Is something wrong with my balls? (1 Viewer)

[Miescha]

Couldn't help it .

Really though, I'm half-way through the front axle rebuild and I just have a few odd questions that I didn't see covered in the FAQ or any of the other excellent threads here on mud. All is going well, and I'll continue putting it all back without answers, but I'm curious about a few things.

First, I had no need for the 54mm hub socket (though I had one courtesy STLCruiser). Specifically, both hub nuts were so loose I could remove them by hand (after straitening the 'star' locking tab). Is this normal? I did check for play before removing the tires, just so I would know what to look for when I'm done. I was able to 'wobble' both front tires top-to-bottom about 1/8" after lifting the truck.

Second, how do I remove the four steering arm studs on the bottom of the knuckle so I can install the new torx head studs that CDan sent me? It looks like I just grab them with a vise-grips (or an actual stud remover) and slowly twist them out - is there any particular method? Also, is there a consensus on whether lock-tite should be used on the new studs (the threads all ended without a definate consensus - but they are all old, so perhaps there is a concensus now that hasn't been linked)?

Third, my inner birfs look fine I guess, but after cleaning I noticed there is a burnt looking circle about every inch around the outside of the ball. I didn't see this in any of the photos in the FAQ or elsewhere. The marks did not come off by soaking in cleaner (fuel equivelent, but less flammable). Should I try to remove these marks? If so, how? I can't feel them, I can just see them. If it matters, my birf soup was not as bad as some photos I've seen here on mud, but it was pretty soupy. First pic below is the PS, but the DS was about the same. The burnt looking marks are on both Birfs and look identical - almost factory


Fourth, in the second pic below, on the backside of the outer birf (where the sweep seals rub) I notice there are some rough spots that almost look rusty, and other spots that are black (like factory overspray). Should I try to smooth out these areas - if so, how?

Finally, what is the deal with the pink paint mark on the end of both outer axle shafts (see third pic below)? I guess I really did get the package

 

[GXO]

First, I had no need for the 54mm hub socket (though I had one courtesy STLCruiser). Specifically, both hub nuts were so loose I could remove them by hand (after straitening the 'star' locking tab). Is this normal? I did check for play before removing the tires, just so I would know what to look for when I'm done. I was able to 'wobble' both front tires top-to-bottom about 1/8" after lifting the truck.

This is bad. This means the inner nut was too loose, and the outer was not tightened appropriately. The outer should have had resistance.

Second, how do I remove the four steering arm studs on the bottom of the knuckle so I can install the new torx head studs that CDan sent me? It looks like I just grab them with a vise-grips (or an actual stud remover) and slowly twist them out - is there any particular method? Also, is there a consensus on whether lock-tite should be used on the new studs (the threads all ended without a definate consensus - but they are all old, so perhaps there is a concensus now that hasn't been linked)?

Vice grips to remove, get inverted torx to reinsert, use loc-tite. Make sure it is clean of grease, etc.

Third, my inner birfs look fine I guess, but after cleaning I noticed there is a burnt looking circle about every inch around the outside of the ball. I didn't see this in any of the photos in the FAQ or elsewhere. The marks did not come off by soaking in cleaner (fuel equivelent, but less flammable). Should I try to remove these marks? If so, how? I can't feel them, I can just see them. If it matters, my birf soup was not as bad as some photos I've seen here on mud, but it was pretty soupy. First pic below is the PS, but the DS was about the same. The burnt looking marks are on both Birfs and look identical - almost factory

Normal, no worries.

Fourth, in the second pic below, on the backside of the outer birf (where the sweep seals rub) I notice there are some rough spots that almost look rusty, and other spots that are black (like factory overspray). Should I try to smooth out these areas - if so, how?

I used some emory cloth and a small rotary stone to smooth things out a bit, shouldn't really impact anything.

Finally, what is the deal with the pink paint mark on the end of both outer axle shafts (see third pic below)? I guess I really did get the package

Doesn't matter

 

[Cruiserdrew]

That is some nasty birf soup. Good thing you got in there when you did!

It is likely that your wheel bearings are worn and that is why the torque was loose. Check them carefully and maybe replace.

I basically agree with Dan's recs. I have never used locktite, but probably not a bad plan. It would make a trail repair of a broken knuckle stud extremely difficult. Check the torque on the knuckle nuts at each oil change, and daily when 4 wheeling. They seem to break when they get loose first. I put the new studs in tight, but not to super high torque values--maybe 30-40 foot pounds. The nut torque is 71 foot pounds.

I to have used emory paper to smooth a pitted axle ball on a 60 series housing, and it looked a lot worse than that and cleaned up great.

 

[Miescha]

Thanks Dan & Drew. The old studs are actually in there pretty tight - but I guess I don't wheel that hard.

As for the hub nuts, my thinking was that the dealer (who did the two wheel bearing re-packs during the cruiser's life) must not have torqued the hub nuts correctly at the last repack.

I will check the wheel bearings again in an hour or two when I get back out in the shop (after they have soaked in cleaner for a while). Oddly, the wheel bearings looked and felt really smooth and great. The trunion bearings were really stiff and difficult to move. After cleaning (possible trail spares was my thinking) it turns out two of the four had significant bearing damage.

The biggest problem with replacing the wheel bearings at this point is that I did not order them from CDan (on Dan's recommendation - which I think is a good one for a cruiser with 100k miles) and it seems Autozone does not carry the Timkin inner wheel bearing - only the outer wheel bearing and outer race - nothing for the inner. It is very odd and others have said they recently bought the full set 47. Maybe just a St. Louis thing - but they all show the same data on their computers and there is no inner bearing or race (can't even be ordered they say). I guess the cruiser may have to stay on the lift another day if wheel bearings turn out damaged on further inspection.

 

[96r50]

Good timing on this post, I'm starting this today!

Question: Is it better to do one side start to finish and then switch, or to do both sides at the same time?

 

[EricG]

Good timing on this post, I'm starting this today!

Question: Is it better to do one side start to finish and then switch, or to do both sides at the same time?

You can get a little more life out of worn birfs by swapping sides - which means tearing both down at the same time. On the other hand, if you dork something up, it might be nice to have the other side available assembled for reference

 

[fishwater]

when removing 4 knuckle studs, can't you just put a second nut on one of the studs and unscrew it? that's what i did. it would keep from chewing up the threads if you wanted to keep them as spares or something...
j

 

[GXO]

when removing 4 knuckle studs, can't you just put a second nut on one of the studs and unscrew it? that's what i did. it would keep from chewing up the threads if you wanted to keep them as spares or something...
j

True...I try not to use used stuff for spares anymore...but YMMV

 

[subdave]

Miescha -

I'm getting ready to do the same job. When you are done, could you post a time estimate for the job and lessons learned?

Thanks

 

[boydmick]

Miescha -

I'm getting ready to do the same job. When you are done, could you post a time estimate for the job and lessons learned?

Thanks

SoCal80s had a birf party with two first timers.

Brief summary:
Plan on more time than you think you need (we took ~14hrs).
Make sure you have all parts/cleaners/rags etc. before you start (don't forget cotter pins).

See this thread for the whole story.

 

[EricG]

SoCal80s had a birf party with two first timers.

Brief summary:
Plan on more time than you think you need (we took ~14hrs).
Make sure you have all parts/cleaners/rags etc. before you start (don't forget cotter pins).

See this thread for the whole story.

Plan for at least a full weekend your first time - mine took 16+ hours, but I replaced all the bearings, had a bear of a time removing the birf from the axle on one side, ran for parts cuz I bodged up an axle seal (and spare ), and replaced calipers & rotors (had a caliper sieze 2 days before I planned to start the job).

 

[Brentbba]

The inner 54mm nut should be fairly loose, barely hand tight. The 'star' locking nut should have been bent to prevent the two 54mm nuts from moving. The outer nut torque spec is 43 ft lbs IIRC. Double check that with your FSM.

I absolutely agree for a first time to allow for two days to take your time.

Thanks again Boyd for an awesome birf party!

 

[Miescha]

Miescha -

I'm getting ready to do the same job. When you are done, could you post a time estimate for the job and lessons learned?

Thanks

Well, I'm not sure my experience can add much over what so many others have said. But here are a few quick thoughts (pics at the bottom b/c I don't know how to add them in-line with the text).

1) Definately plan on a lot of time, especially if you have to make 'parts runs' alot. I spent just over 5 hours tearing everything down (both sides) and cleaning everything. This seemed like most of it was spent cleaning. I went through the recommended 6 cans of brakeclean and had to run for four more (which I used and had to get four more the next day). I spent another 4 1/2 hours the next day putting everything back together, including new 100 series pads and new 80 series rotors, along with changing one leaking SS brake line on the front DS caliper, and bleeding the system, and also flushing all three diffs. First pic is stuff I started with (brakeclean is on the floor so not in the picture, but I used 14 large cans total). I made four trips to Autozone (brakeclean and extra grease) during the job and one trip to Sears (for flare wrench for the brake line b/c I couldn't find mine).

2) Wear clothes that you can throw away when finished. No joke, I stripped in the garage the first day and the second day I threw my pants and shirt in the trash (I planned for this in advance - so no worries).

3) Have the FSM handy, but also print the entire thread in the faq - I followed it step-by-step and the torque specs listed by CDan make things much faster as you don't need to search through the FSM to find them.

4) Use a lift if at all possible - your back will thanks you and it makes everything easier and faster (see second pic).

5) Don't over-analyze the small stuff. Before starting, I spent nearly a week reading posts about which gear oil to use and which grease to use and where to use moly vs non-moly grease and how much. Just read the FAQ, watch the DVD if you want, and get it done. The guys here on mud are obsessive compulsive and I really respect that - I strive for the same. However, don't stress over it. Plenty of people use the same grease for everything and it probably works just fine (elmariachi used 3% moly Valvoline Palladium for everything in the 'how-to' instructional DVD). My dealer did the previous wheel bearing repack and clearly used a mix of grease or just didn't clean out the old stuff - see pic three for what I found in addition to loose hub nuts.

 

[Miescha]

[continued due to pic limit]

6) Have a friend or other knowledgeable person help/join you. Even if you both are first-timers, it makes the job go faster and less stressful if you can share ideas.

7) Try to do it on the weekend or at least some time when you don't have other committments. I started around 10pm Monday evening (this week) after I finished with my day job and family duties. I worked until 6am and then went home to shower and head to work. I figured 5 1/2 hours of that time was actual dis-assembly b/c the first hour was spent cleaning the old gunk with a power washer at the local car wash before starting and I took one long break to eat and a few other shorter breaks. The next day I started around midnight after finishing my real job duties and family stuff. I finished around 5am but that included two short 1/2 hour breaks so about 4 hours actual time on the project. Then home to shower and head to work without sleep yet again. I crashed Wednesday night when I got home around 10pm - this will make the project less fun.

8) Look around and learn while doing this. I didn't know what half the part were called prior to this job (knuckle, hub, steering arm). I took a few pics of the inner axle just for fun. The first pic below is driver side diff where the axle slides in (hard to see without the zoom and good light). The second pic is the same thing on the PS. The third pic is the PS birf soup I found - pretty ugly stuff, and scary given that I had no noise or clicking.

 

[Miescha]

9) I purchased a cheesy looking 'bearing packer' b/c it was only $20 and I figured it might be worthwhile. Maybe I missed something, but the thing seemed to work pretty darn well. I still packed the bearing by hand afterward, just to be sure, but I think it was pretty much fully packed. First pic is the bearing packer.

10) I can't rationalize doing this job and not changing the rotors and pads (100 series made a big improvement for me). Given the amount of work involved to change the rotors later (and the little extra to do it now), I'd say do it unless they have been changed VERY recently (in which case you should have just done the axle service at that time - dumb*ss ). Plus, the new rotors look really purty (see pic 2 & 3). I also used anti-sieze on the rotor-hub bolts b/c the old ones were harder than heck to get off - even with the impact wrench!

Have fun!

 

[Brentbba]

Awesome write up. I can second the use of the lift you had! My legs hurt for 5 days after that loooong Saturday from getting up and down all day.

 

[96r50]

I just finished my birf job last night, and after two days in the driveway sitting on a milk crate and leaning forward my back is killing me! The pain is worth it though, for the nice clean front axle and the satisfaction of gettin' er done!