Instructions on EGR removal on 2LTE (1 Viewer)

[digitalbuck]

I'm sure there is something on here somewhere with some help on removing the EGR system effectively, can anyone point me to the right spot? I've done some searching and came up short but I think I remember seeing some pretty good instructions sometime. Thanks!

 

[AirheadNut]

I disabled/removed my EGR system a few months ago: 1990 LJ78 in Montana (page 2)
It is a pretty easy job. I didn't remove all of the components because I didn't have the materials to make block off plates, but I took out all of the vacuum lines, put a block off gasket in the intake side of the system, and removed both throttle plates. It made a big difference.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

There are a few good LJ threads on this forum now. AirheadNut has done some excellent work, and here is another one with good pictures: My LJ78 build thread... Not specifically the EGR, but definitely some ideas.

Edit: Here is another thread on LJ stuff and shows the EGR bits that can be removed: My LJ 78 Prado

Basically remove those items, install block off plates (exhaust and intake manifolds). Leave electrical plugs disconnected, plug off vacuum source (vacuum lines will only go to transfer case VSV's on driver side firewall after this). Permanently set the small throttle plate to open, or remove it (and larger throttle plate if you want - recommend doing this).

Another great upgrade item is the Tridon 88C high flow thermostat. Great for good fuel economy (ECU does best at 88C), and also flows well for good cooling under high load. Tridon High Flow Thermostat TOYOTA HILUX DIESEL 2L 2LTE 3L 5L 5LE 88-05

 

[digitalbuck]

I disabled/removed my EGR system a few months ago: 1990 LJ78 in Montana (page 2)
It is a pretty easy job. I didn't remove all of the components because I didn't have the materials to make block off plates, but I took out all of the vacuum lines, put a block off gasket in the intake side of the system, and removed both throttle plates. It made a big difference.

Thanks for the info. Have you seen any improvement in performance at all?

 

[digitalbuck]

There are a few good LJ threads on this forum now. AirheadNut has done some excellent work, and here is another one with good pictures: My LJ78 build thread... Not specifically the EGR, but definitely some ideas.

Edit: Here is another thread on LJ stuff and shows the EGR bits that can be removed: My LJ 78 Prado

Basically remove those items, install block off plates (exhaust and intake manifolds). Leave electrical plugs disconnected, plug off vacuum source (vacuum lines will only go to transfer case VSV's on driver side firewall after this). Permanently set the small throttle plate to open, or remove it (and larger throttle plate if you want - recommend doing this).

Another great upgrade item is the Tridon 88C high flow thermostat. Great for good fuel economy (ECU does best at 88C), and also flows well for good cooling under high load. Tridon High Flow Thermostat TOYOTA HILUX DIESEL 2L 2LTE 3L 5L 5LE 88-05

Awesome. Thanks!

 

[AirheadNut]

Thanks for the info. Have you seen any improvement in performance at all?

Definitely. I haven't seen much of an increase in MPG, but the removal of the throttle plates vastly improved low end torque and made it much nicer to drive. Basically it allows maximum airflow to the engine at all times, instead of just at full throttle. Removing the EGR keeps everything cleaner and cooler.

 

[hoc4197]

Definitely. I haven't seen much of an increase in MPG, but the removal of the throttle plates vastly improved low end torque and made it much nicer to drive. Basically it allows maximum airflow to the engine at all times, instead of just at full throttle. Removing the EGR keeps everything cleaner and cooler.

Hi .. just got my lj78 complete new overhauled , egr pipes removed and all intake cleaned and new turbo ... i didnt remove the throttle plates yet ... i went on a short test drive ... problem now is when i shift into D . Step on some gas , engine jist dies . ??? Any suggestions ... thanks

 

[hoc4197]

Now , both throttel plates are removed , all electrical to all vacume limes unpluged , engine starts fine , but when i shift into gear engine dies out . Also when transmission is in park and engine is running , it idles and sometimes engine have a sudden rev.up on and back to idle .. any suggestions ...thanks

 

[Dprio34]

@hoc4197 , You said you, unplugged all vacuum lines. You will want at least 1 vacuum line running from the Intake Manifold to the Injection Pump. That could be your problem. Not sure exactly what engine you have, but if it has the mechanical Injection Pump, I'm pretty sure that could be your problem. Also if you have the earlier engine, you'll want to put a "tee" in that very same vacuum line if you want your Boost lights on your RPM gauge to work.

 

[hoc4197]

Hi , dprio34 , my injestion has no vacuum , i saw another unit that airhead nut post , only vac line from alternator goes to the vsv 4wd . I was wondering what my sensors are at fault or something . Need maybe to plug in the diagones and see what is going on ... the units that arrive here in the philuppines and jdm converted wires . This unit was running well ..until it was overhauled due to timing belt issues . Engine runs great , but when i shift ..it dies ... i attached the before and after at shut.off valve . Thanks

 

[hoc4197]

And also will check boost sensor . My dash does not light up , no turbo green light ....

 

[Dprio34]

@hoc4197 , right above your EGR Blanking Plate there is an Open Line On the Intake Manifold. That is what I was referring to. On my engine that connects to the Boost Sending Units to the Green Light/Red Light on the RPM Gauge and Boost Compensator for the Injection Pump. I would look at your injection Pump for an input, boost sensors, or cap that. ( Im not 100% sure if the 2L-TE has a boost compensator on the IP, I cannot see it on your pic, it may go through the ECU). But leaving it open, can’t be any good. I'm sure the Green Boost light is missing its input if it is not illuminating.

 

[hoc4197]

Yes was planing to get or borrow a boost sensor . Than from there i can narrow down to what is causing this ... i will update on monday . I will also borrow a ecu - just to test what is happening . Maybe its just the boost sensor .
The green and red light on my dash is also dead .

 

[hoc4197]

Yes i will look again on the injection pump . Amd picture to u on monday . I am not at my garage . Thanks ....

 

[hoc4197]

My boost is connected . Some of these are old pictires before i overhauled the engine . I also had my rewiring redone and repaired the temp sensor , my auto glow plug worked again . I was looking for a replacement (green temp sensor) , after i repaired my ecu temp sensor ..all these problems came up one at a time ... actually tgis morning i tried again , it fired right up , but now whwn i leave it on warm up , i now notice the rpm goes up 200 rpm and sudden droo backto about 800 rpm , this kept going on for 32 mins . maybe i also need to get a new ecu temp sensor ...

 

[hoc4197]

Wring send the rear bumper pictures ..

 

[hoc4197]

Wring send the rear bumper pictures ..

Wrong send , rear bumper pictures

 

[Dprio34]

@hoc4197 , Please don’t take this the wrong way, but you may want to start your own Build Thread, and put exactly what year vehicle and spec engine you have on your signature line of your profile. That way people can help you out easier to solve any problems you are having. Some of these pics and topics are starting to stray from the theme of the original thread of, EGR Delete.

I’m pretty sure as soon as you re-hook that vacuum line back up to your intake manifold, you will Solve your Boost Lights issue.

 

[hoc4197]

Thanks for the suggestion ... i was looking for another ecu to test . Hard to find . But i am sure the injection pump that i have is a bit different . It has no vac lines but 2 plugs at the side and one on top for the spill sensor .

 

[hoc4197]

Here is the injection pump