RUBBER hammer.
Izzy's amateur hour
- Thread starter izzyandsue
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RUBBER hammer.
- Thread starter
- #202
Right! Thanks Rice, my forehead or rubber mallet would have done it. Next weekend...unless the family has birthday activities planned...
I soaked the undercarriage to remove 50lbs of mud from yesterday, then Autobell, and got inspired and waxed the old truck. Looking good...
I soaked the undercarriage to remove 50lbs of mud from yesterday, then Autobell, and got inspired and waxed the old truck. Looking good...
- Thread starter
- #203
Thanks to Rice, got the Throttle Body out and replaced the leaky gasket and seals Valve Cover Gasket ( for dummies )
You were one step away from the head gasket and you close it back up.Thanks to Rice, got the Throttle Body out and replaced the leaky gasket and seals Valve Cover Gasket ( for dummies )
- Thread starter
- #205
Got a new right size spare Man Tire for the solo trip this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #206
Early up and replaced the distributor o-ring. It was rock solid and cracked! Followed the easy instructions on the main Forum, was easy to do.
Also, adjusted alternator belts, where close to 30lbs! Got the up to 80 or so. I hope that's why the truck had a hard start in the morning.
Also, adjusted alternator belts, where close to 30lbs! Got the up to 80 or so. I hope that's why the truck had a hard start in the morning.
- Thread starter
- #207
This the new Cuban Chrome line of products 6x8 awning. Built with recycled natural materials and debuting next weekend at Hurricane Creek. Can resists tropical windstorms, guaranteed. Eat your heart out, ARB....
The posts and guy lines roll into a compact location into the rooftop basket.
The posts and guy lines roll into a compact location into the rooftop basket.
hard to tell from the pics but what did you use to make it?
- Thread starter
- #209
The part lists usually sells for $69.95, but running a special today, just for you!
Its a 6x8 tarp from Lowes, $7 or so. The paracord is the one rated for 100lbs, got 50 ft of that. The "stiffener" is a an old wood tomato plant stake (because I had old ones under the house and my wife wont notice them missing), ziptied to the grommets and with holes for the tent poles. The tent poles are Amazon.com : Coleman Steel Replacement Pole : Sports & Outdoors which I bought for the Big Agnes tent front flappy thing, the line tensioners are http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alum...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00, then 2 tent stakes and you too can be Cuban Chrome aficionado.
Stiffener:
paracord simply tied to the bottom rail of the roof rack. It tucks in nice and small out of the windstream too. Not counting the poles, which I got for the tent, i spent less than $20.
On end corner, I did 2 paracords, one to tie to the bottom like the rest, and one to create tension to the front like below, and one to the back.
Its a 6x8 tarp from Lowes, $7 or so. The paracord is the one rated for 100lbs, got 50 ft of that. The "stiffener" is a an old wood tomato plant stake (because I had old ones under the house and my wife wont notice them missing), ziptied to the grommets and with holes for the tent poles. The tent poles are Amazon.com : Coleman Steel Replacement Pole : Sports & Outdoors which I bought for the Big Agnes tent front flappy thing, the line tensioners are http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alum...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00, then 2 tent stakes and you too can be Cuban Chrome aficionado.
Stiffener:
paracord simply tied to the bottom rail of the roof rack. It tucks in nice and small out of the windstream too. Not counting the poles, which I got for the tent, i spent less than $20.
On end corner, I did 2 paracords, one to tie to the bottom like the rest, and one to create tension to the front like below, and one to the back.
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
Those tensioner a are a little fancy aren't they?
I'll need to show you how to use a beer tab, and you can send those back.
I'll need to show you how to use a beer tab, and you can send those back.
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
I was going to mention the the taut line hitch, but somehow the pull tops seemed more in the spirit.
- Thread starter
- #213
This is a classy operation, needed those circle red ones to match the red cord.
- Thread starter
- #214
New sway at bushings, front end is a lot quieter! I can't grab the bar and clank it anymore. These are the old worn ones.
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- Thread starter
- #215
Izzy 2.0 enjoying the awning at the Pyrnic. Big doggies
- Thread starter
- #216
Today spent the day at Big Creek training grounds, great day with great bunch of guys. I had the pleasure of having Scott Gadd as a passenger and extra pair of eyeballs.
Unfortunately, my CDL will not engage, so 4L was at times one wheel drive, the one up on the air! It made the driving challenging, but soldiered on and followed the instructors directions, got through it all. Will have to debunk the CDL issue, might be the wiring I did last year with house wire nuts? Drats!
Unfortunately, my CDL will not engage, so 4L was at times one wheel drive, the one up on the air! It made the driving challenging, but soldiered on and followed the instructors directions, got through it all. Will have to debunk the CDL issue, might be the wiring I did last year with house wire nuts? Drats!
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- Thread starter
- #217
CDL not working. Wires connected with waterproof spade connectors, but nothing. I was able to jump the connector on the "present" switch and the dashboard lights comes on, so thats not it. I hear the solenoid clicking in the cabin, but nothing under the truck, no motor sound. Any thoughts appreciated.
Also traced the power steering leak to the pressure hose, that started yesterday on the trail and today with plate off and good visibility I can see the hose leaking when turning the wheel. The pump is new, but the hose is not. Is that a difficult hose to change out? Searching the main Forum as well. Thanks for any advise.
Also traced the power steering leak to the pressure hose, that started yesterday on the trail and today with plate off and good visibility I can see the hose leaking when turning the wheel. The pump is new, but the hose is not. Is that a difficult hose to change out? Searching the main Forum as well. Thanks for any advise.
- Thread starter
- #218
Ordered a new pressure hose from RockAuto (seems to be a common and good replacement from Forum threads) and new banjo bolt and washers since I plan on loosing/braking/replacing them. Hope it is not too messy to change!
Found a used CDL actuator motor in Ebay for $113 (new ones range from $500 to over $1000 MSRP), 120 day warranty. Bought it and hope to replace it this weekend. The hard thing is going to be the location of the actuator, looks very difficult to get to on top of the case.
Found a used CDL actuator motor in Ebay for $113 (new ones range from $500 to over $1000 MSRP), 120 day warranty. Bought it and hope to replace it this weekend. The hard thing is going to be the location of the actuator, looks very difficult to get to on top of the case.
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
Totally making that awning for the June Hurricane Creek Trip. I need to get out of the mindset that I have to buy everything pre-made. Thanks for the inspiration!
- Thread starter
- #220
High Pressure Power Steering hose done! I am not saying is done right, but done. Doesn't seem to be leaking anymore but time will tell. Total Mud time 33 minutes. Izzy time 3 hours.
Tools I used/needed
22mm socket
24mm socket
17mm flare nut wrench
24mm open ended wrench
24 in pry bar
18" of 1 inch diameter black pipe I use for extension
18" breaker bar
Oil collection pan
Thor's Hammer
Assorted 3/8 socket set
The gates hose came with 2 brass washers, so no need for those.
Remove the battery tray, much easier to get to the hose and related crap. There is a 10mm bolt holding the bottom Metal U of the hose, remove that from underneath first to remove hose bracket from frame
Slide a 24mm open ended wrench into nut behind the banjo connection. Will be impossible to hold the wrench while removing the banjo bolt, so I inserted the long pry bar into wrench closed side to get leverage against engine.
Then use 22mm socket, exertions, and breaker bar to loosen the banjo bolt while holding the pry bar so the nut doesn't come off. When they separated, it was a boom. Insert oil pan to catch dripping oil. Now remove the banjo bolt carefully, save the washers in case you loose the new ones.
The flare nut is the one on the outer side of the case. The "wet one " below
To break it loose, set wench into nut, then through the plastic dirt right above the front wheel, insert the 18" pipe and set it against the wrench. There is no space to grab wrench, so pipe acts as your hand. Then use Thor's hammer and whack the wrench
The shiny part above is the wrench, fits perfectly in the slot. Once the nut is loose, you can repeat the process but don't need the hammer anymore. Use the pry bar to keep the hose from moving all about. This will suck and take a long time.
When done, slide hose up carefully, and empty the fluid from it.
Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the bracket to the old hose. Inside the clamps there's rubber sleeves, r use them and replace the bracket o the new hose just like it was on the old.
Install is the reverse, it was easier to first get the cas flare nut to start getting threaded to act as anchor. Use a regular 17mm wrench for this, just need a few revolutions.
Next insert the 10mm bolt and bracket to secure hose to frame and let you bend it.
Now use the 24mm socket to tighten the nut to the pump. There's nothing on FSM for this, so issued 55ftlbs. Then carefully insert washer into banjo bolt, banjo into hose, and washer on other side. Thread banjo bolt into pump. The banjo bolt is 42ftlbs when done.
Final is the flare nut bastard. There's no spec on that either, so I made it as tight as I could. I ended up using my trick of the pipe and the hammer but in the other direction.
Then refill the reservoir with ATF (or power steering fluid if that's you religious observance) and turn engine one, looked for leaks. Call surly teenager to turn the wheel from side to side while you look all over and under truck with flashlight for leaks. Hopefully it's all dry and you are good to go.
It's too freaking hot to now work on actuator, jumping in pool!
Tools I used/needed
22mm socket
24mm socket
17mm flare nut wrench
24mm open ended wrench
24 in pry bar
18" of 1 inch diameter black pipe I use for extension
18" breaker bar
Oil collection pan
Thor's Hammer
Assorted 3/8 socket set
The gates hose came with 2 brass washers, so no need for those.
Remove the battery tray, much easier to get to the hose and related crap. There is a 10mm bolt holding the bottom Metal U of the hose, remove that from underneath first to remove hose bracket from frame
Slide a 24mm open ended wrench into nut behind the banjo connection. Will be impossible to hold the wrench while removing the banjo bolt, so I inserted the long pry bar into wrench closed side to get leverage against engine.
Then use 22mm socket, exertions, and breaker bar to loosen the banjo bolt while holding the pry bar so the nut doesn't come off. When they separated, it was a boom. Insert oil pan to catch dripping oil. Now remove the banjo bolt carefully, save the washers in case you loose the new ones.
The flare nut is the one on the outer side of the case. The "wet one " below
To break it loose, set wench into nut, then through the plastic dirt right above the front wheel, insert the 18" pipe and set it against the wrench. There is no space to grab wrench, so pipe acts as your hand. Then use Thor's hammer and whack the wrench
The shiny part above is the wrench, fits perfectly in the slot. Once the nut is loose, you can repeat the process but don't need the hammer anymore. Use the pry bar to keep the hose from moving all about. This will suck and take a long time.
When done, slide hose up carefully, and empty the fluid from it.
Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the bracket to the old hose. Inside the clamps there's rubber sleeves, r use them and replace the bracket o the new hose just like it was on the old.
Install is the reverse, it was easier to first get the cas flare nut to start getting threaded to act as anchor. Use a regular 17mm wrench for this, just need a few revolutions.
Next insert the 10mm bolt and bracket to secure hose to frame and let you bend it.
Now use the 24mm socket to tighten the nut to the pump. There's nothing on FSM for this, so issued 55ftlbs. Then carefully insert washer into banjo bolt, banjo into hose, and washer on other side. Thread banjo bolt into pump. The banjo bolt is 42ftlbs when done.
Final is the flare nut bastard. There's no spec on that either, so I made it as tight as I could. I ended up using my trick of the pipe and the hammer but in the other direction.
Then refill the reservoir with ATF (or power steering fluid if that's you religious observance) and turn engine one, looked for leaks. Call surly teenager to turn the wheel from side to side while you look all over and under truck with flashlight for leaks. Hopefully it's all dry and you are good to go.
It's too freaking hot to now work on actuator, jumping in pool!