Builds I've waited 20yrs for this 40th build

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Did you weld that rear bumper directly onto the frame rails? If so, how did the pro/con work out in your head for doing that? Really love the design if I can find a good place to put my spare.

It's welded to the rails. I thought about it for sure, but really did not want to hassle with the fabrication of making it bolt on. I have had many years of auto repair, much of which was collision repair and frame work, so I knew it could be done very well. Bolt on could be done, I just figured it wasn't worth the time. I have no regrets at all.
 
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It's welded to the rails. I thought about it for sure, but really did not want to hassle with the fabrication of making it bolt on. I have had many years of auto repair, much of which was collision repair and frame work, so I knew I could be done very well. Bolt on could be done, I just figured it wasn't worth the time. I have no regrets at all.
I think you would have some serious customers if you were to make a bolt on.
 
It's welded to the rails. I thought about it for sure, but really did not want to hassle with the fabrication of making it bolt on. I have had many years of auto repair, much of which was collision repair and frame work, so I knew I could be done very well. Bolt on could be done, I just figured it wasn't worth the time. I have no regrets at all.
Certainly would make the build easier. I've been having this internal debate for a few weeks and I'm still undecided. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
I would love a bolt on version of that rear bumper, and I would gladly participate in a group buy if a group buy could make it happen.
 
The bumper is nice for sure but I like my swing outs.
 
On the bumper....

My plan is to bring it to market as both a weld on and bolt on version. As some of you know, to build something like this along with a jig is incredibly time consuming. Trust me, I feel the pressure to get it going, but I will not be rushing or cutting corners to make it happen. I have two local candidates that I will be using for checking fit along with measurements for any final jig tweaking and now that weather is a bit better I should be circling back to this project. I have also had a few inquiries about adding swing outs, but at this time, that is really low on the list. I am sure it can be done, but fitting a spindle at the corner appears to be very tight so I will need to look at it a bit more and then decide.
 
On the bumper....

My plan is to bring it to market as both a weld on and bolt on version. As some of you know, to build something like this along with a jig is incredibly time consuming. Trust me, I feel the pressure to get it going, but I will not be rushing or cutting corners to make it happen. I have two local candidates that I will be using for checking fit along with measurements for any final jig tweaking and now that weather is a bit better I should be circling back to this project. I have also had a few inquiries about adding swing outs, but at this time, that is really low on the list. I am sure it can be done, but fitting a spindle at the corner appears to be very tight so I will need to look at it a bit more and then decide.

Will the spare be able to stay in stock location? If so, put me on the waiting list!

Cheers,
Salue
 
Will the spare be able to stay in stock location? If so, put me on the waiting list!

Cheers,
Salue

Yes, it can stay there, but getting the tool into the mechanism to raise and lower the tire may be difficult. I will keep that in mind as I work through all this.
 
Great build and great rig. Your attention to detail is awesome. I may have missed it in an earlier post but what size tires are you running? And how old was the OME you changed from to the Dobinsons. Mostly just curious from your comment on the added comfort the Dobinsons added.
 
Thanks! I am running 315's. The OME's were relatively new, less than 20k on them. I have driven a bit more on long stretches of dirt roads with and without washboards all the while confirming the Dob's are better. I have no regrets changing to them.
 
On the bumper....

My plan is to bring it to market as both a weld on and bolt on version... I have two local candidates that I will be using for checking fit along with measurements for any final jig tweaking...

Where are you located? If those first two local candidates don’t work out I’ll drive my Cruiser over as a possible third!! 😂 👊 Nice looking rig and good job on everything so far!
 
Colorado Springs, so a bit far for you to just drive over. So far its coming together just fine.

Thanks!
 
For those of you considering the 10% under-drive gears, the low range gears, or both inside transfer case, here are my thoughts as I recently installed both sets into my transfer case.


To begin with, my 80 is very well maintained, it pretty quiet running down the road, and I know it intimately. Going into this, I was not so much worried about noise from the low range, but with some recent concerns popping up on MUD about the UD gear noise and the warning from OTRAMM that some people experience gear noise, I was worried. I like my rig to feel solid and without any weirdness, especially in the drive line. I picked up the low range gears quite a long time ago and then the under-drive gears from Cruiser Brothers when they were running the sale over the holidays. For me, getting the final drive ratio back to stock for only about $400 plus my labor was a no-brainer. I also had a bearing in my t-case that was making a bit of noise when it was cold, so I wanted to fix that too. The plan was to replace all the seals, the front and rear output shaft bearings, and then only the bearings appearing to have more wear than I was comfortable with. Only one additional bearing was replaced.

Beyond the awkward, heavy, and dirty transfer case, the installation is pretty straight forward. Some of the press work and pulling is odd, but if you can think through it and be a little creative it will go down without a hitch. I highly recommend watching the @OTRAMM videos a handful of times prior to digging in. Those videos, plus the FSM proved invaluable.


Here are my impressions of the drive-ability after installation.


  1. WOW!! The low range gears are totally worth it! Huge change, and I can’t wait to get out on the trail. This is the thing I can’t get out of my mind. I am certain it will pay dividends on the trail.

  2. The 10% under-drive is worth it, although during my first few drives it almost seemed imperceptible. By this, I mean, its like you know something is different but you’re just not sure what. It just seemed more right, but was really hard to point to exactly what made it seem that way. I drove from Colorado Springs to Denver today to get some highway time and it is just better. In a very simple way, it’s just better. Cruise control set at 75 just sticks there, even with the hills in between the two cities. The truck seems to be more comfortable cruising along at all speeds. Easier to accelerate, decelerate, merge, etc.

  3. Noise - I am only getting a faint gear whine from the under-drive gears. It also really only comes in about 55-65 mph. I am going to sound deaden the tunnel to get rid of what I hear, but I doubt my wife will even notice. I would also be surprised if it doesn’t get better as they wear in a bit. I am running 85w90 oil for the first 100 miles and then I may go thicker to see if it helps. The noise potential was my biggest concern, but after today’s drive I am totally fine with the noise level.

  4. I now want to get the speedo corrected. It’s weird to have everything better and feel right, but have the speed off. I think I will just run the yellow box.
Dealing with the front output shaft bearing and putting the transfer case back into the truck were my biggest frustrations. Beyond those two things, it’s all good and I am happy I did it.

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I have just done the 10% underdrive and low range reduction gears as well, I was going to make a new thread but stuff that, you have hit the nail on the head. Pulling the case and replacing it is the worst part of the whole process. A couple of problems I had were the top bolt on the right hand side - I had to remove the bolt facing the opposite direction to move the hook on the side of the auto box so I could get at the one I needed to pull out. Then, after it went back into the car, the motor for the centre diff lock wouldn't work - after checking elec connections I lowered the whole t case/auto box a bit and unbolted the motor off the top of the t case, the little gear had been bumped and I just had to rotate it clockwise to it's stop. That let the stepper motor know where it was and it worked after that.

as far as gear noise from the underdrive gears - it's only barely loud enough to hear if you are looking for it, I have great hearing and it's a non issue. I replaced the boot under the shifters so that may have helped.

I bought my gears from kurt @cruiseroutfit and had a buddy bring them over from the states, Id buy from Cruiser outfitters again, can recommend them, the Terrain Tamer ones were $1800ish for each set in Aus, way cheaper from kurt. I did use a Terrain Tamer small parts kit though. And a shout to @OTRAMM for the video on youtube, I had planned to do it all myself but after stripping it apart I quickly realised I didn't have the right tools for the shop press so I dropped it off at a local place and they did it for me.
 
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About a month ago, I sleeved and lengthened my front track bar along with replacing my front lower control arm bushings. No real need to address the track bar, except a slight rub of the spring to frame bracket that simply annoyed me. I lengthened it right at 3/16. No more rubbing and no pics of the work.
 
Replaced the alternator brushes during an oil change simply as PM. I figure since its never been done, just do it when it is easy and prior to having a problem. You can see the original brushes are far from worn out, but I'm happy to have new ones in there.

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Also finally replaced the stereo with a Sony XAV-AX1000. It had good reviews, offered CarPlay, sub out, and was camera ready. Any double din unit without a volume knob was a no-go for me too. I really like the volume knob on this unit along with how simple it's aesthetic is. I put a cheapo Amazon back up camera in the license plate light housing, a sub amp in the stock woofer location and a 10" slim sub in a small box behind the third row. Very pleased to have a modern stereo.

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What brand is your dash mat? I've never seen one that covers the area in front the clock/vents.

Also finally replaced the stereo with a Sony XAV-AX1000. It had good reviews, offered CarPlay, sub out, and was camera ready. Any double din unit without a volume knob was a no-go for me too. I really like the volume knob on this unit along with how simple it's aesthetic is. I put a cheapo Amazon back up camera in the license plate light housing, a sub amp in the stock woofer location and a 10" slim sub in a small box behind the third row. Very pleased to have a modern stereo.

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Decided to replace the main battery cables. I built the main battery ground and starter cable out of 2awg tinned marine cable, Panduit lugs, and adhesive shrink tube. I also moved the protective padding from the original cable set over to the new set. It looks like its there to protect the cables from abrasion near the steering box shield and the dip stick tube. I also added about six inches to each cable so when I replace the battery I have a few more options. The original lug cover at the starter was also reused. I don't think anything larger than 2awg would fit, so its nice having the starter lug covered and protected like it was intended from the factory. The unexpected bonus was how much faster it turns over when starting, I didn't expect that. I also discovered I need to get some more flex loom for the oil sending unit.


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