Its been about 6 month since the 4BD1-t conversion and I must say I was a little sad regarding my conversion decision due to a vibe I had in the drive train. I finally found it addressed the problem ( removed weight attached to flex plate) and I got to tell you I havent been happier with this rig even though I'm using a TH400. Listen learned remove the balance weight from the flex plate before installing it on your rig, it doesent require it. Now it pures like a kitten, pulls like a mule and starts up every time even in the middle of winter (top of the world) with no problems. Two big big thumbs up.
isuzu 4BD1T swap?!
- Thread starter orangefj45
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Is that the Isuzu flex plate or the GM?
Its a Chevy flex plate 6 bolt that was for a 350. Regardless what flex plate wither GM or Chevy you buy, you have to take off the welded on weight. If you don't you will experience crazy vibes ( not GOOD) that will eventually cause significant engine/drive train premature wear. If you notice the 7th hole in the flex plate (dowl guide) it is used to align the flex plate to the Chevy or GM crank so that the crank is balanced with the f.plate. In our case it's not required. Hope this helps...
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
got a link or name to search .. ?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
thanks .. that's what I call loud !!!!
Help
I ended up pushin the 4bd back 4" and need to get the driveshafts chopped. The shop I took it to in Asheville (smallish town) are scratching their heads. They say the shafts from my '91 TLC are an odd size from other toy and other metric and that they do not have the right size tubing. They say they could work around this if they could get other flanges but Toy does not sell them and their other supplier either. Can people who have had their fj80 shafts altered chim in.
I ended up pushin the 4bd back 4" and need to get the driveshafts chopped. The shop I took it to in Asheville (smallish town) are scratching their heads. They say the shafts from my '91 TLC are an odd size from other toy and other metric and that they do not have the right size tubing. They say they could work around this if they could get other flanges but Toy does not sell them and their other supplier either. Can people who have had their fj80 shafts altered chim in.
find another driveshaft shop. I have never had an issue. Just retubed shafts on my 1994. He was able to use thicker then stock tube for a little bit more strength.
thread resurrection -- progress with A440F?
Hi all, has anyone made progress or actually done an A440F behind a 4BD1T? Very curious, as this is what I want to do, and I'm about to redo my 440F with parts from Rodney in Oz. I want to use this same transmission/t-case when I do my diesel swap (and want to use the 4BD1T). I know there are drawings throughout this thread and talk of getting adapters made. Is anyone taking orders?
Regards
Hi all, has anyone made progress or actually done an A440F behind a 4BD1T? Very curious, as this is what I want to do, and I'm about to redo my 440F with parts from Rodney in Oz. I want to use this same transmission/t-case when I do my diesel swap (and want to use the 4BD1T). I know there are drawings throughout this thread and talk of getting adapters made. Is anyone taking orders?
Regards
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a440f auto transmission behind a diesel!
the two have different bolt patterns for sure. you need to build a plate, similar to the isuzu diesel swapper, but i do not have accurate measurement equipment for this. good luck if you take this on, i have a spare a440f trans out of my landcruiser if you need one for measuring, prior to pulling yours out.
the two have different bolt patterns for sure. you need to build a plate, similar to the isuzu diesel swapper, but i do not have accurate measurement equipment for this. good luck if you take this on, i have a spare a440f trans out of my landcruiser if you need one for measuring, prior to pulling yours out.
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1988 tlc with isuzu diesel - running great
it has been awhile since i have posted any thing, but i have been doing some small tweaks on my fj62, and getting it out and using it!
My latest addition was a new turbo, which I posted earlier in this string. This turbo has helped a lot in getting power out of the small 4bd1t. i have also had to replace the radiator awhile back, the old one had holes, and leaking in the core.
I have been driving on many roadtrips, taking the truck into the uintas mountains shown here. also drove it up to the Gros Ventre range in WY, to elk hunt this fall. it pulls great in the mountains, first gear, 4wd it can pull anything. i have not had in 4wd-lowrange yet. i can imagine it will be a stump puller.
It has been a great rig, and settling in to the conversion. I have wished for more power. I did some mods to my 1996 dodge cummins, altering the governor, and the cam plate that controls fuel flow. the results were amazing!
so i gave the isuzu more fuel. Turning the screw on the side, counterclockwise, one full turn, has made the engine so responsive! it has more boost, and more power. i have to really watch the EGT gage however on the hills. i can easily get to 1200F and need to back off, or shift to third.
I need an intercooler! the conventional intercooler looks like it can be an option, but has any one done a hoodscoop style? similar to subaru turbos, with a smaller cooler, that get freestream air at the top of the engine?
it has been awhile since i have posted any thing, but i have been doing some small tweaks on my fj62, and getting it out and using it!
My latest addition was a new turbo, which I posted earlier in this string. This turbo has helped a lot in getting power out of the small 4bd1t. i have also had to replace the radiator awhile back, the old one had holes, and leaking in the core.
I have been driving on many roadtrips, taking the truck into the uintas mountains shown here. also drove it up to the Gros Ventre range in WY, to elk hunt this fall. it pulls great in the mountains, first gear, 4wd it can pull anything. i have not had in 4wd-lowrange yet. i can imagine it will be a stump puller.
It has been a great rig, and settling in to the conversion. I have wished for more power. I did some mods to my 1996 dodge cummins, altering the governor, and the cam plate that controls fuel flow. the results were amazing!
so i gave the isuzu more fuel. Turning the screw on the side, counterclockwise, one full turn, has made the engine so responsive! it has more boost, and more power. i have to really watch the EGT gage however on the hills. i can easily get to 1200F and need to back off, or shift to third.
I need an intercooler! the conventional intercooler looks like it can be an option, but has any one done a hoodscoop style? similar to subaru turbos, with a smaller cooler, that get freestream air at the top of the engine?
has anyone come up with a good place to get an engine assembly? I can't seem to find anything on the west coast, short of a complete vehicle for several thousand $.
Thanks
Jonathan
Thanks
Jonathan
I had a chance to go for a ride in this truck about a year ago. Even before the new turbo and fuel tweak, it was a great running truck and a very professional conversion. If I didn't know better, I would say it was a factory engine. I'm glad to hear that it is still working out for you!
FMI Truck Sales & Service - ISUZU Parts, HINO Parts, and UD Nissan Parts. We Ship Parts Worldwide. Huge Japanese Parts Department.
These guys have a couple acres of wrecked trucks, should be able to help you out.
Sweet, thanks
Jonathan
Jonathan
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diesel conversion - now you need sound deadening
i have taken the landcruiser on a couple road trips this fall - up to the gros ventre range in Wyoming, and to the east end of the Uintas mountains in eastern Utah. the landcruiser with the isuzu diesel has been doing great.
i recently turned up the fuel, and that made so much difference! the extra power now provides that needed acceleration - to get to speed, to get up and over that hill easily, or to pass or increase speed. prolonged power will raise EGT, but if i watch it on big hills, the rest has been great. I need an intercooler now, and really do like the over the engine style like that on a subaru turbo.
but with these long road trips, the one thing that wears on me is the noise, still just a little loud, grumbly, and at lower speeds vibes and engine noise.
so i took out the interior, seats, carpets, pad, console, side panels, all of it, and then proceeded to add sound dampening. first thing was to remove the asphalt on the floor from the factory. this looked impossible, but with some searching on the forum, was able to discover a cool, cold trick. dry ice, and a rubber mallet. set the dry ice on the asphalt, wait 5 minutes, and then move it out of the way, and whack it. the asphalt breaks in it brittle state, and comes loose in large hand size chunks. floor was clean and ready for some sound deadening materials.
3 materials used:
Constrained layer dampening - to reduce the resonance of large flat panels. applied to floor completely, and side panels, door skins, door panels, and wheel wells.
Closed cell foam - this 1/4" closed cell foam is a decoupler that provides a gap from the vibrating sheet metal, to the Mass Loaded Vinyl layer. see below.
MLV - this is heavy vinyl, .100" thick but was a pound for every square foot. this deadens the noise. applied this to floor, and doors.
i was ignorant of all this acoustic stuff, but check out Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information and this guy has all the stuff you need. a few years ago, he did side by side tests with the others out there... dynamat, and damplifier, etc... if you are a wizard with waybackmachine.com... you can find his studies.
more of the install to come, and the results.
i have taken the landcruiser on a couple road trips this fall - up to the gros ventre range in Wyoming, and to the east end of the Uintas mountains in eastern Utah. the landcruiser with the isuzu diesel has been doing great.
i recently turned up the fuel, and that made so much difference! the extra power now provides that needed acceleration - to get to speed, to get up and over that hill easily, or to pass or increase speed. prolonged power will raise EGT, but if i watch it on big hills, the rest has been great. I need an intercooler now, and really do like the over the engine style like that on a subaru turbo.
but with these long road trips, the one thing that wears on me is the noise, still just a little loud, grumbly, and at lower speeds vibes and engine noise.
so i took out the interior, seats, carpets, pad, console, side panels, all of it, and then proceeded to add sound dampening. first thing was to remove the asphalt on the floor from the factory. this looked impossible, but with some searching on the forum, was able to discover a cool, cold trick. dry ice, and a rubber mallet. set the dry ice on the asphalt, wait 5 minutes, and then move it out of the way, and whack it. the asphalt breaks in it brittle state, and comes loose in large hand size chunks. floor was clean and ready for some sound deadening materials.
3 materials used:
Constrained layer dampening - to reduce the resonance of large flat panels. applied to floor completely, and side panels, door skins, door panels, and wheel wells.
Closed cell foam - this 1/4" closed cell foam is a decoupler that provides a gap from the vibrating sheet metal, to the Mass Loaded Vinyl layer. see below.
MLV - this is heavy vinyl, .100" thick but was a pound for every square foot. this deadens the noise. applied this to floor, and doors.
i was ignorant of all this acoustic stuff, but check out Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information and this guy has all the stuff you need. a few years ago, he did side by side tests with the others out there... dynamat, and damplifier, etc... if you are a wizard with waybackmachine.com... you can find his studies.
more of the install to come, and the results.
power steering clearance?
Can anyone comment on any issues with interference between the Isuzu 4BD1-T and the stock FJ40 steering system? My 1982 has factory power steering, which I would like to retain if possible.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that a sagniaw conversion would be required, but can't remember where. This was supposedly due to the starter interfering?
I have also read that the Isuzu 6BD1 starter (possibly from an industrial application) can be used in place of the 4BD1 starter, which will rotate it to the 2 o'clock position; maybe this would help?
Can anyone comment on any issues with interference between the Isuzu 4BD1-T and the stock FJ40 steering system? My 1982 has factory power steering, which I would like to retain if possible.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that a sagniaw conversion would be required, but can't remember where. This was supposedly due to the starter interfering?
I have also read that the Isuzu 6BD1 starter (possibly from an industrial application) can be used in place of the 4BD1 starter, which will rotate it to the 2 o'clock position; maybe this would help?
