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You have to remove the head to get the piston and rod out. You can’t get them out from the bottom.
Is this rod knock?
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Right ... but I still don't understand why the head would need to be machined to solve a wrist pin issue. Maybe he just meant "while you're in there you may as well do that too".
The wrist pin and piston would have to be replaced. You can't bore the piston hole out to a bigger size or bush it back to factory, the piston has to be replaced. If memory serves, the F motors used a split small end of the rod with a bolt that holds the wristpin in. If that came loose, egg shaped etc, the rod has to be replaced as well. If you have the head off, you should take the time, if possible, to have it checked out. Sucks to put a warped head back on and have it blow a head gasket a month after you fixed a wrist pin, aka Gudgeon Pin for the non-american's out there... Wise money would also throw a 3-angle valve job in the mix if you have the funds and time. Might pick up several horsepower and clean up any emission or compression issues you might have on that old motor by cleaning up the seats.
- Thread starter
- #64
Well, despite no glitter in my oil change a few weeks ago I got a Blackstone report back and it's not great. Looks like both coolant and a lot of wear metal in the oil.
And no my oil change interval wasn't that long. I didn't send them oil in between and they're using my mileage from the last time I sent it in.
And no my oil change interval wasn't that long. I didn't send them oil in between and they're using my mileage from the last time I sent it in.
- Thread starter
- #65
And yes, as soon as I get time I am pulling the oil pan. I'll have a new gasket, FIPG, and Plastigage on hand. Just haven't gotten the time yet and I'm driving the truck for now.
- Thread starter
- #66
I have a rebuilt head sitting on a shelf in my shop. I had it done a year and a half ago for a different FJ60 that I ended up selling. So at least I've got that.
Looks like it's time for a new or rebuilt shortblock. If you have coolant in there, it's coming from somewhere. Most likely headgasket, but could be other sources like a cracked head. All that bearing material isn't a good sign either. Copper, lead, iron, chromium = hard part wear.
ever figure this out?
- Thread starter
- #69
10K trouble-free miles later …
Noise still comes and goes, along with a worsening exhaust leak I can’t find, and very rough starts when it’s cold outside - lots of misfiring for about three minutes.
Currently rebuilding a spare transfer case onto a spare H42. When I swap it in, I’m going to do the clutch and rear main. I want to do the rear main the “easy” (or is it hard?) way so I’ll drop the oil pan. Perfect time to check out the lower end. That will likely be in the next 4-6 weeks.
- Thread starter
- #71
I did one more and it was horrible “accelerated wear” and so forth. In addition to the spare head that’s ready to go, I’m in the process of tearing down a 2F that I need to get to the machine shop. All things in time.Nice glad to hear it.
Do any more Blackstone reports?
keep us posted
Following. Rebuilt head and a spare block getting reworked - we're doing the same thing haha. Building up a spare power plant takes a bit of the "worry" out, I suppose, at least for me. If you've not noticed any appreciable change in 10k miles, are you then just planning to run it till you pull it and replace the engine? That's essentially what I'm doing, not that mine is making any oddball sounds at this point though.
Will be interesting to learn what that noise is. Like a few others mentioned - sounds like lifter/pushrod to me.
- Thread starter
- #73
That’s the plan, work on getting another 2F ready and just keep running this one.
Leading theories on the noise are that the thrust washer on the cam shaft are itself, so now the cam is moving fore/aft, bouncing against the front or rear of the block. Or, one of the top bell housing bolts is barely loose, creating a very tiny gap. The bellhousing then chatters against the block.
But really it could be anything. It’s still loudest near the clutch & flywheel when you take the inspection cover off. Removing belts didn’t cause a change. Stethoscope didn’t pinpoint any one location. I’m hoping this upcoming t-case project reveals something.
