Is my THROW OUT BEARING THE WRONG WAY ROUND? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
today I tried the new clutch and it worked except the throw out is making a noise when in engages against the fingers almost like a squeal but not that loud i----t is the front face of the bearing when the spinning fingers on the pressure plate come up against it

I looked at the fingers after trying it a couple times and the tips in the center were discolored blue from heat

Is there a right side and wrong side to the throw out and is mine the right way round?

or will it wear in and stop making noise

all the clutch parts are brand new OEM and the throw out will rotate smoothly
Picture 006.jpg
Picture 005.jpg
Picture 003.jpg
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
still not sure

yours looks a little different than mine but it does appear the smaller side goes toward the hub

mine looks black on the smaller side toward the hub


I am wondering if one side is a special surface as it does not seem right to go metal to metal on a spinning assembly but I dont know?


I am also wondering if it could be an adjustment issue?
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2003
Messages
5,010
Location
Meridian,TEXAS
Clearance......

Sure you have the correct combination of parts here Man?

Looks like theres insufficient clearance between the fork and front brg. retainer (red line in pic)..........:hmm:

Otherwise brg looks correct..........
Picture%20006 copy.jpg
 
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Messages
627
Location
CROFTON BC CANADA
It looks like you have it in right ,However you may have the wrong clutch,maybe you got a short throw presure plate and it rubs when bottomed out.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
1,166
Location
Oregon
Another possiblility is that my old throwout bearing was way different than the one I purchased to replace my 1976 bearing..... The new one is thicker and has a rounded edge on the face vs. the old was flat. I was doing a conversion so I dont know but I think if I wasnt the new bearing would have been to thick?????
 
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
8,871
Location
New Zealand
There definitely is a "right way around". And that looks the "wrong way around" to me.

(But hard to tell for sure.)

The bit that hit the fingers should have a circular "raised ring" around its surface. (Sorry - I'm not describing this well - A crossectional view would show that the surface is convex.)

(That rounded-ring-surface looks to me like it faces the rear in your photos rather than facing the clutch fingers.)

But to put it on the wrong way around you would need to have had your mind in neutral (or drunk way too much beer)! Because when the bearing contacts/hits the fingers the contacting surface must spin with them.

And if it is the wrong way around the non-rotating part of the bearing will hit the fingers (causing wear and noise).
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
surface

The surface towards the pressure plate appears flat but I can not get a good look


this pic shows the black surface towards the hub it is slightly convex

I could not feel any raised portion on either side


the whole thing spins---the black part does not spin by itself

I think this may be a slightly different design but I am afraid it is the wrong way round but I dont want to pully the tranny and flip and find out that is wrong! The manual I have is not a lot of help it has a line drawing that does not really show detail and there is no warning to put it right or wrong way

so what do you think --that black side toward the pressure plate?


I am thinking what a PITA this all was doing by myself ---the seat frame, gas tanks, tunnel tranny arrrrgghhh, they all fought me going in
IMGP2358.JPG
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
Looks like you have a 3spd. pivot ball in a 4spd bell housing ..........


I changed from a 3 speed to a 4 speed and replaced it with new parts all the way through---the throw seems to be okay it will engage and disengage the clutch

cant remember which is which now---short or long for the four speed? I think I tried the old one for S&G's and it didnt work and then I put the one I ordered in




looking at the old hub and throwout it appears the flat side is toward the hub which if this is the same would mean I am the wrong way round

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/245021-pics-oem-p-ns-rear-main-clutch-change.html
IMGP1930.JPG
 
Last edited:

Hugh Heifer

Chasing the Beast
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
7,288
Location
Rome, GA
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
uuuuuhhhhhh? I guess I should of labeled them in the pic:):)


now I am not sure I'll have to have a look now---just looked I have the short one installed so yes that must be the 4 speed one---I would have know at the time with old and brand new parts on hand
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
But to put it on the wrong way around you would need to have had your mind in neutral (or drunk way too much beer)! Because when the bearing contacts/hits the fingers the contacting surface must spin with them.

And if it is the wrong way around the non-rotating part of the bearing will hit the fingers (causing wear and noise).


I am not so sure about the second part cause the whole thing spins together as one but evidence is pointing towards the first part being true:eek:
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
parts

Sure you have the correct combination of parts here Man?



Looks like theres insufficient clearance between the fork and front brg. retainer (red line in pic)..........:hmm:

Otherwise brg looks correct..........

I hope so----I ordered all new OEM from CDAN and nothing seemed odd going together The fork and bearing retainer look different when you slide em forward


Anyone got the same bearing in their's? looks like some think it is okay and some not



Thanks
 
Joined
Oct 31, 2003
Messages
5,010
Location
Meridian,TEXAS
Whatever.........

Need to get your s*** together inside the bell-housing or you'll end up with a bearing like in the pic below.........

Impressions worn into the surface due to miss-configuration (drive-ability problems)......:eek: = short-lived, do it over syndrome........:frown:
DSC01258 (Custom).JPG
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
3,068
Location
Norfolk United Kingdom
Need to get your **** together inside the bell-housing or you'll end up with a bearing like in the pic below.........
Impressions worn into the surface due to miss-configuration (drive-ability problems)......:eek: = short-lived, do it over syndrome........:frown:


Grant

Thanks
Exactly! Just want to be sure what the prob is and for sure dont want to see a $400 job down the drain despite the pain factor. You mentioned the pivot? I have the short one and the hub appears the same as one in the FAQs--that is new too. Are you seeing anything else?


What was misconfigured to cause the TOB damage in your pic---was it in backwards? Pivot?

One more thing---The throw out bearing is supposed to ride free of the fingers? Not up against them and spinning constantly--is that right

I mean i could hear metal spinning on metal as it made contact and it did not sound right plus the blueing on the tips of the fingers---that cant be right either


I have a FSM but it is an older model one--my FJs a 71 but has a 79 drivetrain

THe haynes manual has a blurb saying " ensure that the pressure ring of the hub assy is towards the friction plate when assembled"


so the black part ---is that the pressure ring?


Dargreg

yeah it looks ugly---you sure on the wrong way round? I am inclined to agree but want to be sure and get a few opinions saying the same and make sure I havent overlooked anything ---been 30 years since I seen a clutch out and then I was just helping
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
1,166
Location
Oregon
Ok I hope these help because I walked 4 miles bare foot in 4 feet of snow to get them!! :D

0315091830.jpg

0315091831.jpg

0315091831b.jpg
It is a nice smooth roll off of a factory bearing to the fork side. It is a wierd bump on the side that goes to the disc.. well atleast on a 76 factory one. The short one is for the 4 speed. It sounds like you have plenty of them but if you need another I still owe you a favor. My pics suck but maybe they will help and if not I can get better ones tomorrow. By the way this is the flat bearing that I mentioned in my first post the new one I bought has a weird rounded side like a bump that contacts the fingers and was thicker if I remember right which I thought might help for my conversions POSSIBLE engagement issues.
0315091830.jpg
0315091831.jpg
0315091831b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
329
Location
Franktown, CO
Yes, the throw out bearing should not be touching the clutch fingers when your foot is off of the clutch, otherwise the TO bearing will spin non-stop and wear out prematurely. Make sure you adjust your pedal height and clearance under the dash according to the FSM and then adjust the freeplay of the TO bearing using the rod & nut on the slave cylinder. Also make sure you have a good strong return spring on the lever so it cant let the bearing drag.

Dumb question, but when you reach up in there can you freely spin the TO bearing? It shouldnt spin freely like a bicycle wheel because of the grease in it, but it should be real easy to turn with just a finger. Sometimes the TO bearing will get damaged when its being pressed or pounded onto the carrier.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom