looks great, What's the crazy grappling hook deal in the receiver?
Introducing my DIRTY LITTLE (Diva)
- Thread starter Brock
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
It is a Double Trouble recovery hook...much better than a shackle in my opinion...no pins to deal with in mud or water or snow...just throw loop over hooks and pull.
Double Trouble Hook
Double Trouble Hook
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- Thread starter
- #104
I will get some today when I am changing my oil...and will try to find an older pic of BEFORE to compare.
Brock, that looks awesome man! Good job! I'm jealous of you LX, that's one nice 100!
- Thread starter
- #106
Here are two similar pictures though not exactly same...to get idea of difference. My rear tail pipe is lowest thing back there now. Think I need to get some new pipe bent to take it up where spare tire used to be and then maybe out in between tire and quarter panel skid from bumper. 
Pretty much in oem form the bottom edge of bumper at HIGH AHC setting with my tires was at center of hub....without the bottom edge of bumper skid is level with bottom of V shape in tire spokes. If I took off the driver side tow eye it would be higher. Same for passenger where the tow hook is there to protect the muffler which is now BELOW the bottom edge of bumper whereas before it was up above lower edge of bumper...with tire being lowest point underneath.
And NO, I did not clean the rear quarter lowers before mounting bumper....and now I see all the scum in there.
Pretty much in oem form the bottom edge of bumper at HIGH AHC setting with my tires was at center of hub....without the bottom edge of bumper skid is level with bottom of V shape in tire spokes. If I took off the driver side tow eye it would be higher. Same for passenger where the tow hook is there to protect the muffler which is now BELOW the bottom edge of bumper whereas before it was up above lower edge of bumper...with tire being lowest point underneath.
And NO, I did not clean the rear quarter lowers before mounting bumper....and now I see all the scum in there.
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FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
Good choice on not having the sides plated!
hoser
SILVER Star
Looks great! Just wondering why you are keeping all the factory tie-downs and hook.
Oh, and this thread needs more linkbacks from the FJC board!!!
Oh, and this thread needs more linkbacks from the FJC board!!!
- Thread starter
- #109
Looks great! Just wondering why you are keeping all the factory tie-downs and hook.
Oh, and this thread needs more linkbacks from the FJC board!!!
Tie down= no real reason
Tow Hook= to help protect my exhaust pipe tip from being smashed shut until I can redirect it. The factory tow hitch had a steel box forumed around pipe to protect it...so now the tow hook is only thing between a rock slap and a pancaked pipe.
oh...and
I have no idea why there are so many linkbacks...unless it is because I have this thread linked to my signature page there as well. Let me remove that....dang that is a pain.
Before the bumper goes into the can, why don't you ping Welcome to CruiserParts.net and see if they will help find a new home for them? I believe it has been posted that they'll even arrange shipping and give you a few $$.
- Thread starter
- #111
I contacted them about running boards, 3rd row seats, etc...and no response. will send them another just in case it was missed. thanks.
6 months to respond about my RB's....
I talked to them on the phone the other day. They basically make a note in their system that you have the parts, then wait for someone else to order the parts, then they pay to have you ship it to the new customer.
- Thread starter
- #114
I cant store this stuff that long...so if someone else wants it for them to sell let me know. I see they sell the 3rd row seats for $1200...WOW...I only wanted $500. LOL
- Thread starter
- #116
It is only one wheel and one tire....if interested send me a PM
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Keep things for sale in the classifieds please.
- Thread starter
- #118
deleted...thanks.
- Thread starter
- #119
This week I added a front bumper and some accessories:
First- I worked with Mike at BumpItOffroad to get a LEXUS bumper completed. We did some measurements from furthest point of grill when lifting open hood...to known points such as radiator, two of the bolts on engine shroud, cross member between frame rails down low.
I was worried about light placement given the hood opening and swinging up behind and through the bumper plane so it appeared the big 7.5" IPF lights I had come to love would be unusable....so we checked some other options he saw at SEMA with RIGID Industries and their LED light bars.
I also wanted integrated turn signals...I did not want to convert my headlight housing over to a Land Cruiser setup for that additional cost...but I also did not want to jerry-rig the current bulb setup into the Lexus housing. So I asked mike to water jet some holes to fit an aftermarket LED light setup. He found some lights and they work great.
As for the bumper install...it is a heavy SOB...and heavier with a Titan 12,000lb winch installed. LOL
Hardest part was figuring out all the nylon rivets holding the front bumper skin in place. Finally got the final two and it came off like BUTTER. Then the styrafoam insulation...and then the bolts that hold the steel bumper insert/cross member to remove it completely.
The directions state to cut the bumper hangers off completely with a vertical cut...then grinding down even with frame rail. Mike recommended I only cut them off flush with bottom of frame for now so it would leave one threaded bolt hole in case the bumper did not fit and I had to put back on my other bumper until he could get it fixed.....it was the FIRST LEXUS bumper afterall so we were not positive MURPHY would not show up.
Next step is to hang bumper....tighten in place and level it out with included shims using two factory bolts and two new bolts (replace long ones that held tiedown hook in place). Once it is in place and level...mark the holes on side of frame rail if it does not line up with the holes that are already there. If yes, then just insert the appropriate bolts to make sure...and then take everything off. If no, then mark and drill the holes to make them work.... I was able to drill them with bumper in place as the signal holes in front of bumper let me get my Milwaukee drill in there perfect sitting on a stool for comfort...to get through both sides.
Insert you choice of winch...and reinstall bumper.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
As you can see I have the RIGID Industries E-series LED Light. I got the 10" model...if they would have had a 14" model would have got it to fill the entire tube area but 20" was too big.
It comes with its own wiring harness and two mount options...steel feet to attach to any surface or hangars to be welded in place. Mike at BumpItOffroad (BIO) welded on the hangers for me and had it all powdercoasted together. I recommend buying the RIGID Industries locking nuts to prevent theft as all it comes with is nylon nuts. I put two rubber nipples over each one to make the nuts more stealthy and hopefully prevent some passive attempts at removal until my locking nuts arrive. The other choice is red loctite with a wing nut in addition to the nylon nut.
You can see the two LED signals Mike included in my order. They are utility trailer lights I believe. They have a rubber grommet you install first in cutout...then pop the light in place. The light is slightly larger than grommet so it helps secure it inside the hole with the outward pressure of light. I used a couple dabs of silicone II adhesive and sealant to the grommet and the LED light just to make sure...but two days of driving around and they never loosened before the silicone was added.
I cut the connector off the turn signals....and had two wires for LEXUS signal and three wires in the LED SIgnal. Reading box it is a set of 10 LEDs with one set for Parking Lights and the other for Turn Signals. So I combined the two wires and connected them to the power wire of the oem lights. Then I connected the two ground wires...and plugged the connector from wires to back of LED light and it was done. Repeated on other side. Soldered wires...wrapped in tape...then brushed on a good layer of liquid electrical tape to make them weather resistant at minimum.
For hooking up the LED light bar I used their supplied harness. I was going to use the Lexus switch on stalk as it is plenty big enough for this light...but did not want to cut up the harness they supplied and it uses a custom plug setup to get power from harness to the light itself. So I ran the new harness and mounted relay on firewall up high...figured out how to get into cabin area and then popped out a blank in dash...drilled a hole with bit....scraped just enough to make it fit really tight and popped into place the supplied switch.
I think it looks pretty damn good especially after I touch up the silver marks from me popping the switches before...LOL
First- I worked with Mike at BumpItOffroad to get a LEXUS bumper completed. We did some measurements from furthest point of grill when lifting open hood...to known points such as radiator, two of the bolts on engine shroud, cross member between frame rails down low.
I was worried about light placement given the hood opening and swinging up behind and through the bumper plane so it appeared the big 7.5" IPF lights I had come to love would be unusable....so we checked some other options he saw at SEMA with RIGID Industries and their LED light bars.
I also wanted integrated turn signals...I did not want to convert my headlight housing over to a Land Cruiser setup for that additional cost...but I also did not want to jerry-rig the current bulb setup into the Lexus housing. So I asked mike to water jet some holes to fit an aftermarket LED light setup. He found some lights and they work great.
As for the bumper install...it is a heavy SOB...and heavier with a Titan 12,000lb winch installed. LOL
Hardest part was figuring out all the nylon rivets holding the front bumper skin in place. Finally got the final two and it came off like BUTTER. Then the styrafoam insulation...and then the bolts that hold the steel bumper insert/cross member to remove it completely.
The directions state to cut the bumper hangers off completely with a vertical cut...then grinding down even with frame rail. Mike recommended I only cut them off flush with bottom of frame for now so it would leave one threaded bolt hole in case the bumper did not fit and I had to put back on my other bumper until he could get it fixed.....it was the FIRST LEXUS bumper afterall so we were not positive MURPHY would not show up.
Next step is to hang bumper....tighten in place and level it out with included shims using two factory bolts and two new bolts (replace long ones that held tiedown hook in place). Once it is in place and level...mark the holes on side of frame rail if it does not line up with the holes that are already there. If yes, then just insert the appropriate bolts to make sure...and then take everything off. If no, then mark and drill the holes to make them work.... I was able to drill them with bumper in place as the signal holes in front of bumper let me get my Milwaukee drill in there perfect sitting on a stool for comfort...to get through both sides.
Insert you choice of winch...and reinstall bumper.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
As you can see I have the RIGID Industries E-series LED Light. I got the 10" model...if they would have had a 14" model would have got it to fill the entire tube area but 20" was too big.
It comes with its own wiring harness and two mount options...steel feet to attach to any surface or hangars to be welded in place. Mike at BumpItOffroad (BIO) welded on the hangers for me and had it all powdercoasted together. I recommend buying the RIGID Industries locking nuts to prevent theft as all it comes with is nylon nuts. I put two rubber nipples over each one to make the nuts more stealthy and hopefully prevent some passive attempts at removal until my locking nuts arrive. The other choice is red loctite with a wing nut in addition to the nylon nut.
You can see the two LED signals Mike included in my order. They are utility trailer lights I believe. They have a rubber grommet you install first in cutout...then pop the light in place. The light is slightly larger than grommet so it helps secure it inside the hole with the outward pressure of light. I used a couple dabs of silicone II adhesive and sealant to the grommet and the LED light just to make sure...but two days of driving around and they never loosened before the silicone was added.
I cut the connector off the turn signals....and had two wires for LEXUS signal and three wires in the LED SIgnal. Reading box it is a set of 10 LEDs with one set for Parking Lights and the other for Turn Signals. So I combined the two wires and connected them to the power wire of the oem lights. Then I connected the two ground wires...and plugged the connector from wires to back of LED light and it was done. Repeated on other side. Soldered wires...wrapped in tape...then brushed on a good layer of liquid electrical tape to make them weather resistant at minimum.
For hooking up the LED light bar I used their supplied harness. I was going to use the Lexus switch on stalk as it is plenty big enough for this light...but did not want to cut up the harness they supplied and it uses a custom plug setup to get power from harness to the light itself. So I ran the new harness and mounted relay on firewall up high...figured out how to get into cabin area and then popped out a blank in dash...drilled a hole with bit....scraped just enough to make it fit really tight and popped into place the supplied switch.
I think it looks pretty damn good especially after I touch up the silver marks from me popping the switches before...LOL
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- Thread starter
- #120
Inside the bumper is a Titan TW12 which is Duncan's 12,000lb winch. It is the same setup I had in my FJ Cruiser and I loved it. For those that dont know...Duncan took the best aspects of the Warn and Ramsey and SuperWinch systems.....and addressed what he thought were faults...such as faulty and leaky solenoid housings....leaky motor housings....high temps when operating...high amp draw at load...slow spool speed......hot cylinders that degrade synthetic lines....and high prices. He went offshore...but actually one of his advancements has now been put into place by Ramsey on their new winches.
Anyhow...my previous was submerged multiple times...and never failed to work the first try and every try. They come with winch, mounting hardware, winch cover, roller fairlead, wired remote, and also wireless remote.
The control solenoid housing would not fit on top of winch in bumper....and did not want to go under hood...so I made a template of the four threaded holes on one end....drilled out bumper top plate. Then mounted box inside bumper hanging from above. A little blue loctite, a washer and locking washer on each bolt...and snugged up to keep solid. Then topped the allen bolts with a rubber nipple on each as well...to make the chrome more stealthy and to also keep water out of allen hole and forming rust.
So there you have it.....BumpItOffroad Front bumper with integrated LED turn signals, an LED offroad light by RIGID Industries...and stuffed with a Titan TW12 winch.
Me Likey...but going to buy a marine grade battery disconnect to put between winch and battery JUST IN CASE.....as I am paranoid the switch will stick and then the big 12k will keep turning and either it or my truck will go up in flames....and pull someones FJ40 through my roller fairlead when I cant get it to stop. LMAO
so far the AHC is holding up....Ialready ordered an Ironman Suspension kit just in case it fails on me so I can get it removed and replaced without having to wait. That is next I am sure...
Anyhow...my previous was submerged multiple times...and never failed to work the first try and every try. They come with winch, mounting hardware, winch cover, roller fairlead, wired remote, and also wireless remote.
The control solenoid housing would not fit on top of winch in bumper....and did not want to go under hood...so I made a template of the four threaded holes on one end....drilled out bumper top plate. Then mounted box inside bumper hanging from above. A little blue loctite, a washer and locking washer on each bolt...and snugged up to keep solid. Then topped the allen bolts with a rubber nipple on each as well...to make the chrome more stealthy and to also keep water out of allen hole and forming rust.
So there you have it.....BumpItOffroad Front bumper with integrated LED turn signals, an LED offroad light by RIGID Industries...and stuffed with a Titan TW12 winch.
Me Likey...but going to buy a marine grade battery disconnect to put between winch and battery JUST IN CASE.....as I am paranoid the switch will stick and then the big 12k will keep turning and either it or my truck will go up in flames....and pull someones FJ40 through my roller fairlead when I cant get it to stop. LMAO
so far the AHC is holding up....Ialready ordered an Ironman Suspension kit just in case it fails on me so I can get it removed and replaced without having to wait. That is next I am sure...
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