Introducing my DIRTY LITTLE (Diva) (4 Viewers)

[Brock]

Got the Ultra-Gauge installed....I think it had 37 displays available. I am going to set it up for Engine Load, Engine Coolant, RPM, MPH, Intake Air Temp, Instant MPG, Avg MPG, Distance to Empty, Time to Empty, Fuel Remaining, Oil Distance, Service Distance and Ultimate Gauge Temp. Might add a couple more as I have 4 more spots I can fill on the three pages of possibilities to display.

Going to calibrate distance and fuel tomorrow...then will take pics and give some feedback after a few days of driving with it installed.

 

[pman]

Can it show tranny temp?

 

[Brock]

No, so far I have found engine coolant temp, intake air temp and a few other things...Here is the list of gauges available for my particular Lexus LX470 with shown build date, others similar in age may vary:

Manufacture Date: 04/2000
Transmission: Automatic
Protocol: 9141

* Open/Closed Loop Emissions Status
* Percent Engine Load
* Engine coolant temperature
* Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
* Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
* Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2
* Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2
* RPM
* MPH
* Ignition Timing Advance
* Instake Air Temperature
* Mass Air Flow Sensor output in grams/sec
* Absolute Throttle Position Percentage
* Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor 1 Voltage
* Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor 2 Voltage
* Bank 2 Oxygen Sensor 1 Voltage
* Bank 2 Oxygen Sensor 2 Voltage
* Mass Air Flow 2, Calibrated/Calculated
* Instantaneous Miles Per Gallon (MPG)
* Average Miles Per Gallon (MPG)
* Average Miles Per Hour (MPH)
* Average Gallon Per Hour (GPH) - general
* Run Time - general
* Distance - general
* Fuel Used - general
* Intantaneous Gallons Per Hour (GPH)
* Fuel Tank Gallons Remaining
* Distance to Empty(DTE)
* Time to Empty (TTE)



Today I relocated the mount position...not sure I like using the suction cup but not identified better option yet that is easily viewed.

I calibrated it for DISTANCE since my tires are not oem size. I then filled tank, reset to 25gallons when FULL and will drive a few days and then Top It Off to calibrate MPG as instructed in Users Manual. So far so good...

Seeing avg of 190.4 for eng coolant temp so guess will make 200 or 215 the ALARM threshold. It also shows a heartbeat when communications are good with ECU...and also a circle representing a Closed Loop on emissions (a good thing). I have also set it to Auto Advance between pages every 15 seconds so I dont try to constantly use manual buttons while driving. I found that 5 seconds or less was too fast to read all the data.

Now I am prioritizing which gauges I want displayed and where on each screen....then I just re-flag the ones I want and tell them where to be posted...and I am done.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Very Cool!

 

[bkgee]

Today I relocated the mount position...not sure I like using the suction cup but not identified better option yet that is easily viewed.

will it fit in the garage door opener holder, up near the map lights? wiring might be a bit more work...

 

[Brock]

I don't have that option on my LEXUS (2000) but I am sure it would. It also comes with two velcro pieces for attaching that way and might work if cord is long enough.

Here are some pics of mine up and running tonight:

Photo aligns with Gauge Selections shown
Zone Page Gauge
A Instantaneous MPG
B Average MPG – General
C Fuel Tank Gallons Remaining
D Distance to Empty (DTE)
E Oil Distance
F Service Distance

G Average MPH –trip
H Average MPG –trip
I Fuel Used –trip
J Gallons/Hour – trip
K Run Time – trip
L Distance – trip

M MPH
N RPM
O Engine Coolant Temperature
P Air Intake temperature
Q Percent Engine Load
R Ignition Timing Advance


As mentioned earlier....the HEART shows that it is communicating with ECU properly. The halo/circle to right side is the Closed Loop Emissions validation.

I also followed procedure for rebate...a bit of pain in the @$$...as you have to initiate the gauge and write down a whole slew of codes to enter into the online submission form. Takes about 15 minutes total.

 

[wareagle]

is this vehicle specific? or can it read all ECUs?

 

[pman]

Its like a scanguage...........on steriods.......so yes it works with any OBDII vehicle

 

[FullyLitLED]

Is that a heart on your display?lol

 

[nakman]

Ultra-Gauge is pretty cool, only downside IMO is the buttons to operate it are on the back side. So that rules out any type of recessed or flush mount, you're pretty committed to having it stick out from something which is what makes the suction cup mount kind of one of the better options. I had mine in the 80 for a few weeks then kind of got over it, now it's on the shelf in the garage.. best part about the device is how you can just stick it in any car and see what's up, so IMO I kind of like keeping it portable, I wouldn't do a serious install like up in the garage opener location.


Brock I'm liking the new sliders man, great thread so far.

 

[Darkrose]

New sliders look great Brock, and I can't wait to see the new bumpers installed when you get them. I'm digging the Ultra Gauge.

 

[Brock]

yes the ultra gauge works in any OBII vehicle pretty much...there is a list of vehicles on their website and also a list of displays you will most likely get with your specific vehicle.


yes that is a heart...it beats to show you are communicating with ECU properly.


Yes the buttons are on back...pain in ass. So after I customized I set it up to automatically change display screens every 15 seconds. Keeps me from having to fiddle with it. Only have to do it for Gas Fill Ups now.

Thanks for slider comments...yep I lke them. Should have bumper in 2-3 weeks I am guessing....stay tuned.

 

[Brock]

Bump It Offroad rear bumper arrived on Tuesday and I installed 90% of it today.

First off the bumper is very well built...and a heavy bastard too.

To get started you need to have your metric and us sockets, wrenches, etc read. Also get your angle grinder with cutting wheel...and also a reciprocating saw with metal blade.

Then begin by removing screws on both fenderwells that hold mudflap and bracket to body.

 

[Brock]

Then you need to remove the bolts under edge from below to take plastic fascia loose.

Then remove bumper assembly before also removing three bolts on each side for the bumper.

Be sure to disconnect or cut zip ties of wire loom for trailer plug if attached to receiver hitch.

Dont forget to disconnect your rubber resonator holder....and reinstall with new bumper before you put in bolts....makes it easier. Took me an hour to fight that damn thing.

 

[Brock]

Now that bumper and tow hitch are gone you need to make sure to remove any other brackets from below.

Save bolts for tow hook and tow eye....the tow hook will be reinstalled with oem bolts and helps provide protection for tail pipe.

This gets you ready to cut....

 

[Brock]

Now get your cutting wheel and sawzall ready...recommend long sleeved shirt, hat, safety goggles and maybe gloves if sensitive to burning hot embers of molten steel...LOL

You are going to cut out the cross member in all four locations....cut just inside of the welds and be careful not to cut into the frame rails while doing this. You can clean up the edges and trim tighter once the main portion is out of the way. Then you will need to grind down the remaining bits until the area is same height and width of the largest portion of frame rail at rear.

 

[Brock]

Now get some help....I used my motorcycle lift to carry bumper over to truck and then called a friend for the heavy lifting. This is one bumper YOU CANNOT lift and mount alone. I have mounted Warn, Demello bumpers....Budbuilt, Slee, and WhiteKnuckle SLiders, Budbuilt full skids......and could not mount this alone.

You can see the bumper upside down here. You see the integrated 2" receiver hitch for towing or extraction shackles in center. Two large tow eyes on either side...the square hole on right is for your new tow plug. You can see the underneath skids that protect from behind each tire out to bumper for ultimate protection when dropping off rocks.

Then you can see the rear quarter rock rails that fit fairly snug up around body. Well thought out and very solid.

Throw some rustoleum paint where you cut and ground on the frame rails to be safe...then slide the bumper in place.

Holding it from side bars and one of the cutouts of underbody skid plates is easiest. It should sit on top of frame into box of bumper...with about 1/4 inch between bumper and body.

if it will not level out at wings...then check to see if your two body mount bolts (long bolts going through rubber bushing at rear underneath) are too long and preventing wings from pivoting up and flush with bottom of frame rails. Cut them off about 1/2 inch below the last threads and you are good.

Finger tighten two OEM bolts you removed along with tow hooks as well as the two new bolts and lock washers to make sure all fitment is good before cranking down on them really tight.

 

[Brock]

With main bumper in place you can recheck the fitment...but then crank down on the bolts and get it all solid.

Now remove the plastic tape out of all threaded holes...and off the spindles on each corner so you can install the swing arms.

you will need to pack the four bearings with grease...I use either Mobile 1 synthetic or Amsoil Heavy Duty Synthetic greas....just pack them good. Install bearings and seals in swing arms and slide down on spindle...install washer then castle nut and cotter pin for safety. Final step is the dust cap on top...find a flat board or something to give equal pressure when tapping into place with 2lb sledge or rubber mallet.

 

[Brock]

both swing arms and accessories are installed....install shocks...50lb on left swingarm (jerry cans) and 100lb shock on right (tire). Closing hasps, safety pins and knobs.

This is also when you will install the plastic bump ramp that spaces the arms when you clam them down and it mounts to top of bumper with two counter sunk allen bolts. There are also two synthetic disc bumpstops that mount to tabs on end of swing arms to keep them from vibrating against main bumper.

In addition there are steel stops welded to top of bumper and pivot point of swing arm to prevent them over opening.

The 100lb shock is quite stout so may need a friend or a strap to help you compress it enough to install on pivot joints properly.

Next thing is to reattach your four wire flat trailer plug or convert it over to the provide round plug...or buy an adapter to keep both.

Lastly, relocate license plate and tap into your running light wire for a new plate light to make you legal when dark.

Some fine tuning of closing hasps.....pumping spindles full of synthetic greas...and then going over all the bolts again after 50 miles and maybe again around 500 miles to make sure it is all staying snug. Might consider some blue loctite or even red loctite on some of the items to make sure they stay tight under stress.

closed they fit snug to rear of vehicle and design increases departure angle considerably just from overall appearance...i am sure I can tell more on the trail.

open...they provide ample room for tail gate and lift gate to both open. The shocks are stout and keep them open with no chance of them closing without your assistance. Very nice....

 

[Brock]

Final result....two jerry cans....my Nitto Trail Grappler spare.

Still need to test out Hi-lift mount....put on a cb antennae and maybe a backup/work light.

Very pleased with results....

It is heavy...it is very well built and thought out. Took me about 8 hours from beginning to finish by myself with no help other than 5 minutes to lift into place...remove...cut body mount bolts...and then remount again.

Plus three Guinness Stouts in bottle.. Power tools...heavy steel....beer.

Here it is............

(the powder in pictures is from a bag of powdered starch going to a restaraunt that fell and busted on the pallet of my bumper during shipment....so it is dusted until it rains...LOL)