Izzy's amateur hour (2 Viewers)

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Its all preloaded. I have a 64Gb Ipad Air, works great for both work and play. ScenicMap East uses 3.54Gb, Avenza (pdf Nat Geo maps) uses 1.73Gb, Gaia 30.8Mb for the app, and 4Gb on downloaded maps.

Gaia is becoming more prissy in its use, pushing hard on subscription model so it may not last long. So far they have left older user keep the open model, but I am sure that will change too and then its time to drop them.
 
For the 36 hr race we ran a Xgps receiver and Bluetooth to iPad. We used Gaia but are switching to leadnav this year.
 
Bringing this out
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For the 36 hr race we ran a Xgps receiver and Bluetooth to iPad. We used Gaia but are switching to leadnav this year.

What were the limitations with Gaia that you ran into?
 
They have removed quiet a few layers off the basic map and added them to the subscription Level only, and are now limiting the number of maps you can download unless you join the monthly subscription. I am not updating the app so the last one doesn't affect me yet
 
They have removed quiet a few layers off the basic map and added them to the subscription Level only, and are now limiting the number of maps you can download unless you join the monthly subscription. I am not updating the app so the last one doesn't affect me yet

I gotcha. I think I am on an auto renew for $40 a year. For how little money it is I have been really surprised how well it has worked with the Ipad Mini
 
Basically user error.

Could not find a spot to load in 20 way points and let it route us. I was doing 2 and 3 at a time while we were bouncing around the trails.

The pro guys had lead nav and loaded all the way points at once and just followed what the system told them. Much easier.

Also xgps went off line one time and we were driving in circles. The pro guys have that hot wired as always on and just leave it in their glove compartment.
 
Replaced side mirror that got smashed by tree attack last weekend, cleaned area well with alcohol first, it came with the adhesive tape circles

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While driving on the highway the last couple of times, I felt the front wheels meandering a little. After reading the PiR8 (I figured it was pirate, but always think parachute infantry first) thread it triggered my memory for similar issue and checked my front wheels. And yup, had some play up and down.
Last time NCFJ fixed it, hub nuts where loose. So I followed the process as I remembered, inner nut hand tight, then outer nut 47ftlbs. All is good, having the tools makes it so much easier....and added grease to the front knuckles while at it too.

Using a magnetic dish for parts, the washers did this little trick!
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Did it take all the slop away?

Up and down is more indicative of trunion bearings typically. In and out wiggle at top and bottom (12&6) is usually the signs of lose wheel bearings.

Did you test preload? Ive had better luck running higher preload with inner nut but not sure if you went izzy hand tight or sue hand tight on these.... or really which one is tighter :P

Ive run inner nut to 20-25 ft:lbs with the 37s and 20 with 315s and been happy. But then again those Hercules are 33" right? (down to a 32 1/4 by now) so probably dont muck with the bearings as much.
 
It was 12 & 6, and the inner bearing was very loose. Didnt test for preload, done that 3 times with fish scales and it always disappointed me. So this time went with what I recall Stan do for me and what Jonesy did on the video, hand tight on the inner. Didnt do gorilla Izzy, but one hand tight. The outer nut I did 47 ftlbs, then back it off, then 44. And now she tracks straight.
The tires are 33" correct, down to maybe 32 1/2". Will drive some more next week.
 
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Agree fish scale sucks. Shouldnt have said preload as much as identifiable or replicable torque. Either way. Glad ya got it all fixed up.
 
For my next trick, I decided I needed additional power sockets and a voltmeter in the cab. I won't bore you with the decision algorithm but it is long and complex "hey, that looks cool...".
So I bought this unit below, and realized that the fuse block I have will have constant power, so need the ability to turn it on and off. So I got the 20amp switch and a mustang radio blackout piece of plastic to mount the 4 items.

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Used a 1 3/16" hole saw and drilled them 40mm on center. The edges don't look pretty as I used a dull knife to trim it
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I connected it to my HAM power supply and it worked! I will use it to power the cell, the iPad, and look at voltage. The 12 V plug will probably be seldom used as I still have the factory one.
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I wired them in series (corection - parallel) from the switch, then will add a 15 amp fuses at the fuse box
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....I wired them in series from the switch, then will add a 15 amp fuses at the fuse box
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Hmmm....as your terminals share the wires in and out on the hot and ground side, I believe you have them in parallel - which I would think is the correct way to do this.
 
DUHHH, right. But I believe in alternative facts, and in that universe, they are in series
 
What an amazing afternoon today, CHARLOTTE was sunny and 70, amazing so I decided to plug in the new toy and clean up the wires going to accessories on the bulkhead. Added a 15 Amp fuse on this circuit. It all works and nothing exploded, that's a good thing. Now, I can't remember if there was a plug for the cigarette lighter or not... may steal one from one of my kids cars.

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Time for new tires and "but mom, all my friends have BFG, I need those too..." And the sale on BFG at 4WheelParts makes it hard to say no as I have been looking. 255/85/16 KM2. Man Tires, of course.

KM3s are around the corner later this summer, saw them testing and look great too

BF Goodrich 255/85R16 Tire, Mud-Terrain T/A KM2 - 4222
 
Got to fix the windshield first. Working with local guys (Glass Doctor) with good reputation, but so far has been "tomorrow". But, when its done, will be good and have 12 month warranty. New tires and rolling for adventures....
 
Glass Doctor! 2 Techs came, one had experience on LCs and did know how to do it, caulked it like FSM... Looks great.

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