Intercooler theory and sizing debate (1 Viewer)

[Christian]

There's an outfit called SupraSport that has batches of CT26 turbo elbows manufactured occasionally, they are bolt-on replacements for the 7M-GTE's elbow. That said, they are a cast iron piece that flows quite nicely compared to the stock elbow. It's know as a LIPP Turbo Elbow, I think. I occasionally see a them pop up used, but admittedly, a custom fabricated downpipe is lighter, cheaper, and more readily available.

Unfortunately I don't follow Supra tuning outside North America, so I don't know who would be handier to you. Regardless, if it is a CT26 turbo you're working with, perhaps a chap named Randy at BIC Performance could make you a DDP section that would suit: BIC Performance Home
In any case, you could make your own DDP with a flange cut to mate to the back of your turbo.

Thanks! i think i will make one myself, mostly to see if i can But I will use the links to get some pointers on the design.

1KZ's use a CT12B.

Christian, I have the chassis number from a 2004 120 series powered by a 1KZ-TE. I'll PM it to you later. This will let you get the part number for the genuine later heads.

Great! Toyota here can't do anything without the chassis number here...
I don't know if the head has been changed already. Are there any visible difference between the new and the old?

The deal on the BJ42 fell through. long story, but it seems my girlfriend will be driving the VW Polo for now...

 

[Christian]

Hey!

The intercooler turned up! The guy I bought it from have had the inlet/outlet changed to 2½" because you can't get 2,25" pipes or silicine hoses for turbo's etc. here. I got a cooler and waterpump with it.

Here it is:

 

[R2HKS]

That radiator looks pretty small. It may pay to monitor the water temp to make sure that radiator is up to the job. If not its easy to replace with a larger rad say from a 4 banger car to make the system even more effecient.

You won't regret using a water to air IC. You made the right choice imo, especially at the price you bought it!

 

[rchalmers3]

Christian, thanks for showing us your new inter-cooler. What does it look like inside the inlet? Did you receive any technical data with the unit?

Rick

 

[Christian]

Thanks! Well almost all of you recommended it, and I started this thread to gain some advise, I would be either stupid or arrogant not to listen to you!

I have other radiators lying around, I'll look at it when time comes.

by measuring the element it's a 4 x 8" PWR that's rated at 390 CFM.

Here's a pic of what the innerts look like:

 

[Christian]

Hi again

I'm knee-deep in the project now and fabricating the elbow as a side-project when I feel like doing something else.

After having read alot about turbo elbows around the web I had a general idea of what I would like to do, here's a few pics of what I have so far:

From the top:


From top/side:

And inside:

There's a small flap of stainless going in to the turbo blocking the path of gas coming from the wastegate and directing it in to the flow of the turbine wheel later on, as you can see.
What I have tried to accomplish is an uninterupted flow from the turbine, like a divorsed wastegate, but a bit simpler. i call it a separated wastegate

 

[Dougal]

That'll do the job.
Are you sure it's big enough?

 

[Christian]

That'll do the job.
Are you sure it's big enough?

Thanks! I was gonna keep it 81mm for the first 50cm because I've heard that the first ½ meter must have volume equivalent to the displacement. With 81mm pipe it was a perfect match. But I could mot find any bends that size in the pile so I stepped it down to 76.1 (3"). Although not perfect, as you say it will do the job!

I know that a lot of what I do is insanely overkill, especially considering this is not a competition truck or engine. If the fact that a lot of other (maybe equally important parts) are kept stock is taken in to consideration it might seem even more stupid. But I do it as much to learn as to build. And while I have my hands on it I might as well do the best I can.

 

[Christian]

Hi again all!

I am looking for a wiring diagram for the 1KZ-T (not the 1KZ-TE).
I know it is really simple, but the are some wires on the pump that I lost track of. (I had it written down but lost the note....)

 

[toddm]

I think you also need to look at the type of intercooling ie air to air vs water to air and also what you do with your truck. If its just for the highway then a front mount air to air intercooler would be fine. However if you say drive it on the beach in really soft sand in 2nd gear low range then you aren't going fast enough for a front mount IC to do anything at all. That's where water to air comes into its own.

You also need to look at the pressure drop across the core, how much the IC cools the intake air and the possible lag created from long and large intercooler piping.

More questions than answers at this stage.

I realize I'm WAY late on the reply but I didn't see anyone comment on this post and felt like I should. I have used water to air intercoolers as well as air to air. The water to air will work provided you have a large enough radiator to get the heat out of the system. The comment about water to air being superior in high load /low airflow situations is just not true. The water to air radiator will get just as much airflow as an air to air. It is true that the water to air will stave off heat soak longer because of its larger mass, but it also takes longer to cool back to ambient for the same reason, all else being equal. Just my opinion.

Also you will be better off with an intercooler than without, even on a stock/low boost setup.

I like your dump pipe so far! Be sure to make it strong enough to handle any forces it may encounter on your trek. Don't worry about the backpressure too much, the turbo will always be your biggest restriction.

Todd

 

[Christian]

Hi Todd

Thanks for the reply. I have settled on a water to air intercooler. Another reason for this is that the route I would have been forrced to take plumbing an air to air intercooler. The Volvo is in essence a mid-engined car. There's almost a meter between the motor and the rad as it is. Mounting an air to air intercooler would require 3 meters of pipe and hose between the turbo, intercooler and intake manifold.

Btw i have made some progress on the exhaust as well as the intercooler. Nobody had spare time to help me change the intake manifold to fit the intercooler, so I had a go at it my self. I've had no experience in welding aluminium, remember I started TIG-welding when I started making the downpipe. But I thought I might as well have a go at it. After all I knew that the TIG welder had to be on AC instead of DC to do it, how hard could it be?







And I found it a lot easier than I thought it would be to be honest! Or maybe it was beginner luck...

 

[crushers]

firewall clearence issues???
other than that looks real nice.

 

[Christian]

Thanks! Im guessing you don't know the truck we are putting it in to:
View attachment 325061
So no firewall issues there

 

[crushers]

LOL!!
yah, i guess no issues there...

 

[Christian]

Does anybody have any experience with
Tech Line Black Satin High Temp Ceramic Header Coating or something similar? My idea is to coat the inside of the turbo elbow. I think it might be a very good idea to keep as much heat inside the exhaust as possible. I have searched but haven't found anybody here who does it. I eventually found the product on Ebay, but the seller doesn't sell outside the US, bummer...

 

[toddm]

Does anybody have any experience with
Tech Line Black Satin High Temp Ceramic Header Coating or something similar? My idea is to coat the inside of the turbo elbow. I think it might be a very good idea to keep as much heat inside the exhaust as possible. I have searched but haven't found anybody here who does it. I eventually found the product on Ebay, but the seller doesn't sell outside the US, bummer...

You will want to coat your exhaust manifold and the turbine housing as well. Turbos work off of the heat energy in the exhaust so you want as much of it avaliable to drive the turbine as possible. After the turbine you still want to keep it in the exhaust so it will keep the engine bay temps as low as possible. We typically coat everything all the way to the end of the down pipe on our gas motors.

Typically a powdercoater with an oven thats capable of the higher temps can apply a nice ceramic coating for you.

Todd

 

[Christian]

Thanks for the reply Todd. I have found a guy who had some Satin Black. I bought a small jar from him and gave 75$

I haven't found any coaters here that could do the job... So I'll do my best, sandblasting, cleaning and breaking out the airbrush. I haven't got a oven for it so I'll have to let it air cure and the let the exhaust bake it.

 

[Christian]

Hi all!
The exhaust is done, and so is the intercooler so I thought you might want to see the 1KZ-T running in the Volvo frame:
YouTube - TerrainCruiser 3.0 Turbodiesel

 

[Free62]

Congrats on the fire up!! That's a great feeling isn't it....as evidenced be your grin.

 

[rchalmers3]

Cheers Christian, well done on the mods.

Rick