it's getting cold again, or: heater woes part 347

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by reece, Nov 10, 2005.

  1. reece

    reece

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2002
    Location:
    Juneau, AK
    Ok.

    After trying all the numerous things I've found by searching... I have the following issues:

    Rear heater: works great. pumps out HOT air.

    Front heater: ugh. lukewarm at best. unless it's hot ouside, then i get heat.

    What's the next step?
     
  2. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,168
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    pull the core, clean all the hair/dust/leaves/dead insects out of it, and then rinse the inside with muratic acid and LOTS of water to clean it out.

    I would also check the hoses to make sure there are no kinks etc.

    This should do it. If you are not comfortable with the muriatic acid, you could use radiator flush.

    Good Luck!
     
  3. brett76

    brett76

    Messages:
    1,264
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2005
    Location:
    t town, wa
    whats the temp gauge say? mine was like that but i fnally noticed that i was running awfully cold. my thermostat was stuck open. i thought my heater was just s***ty cuz in town it would take like 30 min to get warm air out of it. then when i would drive freeway i noticed my motor was getting colder.
    and then it was :idea: :doh:
     
  4. green40

    green40

    Messages:
    3,463
    Likes Received:
    116
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2003
    Location:
    Swanzey NH
    Do you just fill the core with the acid and let it sit? How much acid and for how long before you rinse?
     
  5. oldman

    oldman

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2005
    Location:
    right here
    Go down to your local hardware store and buy a container, usually quart size, and pour it straight into the core, no diluting needed. Let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes the drain and flush. Repeat 2 or 3 times if you're getting lots of gunk out of the core. Flush with clean water before reinstalling. You'll be amazed at how well this works. It's much better than using a standard radiator flush from Pep Boys or NAPA.
     
  6. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew On the way there SILVER Star

    Messages:
    15,525
    Likes Received:
    4,499
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2003
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Have you done this on your FJ60? The reason I ask is that this is a bear of a job and you practically have to take the entire dash apart to get to it. There are no hoses behind the dash-only metal pipes. Be very careful with those pipes as they are fragile and there are no more in Toyota's inventory. I would make real sure that you have the upper gasket on the thermostat before I tore out the heater core. You might be able to flush it out in-situ if you are willing to flush the entire system. Seriously, though, check that upper gasket on the thermostat.
     
  7. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,929
    Likes Received:
    49
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2003
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Also make sure the heater control valve (near the fire wall) is operating correctly.
     
  8. reece

    reece

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2002
    Location:
    Juneau, AK
    definitely have the upper gasket on the tstat, replaced that this spring, hoping that it was the problem

    and... where exactly "near the firewall" is the heater control valve....
    -m
     
  9. Mark W

    Mark W

    Messages:
    6,202
    Likes Received:
    120
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    The Greatland
    In the FJ60 it is better to flush the heater system in place. Done it a few times. DON'T introduce muriatic to the cooling system in its entirity. It attacks AL viciously. It'll damage your water pump. It will not hurt your heater and it WILL do a great job of cleaning it out.


    Mark...
     
  10. reece

    reece

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2002
    Location:
    Juneau, AK

    ok. so, not to be annoying, but could you give a quick description on how exactly to do this? either here or pm would be fine!

    thanks!

    -m
     
  11. Mark W

    Mark W

    Messages:
    6,202
    Likes Received:
    120
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    The Greatland
    Disconnect your heater goses at the junction at the rear of the engine bay. Add a couple of long hoses to facilitate getting fluids in and out of the core. (since you are only wanting to clean out the front heater you can also isolate those hoses from the rear heater.

    Stick a funnel into one of the hoses you have added and (after draining the heater) pour in the acid. Let it sit. Drain. Flush. Repeat.

    If you run the hose you are draning with, under the rig into a container, it is a lot neater than running over the fender. You don't want the acid on your clothes or the rig's paint. It itches and burns a little on your skin too.
    Compressed air may help when draining. If you don't have air, you can use something as simple as a bicycle pump with a piece of plastic bag wrapped around the end of the line to sorta seal it to the heater hose.

    Don't do it outside in subzero weather. The water will freeze in the heater core during the flushing process, complicating things significantly. :(


    Mark...
     
  12. reece

    reece

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2002
    Location:
    Juneau, AK
    thanks for the flushing tips. one other thing, should the piston of the heater control valve move when i change the switch inside from cool to hot? i'm starting to think this may be a significant part of my problem.
     
  13. LoneRanger

    LoneRanger

    Messages:
    3,067
    Media:
    1
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    152
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2005
    Location:
    on stage

    The arm on the HCV should move with the heat adjust lever about 1 1/2" in and out. This moves the piston across the valve opening to allow or restrict flow. I replaced mine recently. PO had removed it entirely and hooked the hoses straight in so the "heat" was on all the time. 'Cept there was no heat cause the upper thermostat gasket was missing, I presume not sending enough liquid to the heater core. After questioning this forum I put in a Toyota thermostat with a new upper and lower (paper) gasket and now my heater pumps out copious amounts of warm air. I have to set the lever a little off to the right because it starts to get too warm. We have tempuratures ranging from 30- 50 at the moment. I am warm and happy in my 60.

    bh
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2005
  14. 77TLCFJ40

    77TLCFJ40

    Messages:
    5,734
    Likes Received:
    855
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Location:
    Madison, MS
    I have a heater control valve and the complete hard and soft lines from the Y at the firewall to the rear heater from an '88 FJ62 that had 108K. Have the rear heater as well. Anyone need these?

    Lash
     
  15. sl33py

    sl33py

    Messages:
    2,160
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
    Location:
    Emerald City
    My front heater works fine (i am still planning on doing a flush - sounds like a good idea).

    but my rear heater doesn't blow any warm air. I have the lever on it set to hot.

    this is on the 87 60 if that helps. thoughts?

    TIA
    rob
     
  16. sl33py

    sl33py

    Messages:
    2,160
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
    Location:
    Emerald City
    anyone?... bueller?
     
  17. coldinalaska

    coldinalaska

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2005
    make sure the thermostat is installed the correct direction.
     
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.