sessions...

View attachment 3771316

View attachment 3771317

And here are some pictures of the:
Intake Purge Solenoid

The Charcoal Canister

And the EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid

 

[NeVrDun]

Let's see what you guys think on resolving routing the evap purge hose to.
Method 1. Pictures on the left shows the damage evap. Attach the evap purge hose to the plastic pipe on the right? Psi harness doesn't provide a plug into the solenoid, so I believe it won't open since it's not electronically controlled. In this case this is pointless? It will be blocked. Fuel vapor wont go into the engine.
Method 2. Connect the purge hose to the location highlighted in red.
Method 3. Run the purge hose all the way back to the rear of the car. Seattle has no more smog test.
On the other hand, was surprised the hood closed with the evap solenoid sticking up so high. However, it touches the hood. I prefer method 2 or 3.
View attachment 3771135

View attachment 3771144

Also, the port (circled in red in your picture) on the passenger side about half way back on the main plastic intake piece..., I have it capped for now. If and when I want to use a mechanical vacuum guage to monitor the engines performance - then I can plug into this port and see what the vacuum readings and behaviors are... Good for diagnosing gremlins that might find you in the future...

 

[White Stripe]

I have a fair amount of wiring info in my build thread.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Installed heavy springs in the front, medium in the rear. Somehow the rear passenger is an inch higher than the driver side rear. I’m pretty sure I measured the rear spring before I installed it. B spring (taller) on the driver side, A on the passenger. So I added 20mm(.75”) front spacers and 20mm on the driver rear, resulted an inch increase on both the rear sides. It’s going to by my daily driver, not planning to put a heavy metal rear bumper. It’s nice that both the fronts and the rear driver have 7 inches gap, but annoying that the rear passenger is 8 inch. *blue before spacers, *black after spacers. Tip I came up with is to use scissor jack to push out the axle to make room to put in the spring. After I filled up gas and drove the lc around a few days. Looks like the rear driver settles to 7 1/2" and the rear passenger settles to 7 3/4".

 

[wiynwiyn]

Strange. Drove the car around and the rear driver side raised up like 3/8". Now the gap in the fronts are 7", rear driver 7 3/8" and the rear passenger stays the same at 8". I guess when I load with gas and passenger the rear will drop. Wish the 8" is on the rear driver side.

 

[wiynwiyn]

Can someone please tell me if I ran these coolant hoses correctly? I could not find a clear picture from the search. Thanks

 

[ppc]

@wiynwiyn,

Time to replace your heater control valve. The discoloration indicates eminent failure. Just touching it could break it. All of those hoses look to be original and need replacement as well.