HD-FT water to air intercooler

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Quick update, i fitted the GMT turbo 2 days ago and spent a bit time setting up the injection.

Very happy with the results so far:

Bellow are the pressure reading in 4th and 5th gear with a low tune, barely any smoke.
500gr a 1200rpm
950gr a 1400rpm
1.2bar a 1600rpm
1.35bar a 1700rpm

I am very pleased with this reading since it is even better than what i had 15 years ago on my previous 80 (12v) and Grunter turbo from that time, (I had 1 bar at 1600rpm, surely this one must have improve too over the years)

I am maxed out on the factory setup, even know i spaced the the aneroid top cover to make full use of the boost pin ramp/stroke. Added 800rpm fuel on the main fuel screw, over the stock setting and 600rpm over my previous tune with the factory turbo at 950gr boost.
I am waiting my custom boost pins to improve it further more

Max seen EGT so far was 508 deg outside temp is low at about 5 to 10 degrees c

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Hi Dougal, thanks for the concern.

The threaded insert can’t fall off, there is no traction forces applied to them that are more of a centering devices for the rubber bushings than anything else. The radiator all assembly is in vertical compression with 2mm preload.

3d materials have a come a long way from pla. Which is softy squishy at 60 degrees and softening from 45/50 degrees.

The grey ish material is rated at 95 deg c for mechanical resistance, except for planning to go through fires, there is no way it get to this temps in this locations. Even more with coolant circulating.

The black intake is rated at 150 degrees, it being post intercooler, i doubt it will see more than 60/80 degrees at worst. On my previous 80 i could put my hand the intake manifold in desert trips, so it was in the 60 range, bellow 80 for sure.

I was pleasantly surprised by the thread-ability of this plastics.

The down side is you need high temps printers and some preparation to print this kind of materials

The rated temps for printed materials are largely fiction. The two big unavoidable issues are creep and thermal expansion.

Materials creep when they're subjected to stress at over half their absolute melting temperature. It happens to metals. Lead will suffer creep and failure when stressed at room temp.
Lead has a melting temp of 327C.

Anything you are 3D printing likely has a lower melting temp than that and will creep to failure. The stress it will suffer that causes it to creep is from installation (hose clamps, bolts) and the thermal expansion being very different to the metals it is fastened to.

What are the materials you used?

Is your turbo just a high-flow CT26? Turbine housing numbers and compressor scroll match.
 
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Hi, i guess if we don’t try we will never know, experimenting is to me full part of my hobbies.

I used PET CF, for this part as it is rated at 150 deg , as low creep, and relatively low susceptibility to absorb ambient humidity leading to creep or material expansion.

I also have PA12 CF which is rated at even higher temp ( close to 200 deg) but is more susceptible to humidity. I was planing to use this one on the hot side of the intercooler but did not need finally.

Most modern cars have plastic PA 6 or PA6 GF material manifold, tubing , intercooler end tanks and many other parts such as oil filter housing etc. the lc100 had intercooler tubing hot and cold side made of such materials.

If it fails i will sure share my findings.
Just as i have a slight leak/ sweat of coolant through some layers of my abs infill parts when the system is under pressure, i would need to use different settings or make the system without pressure.
 
I have used this same core as they seem to perform well in testing,
so you are taking around 40+deg c out of iat ? is that correct
and did you test pressure drop across the core as well?
 
I had 950gr with the oem turbo am shim on wastegate without intercooler, i then had 850/900gr intake manifold pressure once ic was fitted. Then i swaped the turbo for the GMT one.

I haven’t done proper pressure drop measurment, no.
 
This core was juste the biggest i could fit without touching the bonnet, there is 15mm gap between the rocker cover and the intercooler and also about 10/15mm between the intercooler and the bonnet lining.
 
Great setup. Thinking of something like that for my 12HT.
What sensors are you using to monitor intake air temperature?
Is the new turbo copressor housing larger than stock? I hace sone room constraints in my engine bay (BJ73)
Regards.
 
Hi Mark,

The turbo is a drop in replacement, its outside geometry are identical to the orginal one as far as i could see, ref on the hot housing is different than oem but the outside looks identical.

Temp probes for the intake are ntc, good for up to 120 deg temp measurments, above you will need other types. Ntc’s are cheap and available all over aliexpress and amazon. I had to buy aditionnal probes to the one delivered with the displays as i wanted some specific lengh and M8 threads to secure them properly, my intake sensor is 40mm long to be well in the air flow, the pre intercooler is only 20mm long a bit on the short side
Egt is a K type probe
 
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Hi all, i changed the cooling circuit routing, instead of having the filling neck in serial, i put it in parallel to the circuit, that way i do not have stagnating coolant there and no leak/sweating anymore, it is also shorter to the pump. I replaced most of the feeding hose section to the pump by a 25mm inner diameter. I also added a drain port at the lowest point for ease of service. The little hose at the top still works perfect at flushing bubbles to the caps.

Working well now.

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(stands up, starts applauding)

That is just beautiful work. Keep us posted on longevity of the plastics!
 
Awesome work. I have the plazmaman water to air intercooler and the pdi intercooler in my garage but really dont like the big pipes in the pdi intercooler crowding the engine bay. You have swayed me to the water to air intercooler set up.
 
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Hi all, first highway 300km test with mild temperature. 22/25 degrees c.
110km/h, 2600rpm, egt 250deg, boost 800gr, pre ic temp 96/98 degrees, post ic70 degrees, on grades i have 300/350, 1/1.2 bar, 105 pre ic and 76 post ic.

I need to change the pre ic sensor, it is a bit on the short side and i believe the reading is probably 10 degrees lower then the real one. Post ic i have a 40mm long probe perfectly centered in the air flow.

I feel this being a bit on the high side, i suspect poor water dispersion in the ic.
I will do a few more tests but i might have to go for an ic with a longer exchange surface rather than wide as this one.

So far the intake printed piece is holding well.

For ref my hdfte lc100 had AIT at 90degrees when loaded up hill and also about 70 at cruise with its factory IC
 
more water flow will help, better pump bigger lines, resevoir etc
on youtube tests that one does better than the longer barrel types
 
I have a top notch pump already, bushless and i have a 3 speed controler, no big difference in temp between 70% and 100% pump flow, 5 degrees or about. Lines are 19mm ID.

I will try to pressurise the system a bit more with a check valve on the IC water output.
 
On the water end tanks, there is barely 5mm space between the tank and the core, i suspect the water doesn’t disperse properly / evenly through the core.
 
ya, could be
 
Hi all, first highway 300km test with mild temperature. 22/25 degrees c.
110km/h, 2600rpm, egt 250deg, boost 800gr, pre ic temp 96/98 degrees, post ic70 degrees, on grades i have 300/350, 1/1.2 bar, 105 pre ic and 76 post ic.

I need to change the pre ic sensor, it is a bit on the short side and i believe the reading is probably 10 degrees lower then the real one. Post ic i have a 40mm long probe perfectly centered in the air flow.

I feel this being a bit on the high side, i suspect poor water dispersion in the ic.
I will do a few more tests but i might have to go for an ic with a longer exchange surface rather than wide as this one.

So far the intake printed piece is holding well.

For ref my hdfte lc100 had AIT at 90degrees when loaded up hill and also about 70 at cruise with its factory IC

What is your cooling water temp? I had results not much different to that two decades ago with simply 2m of 3/8" copper tube inside an intake pipe.
 
What is your cooling water temp? I had results not much different to that two decades ago with simply 2m of 3/8" copper tube inside an intake pipe.
Hi, i haven’t installed water temp sensors yet, only air temp, but i will soon, i need to by a small display for them. Will put one pre and one post ic.
 
Hi, i haven’t installed water temp sensors yet, only air temp, but i will soon, i need to by a small display for them. Will put one pre and one post ic.

Just move the pre air temp wiring to the water temp.
 

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