My little jack won’t lift the truck high enough to get the 33” tires off the ground lol, the jack stands are also not really tall enough. what do you all use?
Jack and stands recommendation for 100 series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LowDrag82
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
GTV
SILVER Star
The Daytona from Harbor Freight is actually a pretty good jack. It is very big and very heavy though.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Safe Jack - 4WD, Outdoor,Off road, 4X4 accessories and products. - https://safejacks.com/
Check out Safe Jacks. Not cheap but excellent stuff.
One wants to be safe when under a vehicle and or when changing a tire. They have stuff you can count on.
Check out Safe Jacks. Not cheap but excellent stuff.
One wants to be safe when under a vehicle and or when changing a tire. They have stuff you can count on.
Last edited:
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
What jack and stands to procure?
Thinking about a trip to Harbor Freight soon and was wondering if the collective knowledge of this group could point me towards the best bang for my buck floor jack and stands that would work with the LC100? I am not married to any specific retailer or brand but I want something safe and budget...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #5
You think this long reach 3T is good for lifting the 100 series? 3 Ton Long-Reach Low-Profile Professional Floor Jack with RAPID PUMP, Blue - https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-long-reach-low-profile-professional-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-blue-56641.html
jLB
Another one followed me home. Can we keep it?
Doesn’t @LandCruiserPhil have a solution for the factory jack?
sites.google.com
LCP - Jack Adapters
Check out the 3rd generation jack adapters we are currently selling with the zinc finish for long-lasting durability!
I’ve been on a hunt for the ideal jack and stands since i got my truck > 1yr ago. Currently using the jack that came with the truck + land cruiser phil’s adapter. Works to give it just that little bit extra i need to get off the bigger tires. I’m planning to go by a junk yard and grab a tundra jack and tool set for cheap when i have a little time so i don’t have to undo everything in the back of my truck so often.
- Thread starter
- #9
How big of tire are we talking about?
Don't overthink this. I've been using the lesser expensive aluminum race jacks and HB quality stands in full-time shops for over 20 years.
Only ever had one jack fail. It wasn't an all out failure but just a hyd oil leak from a failed oil seal that caused a slow drop.
The only thing that really fails on a jack are the seals which makes them easily rebuildable. I'd do a 6T stand just because of it's height. Any 6T steel stand will do.
You're not using full-time so shop wisely and buy what you need to get the job done. I'd get a bottle jack set-up in to keep in the truck incase you're in need of a roadside repair.
Only ever had one jack fail. It wasn't an all out failure but just a hyd oil leak from a failed oil seal that caused a slow drop.
The only thing that really fails on a jack are the seals which makes them easily rebuildable. I'd do a 6T stand just because of it's height. Any 6T steel stand will do.
You're not using full-time so shop wisely and buy what you need to get the job done. I'd get a bottle jack set-up in to keep in the truck incase you're in need of a roadside repair.
- Thread starter
- #11
It’s not the failure part, it’s that my existing Jack doesn’t raise high enough to get the tire off the ground, so I was asking for suggestions for one that would.
i use the hi-tech accessory.......a piece of wood 4x4 for jack duties.
- Thread starter
- #13
That was my idea as well and my friend said not to do that in case the wood splits apart
Really?
pressure treated 4x4 block has never given me any grief....sometimes i've slid a sold cement block under the jack
The rear is easy as any jack will do, if you lift from the pumpkin on the diff so you get no droop. The front you can lift from the bottom of the front lower control arms. You can always use a small wood block and lift from the center of the front k-member.
I've been using the Dayton 3 ton long reach, for a few years now. I chose it, for the extra lift. It works okay, but like most HF tools, not the best quality. In that will not hold vehicle up long, as it slowly creep down (leak down). This is likely due to pressure loose at O-rings, from low quality hydraulic fluid. But I get my jack-stand under the frame fast enough, so not a big deal. One day, I'll get around to flushing hydraulic fluid and add AT-205. I did this on my old Powerbuilt 30 year old floor-jack. Using Toyota AHC fluid and AT-205, just before I gave to a local mud member. It worked like new again!
I have used a 2x4 wood block (I use mostly oak blocks) under #2 crossmember, when #1 skid off. Even with high lift jack. Not only to spread the weight, but too protect #2 crossmember while getting vehicle to a height for jack-stands I like working at. But ,the long reach do lift most any configuration of LC/LX470, high enough without block to remove a tire and them some.
When just removing a tire. We only want enough lift, tire not touching ground. This make handle weight of tire much easier, for dismount & mount. With very heavy tire/wheel assemble. I use jack to adjust height of vehicle, bring down to tire from mounting. Which I've only had to do once, on 200 series. Its custom tire/wheel, must have been over 150LB each. Which were a beast to get on.
My primary 6 ton jack-stands @abuck99, gave me years ago. They're very cool. Not only because a gift from a friend. But they have auto lift shocks, in them. He worried I kill myself with my old reds, he may have been right. But word of caution; The older style ratcheting jack-stand, do not have safety locking pin. With these, we must make sure handle locks.
I've also a set of newer 12 ton jack-stand from HF. These, are also ratcheting. But have a safety lock pin. Apparently to many accidental collapses, with older style ratcheting self lock jack stands. The 12 ton, are heavy beast. They're used mostly for when I need to place jack-stands, in front of front tire or behind rear tires on frame. Also when I'm really looking for height and stability.
Today, I'm working on customizing my floor-jack. I'm adding a chunk of tire to a 8x10"jack saddle plate, I pick-up recently, form www.911motorsports.net
It used with the 911 floor jack extension pin, which replaces stock saddle. I was looking for extension to get front end high enough, to get tires more than 12" off the ground. So i can place RaceRamp under tires, for torqueing control arm bolts. I purchased an extension kit from 911 and a few accessories, last week. Which kit has a pin, square saddle, 6" extension and 11" extension. Accessories I pick-up are; a round saddle with 3 1/4" "Prothane" polyurethane pad, 8x10" saddle plate plus bracket to hold extension tubes on jack handle.
First use was with the round saddle w/pad under #1 skid. Prothane pad failed. Bummer! As we lift, vehicle needs wheels chocked, so vehicle does not roll. But as we lift vehicle angle changing, effectively pulls vehicle forward or jack backward. So it's important floor jack be parallel with vehicle and roll freely on concert floor.
A few words of caution. Any mod to jack even a block of wood, rubber pad or metal tube used to create extra lift. Increase the inherit risk associated with jacking up any vehicle. These implement can an do fail. Vehicle is more likely to slip of jack, when they're used. Also be very careful, to degrease any area used as a lift point. Also make sure to be on level ground.
With my new 6" extension on Dayton long reach. I was able to get my 12" of RaceRamps' under `31.5" tires, with skid on. I had only about 1.5" to spare. Each pump of the jacks handle to lift. I inspect jack, vehicle and extension for weakness or shifting. Higher we go, the more risk of a failure.
My jack 6" extension from 911, did the job. But the Prothane poly pad failed. As force of angle change, pulling at jack and vehicle during lifting. Rather than jack rolling back. Pad came off saddle, ripping it at its retaining cup of polyurethane. This damage the lift point of #1 skid, as weight shifted form centered of lift point, to front of skid lift point.
I'm working on customizing, two saddle this afternoon. Bolting on tire some tread. I'll post picture of later, if still alive...
Here's a scary video where guy did not have floor jack on smooth hard floor.
I have used a 2x4 wood block (I use mostly oak blocks) under #2 crossmember, when #1 skid off. Even with high lift jack. Not only to spread the weight, but too protect #2 crossmember while getting vehicle to a height for jack-stands I like working at. But ,the long reach do lift most any configuration of LC/LX470, high enough without block to remove a tire and them some.
When just removing a tire. We only want enough lift, tire not touching ground. This make handle weight of tire much easier, for dismount & mount. With very heavy tire/wheel assemble. I use jack to adjust height of vehicle, bring down to tire from mounting. Which I've only had to do once, on 200 series. Its custom tire/wheel, must have been over 150LB each. Which were a beast to get on.
My primary 6 ton jack-stands @abuck99, gave me years ago. They're very cool. Not only because a gift from a friend. But they have auto lift shocks, in them. He worried I kill myself with my old reds, he may have been right. But word of caution; The older style ratcheting jack-stand, do not have safety locking pin. With these, we must make sure handle locks.
I've also a set of newer 12 ton jack-stand from HF. These, are also ratcheting. But have a safety lock pin. Apparently to many accidental collapses, with older style ratcheting self lock jack stands. The 12 ton, are heavy beast. They're used mostly for when I need to place jack-stands, in front of front tire or behind rear tires on frame. Also when I'm really looking for height and stability.
Today, I'm working on customizing my floor-jack. I'm adding a chunk of tire to a 8x10"jack saddle plate, I pick-up recently, form www.911motorsports.net
It used with the 911 floor jack extension pin, which replaces stock saddle. I was looking for extension to get front end high enough, to get tires more than 12" off the ground. So i can place RaceRamp under tires, for torqueing control arm bolts. I purchased an extension kit from 911 and a few accessories, last week. Which kit has a pin, square saddle, 6" extension and 11" extension. Accessories I pick-up are; a round saddle with 3 1/4" "Prothane" polyurethane pad, 8x10" saddle plate plus bracket to hold extension tubes on jack handle.
First use was with the round saddle w/pad under #1 skid. Prothane pad failed. Bummer! As we lift, vehicle needs wheels chocked, so vehicle does not roll. But as we lift vehicle angle changing, effectively pulls vehicle forward or jack backward. So it's important floor jack be parallel with vehicle and roll freely on concert floor.
A few words of caution. Any mod to jack even a block of wood, rubber pad or metal tube used to create extra lift. Increase the inherit risk associated with jacking up any vehicle. These implement can an do fail. Vehicle is more likely to slip of jack, when they're used. Also be very careful, to degrease any area used as a lift point. Also make sure to be on level ground.
With my new 6" extension on Dayton long reach. I was able to get my 12" of RaceRamps' under `31.5" tires, with skid on. I had only about 1.5" to spare. Each pump of the jacks handle to lift. I inspect jack, vehicle and extension for weakness or shifting. Higher we go, the more risk of a failure.
My jack 6" extension from 911, did the job. But the Prothane poly pad failed. As force of angle change, pulling at jack and vehicle during lifting. Rather than jack rolling back. Pad came off saddle, ripping it at its retaining cup of polyurethane. This damage the lift point of #1 skid, as weight shifted form centered of lift point, to front of skid lift point.
I'm working on customizing, two saddle this afternoon. Bolting on tire some tread. I'll post picture of later, if still alive...
Here's a scary video where guy did not have floor jack on smooth hard floor.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #19
That was the most complete answer I’ve ever gotten on a forum
There's more!
Once vehicle in the air/raised. Jack-stand, ramps or pads under tires, are a must if working under a vehicle. One exception, is one tire changing. But, even removing one tire and not getting under vehicle, is risky. Since vehicle may shift on jack, and crush one against solid object like a wall.
I've had a few jack related accident (very few). Number one, is vehicles slipping off the jack. Fortunately we're not under vehicle ever, when jacking or supported with just a jack.
For one. When dealing with a stuck bolt, torqueing a bolt, stuck wheel, prying, pounding or pull on vehicle in any way. Extra care must be taken. For one, do not use jack-stand to leverage off of. Like putting a foot on one, to hold yourself as you pull/push on a wrench, part or crow bar. Avoid putting any pressure on vehicle that pushes it sideways, forwards or backwards. This can cause jack-stand to topple or collapse. The way I do it, is I use the frame or solid part of vehicle to leverage my body against and or tool off of. This way there is no sideways, forwards or backward force on vehicle while on jack-stand
Many choices and consideration in style, load rating, positioning and use of jack-stands. I've 8 jack-stand, one floor jack and a few bottle jacks. The best jack-stand have a safety lock, heavy gauge steel & good welds. But still, I do not extend them to their max. I'll use only and average of 80% of max height they provide.
Also be very mindful, that jack-stand are locked, before lower vehicles down on them.
Once vehicle in the air/raised. Jack-stand, ramps or pads under tires, are a must if working under a vehicle. One exception, is one tire changing. But, even removing one tire and not getting under vehicle, is risky. Since vehicle may shift on jack, and crush one against solid object like a wall.
I've had a few jack related accident (very few). Number one, is vehicles slipping off the jack. Fortunately we're not under vehicle ever, when jacking or supported with just a jack.
For one. When dealing with a stuck bolt, torqueing a bolt, stuck wheel, prying, pounding or pull on vehicle in any way. Extra care must be taken. For one, do not use jack-stand to leverage off of. Like putting a foot on one, to hold yourself as you pull/push on a wrench, part or crow bar. Avoid putting any pressure on vehicle that pushes it sideways, forwards or backwards. This can cause jack-stand to topple or collapse. The way I do it, is I use the frame or solid part of vehicle to leverage my body against and or tool off of. This way there is no sideways, forwards or backward force on vehicle while on jack-stand
Many choices and consideration in style, load rating, positioning and use of jack-stands. I've 8 jack-stand, one floor jack and a few bottle jacks. The best jack-stand have a safety lock, heavy gauge steel & good welds. But still, I do not extend them to their max. I'll use only and average of 80% of max height they provide.
Also be very mindful, that jack-stand are locked, before lower vehicles down on them.
Last edited:
