Looks great, some useful reading for myself, you'll have to let us know how it works out when the pedal gets mashed a few times!
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Guys,
Anyone have any experience with this product:
Barrel Style Water to Air Intercooler
From the specs it looks like it could be a reasonably priced alternative to the PWR barrels but I'm no intercooler expert. If folks have had good experience with this it could make my half dream stage intercooler project much more of a reality. I'd like to get your thoughts
with the intercooler rad slung right under the air condenser, mounted on the engine rad bracket, in front of the lower portion of the engine rad.
John, a little constructive questioning is following.....
I thought the advantage of the water/air inter-cooler was to be able to configure a system that:
a) did not place another heat load up in front of the radiator
b) allow for a dedicated fan to cool the charged air regardless of road speed.
c) shorten the charged air pathway
By the description of your intended install, I am not clear you will be achieving any of these benefits gained by the added complexity. Is there more to your design that gives the system an advantage over the simpler air/air method? What are your objectives? What are your calculated heat loads and system performance?
Rick
John,
I got you are looking for improvements for 80% of your driving habits. I'm way over here, with no horse in the race or dog in the fight, but.....
May I make a suggestion? If you have not already done so, I recommend you measure or carefully calculate your current charged air temperatures.
It would be educational to know (here come more a,b,c's):
a) how much heat there is available to extract, which would lead to
b) what system configuration will provide the desired results, within design considerations, leading to
c) installing the designed system and confirming the results
Do you remember that quote from the movie "Jurassic Park" where the scientist says: "they were so busy seeing if they could, they didn't bother to stop and ask if they should".
My point (opinion only) is, if you are running factory levels of boost, you are gonna be doing a lot of things to the charged air intake system to gain a little. If your plans including tweaking boost levels and fuel for increased power, well then..... if that is your goal, I'm all for it!!!
Cheers,
Rick
Rick,
As always you make good points and as usual you point out something that I may not have mentioned in this thread, I'm building a CT26 turbo for my 1HZ. So which will be ready first, complete putting together the turbo or gather all of the pieces of the intercooler system, remains to be seen The end result is the same, my 1HZ will get turbo charged and intercooled. As such I will be running not a crazy amount of boost, under 10psi, but well within the range for this engine. Anyway you cut it it won't be factory levels of non-turbo boost for the 1HZ, hence my interest in the intercooler.
As such I will be running not a crazy amount of boost, under 10psi, but well within the range for this engine.
It is funny but I had given some thought to installing a pyrometer before turbo install to get a sense of the pre-turbo EGTs.
dougal has the best advise. Saying what he said differently, for charged air under 10psi it will take a intercooler capable of heat extraction to below ambient air temperature to achieve results worth the effort.
There are tools available on the internet to calculate to a very close approximation everything you are considering: Your engines volumetric capacity, pressure and temperature rises when charging the intake air, intercooler efficiencies and so on. I can shoot you some addresses that have the tools, and recommend some reading if you want to evaluate and design a system.
I was actually referring to the charged intake air temperature. EGT's will show combustion temps, but it is difficult to extrapolate any meaningful information about intercooler effectiveness through exhaust gas temps.
Now that I have read your intended levels of boost, I don't think it will be useful to measure the charged air temps. Staying under 10psi will leave you in a safe zone of low heat addition.
Buzz kill, huh? Sorry man, tweak the thing to 1 bar and lets design your air/water intercooler!!!
Rick
I understand the point about having a certain amount of boost before there is a necessity to mount an intercooler, it sounds logical, but nevertheless the original manufactuerers like Toyota, Nissan, Mitzubishi, Mercedes etc. etc. does mount intercoolers while running at these low pressures, why is that then?
Under 10psi there is no point in an intercooler.
The pressure drop across it will probably reduce density more than the cooling of the air will increase it.
That was not my conclusion with water to air intercoller even if m'y wastegate is set to 10psi i got a good 100 to 150 deg f of temp drop at my egt
Here's some stuff to start with.
Some very general theory to consider regarding gas flow: Turbo Exhaust Theory
A condensed source of theory and formulas for calculating and designing: Amazon.com: Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance) (9780837601601): Corky Bell: Books
An online intake tract calculator for testing ideas, scenarios and learning what matters. Your T3 is mapped here: Not2Fast: Turbo Calculator
AXT offers graphs of stock and Turbo Toyota diesels. Link is to the 2H, you can sift through the site for your host motor: Toyota 2H Landcruiser 4.0 Turbocharger Kit
Hope this is sufficient to get you rolling!
Rick
Under 10 there's no point, 10 is about the point you start considering it.
By the time you're running 13-15psi you should be running one. I'm still running 20psi and no intercooler, but I again have access to fabrication workshops so I can sort that out.
Have you ever measured the temps either side of your intercooler?
A good healthy turbo will put out 10psi at about 85C (with 20C inlet).
Dougal,
I don't want to get into a long argument but I had a overheating problem when i was pulling my M101 going up hills (running 10psi heavy load), as soon as my EGT would reach 1000 deg F the block water temp would sky rocket very quickly to 230 and more.
I fitted the intercooler and it drop the egt between 100-150, so now i can run flat out pulling the trailer and water temps are steady. Still today running 10psi
Same thing would happened if i had my fuel set higher and going up long hills flat out without the trailer.
So i cannot agree with you. My conclusion were obvious, with a intercooler i could run higher fuel delivery without reaching max allowable EGT temp (before water temp would go crazy).
Eric