Intercooler theory and sizing debate

[crushers]

revs do not crack heads, heat does.

NA diesels do not need back pressure

there is some misinformation in this thread.

finally, if an engine has a BAD reputation for cracking heads due to piss poor design, why run it? you are just throwing good money after bad.

 

[Christian]

I think I might have stirred a bee-hive starting this thread...

But I have heard, read ang experienced this engine to be a good engine. I have personal experience with one cracked head and that was due to not checking neither oil nor water and then tow a 7,000lbs trailer at more than highway speeds (130km/h) I must point out that it was not me doing it!

The head cracked, but upon inspection it was discovered that the engine had run on less than 2/3 of the coolant needed. And the owner used the cheapest (I mean really, the CHEAPEST) oil possible. 10W/40 used on farm equipment like lawnmowers. No attention to filters or anything!

After a head change and upon using the correct oil the engine purred along nicely with no other damage detectable. The last time I saw the car it had done 100,000+ km's after the head change.

As for the general discussion on back-pressure or not, I have to state that I for one am a firm believer in that turbos do not need back-pressure. I have not seen any evidence that they do anywhere. And although not a proffesional mechanic, I do know a bit about engines, and am willing to research what I do not know.
But - ther's allways a but- It seems like Syche has some real world experience. I suggest that this is not dismissed right off.

So Syche, could you tell us exactly what you have done to yours?

Lastly, let's keep as polite a tone as possible. I see differences in opinion on these subjects as a possibility to learn more.

Crusher I find your statement "piss poor design" a bit over the top. I can name a lot of engines which by comparison is a lot worse! This model engine has a lot to offer and is widely used in a lot of different model. Just not in the US. I do not know what your experience is, but if you are basing your oppinion on what most critism on this engine is based on, namely hearsay on the interweb, then don't believe it. We (in europe) have them here in cruisers, Hiluxes, Hiaces and Dynas. And the general opinion is that it is a great motor! Sure, there has been head issues, but I have not encountered one which have had a second head change.

Dougal, when you say "As for bad use, well a heavy 6x6 vehicle will give it exactly that." I have to stress that this is not a heavy 6x6. I dare you to find a lighter 6x6 actually! We have a GVW that is just about the same as the KZJ78 was designed for!

 

[syche]

The vehicles I know of were original toyota, not cheap head replacements.
Why do you keep saying that high revs will kill it? High revs certainly accelerate wear, but something is badly wrong if an engine will die from that alone.

All the guys i know who did a head, and the previous owner of mine aswell, had the issue after a long higway trip running over 140km/h. And none of them had seeing any overheating issue.
The cooling system, at least on the KZJ 7 series is really serious and as long as you run it with the right coolant and in good condition you won't have any overheating issue.

As for bad use, well a heavy 6x6 vehicle will give it exactly that. Overheating doesn't seem to be the cause of these head issues.

I have a good one for small engine and heavy truck. As my working trucs i got different model of VW transporter T5 crafter and LT, all over loaded at about 4 to 4.5 metric tonnes. 2.5L TD engine. I had to kick hard on them but it was running good.
The Volvo will have very low gearing even with 900R16 with the factory toyota gearboxes. The weight will not be an issue at all in this case. the engine will laugh of it with such a gearing.


That is a huge power difference you are talking about there. To run at 120km/h up what was an 80 km/h hill takes more than 50% more power.
An exhaust would have to be virtually plugged to cause that much difference.

Well, believe it or not, that is the fact. I felt like i lost my turbo when i tryed it. i left it like for 2 months as i was missing time, then changed it again. My turbo was back, and even better.

The torque on the turbine is the result of the pressure difference, heat and mass flow.
Without exception, more pressure downstream of the turbo will hinder it's operation.
The only time a manufacturer would spec a minimum backpressure is to avoid overspeeding a very small turbo. This isn't a performance issue, but a reliability issue.

Well i am not an engine designer, i just tell you what i have been told oand verify on my car.

I have found the opposite. The 1KD engines with their variable vane turbos have far superior low and midrange torque to the 1KZ. The reason they use more fuel offroad is simple, they have more power and the drivers use it.

Same deal with the 100 vs 80. The 100 can burn a lot more diesel if you want it to. Despite being in a bigger and heavier body, the 100 burns similar amounts of fuel to an 80 driven at the same speed.

For this 2, sorry but we verified it several time during african trips. They have more power and much better fuel milleage but on road yes 200% agree. On trips we are loaded about the same food for a month, 50L water, 120/150L extra fuel spares wheels, roofrack + our gears....(and I carry all the tools and the compressor for inflating tires (AC modified), driving the same speed, we are used to travel together for many years now, and we all have experience of driving in this conditions. I am also the openner for the hard pass and the only one going to find the way out on hard dune , and 90% of the time..alone. the 2 resque car were my friend 80 (always 250L extra fuel, we call him the gas station) and my ex KZJ 73. My new 80 is on coming but not ready. Next march, 1 month in south algerian desert.

As soon as it gets hard, they can't follow and use fuel like hell. I tried them myself as i did not understood what was wrong. Well i was happy to have my old budy.

So again i am not inside the cylinder, but this is our experiences.



One more thing, If you use HD-T and KZ-T in dusty condition like you will do, as i understand you plan to go to africa, change the T belt every 60 000km max. dust find it's way behind the cover via the drain hole, and the tensionner bearing doesn't appreciate it very much




Now regarding the C306 itself...the original engine is a 6 inline i think. Is there really not enough room to fit........a 12H-t engine. You will have a big gearing problem as it will be far too short gearing but that is a kind of tuff stuff. And it won't be affraid of poor diesel with it's inline pump (lybian diesel love to kill rotary pumps..poor lubrification)
Can we get more pics of this truck?

 

[syche]

A test i like to do to see if the enigne will like soft sand

On my ex KZJ...2nd long gear, car stoped. Clutch in without splining it at all, it jumped forward.

KDJ engine in first gear same test..dead. ungraded or not

HDJ 80 12V same test. not upgraded, 1 it take it, 2 it is limit. upgraded, 2 easy

24V...upgrade absolutely needed on this one other wise forget about dune and soft sand in river bed. with upgrade it become as the 12V

HDJ 100...same as the 24V. Adonis help a lot but still not as good as the 12 or 24V HDJ80 upgraded.

I need to add, all same tires, BF mud 265 75R16

Electronic control IP has a iddle controle witch help them a little but not enough, they limit the fuel...a little too much.

This very low rev torque make the difference in getting unstucked in soft sand, the torque at the really bottom. The car crawl and get out. The other need to push the throttle and dig down...sling.......

it also help when you miss estimate a dune and are a little short in speed on top, old budys goes with hell of a smoke, the newer..dies on top....sling or plates..

Christian if you need mapping or good adress for north africa, i have good links

 

[crushers]

calling an Ace of spades "black" is over the top?
this engine has issues, OIL has nothing to do with head cracking. it has everything to do with ring wear, bearing wear but NOTHING to do with head cracking.
having a steel bolt in a alloy head has nothing to do with head cracking.
coolant, EGTs are the only thing that had anything to do with head cracking.

you like the engine, good for you. that doesn't change the fact that the KZ is a piss poor designed engine. i would not recommend one, the history of that engine does not denote a reliable engine... it actually screams "run away"/ but as usual if someone loves something then they will not see the faults or they will make light of the faults.

each to their own, crap head design = crap engine.

it REALLY is that simple.

Crusher I find your statement "piss poor design" a bit over the top. I can name a lot of engines which by comparison is a lot worse! This model engine has a lot to offer and is widely used in a lot of different model. Just not in the US. I do not know what your experience is, but if you are basing your oppinion on what most critism on this engine is based on, namely hearsay on the interweb, then don't believe it. We (in europe) have them here in cruisers, Hiluxes, Hiaces and Dynas. And the general opinion is that it is a great motor! Sure, there has been head issues, but I have not encountered one which have had a second head change.

 

[Christian]

calling an Ace of spades "black" is over the top?
this engine has issues, OIL has nothing to do with head cracking. it has everything to do with ring wear, bearing wear but NOTHING to do with head cracking.
having a steel bolt in a alloy head has nothing to do with head cracking.
coolant, EGTs are the only thing that had anything to do with head cracking.

you like the engine, good for you. that doesn't change the fact that the KZ is a piss poor designed engine. i would not recommend one, the history of that engine does not denote a reliable engine... it actually screams "run away"/ but as usual if someone loves something then they will not see the faults or they will make light of the faults.

each to their own, crap head design = crap engine.

it REALLY is that simple.

No, but I find the way you communicate over the top! I cannot for the life of me see any reason to come over as such a, in lack of better words, smart ass. You enter a discussion starting by saying that the engine being discussed is a "piss-poor design".
When called on it, in a very civil way, where I stated that I thought your comment was"a bit over the top", and asked you to elaborate on your knowlegde of the engine, and you reply as above.

You have obviously not even read my post, as I stated that no coolant was the reason for the head to crack, not the oil.

Nor have you read Syche's point about the steel bolt in the alloy head. The point was that too little clearance between the two and differences in heat expansion caused stress.

you like yourself, good for you. that doesn't change the fact that you are a piss poor communicator. But as usual if someone loves themselves then they will not see the faults or they will make light of the faults.

Now regarding the C306 itself...the original engine is a 6 inline i think. Is there really not enough room to fit........a 12H-t engine. You will have a big gearing problem as it will be far too short gearing but that is a kind of tuff stuff. And it won't be affraid of poor diesel with it's inline pump (lybian diesel love to kill rotary pumps..poor lubrification)
Can we get more pics of this truck?

Well, in short no. It has been done, but the 1KZ-T + gearbox is actually longer than the stock B30 in-line 6 cylinder Volvo engine.
And why would I choose a 12H-T over the 1KZ-T other than diesel issues? I know some use vegetable oil on the 1KZ-T without any issues. How does it cope with "3rd world diesel"?


This brings me to a point I have concidered several times in this and other debates over choice of engine. I have a sneaking suspicion that if I had chosen a 2H or a 12H-T no one would have critizised the size. Eventhough power output, both HP and torque, is better on the 1KZ. Some might say that real-world torque is better in the low end on the 12H-T, but remember i have a 1:7.1 gearing!

Another issue is the head cracking. Which of these Toyota diesel engines do not crack heads:

1. 2H
2. 12H-T
3. 3B
4. 2LT
5. 1KZ-T
6. (just add one by own choosing)

Beware, it's a trick question, they all do! It's a known issue with Toyota diesels. My 2H had a cracked head, it is nearly impossible to find a clean un-cracked 2H head here for that exact reason (not that I used them all of course!) And it has been the same with them all...

But it seems like the internet sometimes aggravate some issues, while downplay others in a very random way. Another example is the hype there was here a couple of years ago about the H55F.
I know you guys in the US didn't get them from Toyota, and therefore they where exotic. But I have seen them praised as being the end-all manual gearbox, which by no means they are! In fact they have a rather bad rep here, being an original four-speed, with a fifth slammed on. I have seen numourous HJ60's and 61's driving around with a bungee-cord around the gearstick in order to keep it in fifth.

Once again, I would like to ask everyone to keep a civil tone. The point was to have a constructive debate, not just critizising others.

 

[Christian]

I am sorry for the rant above, I have gotten some really great info and advise from a lot of you, like Dougal and the very obvious disadvantages of the twinpass intercooler which I had overlooked. Advise like that is exactly why i openedthis thread.
It is also great to hear from ishobie and others who have had head issues. I will be sure to check it thoroughly and make it easily accessible. Since the package has only costed us around 350 US$ we might even change the head to a post 2003 just to be sure.

As I have wondred about Syche's real-world experience and claims about back-pressure I've had some thoughts about it. There might be several other explanations than pure back-pressure or no back-pressure.

With the dump-valve and the turbo exiting side-by-side it might be critical to get the right flow away from the turbo. A badly designed, but big turbo-elbow might circulate exhaust gasses from the dump-valve and thereby slowing the exhaust so the actual backpressure is greater than standard, eventhough the exhaust and elbow is bigger.

An exhaust that is too big might slow the gasses. like a big river flows slower than a narrow stream (bad analogy, I know, I hope you get the picture) My point is, after reading some more on the net, that a correctly designed exhaust might expell the gasses in such a self-enhancing way. This is supported by some forums claiming negative back-pressure in a correct designed exhaust.

The place where the exhaust tip is might have something to say. Some of you might have heard debates about turning snorkels in to areas with higher pressure due to wind meeting e.g. the window. imagine the same when putting the exhaust out just by the wheel or something like that. Without a wind tunnel the best idea must be to put it out back, where there's negative pressure.

This one's a stretch, and a testament to my imagination, feel free to ridicule it, but here goes; as the very hot exhaust gasses exit the turbo and enter the cold exhaust they will have a certain speed. Hitting the cold exhaust, the gasses will contract while maintaining momentum, thus creating a suction effect, drawing more gasses out.

 

[rchalmers3]

To charge your intakes, the cold wheel from your turbo need speed for the flow, but need torque for the charge. And the torque is a result of pressure on the hot wheel.

syche, I looked for a few minutes on the internet, looking for confirmation that turbos work better with some restriction. While there are some marine applications with special circumstances due to underwater exhaust routing, I found nothing about increasing performance using back pressure.

The only thing I could find is a discussion about modern engines are using exhaust restriction, but not for power. They are developing both road and racing turbo engines with exhaust restriction because the engineers have selected a small size turbo and are building in restriction to limit over revving the turbo at higher engine speeds.

The idea of selecting a smaller turbo will surely provide better performance at low and medium engine speeds, at the possible determent to high rpm turbo eficiency. Are you telling us you have also selected a undersized turbo and are guarding against over revving it?

If not, can you please provide us with any research documents, studies or other reports that provide some explaination to using exhaust restriction to increase performance on a turbo diesel? If it's in French, that's OK, I can translate it.

There is a preponderance of published theories, studies, and scientific results over the past 6 decades contradicting your assumptions and experiences. I highly encourage you to use this forum to educate us on what is apparently a new finding.

You can just look at all the race toyota 4wd used on Dakar race, they don't use big exaust, have a small muffler and get hell of power and torque even with the race regulation restrictor on it (to mount on intakes after turbo).

Just to be sure, this is a diesel? What do you have from Toyota that says the maximum air allowed through the engine is restricted by the exhaust? Could it be that the intake restrictor is just that? And the exhaust is appropriately sized for no restriction?

syche, please do not read my questions as challenges to you personally. I do however stridently challenge your theories, even if you do say you experience emperical results. I have found many people who claim their motor goes better because it makes more noise or vibrates more! So please understand my doubt, and provide us with somthing from an engineering school or racing development team.


And thank you for communicating to us in our native tongue.

Merci,

Rick

 

[sandcruiser]

slight sidetrack:

Christian, have you considered a more aerodynamic shape for the cabin you are building? I would guess that by sloping the portion that is over the cab you will gain a lot of power/economy and save some wear on the motor.

An even better approach might be to do a pop-up top, and make the whole thing level with the top of the cab.

I can't tell from your sketch, but it seems to me that your current design adds a lot of frontal area.

Final thought: I've seen plenty of dyna trucks running around with "small" diesel motors, and they seem to work just fine. I look forward to hearing about your results!

 

[crushers]

LOL!!
quote:
But I have heard, read ang experienced this engine to be a good engine. I have personal experience with one cracked head and that was due to not checking neither oil nor water and then tow a 7,000lbs trailer at more than highway speeds (130km/h) I must point out that it was not me doing it!

The head cracked, but upon inspection it was discovered that the engine had run on less than 2/3 of the coolant needed. And the owner used the cheapest (I mean really, the CHEAPEST) oil possible.
end quote.

if your point was not oil then why did you post the above?

the HEAD is a piss poor design. the coolant that was missing, was it before the crack was discovered of after? IF after then how do you know it wasn't the cracked head that pissed out the coolant?

i am a smart ass, that is irrelevant to the discussion of your post. you made assumtions that do not jive with the resulting head cracking and at no time have you proven the head design is a good one. poor head = poor engine.

what do you not understand?

i have yet to come across a cracked 2H/12HT head, i have seen a few 3B heads that were cracked (all well over the 400K mark) and i have seen the cause. i KNOW all the L series and C series and the KZ series have the same design with bad cooling routing in the head design.

ummm, how many 2H, 12HT, 13BT, 1PZ, 1HZ, HDT heads have you seen cracked?

the H55F is a great tranny, smooth shifting, strong, excellent gear spacing and i suspect the ones you have seen bungie corded are well over the 300K mark.

each to thier own, i like what i like and i have no issue with pointing out the flaws...

No, but I find the way you communicate over the top! I cannot for the life of me see any reason to come over as such a, in lack of better words, smart ass. You enter a discussion starting by saying that the engine being discussed is a "piss-poor design".
When called on it, in a very civil way, where I stated that I thought your comment was"a bit over the top", and asked you to elaborate on your knowlegde of the engine, and you reply as above.

You have obviously not even read my post, as I stated that no coolant was the reason for the head to crack, not the oil.

Nor have you read Syche's point about the steel bolt in the alloy head. The point was that too little clearance between the two and differences in heat expansion caused stress.

you like yourself, good for you. that doesn't change the fact that you are a piss poor communicator. But as usual if someone loves themselves then they will not see the faults or they will make light of the faults.



Well, in short no. It has been done, but the 1KZ-T + gearbox is actually longer than the stock B30 in-line 6 cylinder Volvo engine.
And why would I choose a 12H-T over the 1KZ-T other than diesel issues? I know some use vegetable oil on the 1KZ-T without any issues. How does it cope with "3rd world diesel"?


This brings me to a point I have concidered several times in this and other debates over choice of engine. I have a sneaking suspicion that if I had chosen a 2H or a 12H-T no one would have critizised the size. Eventhough power output, both HP and torque, is better on the 1KZ. Some might say that real-world torque is better in the low end on the 12H-T, but remember i have a 1:7.1 gearing!

Another issue is the head cracking. Which of these Toyota diesel engines do not crack heads:

1. 2H
2. 12H-T
3. 3B
4. 2LT
5. 1KZ-T
6. (just add one by own choosing)

Beware, it's a trick question, they all do! It's a known issue with Toyota diesels. My 2H had a cracked head, it is nearly impossible to find a clean un-cracked 2H head here for that exact reason (not that I used them all of course!) And it has been the same with them all...

But it seems like the internet sometimes aggravate some issues, while downplay others in a very random way. Another example is the hype there was here a couple of years ago about the H55F.
I know you guys in the US didn't get them from Toyota, and therefore they where exotic. But I have seen them praised as being the end-all manual gearbox, which by no means they are! In fact they have a rather bad rep here, being an original four-speed, with a fifth slammed on. I have seen numourous HJ60's and 61's driving around with a bungee-cord around the gearstick in order to keep it in fifth.

Once again, I would like to ask everyone to keep a civil tone. The point was to have a constructive debate, not just critizising others.

 

[Christian]

slight sidetrack:

Christian, have you considered a more aerodynamic shape for the cabin you are building? I would guess that by sloping the portion that is over the cab you will gain a lot of power/economy and save some wear on the motor.

An even better approach might be to do a pop-up top, and make the whole thing level with the top of the cab.

I can't tell from your sketch, but it seems to me that your current design adds a lot of frontal area.

Final thought: I've seen plenty of dyna trucks running around with "small" diesel motors, and they seem to work just fine. I look forward to hearing about your results!

We have not desided the final design yet. The only "must have" in regards to front design is a bed over the cab. So we will make it as aerodynamical as possible, but Legos will be Legos!

We have thought about the pop-top, but has desided against it. The reason are (in no order of importance) added complexity, canvas in Scandinavian weather is "roughing it" a bit more than we want to and we do not want to have to do "stuff" when we park in order to use the camper area.

Good point on the Dynas!

 

[Dougal]

Since the package has only costed us around 350 US$ we might even change the head to a post 2003 just to be sure.

With a head change it would become an engine I'd be confident to drive and at your purchase price it's still a good deal.

Of course if you were in need of a project, put 1KD pistons and head on and build some injectors to fit the head. Viola, direct injection 3 litre mechanical diesel. The engine toyota should have made in the first place.

The two family members of mine with post 2003 1KZ's have not had any issues.

 

[Christian]

LOL!!
quote:
But I have heard, read ang experienced this engine to be a good engine. I have personal experience with one cracked head and that was due to not checking neither oil nor water and then tow a 7,000lbs trailer at more than highway speeds (130km/h) I must point out that it was not me doing it!

The head cracked, but upon inspection it was discovered that the engine had run on less than 2/3 of the coolant needed. And the owner used the cheapest (I mean really, the CHEAPEST) oil possible.
end quote.

if your point was not oil then why did you post the above?

I can see how it could be interpreted like you did, my fault

the HEAD is a piss poor design. the coolant that was missing, was it before the crack was discovered of after? IF after then how do you know it wasn't the cracked head that pissed out the coolant?

I know because the crack did not result in water leakage, but oil and compression leakage.

i am a smart ass, that is irrelevant to the discussion of your post.

It is by no means irrelevant, because statement like:

you like the engine, good for you. that doesn't change the fact that the KZ is a piss poor designed engine. i would not recommend one, the history of that engine does not denote a reliable engine... it actually screams "run away"/ but as usual if someone loves something then they will not see the faults or they will make light of the faults.

each to their own, crap head design = crap engine.

it REALLY is that simple.

Is by no means a constructive participation in a debate. Especially since you have yet to state where you have all your experience from.

you made assumtions that do not jive with the resulting head cracking and at no time have you proven the head design is a good one. poor head = poor engine.

what do you not understand?

What I don't understand is your tone. Why do you feel obligated to come across as a patronising know-it-all?

i have yet to come across a cracked 2H/12HT head, i have seen a few 3B heads that were cracked (all well over the 400K mark) and i have seen the cause. i KNOW all the L series and C series and the KZ series have the same design with bad cooling routing in the head design.

ummm, how many 2H, 12HT, 13BT, 1PZ, 1HZ, HDT heads have you seen cracked?

You state what you state without giving a clue to your experience with the engine. Three posts ago I asked you what your experience with the engine is, you have given none.

I have first hand experience with 3 cracked 2H heads, still owning two of them, I have seen1 12HT and 2 3B heads personally. And have close friends and cruiser enthusiasts here who have had personal experience with a lot more than that.

And I have personal long-time experience with the early 90-series mentioned above, with the cracked head. It belonged to very close friends, whom I worked for for a couple of years. I knew the car from it was brand new until it was finally sold of at eleven years of age. After the incident with the head I serviced it on a regular basis, It saw more than 300,000km, more than 2/3 of them towing a 7,000lbs trailer.

the H55F is a great tranny, smooth shifting, strong, excellent gear spacing and i suspect the ones you have seen bungie corded are well over the 300K mark.

MY TURN! ummm, how many H55F have you owned? Known?, Seen?
I have owned 5, of which 3 was bad. They are known in 60's circles here for doing as desribed. It can be fixed, but it's not cheap! Did you even know there's an early model and a late model with a stronger fifth gear?

each to thier own, i like what i like and i have no issue with pointing out the flaws...

Exactly! And thank someone for that! But that does not mean we have to put down what others have. We can easily state differences in opinion in a civilized manner, like rchalmers3 just did above.

 

[Dougal]

Well, believe it or not, that is the fact. I felt like i lost my turbo when i tryed it. i left it like for 2 months as i was missing time, then changed it again. My turbo was back, and even better

Lets check this out a little more.

Without a functioning turbo, a 1KZ would be down to almost exactly 2/3 power. This is pretty much the result you got. Changed exhaust, performance similar to a non-turbo engine. Replace exhaust again and back to normal or slightly better than normal.

Just a theory, but did the guys who fitted your exhaust remove the turbo or wastegate actuator to do so? It sounds to me like a wastegate arm was left hanging or something similar. Then quietly fixed with the next exhaust fitting.

 

[crushers]

ummm, i am from Canada where we did get the H55F from 1983 to 1987 direct from Toyota in the BJ70, BJ60 and the BJ42.
then when i started importing from Japan in 2001 we recieved them in the HJ61, BJ74, BJ73, HZJ77, FJ75, HZJ75.
i have lost count of the number of cruisers i have owned with the H55F in them over the last 30 years of being a Cruiserhead. hell, i lost count of the cruisers i have owned ... a few years back.

as for earlier / later model H55F, nope. but just checked and behold there is a change up part number in Jan 1990 that runs through to sept 99... interesting. good to know. thanks.

now then you have owned 5, 3 bad ... but how many km on them?

MY TURN! ummm, how many H55F have you owned? Known?, Seen?
I have owned 5, of which 3 was bad. They are known in 60's circles here for doing as desribed. It can be fixed, but it's not cheap! Did you even know there's an early model and a late model with a stronger fifth gear?

 

[crushers]

that sounds very logical...

Lets check this out a little more.
Just a theory, but did the guys who fitted your exhaust remove the turbo or wastegate actuator to do so? It sounds to me like a wastegate arm was left hanging or something similar. Then quietly fixed with the next exhaust fitting.

 

[sandcruiser]

whoa. Did Crushers just agree with Dougal?

 

[syche]

Hey guys, it is a forum to change experience, learn from it, and go forward, so Peace and love man.

For my case, again i have only the learrning by doing. As soon as i have a little time, i will look for some link about this exaust. But it will be french, sorry guys. your friend google translator will do fine.

For the exaust on my KZJ73 i did it myself and did not touch at any time to the turbo.
On Dakar race there is more and more diesel, and Since toyota produce 12ht.. hdt..kzt they are well represented on the race due to the power they can produce.
On a Dakar witch is a tuff thing for the engines, KZT engines are boost to...210HP most of them with Adonis kits. And this for 8 to 10 000km really hard use. And engines doesn't dies in one season.
HDJ100...250, 300HP on race. I tryed one of them, still very low torque at the bottom, but pass 1700/1800RPM, you get kicked in the seat, up to 4000. It is actually too much, not nice to drive off race.

Techinox exaust are very well known in france and in europe for racing exaust. But they still drivable on road as they are just a little bit noiser than the factory ones. But much better in power gain.

I was talking about the 12HT for the C306 because......it is driving like a real truck engine and it is 24 V as the Volvo i think.

Christian, my friend told me you don't have the 7 serie KZJ in DK, if you need parts for the cooler for exemple, there is plenty of them in france. We have somme very good scraper rebuilting them and adding guaranty.
If you have no AC, you can install your own tire station very easilly, i have pics if you need.

One more thing, Do you know Vestas? Stupide me, it is like asking you do you know lego . Well i am in China at the moment Soon back in EU

I started travlling in africa with a rodeo TD 2.5L VM egine last generation from 97. This is an engine with extremelly bad reputation. I don't think you can actually find worst. all my friends and new mates were laughting carzy.
Full loaded, that was underpowered, very low ground clearance and 215 85R16 tires. i use 2 days to get the point on driving it in soft dunes.
My mates had HDJ 80 or 100.

This was a very good school on how to drive in desert. I never felt like i could not follow, the driving style was more surfing than driving but after this first 2 days i got stucked only 2 time in 2 weeks sand.
First trip i had huge temp problem, actually on highway already. trip finished, i made 1, 8mm hole in the thermosthat (after having replacing it 2 times..).....all the next trips i was building ice in the cooling system ....

I did 140Mkm with it, trips and dailly drive, i got hot...i don't count how many time, and i never did a head.. And over all, was also very happy of the torque at low rev from this engine, it pulled me out several time of deep sh..t...in dunes.

Turbine is calling me

 

[syche]

Hi all, i just found this

Glasspack - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Thrush Exhaust - Products Page - Welded, Turbo, Glasspack, Headerback
HowStuffWorks "How Mufflers Work"
http://www.thrushexhaust.com/pdf/thrush.pdf
We use the straight through

But on the how it works, they don't say anything about the scoop inside the inertube.....

 

[syche]

Found this on the french forum.

But you will need to translate
Echappement Glaspack. - Page 2 - Forum 4x4

Same experiences as i had ....so