Ironman FCP question (1 Viewer)

[ericm979]

I'm planning on putting FCP suspension on my 2017. I only want to lift it about an inch. I can use some Dobinson rear springs for 1" in the rear and wind the preload adjusters down on the front.

My question is about the panhard bar ("stage 2"). I don't think I'll need the adjustability feature with a 1" lift but do I need the one with bends in it for clearance?

 

[Jstawgn]

Yes you can lower the spring perch.
No need for panhard bar at 1". The one with bend are for KDSS clearance is nice if you want to go longer travel but otherwise not needed at 1" lift.

 

[suitcase]

I have about a 2" lift on my 2017 (Dobinson IMS). The alignment shop I went to (RPM Garage) specializes in lifted trucks and said I didn't really need one with such a small lift.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Im interested to hear how your ride feels unwinding all the way to 1”. It might not be possible. I doubt they add much preload to start with as that would limit droop and adversely effect performance. Its the spring that adds the lift. The adjustable perches are for minor adjustments.

Its a 2-1 ratio with IFS so you’d want to start with the 2.5” spring and then be able to lower the perch .75” to loose 1.5”. Maybe they leave that much thread below the perch?

 

[Rednexus]

The shocks might also be too long for 1" of lift, possibly leading to bottoming out the shocks on compression. I'd suggest asking Ironman tech support before trying these at 1" of lift.

IMO, there really aren't a lot of advantages to just going to 1" - you'll have more clearance and will be operating more within the design range of the FCP shocks if you go with a 2.5"/2.0" lift. And it will still handle and tow better than a stock GX, so you really don't lose much of anything.

 

[jakemccurdy]

IMO, there really aren't a lot of advantages to just going to 1”

Agreed.

 

[r2m]

Just posted on another thread that ARB should be coming out with a new suspension system soon, and I'm sure the 150 series will top their list in the roll out.

 

[ericm979]

The shocks might also be too long for 1" of lift, possibly leading to bottoming out the shocks on compression. I'd suggest asking Ironman tech support before trying these at 1" of lift.

The amount of lift for Toyota IFS is just the static ride height, set with spring preload. It does not change the shock's range of motion. The FCP fronts have 1.2" more extension than stock but compress to the same length as stock. The shocks are not going to bottom out no matter what ride height you set them at. Its the frame bump stop that limits up travel.

I asked Ironman and they said it's "optimized" for 2" of lift but they couldn't tell me what "optimized" means in this context (because the support person isn't a suspension expert). The shocks do not have position-sensitive damping. The only optimization I can think of is selecting compression damping rates so a largish bump hit at speed won't bottom the suspension. Running 1" less lift than they expect would mean 1" less up travel to absorb the bump. But I really doubt that Ironman put in less compression damping than 60k old OEM shocks have and I have no bottoming problems now. And I'll still have 1" more up travel than stock to absorb the bump anyhow. I don't see a problem.

IMO, there really aren't a lot of advantages to just going to 1" - you'll have more clearance and will be operating more within the design range of the FCP shocks if you go with a 2.5"/2.0" lift. And it will still handle and tow better than a stock GX, so you really don't lose much of anything.

Keeping under 2" means I should not need upper control arms with the ball joint pulled back to try to fix the alignment. And I just don't need 2" for my current usage. If my usage changes and I do, I can change rear springs and adjust the shocks (and put on UCAs and get another alignment).

 

[ericm979]

Im interested to hear how your ride feels unwinding all the way to 1”. It might not be possible. I doubt they add much preload to start with as that would limit droop and adversely effect performance. Its the spring that adds the lift. The adjustable perches are for minor adjustments.

Based on other struts I have taken apart I'm pretty confident there's more preload on the spring than I need. There just needs to be enough that the spring's not loose at full extension.

Its a 2-1 ratio with IFS so you’d want to start with the 2.5” spring and then be able to lower the perch .75” to loose 1.5”. Maybe they leave that much thread below the perch?

That's a good point. Looking at the pics more closely it looks like there's about 1/2" of threads below the bottom lock ring. But who knows what preload the pictured shock was set for? They might be shocks they assembled just for the pictures. If I ended up with 1.5" that'd be ok, I just want to stay well below 2".

I took your hint from the video and asked them if I can order it with the TOYO56A rear 1.5" rear springs (waiting for a reply). Thats still taller than I want now but maybe would be useful if I decide to go higher later. And not the 3+" you got. I'm not running much of a load in back and will have less when I remove the 3rd row seats.

If anyone wants to measure their FCPs available threads (with the 2.5" regular weight spring) I'd appreciate it.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Looks like you’ll have the room to give it a shot… Please report back with results.

If it rides like s***, you can always set them back. I think you’d probably be just fine with 2 inches and no UCA but I get it, she’s your baby and you want her the way you want her

 

[Rednexus]

Keeping under 2" means I should not need upper control arms with the ball joint pulled back to try to fix the alignment. And I just don't need 2" for my current usage. If my usage changes and I do, I can change rear springs and adjust the shocks (and put on UCAs and get another alignment).

Certainly feel free to set it at 1" lift, however do realize that the UCAs Ironman sells can come bunded as a pretty good deal, and will keep you future-proofed later on if you do decide to lift more. By the time you buy two sets of rear springs, buy UCAs standalone instead of a bundle, and get another alignment, you will have spent more money (and time re-doing the job) than just getting the kit with the UCAs and setting it at 2" from the get-go. I've personally had to learn that myself re-doing things on my rig where I tried to save some money up-front but end up re-doing stuff and spending more money in the long run than if I had gone all the way at the beginning .

Edit: You'll also need to get the $80 spanner took to adjust the ride height on the FCP shocks. I bought one but have not used it as the shocks come factory-dialed pretty well for the 2.5" front lift. My fronts have sagged a bit so I might bump them up a hair to match the back when I put on 33's next year.

Also they are having a 25% of sale this weekend, so it is a good time to buy this stuff.

 

[ericm979]

Thanks Jake. I'm not trying to save money here, just get it right for my use. I don't need the height and don't want to chase alignment issues. I'd be buying a tool to adjust the preload anyhow because if there's an adjustment I'm probably going to use it. Especially with suspension. I was going to get Dobinson MRRs but I know based on my motorcycles and some cars that I'd be fussing with compression and rebound adjustments for six months before I was settled, I still wouldn't be satisfied and would be tempted to get them revalved. If I get non adjustable shocks I won't be able to do that.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Thanks Jake. I'm not trying to save money here, just get it right for my use. I don't need the height and don't want to chase alignment issues. I'd be buying a tool to adjust the preload anyhow because if there's an adjustment I'm probably going to use it. Especially with suspension. I was going to get Dobinson MRRs but I know based on my motorcycles and some cars that I'd be fussing with compression and rebound adjustments for six months before I was settled, I still wouldn't be satisfied and would be tempted to get them revalved. If I get non adjustable shocks I won't be able to do that.

Choosing fcp’s even without the lift is a good investment and definitely makes sense. I was in a similar thought process before I just gave in and lifted it all the way. I was really worried about my rack in the garage, which is an issue. Luckily, I still clear but have to remove rear eye bolts.

At one point I asked them if we could put stock Prado Springs onto the FCP’s. They said no.

Good luck and feel free to ping me if you run into install snags and want some questionable advice

 

[RG7]

Certainly feel free to set it at 1" lift, however do realize that the UCAs Ironman sells can come bunded as a pretty good deal, and will keep you future-proofed later on if you do decide to lift more. By the time you buy two sets of rear springs, buy UCAs standalone instead of a bundle, and get another alignment, you will have spent more money (and time re-doing the job) than just getting the kit with the UCAs and setting it at 2" from the get-go. I've personally had to learn that myself re-doing things on my rig where I tried to save some money up-front but end up re-doing stuff and spending more money in the long run than if I had gone all the way at the beginning .

Edit: You'll also need to get the $80 spanner took to adjust the ride height on the FCP shocks. I bought one but have not used it as the shocks come factory-dialed pretty well for the 2.5" front lift. My fronts have sagged a bit so I might bump them up a hair to match the back when I put on 33's next year.

Also they are having a 25% of sale this weekend, so it is a good time to buy this stuff.

Sounds like OP isn’t going with UCAs but for anyone looking at Ironman they have an ongoing recall on the ball joints for their UCAs and to my knowledge don’t have a fix yet so I’d stay away from their UCAs for the time being.

No shade at the company, my setup from them has been great so far, just a heads up.

 

[tucsonprerunner]

Sounds like OP isn’t going with UCAs but for anyone looking at Ironman they have an ongoing recall on the ball joints for their UCAs and to my knowledge don’t have a fix yet so I’d stay away from their UCAs for the time being.

No shade at the company, my setup from them has been great so far, just a heads up.

Ya, I just received my recall letter this week. It sounds like they’re doing a solid for their customers and not only replacing the ball joints, but are also paying for the labor for install at a local shop. I guess we’ll see how this pans out…hopefully they kick things into gear soon than later

 

[SpitnTears]

Ya, I just received my recall letter this week. It sounds like they’re doing a solid for their customers and not only replacing the ball joints, but are also paying for the labor for install at a local shop. I guess we’ll see how this pans out…hopefully they kick things into gear soon than later

I got my recall letter too. Anyone know if they are covering alignment as well since suspension parts are getting changed out?

Also, anyone find the rear med springs too soft for the GX? They are fine if the car is empty, but most of my usage has the rear loaded up. I got my Gx weighed at a scale and the rear axle is near 4k lbs. I changed to the heavy springs and still feel like the rear can be firmer.

 

[Rednexus]

Got my recall notice too. I'm very surprised they are swapping out the whole UCA instead of just the UBJ, since a set of 555 UBJs is maybe $100. Hopefully we can keep the old UCAs, if so I'll install a set of 555 UBJ's in them and eBay them.

Ironman will now have replaced the entire front side of the lift I bought in 2021. They did a warranty replacement on my front coilovers earlier this year after the springs started to bow and contact the shock body (resulting in noise and a low front ride height). The new coilovers had a shorter spring and the bottom perch set higher up on the shock body. I also have the spare front Ironman FCP shocks sitting around as well - since they didn't ask for them to be shipped back - those might also be eBayed.

 

[jakemccurdy]

I haven’t got a letter yet but just read the web page and looks like they’re covering alignment as well. For once my lazziness payed off! Mine are still in the box .

 

[Rednexus]

I haven’t got a letter yet but just read the web page and looks like they’re covering alignment as well. For once my lazziness payed off! Mine are still in the box .

It's gonna feel weird letting a shop work on my rig instead of DIY'ing it!

 

[HVLA]

Thanks Jake. I'm not trying to save money here, just get it right for my use. I don't need the height and don't want to chase alignment issues. I'd be buying a tool to adjust the preload anyhow because if there's an adjustment I'm probably going to use it. Especially with suspension. I was going to get Dobinson MRRs but I know based on my motorcycles and some cars that I'd be fussing with compression and rebound adjustments for six months before I was settled, I still wouldn't be satisfied and would be tempted to get them revalved. If I get non adjustable shocks I won't be able to do that.

I have over 10k miles on FCP Stage 1 with no bumper/armor and no adjustable upper control arms and have had zero alignment or other issues.