Introduction and beginning of a (super slow) build thread (1 Viewer)

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@joebattle1 i have to chuckle... your scared to do a carb but you’ll be taking the tcase down?
It’s interesting the things that get us eh? I’ve rebuilt much in my engine... gear box was first then the carb then a whole top end but the idea of pulling my tcase, oy. And it most likely needs it.
And @Chad717 my oil pan will be another I’ll be tackling sooner than later as well, prob w/ the tcase. I’ll def use my bottle jack. Another good use of the bottle jack is pressing the harmonic balancer back on as well. It’s a very handy tool. I just found a video on YouTube this AM how to make it into a press as well.
How to Build a Bottle Jack Press

Ha! @NeverGiveUpYota... You have a point... Here is a pick of my 4 runner motor swap I did.

In my 60... I've done my clutch, my birfs, steering gear box, Mean Green alternator, Saginaw steering pump, rebuilt front and rear brakes currently my entire interior is ripped out and just last week I welded a bunch of rust holes up inside. But anything carb or timing related scares the death out of me. Go figure... I have a hard time understanding stuff like fuel mixture and timing. I'm kinda dumb like that. Those big jobs are easy to me. Remove bolts, label them. find broken stuff, replace broken stuff put bolts back in. Carb rebuild seams like smart people jobs.

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Carb rebuild seams like smart people jobs.
Or wildly daring people. Hey did you read @mwebfj60 s thread on the Phoenix? He rebuild the automatic transmission. That is smart people jobs!
 
Or wildly daring people. Hey did you read @mwebfj60 s thread on the Phoenix? He rebuild the automatic transmission. That is smart people jobs!

No, But I've watched Georg's transfer case rebuild vid like four times now and it's do detailed I figured I can pull it off. He also told me I can call him if I get hung up. Now to just find that H55 money...
 
Quick update. The other day I went ahead and did the galley plug fix. It went pretty well, I have a right angle drill so that made the drilling easy, the plug pretty much just popped out. I was slow and careful while tapping and that went pretty well also. However, (full mud disclosure here) I eyeballed it wrong and didn't drill and tap quite far enough, so the second set screw sticks out a little. I figure one and a half is good for now right? Just wanted to make my blunder public. Here are some pics.



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On another note, I was tuning the carb and wanted to check the timing. I wanted to see what I was looking for when doing the timing so I took off the cover underneath the truck so I could see the flywheel and look for the Line and BB. I couldn't find it at first so I grabbed the flywheel and I was surprised to find that I could turn it by hand. I thought I would have had to have the spark plugs out to do this. Does this mean I have terrible compression? I haven't gotten around to doing a compression check on this truck yet, but now i'm tempted to make it my next project.
 
Replaced the PCV Valve and grommet today and started replacing vacuum lines with some new ones from McMaster Carr. Easy day. I also painted the BB and Line on the flywheel white so I could see it better when checking timing. Any info on being able to move the engine by hand? I don't know enough to know if this is normal or not.
 
I honestly don’t know. Mine isn’t easy to turn at all.
@OSS or @mwebfj60 would you mind piping in?
 
It really shouldn't be easy. As you go a couple revolutions you should be able to feel each cylinder come up on compression. If it's quiet enough you should be able to hear hissing (even on a fresh engine) coming up on compression which would be a little air sneaking past the valves.

As you said get a compression check next on your list.
 
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disc the battery, put in neutral and should turn. If you have compression it will push some air through the valves. Should be snug but not terribly hard to turn it by hand. One strong arm or two weak ones should work. Yes with the plugs in.
 
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If your trying to just grab the flywheel by your hands and turn it...then yes it would be hard to turn.

That’s the problem, I was able to turn it that way. Not super easy, but not super hard either.
 
If it runs, the compression is probably ok. But not hard to test. Probably 20 bucks for a compression gauge. Disconnect the coil wire from either the coil or the dizzy so it doesnt try to run. screw the adapter on the compression gauge air line into the plug hole and have someone turn the key and let it crank for a couple seconds while you get a reading, move to the next hole.
 
check these lines 1 - 12 one at a time. Notice 1 thru 12 listed bottom right. Notice the 1 - 12 black and white port image above them. This is how the hoses sit on the metal lines where the big white arrow points. make sure the air valve just below in front of the carb (with 3 looped hoses) isn't cracked at the base.

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@g-man so it is hard to say about the stumbling yet. It only seemed to happen after the truck was driven for an extended period of time, say 15+ minutes. I just recently got the carb back on, and I did have a chance to run it around the neighborhood for about 10 min sans hood and it ran fine. I feel like there might have been a tiny bit of stumble, but at this point I am so expecting it that it might have been my imagination. I also drove it around before I had done the lean drop method I was just so excited to have it running again. After that I did the oil galley plug fix and have been replacing all vacuum lines carefully. During this process I found that the VCV under the air cleaner is bad so I ordered 2 of the newer kind since the other one is probably bad also. I am waiting for those to arrive. I really hope that the carb rebuild fixes the stumble.
 
So the rebuilt carb seems to work great. I have driven it a lot and not experienced any stumbling. Unfortunately it still will not pass emissions here in Colorado. Upon further investigation I found bad compression on number 6 and it looks like I am in for a complete rebuild. See this thread here Bad compression on number 6
 
So as I posted on my engine rebuild thread I finally got the engine out. I am feeling quite ambitious and have made a list of what I want to accomplish while the engine is out.

1. transfer case rebuild
2. h55 swap
3. re-gearing from stock to 4.11 gears (i have no idea the best way to do this)
4. OME lift
5. knuckle rebuild
6. tie rod replacement

For me this will all take forever, but I am in no rush I just work on it when I can. My question is this. As I was thinking about doing the lift, it occurred to me that it might be harder to do without the driveshafts on to help locate the axle. Is this true? or am I just overthinking it. I've done leaf spring replacements on my K10 but it was a while ago.
 
Finally got some time between work and 2 little kids to work on the truck. The engine is out and all the accessories are removed. I dropped it off at a machine shop to get looked at. I am waiting to hear back from them on what needs to be done.

In the meantime I have ordered an H55f and have started tearing apart the transfer case.

Everything came apart really easily and all the seals and bearings seem to be in really good shape, I almost wonder if it had been rebuilt not that long ago. Now to figure out how to put it all back together! Thanks to @orangefj45 for the video and @maxbob002 for the pretty detailed build thread.

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