I've got my hash pipe.....

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Beautiful, Matt. I'm impressed with how well that prang on the left rear tail light came out.

Can't wait to see the rims. How did the spare clean up?

Josh

You would never be able to tell that rear x-member was bent, it straightened out well.

Spare must of cleaned up well, I can't tell which one it was after they all have been blasted now? :)
 
How many coats of the DP50LF did you end up spraying? How many coats of the DCU2010?

Also curious what spray guns you use. Do you use high-end guns or economy guns? I've recently got some good condition used SATA guns (one for primer, one for base, one for clear) and am hoping to put them to use soon! I also have read that one 'should' have 25' of line (copper or whatever) after the compressor, then a water filter, then the final hose to the gun. Do you have a setup like that?

STUNNING! Taking notes - I feel like a pupil. Thanks again for sharing the process!!! :)
 
How many coats of the DP50LF did you end up spraying? How many coats of the DCU2010?

Also curious what spray guns you use. Do you use high-end guns or economy guns? I've recently got some good condition used SATA guns (one for primer, one for base, one for clear) and am hoping to put them to use soon! I also have read that one 'should' have 25' of line (copper or whatever) after the compressor, then a water filter, then the final hose to the gun. Do you have a setup like that?

STUNNING! Taking notes - I feel like a pupil. Thanks again for sharing the process!!! :)

2 coats of DP and 2 coats of DCU.

My spray gun is somewhat of an economy gun, although I can't remember what brand it is...I think it was around $150 bucks, I've been using it forever now.

I don't have 25' of copper or anything like that. I do have a water filter after the compressor, and that does catch moisture coming out of my compressor. Compressor is a 80 gallon vertical 2 stage.
 
This is a very cool project. :)

Can you share the steps or process you use to clean the blasted metal before you lay down the first coat of primer?

Thanks!
 
This is a very cool project. :)

Can you share the steps or process you use to clean the blasted metal before you lay down the first coat of primer?

Thanks!

Easy...blow off and prime. ;)

If it had been sitting around for a while, I may blow it off, wipe it with DX330 and then prime. But, it had just been blasted, it is about as clean as it's going to get. Wiping it with a solevent usually isn't doing much good at that point, and in fact maybe doing more harm than good by getting solevent's and bits of rag hung up on the metal. My experience is blast, blow it off extremely well and get into primer right away. I'm sure I spent at least a half hour blowing off that frame, just trying to make sure every spec of sand was out of it and no residual dust on the surface.

Matt
 
Easy...blow off and prime. ;)

If it had been sitting around for a while, I may blow it off, wipe it with DX330 and then prime. But, it had just been blasted, it is about as clean as it's going to get. Wiping it with a solevent usually isn't doing much good at that point, and in fact maybe doing more harm than good by getting solevent's and bits of rag hung up on the metal. My experience is blast, blow it off extremely well and get into primer right away. I'm sure I spent at least a half hour blowing off that frame, just trying to make sure every spec of sand was out of it and no residual dust on the surface.

Matt

Great, thanks.

This is what I ended up doing as well for many of the parts on my project. At first, I was cleaning with solvent but no matter what type of rag or paper towel I used, I ended up depositing a lot of lint on the metal. I then had to go over it with tack rag and more air to get the lint off but it was still hard to remove and ultimately I was not able to get 100% of it off.

The fresh blasted surface really snags a lot of stuff. Mine was blasted with garnet which should be less abrasive than sand. If they used sand yours then I can imagine the metal surface was rougher than the surface on my parts.

Do you use anything with the air like a dry paint brush to help loosen the particles? I tried this and it seemed to work pretty well. I made sure the brush was new and clean so I was not leaving any residue.
 
Great, thanks.

This is what I ended up doing as well for many of the parts on my project. At first, I was cleaning with solvent but no matter what type of rag or paper towel I used, I ended up depositing a lot of lint on the metal. I then had to go over it with tack rag and more air to get the lint off but it was still hard to remove and ultimately I was not able to get 100% of it off.

The fresh blasted surface really snags a lot of stuff. Mine was blasted with garnet which should be less abrasive than sand. If they used sand yours then I can imagine the metal surface was rougher than the surface on my parts.

Do you use anything with the air like a dry paint brush to help loosen the particles? I tried this and it seemed to work pretty well. I made sure the brush was new and clean so I was not leaving any residue.


My compressor is a 80 gallon vert. 2 stage set at 175 psi, so blowing at a pretty high pressure. It seems to really blow everything out of there really good. I don't think in my case a brush would do much good.
 
Nothing that special to report, just more paint. Had a couple buddies come out today at lunch and help me haul the frame out of the booth. Got home tonight and hung up 5 split rims and the rings.

Sprayed a couple coats of DP50LF. Hoping to get an hour tomorrow afternoon to shoot the clear, I don't think it will take that long.
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Pic of one of the rims primed in DP50LF and shot of frame and axles.

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This is a stuped question, but one I have always wondered about. After you hang a part & paint it, what do you do about the area that was under the hanger area & doesn't get painted? Do you have to move it & paint a second coat, knowing that two tiny spots only get one coat each, or does paint get sprayed in there anyway & it isn't anything to worry about?
Thanks,
Abe
 
This is a stuped question, but one I have always wondered about. After you hang a part & paint it, what do you do about the area that was under the hanger area & doesn't get painted? Do you have to move it & paint a second coat, knowing that two tiny spots only get one coat each, or does paint get sprayed in there anyway & it isn't anything to worry about?
Thanks,
Abe

I guess there is always going to be that little area that doesn't get any paint, but it's pretty minor. On the frame I used a 5/16" eye bolt on each corner with just a nut on the back side. The hole it went through was about 3/8" on the frame, so you can imagine how close the nut was to going through the hole, pretty close.

On those rims I used a 7/16" bolt through one of the lug nut holes. The head of the bolt was just a hair bigger than the lug nut hole. So, not a lot of overlap over the edge of the hole, and only one hole.

I think if you think most things through you can pretty much hang stuff so that essentially your able to paint the entire piece.

Matt
 
Some of us dream of the day we can paint something....

painting (well shooting primer) is not as difficult as you may think... but... it is having a place to shoot paint like Matt has.... :D

Nice job Matt... still bummed we wont get to hang out this weekend... :crybaby:
 
I'm a ways out on this, but I was just doing a little research and thinking. A 1979 - 84 FJ40 body mount kit should be the same as a 84 troopy correct? Minus 2 of the hockey puck mounts?

I was looking on SOR's site at body mount kits, example part # 105-110F BLK


Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 105 Land Cruiser Body Mounts

It looks as though I would have to buy 2 of these kits just so I could get 2 more pucks.

Does this sound like it's correct? I believe a troopy has 12 mounting points, I'm assuming a 79 to 84 FJ40 has 10?

Edit: I attached a diagram off of SOR's site, looks like 10 in that pic.

Matt
105B.gif
 
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my alum. tub came with body mounts. I had previously bought some from CCOT and ended up only using the two where the original cowl mounted. I cant remember why. I think it was because the alum tub was different enough that they did not work correctly.
 
my alum. tub came with body mounts. I had previously bought some from CCOT and ended up only using the two where the original cowl mounted. I cant remember why. I think it was because the alum tub was different enough that they did not work correctly.

Your body and frame are/were the pre 78 style. I've seen the bottom of Aqualu's tubs in pics, and I can see where that stock, "C shaped" style mount wouldn't work on an Aqualu tub. I would imagine you would have to use some sort of puck style mount instead of the C shaped mount.

I wonder if Aqualu sends mounts with for there 79+ tubs? May have to email and ask.

Thanks, Matt
 
Matt-

I have the Energy Suspension Kit and found that you can buy individual pieces. Mine had some pieces lost between PO and myself.

Here is the informaiton I received from:

Bruce
Suspension Restoration Parts Co.
319-C Motor City Court
Modesto, CA. 95356
Suspension Restoration Parts Co.
209-578-5101 Voice

4143G in stock @ $1.26 each.
4144G in stock @ $5.06 each
4145G in stock @ $9.28 each.

We will have to order the:
4147G. Last price from Energy Suspension was $1.60. I would expect it to increase based on their latest prices.
15.07.06.39 7/16”-14 nut plate. Last price from E.S. was $6.00.


I will also say that if you need more than a few parts, and like the energy suspension kits, they are very reasonable on Amazon and ship straight from Energy.
 
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