Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (9 Viewers)

[Muleysam]

Throttle Linkage

Had an idea for the throttle bracket that is up against the firewall, you could move the vertical pivot rod forward about 1.5" so it is up against the intake manifold. That would give you more clearance at full throttle on the bottom side.

Hope that makes sense

 

[Wheelingnoob]

did you know which thread it is .?

I do not, its a course spline non pipe thread though.

Had an idea for the throttle bracket that is up against the firewall, you could move the vertical pivot rod forward about 1.5" so it is up against the intake manifold. That would give you more clearance at full throttle on the bottom side.

Hope that makes sense

That's a brilliant idea, I'll investigate that more tomorrow. Thank you.

 

[Dougal]

I do not, its a course spline non pipe thread though.

M16x1.5 is a standard japanese sensor thread. Mine uses that for all threads on the T-stat housing (four in total).

 

[Wheelingnoob]

M16x1.5 is a standard japanese sensor thread. Mine uses that for all threads on the T-stat housing (four in total).

Mine is the same, wish I could get the other alen head plugs out.

 

[wrongway around]

Can you use isolated heat around the outside threads and use a frozen Allen socket driven by an impact gun back and forth to break the the bond? Or sometimes using a hilti hammer drill with a busted bit hammering the center gets the move it moving. Or using heat to wick the penitrateing oil around much like soldiering.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Can you use isolated heat around the outside threads and use a frozen Allen socket driven by an impact gun back and forth to break the the bond? Or sometimes using a hilti hammer drill with a busted bit hammering the center gets the move it moving. Or using heat to wick the penitrateing oil around much like soldiering.

Yeah tried a combination of hot and cold with my Snap-on impact, problem is the alen plugs cant take a lot of torque and the alen socket started hammering the alen plug almost stripping it. I did try heat and penetrating fluid with little success as well. Problem is the part I am working with is Aluminum and the plug is steel, I do not want to remove the plug and the threads along with it.

Ill maybe give it one more go and see what I can do.

 

[Dougal]

Yeah tried a combination of hot and cold with my Snap-on impact, problem is the alen plugs cant take a lot of torque and the alen socket started hammering the alen plug almost stripping it. I did try heat and penetrating fluid with little success as well. Problem is the part I am working with is Aluminum and the plug is steel, I do not want to remove the plug and the threads along with it.

Ill maybe give it one more go and see what I can do.

Just heat it. Aluminium thermal expansion is ~3x more than steel. It'll let go before it melts.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Another huge day in my swap progression. I now have the engine sitting on its engine mounts and they turned out really good I think!

Drivers side:



Passenger side (big PITA):



I do have 1.5" of diff pumpkin clearance at full bump. Cant see a 2" tall bump stop compressing enough to cause issues with that.

Rear firewall clearance is still tight, I ended up lifting the engine slightly and moving it 3/4" more too the passenger side. So that did not help my throttle clearance. I'm going to to try what was suggested and move my throttle 1.25" forward that should give me the clearance I need. Everything else fits great, no issues with starter or turbo I have lots of room on that side. Oil filters clear the front driveshaft at full bump and the engine mount. Everything fits about as good as I could have hoped.

I ended up settling on 5* tilt to the pass side as the ideal position for my engine. 7* was needlessly far over and it made making the throttle clear next to impossibly with out lowing the engine a lot!





The engine is also tilted back about 1.5*

Tomorrow I plan to go over it all with fresh eye's and make sure I have not overlooked anything.

 

[wrongway around]

Minor, but is there enough bit for your alternator? Looks like your setup for a second belt on the top three already.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Minor, but is there enough bit for your alternator? Looks like your setup for a second belt on the top three already.

Yeah Im a bit worried about how much bite the belts have on the alternator as well. That is the setup that this engine came with though. I do have room to get longer belts to angle the alternator away from the block a bit. That would give my more wrap all be it minor. I actually plan to take that A/C compressor off there and put my York OBA compressor there instead.

Its set up for dual belts and I plan to use two, just have one on now for mock up.

That will all come later though.

 

[Dougal]

Have you got enough room to wrap one belt around the alternator, crank and water pump (factory style) and another from the crank, alternator or wp to the ac compressor?

Right now that looks very wrong. Does anyone else own a similar setup? Mine runs the ac compressor below the alternator and a seperate belt from crank to AC.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Have you got enough room to wrap one belt around the alternator, crank and water pump (factory style) and another from the crank, alternator or wp to the ac compressor? Right now that looks very wrong. Does anyone else own a similar setup? Mine runs the ac compressor below the alternator and a seperate belt from crank to AC.

Yeah my father had mentioned running a belt for the alternator from the WP and crank. Then run the other of the two over all the above and the A/C. Only thing I'm not sure about is tensioning both belts evenly. Because in this setup the alternator is the tensioner.

Going to have to take a look at it a bit closer. Not too keen on changing it all around to return it to the factory way of mounting. This way must have worked because it looks to have been on there a very long time. I can run longer belts and tilt the alternator out a long ways. Hopefully that would get more wrap on the alternator.

 

[Dougal]

How hard to turn the AC mount into a tensioning mount?

 

[Wheelingnoob]

How hard to turn the AC mount into a tensioning mount?

Not sure I understand? Make the A/C unit pivot to tension the belt? Not hard if that's what you are asking.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

So today was a day of test fitting everything that may possibly be an issue. Meaning everything that bolts into the engine bay near the engine.

Started with the hood.

I have 2" to the hood skin and 1.25" to the brace. Should be lots.



I then moved onto the heater control valve.



Have ok room there, will make the intake pipe a bit tricky. But I should be able to manage.



Then air box, this is one part I do not want to sacrifice. Good flow, great filtering. I have a clearance problem here, its hard up against the air box.



My solution to that was to try and manipulate the filter head to give me some clearance. I removed the rear of the two bolts holding it into the mount then loosened the hard lines. From there I was able to gently move and bend the lines as I went. I ended up with about 3/4 of and inch clearance and can go more if its still a problem.







I still plan on making a proper bracket for it but this will do for now. I may remote mount it all together if I end up making a custom large chamber intake manifold down the road.

From there I looked at my throttle clearance issues. I took the bracket off and was able to move the throttle arm ahead 1" total. Any further I would run out of flat area to to drill and the arm would foul on the #4 injector. That one inch and the corresponding shortening of the rod from throttle arm to pump gave me the room I needed. Great Idea BTW!



You can also see my kick down cable loosely hooked up. I just need to make a bracket to hold the other end.



I worked on the thermostat housing plug and heat did the trick. Got the old steel plug out and test fit the factory Toyota 108c A/C overheat kill switch. It turns off the A/C when the coolant temp gets to 108c, nice feature to have.




From there I looked at what was going to be involved with mounting my A/C compressor on the passenger side of the engine. Unfortunately in my setup its not. There simply is no room to mount it, use the air box and run an intercooler pipe. They all 3 want to occupy the same space. So the Isuzu A/C compressor will be used instead and I have to ditch my York endless air quite unhappy about that. Ill have to get a puma or something to replace it later. One benefit of that is there is not a big mess of v belts across the engine.....looking for bright sides here lol.

My spirits where raised when thanks to another thread in the 80 section I now know that getting the stock Cruise control to work will be a pice of cake. Literally all plug and play with 1 wire splice. Very very happy about that. I took out the stock later model cruise module and installed a 91 3FE one I had, it plugged with into the harness and the wires colour matches. The throttle cable will now come from the throttle pedal to the cruise actuator then a 2nd cable will go to the throttle on the engine. Super clean and stock reliability. I love the fact that even this Lexus LX450 was build modularly to allow mechanical non ECU driven engines to work with all the features thank you Toyota!

So now that I have test fit everything as far as engine clearance and components its onto the next step. Tomorrow I will pull the engine and trans back out. I have one spot in the tunnel I need to clearance for the bell. Then I can finish weld in the engine mounts, also a bit of trimming on them to clean them up as well. Then drill the holes for the bolts and the mounts are done. I need to get my needle scalier in there to clean off the surface rust then a coat of POR15 to seal it all up. I will also dive into the wiring harnesses. I need to remove a ton of EFI related wiring from the engine harness and integrate the later NSS with the early. The later NSS has one less wire because the trans has one lest manual shift point. Im going to try and make the harness so the dash shift indicator is still functional I just need to get the early 3FE PRND32L dash insert. There is also a few wires from the EFI I plan to keep in the harness one set is for the exhaust brake both throttle switch and solenoid, one set for the trans temp sensor for my glowshift gauge then a few spares for future add ons.

 

[mjosoba]

Awesome man! Psyched to see the bit about the cruise.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Awesome man! Psyched to see the bit about the cruise.

Yeah its all covered in the thread in the 80 section By mtntoy LX450 1HZ swap thread.

 

[Dazed]

Then air box, this is one part I do not want to sacrifice. Good flow, great filtering. I have a clearance problem here, its hard up against the air box.

I shortened the legs of my air box about half an inch, did the trick.

Also, my alternator is on the bottom and AC up top. I have same issues with the belt bends. I run one belt that is only to the alt and one that goes to the AC (not hooked up right now....that's another project). I use the AC to tension. It needs retentioning from time to time and I need to work on that, but it seems to be charging and doing just fine.

Keep up the awesome work.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I shortened the legs of my air box about half an inch, did the trick. Also, my alternator is on the bottom and AC up top. I have same issues with the belt bends. I run one belt that is only to the alt and one that goes to the AC (not hooked up right now....that's another project). I use the AC to tension. It needs retentioning from time to time and I need to work on that, but it seems to be charging and doing just fine. Keep up the awesome work.

Thanks Dazed.

My air box is mounted differently than the 60 series. Its bolted down to the fender well in 3 different spots making it very difficult to move. Moving the filter was much easier.

I know I had seem my A/C alternators arrangement somewhere in the past. I will try and make the A/C compressor mount adjustable to tension the belt. Then just run one belt on both and one just on the alternator. Still keep the redundancy that way.

 

[Dougal]

Not sure I understand? Make the A/C unit pivot to tension the belt? Not hard if that's what you are asking.

Yes, exactly that.
With two tensioners, you can then run belts a multitude of different ways.