So I finished installing all new flexible SS braided brake lines. So far so good with custom built lines, my new flare and flare nut.
I did fine one more flare nut, at RF wheel, which flare nut was slightly over torqued. This mushroomed out the flare nut inner tip enough to cause to hang-up in female fitting. Luckily it was not cracked or out of round like the upper RH rear. So I used some emery cloth to work "mushroom" down a bit, which aids so it doesn't hang-up while trying to install into female fitting. I made sure each flare and nut was in good condition and clean. I also cleaned and oiled (brake fluid) the threads, pipe passing through flare nut and tip of flares. Then fitting and threading together by hand until sung, only using wrenches to torqued down.
Can't say same for StopTech Flexible SS braided brake lines. These lines had some features that at first appeared nice, but aren't:
LEAK
StopTech 4 piece SS brake lines set leak.
1) The female fitting end spins & swivels even after fits/locks snugly into our factory fitting hanger. This makes install easy as female end is held in place just like factory, while only a 10mm wrench is need to tight the flare nut. The SS line spins freely with the female end until flare nut is torqued. This allow for easy setting brake line in a relaxed state to as to/from the caliber connection. The inner tip that butts to the hard line flare to make the seal, is coated with something that I assume is to aid in sealing to the flare.
A) Here's the bad, why I feel them difficult to install without leaking.
The female not being fixed, makes alignment to hard line flare varring as they butt due to swivelling within the fitting. If that aligment isn't dead-on as they butt together they leak. The coating they add to the tip (inner male end of flare inside fitting) is cut once seated. For this reason, if loosen again they will not seal a second time. Loosen also leaves this now free up coating in the brake line, as solid containment now headed to caliper.
Out of the four Stoptech brake lines, I had one leaking on first install. I spend hours inspecting, cleaning, resetting, photographing giving it my best, but could not stop the leak. Even had StopTech support on the phone. They advised returning for new set, that sometimes lines during manufacture just don't get a good flare tip.
One line that was not leaking, I need to loosen an spin 180 degrees to get line to relax it upto caliper. My fault for torquing flare nut before attaching banjo to caliper in a relaxed state. Once I loosen that line, it started leaking. I spend hours on it cleaning, inspecting photographing reworking. Gave it my best, but now this was number two leak I could not stop.
The package includes new union bolt with seals. Union bolt has a hole for brake fluid to travel through, that is much larger that factory? They also give very stout bleeder caps, very nice. Lines come coated with a clear plastic and with boots at ends. Boots, although look good may end-up holding moisture.
I decided not to take up Stoptech on there offer to replace the set. I drove over to Slee Off Road and bought there full 6 piece set.
Slee Off Road flexible SS braided brake lines. No leaks on first try, even after loosening and retorquing a flare nut.
1) Removing the Stoptech and installing just the four out the six lines Slee gives in their Kit, took two hours. No leaks first time.
I also had one line I didn't get set in a relaxed position. So I needed to loosen flare nut after torquing and reset, no leaks no problems. It happen to be the same spot as I had to reset the Stoptech line that did leak after reseting.
A) The SS brake lines Slee sells is all 6 of flexible lines needed to do complet job. The flare tip is a solid connection to female fitting. So alignment is the same every time on the hard pipe flare. They don't lock into factory hanger, but spin freely with them. This means a second wrench (17mm) is need to hold the female as flare nut (male end) is torqued. But since not equipped with with a keep nut, it can be spun 360 degrees to set line in relaxed position.
They also supply a washer that must be used between 17mm nut and factory hanger. They give us a new retaining clip that is very beefy. They also give new seals (washers) for union bolt of banjo to caliper connection. Also sach line is tag for location.
Notes:
The front calipers not only have secure horns but a hole for pins that only come on factory brake lines banjos only.
Neither set's banjo fit into caliper holder horns. Nore do either have the retaining pin in front banjo that caliper has a receptor hole for locking position in.
The factory front lines also have a fixed securing point that secruce to knuckle. The factory's will not allow for line movement between knuckle and caliper. This keeps moment of front suspension form putting any pressure or allowing any moment on caliper to banjo connection. While it also allows the upper half of line to constantly flexing between where it connect into holder on frame to the securing point on knuckle.

I do not like that both aftermarket sets allow brake line to freely slide within the knuckle securing point. It allows for easy install to get a relaxed line, and no doubt makes manufacture simpler, as they don't need to fix angle to banjo. But factory are so much more secure on caliper to begin with, and the fixed secure point will keep any pressure from up and down movement of suppenssion from ever getting to banjo connection. For this reason one must pay special attention during each 5K PM that union bolt is torqued to spec of 22ft-lbf IMHO.
The StopTech knuckle securing point is made of metal with a rubber cushion/slip the line passes through. The factory nut holding it on can be torqued to factory spec of 21ft-lbf.
The Slee's knuckle securing point is made of plastic, and factory bolt CAN NOT torqued to factory spec, so a thread seal must be used.
I will be speaking to Slee:
IMO: Both need to use a securing point that is fixed or lockable for safety at knuckle IMHO. The factory torque of 22ft-lbf should hold the banjo to caliper securely. BUT, the factory had it's reasons to use three different method of aligning, fixing and keeping movement of suspension from putting any pressure on banjo. These aftermarkets need at least the one they can do, which is securing the line so it does can not move through knuckle securing point.