Is your radiator overflow tank level dynamic? (1 Viewer)

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Interesting.
Folks, thanks for educating me on this.
I have to admit, someone (who ought to does know) told me it works this way, but I was dubious. (shhh, he may be listening)

Other goings on with the cooling system confused things.
1) There were a couple of not so obvious low level seeps at slightly loose hose clamps.
Seemed like coolant consumption. Not - just loss. All tight now.
2) My truck runs hot and variable - bordering on overheating.
With hot weather coming on, we'll see if it gets bad. TBD

I'm told (same individual) that a lot of Landcruisers just normally run hot.
Nothing at all is wrong. Don't worry - be happy. Just drive it.

Hmm. It still bugs me. There has to be a reason. Why some and not others?

Summing up all the stories I read here, I'd say there are 2 kinds of trucks.
1) Practically never gets over 195F, no matter what. These guys have all kinds of radiators, BTW.
2) Runs hot and variable. 210-220 not uncommon under load. Nothing wrong and no apparent cause.

I have both 0.9 bar (13psi) and 1.1 bar (16psi) pressure caps.
I also have a coolant system pressure gauge so I can watch exactly what it does. It does a lot of things.
1 mile after cold start, about 155F, the system is already hitting pressure limit and pushing coolant out.
Both caps work as advertised. Either 12.5 or 15.5psi peak pressure is what I see. Over and over.

Even more interesting - It "breathes" under steady state conditions.
Cruising along the freeway, completely warmed up, flat ground, system pressure and temperature rise and fall together.
No obvious reason why it decides to rise and fall.
Pressure will hit peak for couple of minutes, then slowly drops to about 2/3 peak, stay there for a while, then repeat.
Emphasizing that high pressure and high temp go together.

Took a test drive last Sunday here in Phoenix, late afternoon, sun falling. HWY 60 east, 202 northwest, Beeline Hwy north.
Temperature about 103F and probably dropped to 98 or so during the drive. Pretty warm but not extreme.
1.1 bar pressure cap installed.
213F at 11psi, 218F at 15.5psi. Cycling up and down.
Temp peaked at 222F after slowing down to turn around after a higher load uphill section.
That seems to be stored heat showing as higher temperature for a couple of minutes with reduced airflow.
It slowly drops down to 195 or less at idle with A/C on, given a few minutes.

Another thing - Air conditioning cutoff.
My Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Cut Switch turns off the A/C at 220F, and back on at 218F.
The FSM says it should cut off at 226F and back on at 217F (with hysteresis).
May have to replace it because it normally runs in that range and I loose A/C.

EDIT p.s. All of this behavior was with a CSF 2517 all brass radiator, in good shape.
Later, changed to a TYC 1918 aluminum / plastic tank radiator - the pressure vs temperature behavior changed signifigantly, even when just warming up, well below normal thermostat opening temperature. Also, overflow tank level became much less dynamic. It didn't push coolant out into the tank until the engine was good and hot, ambient conditions were hot, and higher heat load.
 
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Interesting.
Folks, thanks for educating me on this.
I have to admit, someone (who ought to does know) told me it works this way, but I was dubious. (shhh, he may be listening)

Other goings on with the cooling system confused things.
1) There were a couple of not so obvious low level seeps at slightly loose hose clamps.
Seemed like coolant consumption. Not - just loss. All tight now.
2) My truck runs hot and variable - bordering on overheating.
With hot weather coming on, we'll see if it gets bad. TBD

I'm told (same individual) that a lot of Landcruisers just normally run hot.
Nothing at all is wrong. Don't worry - be happy. Just drive it.

Hmm. It still bugs me. There has to be a reason. Why some and not others?

Summing up all the stories I read here, I'd say there are 2 kinds of trucks.
1) Practically never gets over 195F, no matter what. These guys have all kinds of radiators, BTW.
2) Runs hot and variable. 210-220 not uncommon under load. Nothing wrong and no apparent cause.

I have both 0.9 bar (13psi) and 1.1 bar (16psi) pressure caps.
I also have a coolant system pressure gauge so I can watch exactly what it does. It does a lot of things.
1 mile after cold start, about 155F, the system is already hitting pressure limit and pushing coolant out.
Both caps work as advertised. Either 12.5 or 15.5psi peak pressure is what I see. Over and over.

Even more interesting - It "breathes" under steady state conditions.
Cruising along the freeway, completely warmed up, flat ground, system pressure and temperature rise and fall together.
No obvious reason why it decides to rise and fall.
Pressure will hit peak for couple of minutes, then slowly drops to about 2/3 peak, stay there for a while, then repeat.
Emphasizing that high pressure and high temp go together. This seems counter-intuitive.

Took a test drive last Sunday here in Phoenix, late afternoon, sun falling. HWY 60 east, 202 northwest, Beeline Hwy north.
Temperature about 103F and probably dropped to 98 or so during the drive. Pretty warm but not extreme.
1.1 bar pressure cap installed.
213F at 11psi, 218F at 15.5psi. Cycling up and down.
Temp peaked at 222F after slowing down to turn around after a higher load uphill section.
That seems to be stored heat showing as higher temperature for a couple of minutes with reduced airflow.
It slowly drops down to 195 or less at idle, given a few minutes.

Another thing - Air conditioning cutoff.
My Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Cut Switch turns off the A/C at 220F, and back on at 218F.
The FSM says it should cut off at 226F and back on at 217F (with hysteresis).
May have to replace it because it normally runs in that range and I loose A/C.
I'd replace the thermostat with oem. Sounds like it's faulty. I had an aftermarket that was supposedly 180. My truck would run at 217 sitting still, 206 cruising. New thermostat, sitting still 194 max, cruising 184.

I'd say your pressure drop and rise are from the thermostat opening and closing incorrectly just a thought
 
Any weeps at a hose connection should be investigated - the hose may need to be replaced as they break down from the inside over time but also the lower radiator hose particularly gets a lot of exposure to 'stuff' off the road.

A simple visual check on all coolant hoses plus a quick snug up of clamps that need snugging up is a good regular service policy.

if there isn't actually a problem with the motor itself, having good OEM radiator, water pump, thermostat and fan clutch provides the best setup for cooling. Do not believe that the 'blue' Toyota fan clutch is the only answer - get the latest revision of the proper one specified for the diesel or petrol 80 series motor, and combine that with a new genuine radiator, good fan shroud and good fan itself (try to not use the aftermarket fan blade assemblies).

For my 1hz motor, the latest revision I could find of the fan clutch is 16210-17021. I don't know what the p/n is for the applicable fan clutch for 1fzfe motors.
 
Another side note just for fun - OBD2 sensors.
Truck completely at ambient, sitting all day, late afternoon, back porch thermometer says 103F.
Immediately on startup -
WT = 103F
IAT = 103F
I call that remarkably well calibrated. Better than expected agreement.
 
My coolant level when fully cold in the am is a couple inches above the low mark.

A couple of times this month I’ve found the cold level at a couple of inches above full. Random. Once I sucked out some coolant cold to get back to a bit above the low mark. Checked a few weeks later randomly in the am cold and it’s again back to well above max.

Any idea what’s going on?

29E00338-5296-4D51-A8E9-829AF851EEB5.jpeg
 
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My coolant level when fully cold in the am is a couple inches above the low mark.

A couple of times this month I’ve found the cold level at a couple of inches above full. Random. Once I sucked out some coolant cold to get back to a bit above the low mark. Checked a few weeks later randomly in the am cold and it’s again back to well above max.

Any idea what’s going on?

View attachment 2159648
Change your radiator cap and the hose from the filler neck to the overflow tank. Either the cap is not opening on the vacuum (cool) side or the hose is sucking clean air back in and not able to draw the coolant from the overflow tank back into the radiator.

Also check the orientation of the cap on your overflow tank. You may have the hoses reversed. The hose from the radiator MUST be on the same side as the hose that goes into the bottom of the overflow tank. If it is on the top vent side, then the radiator will push fluid out, but cannot suck it back in, thus resulting in a constantly "filling" overflow tank.

I'll bet if you check the actual level in your radiator you will find it low. When cold and off, it should be full right to the the bottom edge of the filler neck where the cap seats.
 
Also check the orientation of the cap on your overflow tank. You may have the hoses reversed. The hose from the radiator MUST be on the same side as the hose that goes into the bottom of the overflow tank. If it is on the top vent side, then the radiator will push fluid out, but cannot suck it back in, thus resulting in a constantly "filling" overflow tank.

I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you please detail it out a bit further if it's not too much trouble?

Cap and rad are darn new OEM. IIRC, last time this happened, I checked under the cap and it was full to the brim. Will check again tomorrow AM.
 
I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you please detail it out a bit further if it's not too much trouble?

Cap and rad are darn new OEM. IIRC, last time this happened, I checked under the cap and it was full to the brim. Will check again tomorrow AM.

OK. Go to PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

for the detail

Hose 16470R (9044512078) comes from the radiator fill neck and pushes fluid out to the cap on the overflow bottle, part 16471(1640566020).

You will notice that there is a short tube molded into that cap that points INTO the overflow tank. Hose 16470A (9044512078) is a short piece of hose that slides onto that cap and inserts down into the tank as a pick up tube. This hose is on the same "circuit" as the hose from the radiator.

Hose 16472 (8533870100) hose goes from the overflow cap and vents to atmosphere. There is not hose on the inside of the cap for this port, it is only a hole at the top of the tank.

If this cap is turned around and hose 16472 (8533870100) is attached to the port that has the long hose down inside the overflow tank, then the hose 16470R (9044512078) will only suck from the very top of the tank, and will suck in air only back to the radiator as the radiator cools down.

There is another thread on here that shows it, but I couldn't find it in a brief search.

Think of it like this:

You stick your straw into your McDonalds cup. If you push the straw all the way to the bottom and suck, you'll get a drink. If you pull the straw up so the end of the straw is just under the lid, and suck, you won't get anything because it will just suck air because there is less resistance.

HTH.

1576685245027.png
 
I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you please detail it out a bit further if it's not too much trouble?

Cap and rad are darn new OEM. IIRC, last time this happened, I checked under the cap and it was full to the brim. Will check again tomorrow AM.

Make sure your hoses are routed correctly.

OFR1.jpg
OFR2.jpg
OFR3.jpg
OFR4.jpg
 
Cap is definitely oriented correctly based on the writing on cap.

IMG-2997.jpg


Looks like the hoses are all there except I am missing that vent tube for whatever reason.

IMG-2998.jpg


IMG-2999.jpg


My shop guy was kind enough to give me this cap, but I'm just going to order the whole setup new OEM.

IMG-3001.jpg


Thanks for the details and the photos!
 
If I was to blame anything, I would blame the radiator cap on there for not properly opening for the vacuum to pull fluid back in.

I can't believe you don't have a Toyota cap on it!
 
Also if the hose inside the expansion tank is degraded it could leak, meaning there isn't enough vacuum to pull the coolant back into the radiator. That's what happened to mine, I replaced the whole expansion tank, hose and radiator cap and it works like it should now.
 
If I was to blame anything, I would blame the radiator cap on there for not properly opening for the vacuum to pull fluid back in.

I can't believe you don't have a Toyota cap on it!

Lol you know me internet well.

It’s the cap that came with the OEM radiator I bought thru Norwalk Toyota.

I’ll put that senkei one on and see if that fixes the issue.

I actually ordered the reservoir assembly pack plus an OEM cap to replace the sankei one earlier this day to do what zack did.


$104 picked up

16470-66020
 
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When will I know the cap was the problem or not? I just put the new cap before driving out to grab dinner. Coolant level was topped off in radiator even with the tank well above high mark.

Checked just now parked / tank is still well above the high mark.
 
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When will I know the cap was the problem or not? I just put the new cap before driving out to grab dinner. Coolant level was topped off in radiator even with the tank well above high mark.

Checked just now parked / tank is still well above the high mark.

When the engine cools (to ambient temp) the radiator will create a slight vacuum that will draw some amount of coolant from the overflow/expansion bottle back into the radiator. You can use a black magic marker to make a mark on the coolant level in the overflow one morning before you start the vehicle.

Use that as a visual guide to confirm that you are seeing thermal expansion and cooling (meaning your radiator cap is working), but also insure that the cap on your overflow bottle is not obstructed (or the hose from the radiator to that cap).
 
I Can't believe its not a OEM cap either ?

probably the cause , maybe .......




 

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