NCFJ
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Izzy's amateur hour
- Thread starter izzyandsue
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #162
I thought 5mA was not much, read somewhere under 50mA is typical?
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
its not
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
If your battery is dumping in two days its more than that
- Thread starter
- #165
Well, thank you gents, it might be time to invest in new harrypottery electrowizardry wand then...
Meanwhile, I will entertain myself installing this bad boy
Meanwhile, I will entertain myself installing this bad boy
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
Nice.
If you wish to greatly improve your electrical skills, consider installing one of these as well.
- Thread starter
- #167
Well, couldnt help it, besides I need another pair of hands to lift the rack. That rack is no more than 60 lbs, pretty cool.
So removed negative from battery, meter in series this time reads 5.47mA with winch removed. Removed one at a time each item in engine fuse box. The only change was dome light, went to 4.92mA. Then repeat process and removed each fuse in internal fuse box, no change in meter. open and close front door did show a slight move of less than .02-.03. I dont see a fuse for the radio.... I know the radio has one in the head unit.
So removed negative from battery, meter in series this time reads 5.47mA with winch removed. Removed one at a time each item in engine fuse box. The only change was dome light, went to 4.92mA. Then repeat process and removed each fuse in internal fuse box, no change in meter. open and close front door did show a slight move of less than .02-.03. I dont see a fuse for the radio.... I know the radio has one in the head unit.
glove box light?
- Thread starter
- #169
That off, just checked. Need the key on it. Could it be I need to ground my battery better? Stan has seen my rinkydink battery contacts
Major electrical drain and no crank
Major electrical drain and no crank
You probably burned the factory amplifier that is next to the glove box behind the passenger speaker. Disconnect it and see if your amps go down.
- Thread starter
- #171
Amplifier? This not a stinking lexus! We dont got no amplifiers... Will look tomorrow night f i can turn my head sideways to remove the glove box, thanks!
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
It's a topsy-turvey, Alice in Wonderland sort of world, when you're chasing an electrical gremlin on you Land Cruiser, and need to drive you Rover instead.
- Thread starter
- #173
Can't figure out electrical crap. Stan, why don't you move a little closer?
Anyway, rear locker actuator went in today, not simple but not hard either with FSM and help from you guys.
Old unit with cover removed, it is dead. I may rebuild it later, and have both front and rear spares.
Nice shiny new one.
Got it all installed and tested, works great. Cleaned the position switch while I had that out.
Will attempt to negotiate the front locker again tomorrow. That still kicks my ass.
Anyway, rear locker actuator went in today, not simple but not hard either with FSM and help from you guys.
Old unit with cover removed, it is dead. I may rebuild it later, and have both front and rear spares.
Nice shiny new one.
Got it all installed and tested, works great. Cleaned the position switch while I had that out.
Will attempt to negotiate the front locker again tomorrow. That still kicks my ass.
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- Thread starter
- #174
BajaRack long rack got on today too. Now with a rack and Man Tires, tuck is unstoppable. Unless the battery dies...
- Thread starter
- #175
This morning finally got the front actuator off, got the rack to the locked position, indexed the actuator with 9V battery, reinstalled and tested. Now I got solid locked lights and everything works as it should. So far so good.
Rack was not moving all the way to lock, so with front end lifted, used a flat screwdriver to push it left while rotating front tires a bit. Then it went into place. Below is the unlocked position rack via actuator hole.
Went to Home Depot and got a new Klein MM400 multimeter. Dooohhhh... Now I can measure thi biatch. So here is what I
found, KC lights and winch disconnected:
Should I add a ground direct from winch negative cable to frame? This cable is th one that goes from winch motor to battery negative. Or add the winch disconnect swich prior to going to battery?
Pics below for new meter, prior to fuse blow easy to read mA, then after using the larger scale, lost some accuracy.
Rack was not moving all the way to lock, so with front end lifted, used a flat screwdriver to push it left while rotating front tires a bit. Then it went into place. Below is the unlocked position rack via actuator hole.
Went to Home Depot and got a new Klein MM400 multimeter. Dooohhhh... Now I can measure thi biatch. So here is what I
found, KC lights and winch disconnected:
- Base draw is 13.5 mA
- Removed the dome fuse and goes to 7.7mA
- Removed Am1 and goes to 10.6
- Opened front door and went to 500mA, closed front door and 13.5 mA
- None of the internal fuses made a difference
- Connected the KC lights, no change
- Connected the winch positive and got to 52mA
- Connected winch negative and Boomwhackalacka, meter beeps and blows fuse, shiiiiit
Should I add a ground direct from winch negative cable to frame? This cable is th one that goes from winch motor to battery negative. Or add the winch disconnect swich prior to going to battery?
Pics below for new meter, prior to fuse blow easy to read mA, then after using the larger scale, lost some accuracy.
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- Thread starter
- #176
Another thought I had, if I connect the winch negative to the battery with the positive off, there's no increase in current draw either. The positive is the one, so there's something wrong with the winch that's using power. Don't have the winch manual, will search online.
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R u sure the is not a wire that is reversed on the winch?
I dont want to search all this thread i know it is here but you can write it again. Where did u got ur sliders and bumper from?
I dont want to search all this thread i know it is here but you can write it again. Where did u got ur sliders and bumper from?
- Thread starter
- #178
Will have to take winch off bumper to investigate, maybe solenoid stuck.
Sliders and bumpers from Metaltech, Metal Tech 4x4 Toyota Off Road Specialists
Sliders and bumpers from Metaltech, Metal Tech 4x4 Toyota Off Road Specialists
Izzy, for that rear actuator, I hope you used a new gasket! In addition, did you verify that the vent tube is not clogged?
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Izzy, how much was the actuator?