Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (2 Viewers)

[Wheelingnoob]

So todays progress was slow with only about 30min to actually start the disassembly.

I started this morning removing the front driveshaft and going to the dyno. Got there and spent a couple hours moving cars around and getting the truck on the rollers. One on everything was double checked and she was cranked up.



Dyno sheet.



137.5 WHP and 225ft/lbs no too shabby.

I then spent the next 3-4 hours cleaning off the under side of the stuck starting with a hot pressure washer at a car wash. Then a sprinkler under the truck with soak down of simple green. Seemed to get most the trail dirt off as well as some grease.

In the shop for the next couple months. (yes I displaced my dads Porsche )



30 min after getting it in the garage I got this far.



Batteries are also out as well as there boxes.

Tomorrow I hope to get a good amount of progress done.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Today I was able to get the entire front of the truck apart, all the A/C parts out lines ect. Radiator was removed as well as all the stuff attaching the engine down both sides of the engine back to the fire wall. I have about 1/2 day more work to get the engine and trans out.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Very exciting!

 

[61Mk+]

Hello Wheelingnoob,

Isn't that 237 ft/lbs of torque (the more the better)? Or am i reading the graph incorrectly? Fantastic project, by the way.

Cheers, 61Mk+

 

[scottryana]

That peak at the begining of the graph could be a shift or the start of the pull. Not likely there would be a huge drop right there. More likely that 225ft/lbs which holds pretty flat is accurate.

...via IH8MUD app

 

[scottryana]

Edited

...via IH8MUD app

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Ryan is correct that blip at the start of the run is the converter loading up. All runs where done in 2nd gear. The 225ft/lbs is the true torque the blip at the beginning is from not rolling into the throttle it was just pushed to the floor so you get a bit of converter overrun.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Big day yesterday!



Looooong



Got some room to work with now.




Springs out and on the bump stops.



Little bit of wiring to sort trough.....

 

[Dougal]

What angle are those engine mounts on?

 

[gerg]

Wow, that is a lot of motor. Your truck must have jumped up 4 inches minus all that weight. Will you have to redo tranny mounts as well, or just motor? Are you going to leave it full time 4x4, or do a part time thing? Looks like it's really coming along!
g

 

[Wheelingnoob]

What angle are those engine mounts on?

They are at 40*......I know what you are thinking and I plan to check before getting to far a long.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Wow, that is a lot of motor. Your truck must have jumped up 4 inches minus all that weight. Will you have to redo tranny mounts as well, or just motor? Are you going to leave it full time 4x4, or do a part time thing? Looks like it's really coming along! g

Yes the front end raised about 3" once the engine and trans where out. Trans mounts and cross member are staying put. Yes its staying full time 4WD, part of the season I got the truck.

Yep its slowly getting there.

 

[Dougal]

They are at 40*......I know what you are thinking and I plan to check before getting to far a long.

That's what I hoped.

 

[longbow]

Looking good Jeremy!

That would be sweet if you could reuse those factory engine mounts since they're already 40*


I suspect they are too far to the rear, but maybe not.


Have fun!


Don

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Looking good Jeremy! That would be sweet if you could reuse those factory engine mounts since they're already 40* I suspect they are too far to the rear, but maybe not. Have fun! Don

Thanks Don!

Yeah would be fantastic if they worked, I have a feeling they may place the engine too high. But if I need to adjust them a bit its no big deal. One other issue I may have made for my self is I clocked the engine 7* to the passenger side so I would need to adjust the mounts to 47* on the pass side and 33* on the drivers.

Well see how it works out on first test fit.

Today I was able to get the engine bay pressure washed and scrubbed. I also back flushed both heater cores. And removed a bunch more unused heat shields and EFI related parts.

I also quickly dropped the battery boxes back in and placed the rad I plan to use in place to see how its going to work. Looks like its going to be snug with the battery boxes but work fine. My intercooler is going to need some new inlets and outlets but that should not be a big deal. Not going to do anything else with that till I have the engine in its final location.

More progress this week.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Anyone have any input on transmissions filters?

I got a filter last week and am unsure if I want to plumb it in as a bypass filter or a full flow. My concern running it as a full flow is restriction on the cooling circuit. Also possible issues should the filter ever plug.

Running it as a bypass seems to alleviate both concerns. If it plugs its no issue the fluid just flows through the cooler. Also no concern adding more restriction to the cooling circuit. I may need to play around with the return from filter to pan hose size. That will control the flow through the filter. The bypass filter on the engine has a 2-3mm orifice bit it runs 30-80psi. The trans cooler circuit runs maybe 2-5psi so would that mean it needs a larger orifice?

 

[gerg]

Right now im using a magnefine full flow filter. It has a bypass if it plugs. 3mm for a bypass filter is pretty huge. Most I've seen are about 1/2mm but again that was for the engine. Bypass filters work best at very low flow rates as it traps finer particulate. Where we're you going to locate the filter. I thought about putting one right on the tranny as close to the pan as possible.

Correction, my amsoil bypass filter oriface is pretty much a pin hole. It must only filter 100cc/min or something.

 

[wrongway around]

Good to see you ripping along. Hope it all works out smoothly now.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Right now im using a magnefine full flow filter. It has a bypass if it plugs. 3mm for a bypass filter is pretty huge. Most I've seen are about 1/2mm but again that was for the engine. Bypass filters work best at very low flow rates as it traps finer particulate. Where we're you going to locate the filter. I thought about putting one right on the tranny as close to the pan as possible. Correction, my amsoil bypass filter oriface is pretty much a pin hole. It must only filter 100cc/min or something.

Thanks, yeah I think I was off on the bypass orifice size. My worry with the orifice on the trans line is the low pressure, fluid takes the path of lease resistance. Ill have to play with it a bit and see what works best, maybe start at .5mm and go from there. Not that I really have any way to tell if its really working other than cutting the filter after a few 1000kms.

I plan to mount the filter on the frame to reduce vibration from the engine. Thinking just forward of the t case above the front driveshaft (out of line so no contact) there it is out of the way of flying objects. W'll see, I need to get the engine and trans in first then sort the finer details out. I asked about the trans filter setup because I need to get the trans pan modded with a return bung now if I do that.

The one on my engine bypass filter is very small as you said diameter of a pin small.

 

[gerg]

If you could drop your drive shafts or something you could do the filter return to a jug and check flow that way for restrictor sizing while running it in gear. I dunno... Is that a crazy thing to do? Closer to the pan would offer you greater pressure differential which might give you more room to play with. I would think if you were to error on the too little side it would filter better, course you don't want it to filter the full volume once a year or something. Princess actually has a good selection of 10micron filters an housings. Biggies and small ones too. I think their Donaldson or something..... Not power fist brand heh