IPOR skid install

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Hijack

Concretejungle,

Sorry to Hijack your thread. The wheels are Stazworks double beadlocks. They are 2 wheel shells bolted together with an insert inside to hold the tire bead against both the inner and outer bead. The Stazworks wheels have come a long way since I bought mine, they are purpose built now.

Ryan.

Mo, it's probably about the same. It's real tight.

Ryan, what kind of wheels are those on the pig? They look almost like one wheel welded to another. Cool.
 
Mo, it's probably about the same. It's real tight.

Actually I was thinking it is kind of low hanging and could be closer to the case. :D I need to measure it tomorrow.
 
10-4. That's what i was thinking anyways. That shows the reason the stock skid/crossmember is layered. It allows the bolt bottoms to stick out between the two layers of the cross member.

The only other thing i could think of is to cut out a circle of steel and weld it around the bolts. At least that would flush the screw bottoms up with the metal circle....catch my gist?

that plate looks thick enough, why not counter sink the bolts?
you could even use a "cap bolt" one that uses a allen key and has a rounded head.

i don't see a benifit of cutting tube to go around the bolt heads,it's just something else to get hung up on.

KILLER plate other than that.

:)
 
that plate looks thick enough, why not counter sink the bolts?
you could even use a "cap bolt" one that uses a allen key and has a rounded head.

i don't see a benifit of cutting tube to go around the bolt heads,it's just something else to get hung up on.

KILLER plate other than that.

:)

I want to find cap head bolts for mine...I figure it they get marred up I can always slot them to remove. I was amazed at the thickness of this skid....BTW Lance's shipping rate was very resonable for these skids.
 
I will try to snap a couple more pics today of the thickness of it and how close it tucks up.

2badfj, the two bolts in question are off the t-case (IIRC). You cannot remove them and replace them. They stick down from the tcase through the two holes in the plate. I'm guessing it's supporting the tcase with the skid.
 
Ryan-- loved the pig, i read your write up on it so i had a little history but great to see such a project in progress. and i second the vote for killer wheels.......dont you have another set there as well (tundra sequoia)??? i tried not to look too hard for em, as i didnt need to spend any more $. I want those wheels so bad but had to put my pennies elsewhere on this trip.

Mo-- the greatest distance b/w the t-case and the skid is at the drain hole where it measures 5/8'', dont see any way to mod it to make it tighter; along the slant of the skid the distance gets smaller and smaller, so in theory only a different bend in the skid could allow closer fit...hope that helps
 
I will try to snap a couple more pics today of the thickness of it and how close it tucks up.

2badfj, the two bolts in question are off the t-case (IIRC). You cannot remove them and replace them. They stick down from the tcase through the two holes in the plate. I'm guessing it's supporting the tcase with the skid.

are the studs threaded into the case,or part of it?
i guess if they could'nt be removed or modified, thats a downfall on toyotas parts.

still looks good.
 
2badfjs, yea, they come off the t-case. It's a toyota thing. Here's another picture showing exactly where they originate and a few showing the overall thickness of the plate. Also, shows the pan protection also with this skid.
Iron Pig Offroad 023 (Small).webp
Iron Pig Offroad 025 (Small).webp
Iron Pig Offroad 026 (Small).webp
 
IPOR 1st units have the countersunk headed bolts but what you do is cut the 2 threaded posts off the bottem of the transfer case mount , drill/tap 4 holes then bolt it on .

See pix .
skid.webp
 
installed my IPOR skid today as well...piece of cake but damn it's heavy/beefy!!

IMO, given the dozens of other items hanging down under the rig to catch on, a couple more bolt heads isn't a bit deal. The two studs for the center mount are going to get dinged up, I'll definitely be trimmin those up and seein what other ideas I have to protect what's left there...
 
Mo-- the greatest distance b/w the t-case and the skid is at the drain hole where it measures 5/8'', dont see any way to mod it to make it tighter; along the slant of the skid the distance gets smaller and smaller, so in theory only a different bend in the skid could allow closer fit...hope that helps

Thanks for the info. After looking under it today I think I am just being picky, the cat protector on my Hanna's is just as low so I think 1/4" more clearance on the t-case skid is not worth worrying about. :rolleyes:

concrete thanks for the pictures! The Slee skid is great quality, surprise, surprise, but it would be nice to have all the extra protection the IPOR skid/crossmember has. Congrats to you both on the nice new armor.
 
bolt heads...

need to change that IPOR design to have recessed hex bolts like bud built skids...those things are sweeet.
 
hey, why not have another "mini" plate that bolts on in front of the t-case bolts? tappers back and down and over the bolts .... just a thought
 
hey, why not have another "mini" plate that bolts on in front of the t-case bolts? tappers back and down and over the bolts .... just a thought

get er' done and show us with pictures. :D

actually that's kinda what i was thinking. I was just thinking weld a couple of chunks of tapered steel in front of the bolts to act as slides so you would slide up the tappered chunk of steel and right over the bolt head.

Anyways, we are critiquing the crap out of a great product. I'm sure we could say a lot about slee's plate too.
 
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Anyone have a weight on that bad-boy?
Not that another 200 pounds on a 6,000 pound beast really matters...:D

I think the plate without supports was about 60 lbs.
 
hey, why not have another "mini" plate that bolts on in front of the t-case bolts? tappers back and down and over the bolts .... just a thought

Hmmm I wonder if a u-bolt skid plate could be adapted?
 

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