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- #41
woohoo! This is getting exciting!
Introduction and beginning of a (super slow) build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Chad717
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- Thread starter
- #42
Cleaning the case today. Not fun. I think that is as clean as it is going to get
I did have a hard time getting the snap ring for the front output shaft bearing out of the front case. Its funny the little things that can really stall you for a while. I eventually was able to squeeze a small screwdriver in and was able to grab it with a pair of hemostats that I had from the carb rebuild. Got it out without damaging it so that made me happy.
I used a small brass drift and hammer to knock out both bearing races. I then used one of the press plates on top of the new race and the press to push it back in.
Didn't get the rear output shaft bearing race put back in yet cause I was tired of cleaning and I didn't want to clean the cover. haha
I did however pull out the pilot bearing with a puller and replaced it. I used the old idler shaft and the press to press it in.
Which leads me to a question. In the FSM it mentions using MP or multipurpose grease for several assembly instructions, I haven't really gotten to assembly yet, except for the pilot bearing. I used just a general engine assembly lube. Is this ok? Or is there something else someone recommends? Thanks for the help as always!
I did have a hard time getting the snap ring for the front output shaft bearing out of the front case. Its funny the little things that can really stall you for a while. I eventually was able to squeeze a small screwdriver in and was able to grab it with a pair of hemostats that I had from the carb rebuild. Got it out without damaging it so that made me happy.
I used a small brass drift and hammer to knock out both bearing races. I then used one of the press plates on top of the new race and the press to push it back in.
Didn't get the rear output shaft bearing race put back in yet cause I was tired of cleaning and I didn't want to clean the cover. haha
I did however pull out the pilot bearing with a puller and replaced it. I used the old idler shaft and the press to press it in.
Which leads me to a question. In the FSM it mentions using MP or multipurpose grease for several assembly instructions, I haven't really gotten to assembly yet, except for the pilot bearing. I used just a general engine assembly lube. Is this ok? Or is there something else someone recommends? Thanks for the help as always!
- Thread starter
- #44
So after getting my engine rebuilt, and putting it back in along with a h55f and a rebuilt transfer case, (thread here: 1985 2f engine pull and replacement thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1985-2f-engine-pull-and-replacement-thread.1050789/) and battling emissions for a bit (thread here: Not another emissions thread! Ugh. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/not-another-emissions-thread-ugh.1184978/) I am up and legal and driving around daily. Now on to all the other stuff I want to work on.
I started by chasing a coolant leak that kept dripping from under the transmission. I rented a pressure tester and it turns out it was the hose on the back of the block near the brake booster that goes to the firewall. What a pain to replace that one.
Next, my one of my freewheel hubs would not turn, so I rebuilt both of those. That was a fun little project.
Don't know why that is sideways. I also got some chrome lug nuts!
I started by chasing a coolant leak that kept dripping from under the transmission. I rented a pressure tester and it turns out it was the hose on the back of the block near the brake booster that goes to the firewall. What a pain to replace that one.
Next, my one of my freewheel hubs would not turn, so I rebuilt both of those. That was a fun little project.
Don't know why that is sideways. I also got some chrome lug nuts!
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- #45
I had to fix my rear drum brakes because the emergency brake kept over adjusting them. I was at my wits end with them, since I rebuilt them with all new hardware. I was also getting tired of crawling under the truck to loosen them up before a drive. Thanks to this thread: rear brakes over adjusting..... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-brakes-over-adjusting.327957/ and @EscapeWagon62 I think I finally have that problem taken care of. Another vote for OEM parts when you can find them.
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- #46
Today I went after the window regulator on the drivers side. It was so hard to roll up and down. Cleaned it out with carb cleaner and then sprayed some lithium grease on all the moving parts and it seems to have fixed the problem. Pumped that I don't have to replace the regulator yet. My vapor barrier was shot. I think I'll grab some plastic from Home Depot and try and replace it the best I can.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Awesome and glad it worked.
I don‘t miss having to loosen up the star wheel all the time. I used to carry a 4 inch length of a metal hangar and a screw driver in my center console (wire to push in the lever snd the screw driver to loosen the star wheel). I had the procedure down like a NASCAR pit crew and could adjust in the length pf a standard red light at an intersection
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
I’m about to refresh my hubs too.
What color paint did you use for the free/lock selector?
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- #50
That’s just a rust oleum gloss orange that I found at autozone. The cap looked closer to the original color on the hub, but it turned out much brighter. It’s ok I kind of like it.
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- #52
It was the rings. The machine shop didn't mention anything else major besides regular wear and tear. It had a cracked exhaust seat according to my bill. Thats about it.
Good to know. I got lower compression on 4&5. Vac gauge flickers. A little oil in the hole and compression comes up. I get a puff of blue smoke changing gears. I am trying to wish it to a valve issue because it only has 117k. I need to test it again with fresh O-rings and hook it up to the air compressor. Iron block 350 is enticing, but I love the 2F. It isn't critical yet, but haunts my mind.
- Thread starter
- #54
Replaced my vapor barrier with some plastic from Home Depot and got the door panel back on. Did a big order today from many cruiser parts places including my local Toyota dealership. Next project I think is to change the oil pan gasket, mostly cause I hate the thought of doing it again (I did it once before the engine rebuild) so I figure I might as well get it over with. It is leaking right at the front lip of the pan; I hope it is the pan gasket and not the timing cover gasket.
Anyway, I also have the rear part of the exhaust coming, it is all rusted out past the cat. I have the knuckle rebuild kit coming as well as some diff gaskets, and last but not least I ordered an OME lift. Gonna be busy well into the summer with this I figure.
OH, I also ordered a set of seatbelts from seatbelt planet, including the retracting shoulder harnesses for the rear. I was sure that my model year and month (April 85) was one with the hole in the C pillar, but not the threaded hole. Imagine my delight when I cut ever so slightly into my pristine headliner and slid a very tiny screwdriver in there and I could feel the threads. Yippee..
Anyway, I also have the rear part of the exhaust coming, it is all rusted out past the cat. I have the knuckle rebuild kit coming as well as some diff gaskets, and last but not least I ordered an OME lift. Gonna be busy well into the summer with this I figure.
OH, I also ordered a set of seatbelts from seatbelt planet, including the retracting shoulder harnesses for the rear. I was sure that my model year and month (April 85) was one with the hole in the C pillar, but not the threaded hole. Imagine my delight when I cut ever so slightly into my pristine headliner and slid a very tiny screwdriver in there and I could feel the threads. Yippee..
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- #55
Worked all weekend, so not much progress. I did get my 5 speed shift knob in from City Racer however! Besides that I'm trying to get my idle set and I seem to be struggling a little bit, I think I'll do a separate post about it however.
In other interesting news I started to get a loud buzzing sound when I accelerated under the drivers side floorboard. Only when the engine was under load and about say 1500 rpm, but super annoying. At the same time, when I the truck was warmed up and sitting at idle I started getting a clinking sound around the transmission somewhere. Totally two separate problems, or at least I thought. I was sweating bullets thinking the clinking was coming from either my brand new H55f, or my rebuilt transfer case. Thats the kind of stuff that will keep you up at night. Finally a few days ago I dove under the truck with a long pry bar as I didn't have a super long screwdriver, and I held it up against the tranny and the transfer case as the truck was idling. I listened in and it didn't seem to be coming from either. PHEW!! It sounded closer to the exhaust and I finally pinpointed it at the smog check valve that connects to the exhaust. It must be completely shot and the valve is just rattling around in there. I think the loud buzzing I'm hearing is also the check valve! Big Big relief that for now it seems like a simple fix!
In other interesting news I started to get a loud buzzing sound when I accelerated under the drivers side floorboard. Only when the engine was under load and about say 1500 rpm, but super annoying. At the same time, when I the truck was warmed up and sitting at idle I started getting a clinking sound around the transmission somewhere. Totally two separate problems, or at least I thought. I was sweating bullets thinking the clinking was coming from either my brand new H55f, or my rebuilt transfer case. Thats the kind of stuff that will keep you up at night. Finally a few days ago I dove under the truck with a long pry bar as I didn't have a super long screwdriver, and I held it up against the tranny and the transfer case as the truck was idling. I listened in and it didn't seem to be coming from either. PHEW!! It sounded closer to the exhaust and I finally pinpointed it at the smog check valve that connects to the exhaust. It must be completely shot and the valve is just rattling around in there. I think the loud buzzing I'm hearing is also the check valve! Big Big relief that for now it seems like a simple fix!
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- #57
For the clanking noise? Mine is a little different because it has headers on it, so I'm not sure which tube you mean. Not a great picture but you can see how mine is arranged. I pulled the hose off the check valve and I could hear it rattling pretty clearly.
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- #58
Fresh parts!
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- #59
Some current pictures. Before the lift!
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- #60
Just slowly working on small things. Readjusted my valves, they were all pretty spot on it seemed to me. Then I decided to fix the noisy smog check valve on my exhaust, but I couldn't get enough leverage to get it off with the collectors on the car, so I had to pull them out, which led to me also replacing the rear section of exhaust as well. The truck is so quiet now with a new muffler! It also has a nice little burble from behind with the stock exhaust, which I didn't expect.
Since I had the full length of the exhaust out, I started POR15 the sections of the frame that would be hard to get to with the exhaust in. Thats some nasty stuff! My frame is really pretty solid, mostly surface rust it seems, so I started by wire brushing off the loose stuff with my drill, then hitting it with degreaser, then the POR15. It definitely won't win any beauty contests, but I feel better about getting a little more protection on there. The plan is to do the frame in bits and pieces as I work on the truck. Sorry about the bad pics.
Since I had the full length of the exhaust out, I started POR15 the sections of the frame that would be hard to get to with the exhaust in. Thats some nasty stuff! My frame is really pretty solid, mostly surface rust it seems, so I started by wire brushing off the loose stuff with my drill, then hitting it with degreaser, then the POR15. It definitely won't win any beauty contests, but I feel better about getting a little more protection on there. The plan is to do the frame in bits and pieces as I work on the truck. Sorry about the bad pics.
